WF-9855 never goes to 13.2V

[ronderful]

After a great deal of research i have l concluded. That no one sells a "converter" that will maintain a set of lifeline AGM batteries to manufacturers specifications. A disconnect and separate charger is what I will be using in the future.

Sent from my VS986 using Airstream Forums mobile app

[franklyfrank]

Originally Posted by rlphillips00

After installing a replacement converter in my 2016 23FB Intl Serenity, I've learned from Parallax that the battery will not charge at 13.6VDC if it is in Store mode when connected to 120VAC. If you disconnect the converter from 120VAC, and don't take the battery out of Store mode, you should not be able to read any VDC at the wall readout. Now I keep the converter from burning out itself and the batteries from over charging by using a solar panel (Airstream Life), or turning on the converter for only an hour or so. If you think of your AS batteries like a car battery, you need to charge it only once in awhile to keep a battery bank good (12.6VDC). It's when you plan on boon docking that a constant charge to batteries is required if you're going to use that VDC energy.

Question, why did you need a new converter on 2016 AS ?

[Silvr_Bullet]

People seem to be overly concerned that a cabin monoxide detector is going to drain/ kill the house battery that normally can power the detector for at least six months. That’s a little 9volt battery??

[Al and Missy]

The detector that is connected to the battery is the propane detector, not the CO.

Al

[Silvr_Bullet]

Ok! So how much does that drain from battery, thanks for correcting my mistake.

[Silvr_Bullet]

Here is power requirement for Propane Detector ( others may differ ) this from my operating manual 2017 / 16’ Sport

[Silvr_Bullet]

The draw on the propane detector on my trailer is 75 mAh

[rlphillips00]

Originally Posted by franklyfrank

Question, why did you need a new converter on 2016 AS ?

I found there was no battery charging occurring when connected to shore power. And the converter wasn't putting out the 13.6VDC when batteries were in store mode. Fortunately, the converter was under warranty! Unfortunately, I didn't find out this malfunctioning converter was the cause until after I completely discharged the original Interstates.

The cause of the converter's malfunction is now a closely guarded secret by Parallax, but something was rattling around in the converter box when I pulled it.

[Al and Missy]

Originally Posted by Silvr_Bullet

The draw on the propane detector on my trailer is 75 mAh

I think it is 75 mA. The one in my Safari 25 was more. 75 mA for 24 hours is 1.8 Ah. If you have a single group 24 at about 75 Ah and you only want to discharge it to 50%, that is about 3 weeks.

Al

[gypsydad]

Originally Posted by SteveSueMac

Sorry for the hijack but gypsydad - help me understand how your device works? It looks like the negatives are both still connected from the short jumper cable whether or not you engage the disconnect. But I'm no electrician. I've been wanting to add a manual disconnect like this - and yours looks like a neat fit for the battery box - I just don't understand it - go slow in your explanation. [emoji3]

The earlier reply is correct; I have all my negative wires from the AS attached to the knife switch which has the a threaded contact pole separated from the battery connect terminal clamp by a solid nylon base. When you throw the copper switch, it completes the circuit. Some folks also add some insulating tape around the battery box and cover to insure no arcing, but I have not had any problems with this. I think the distance in separation is sufficient.

[gypsydad]

Originally Posted by SteveSueMac

I'm lost. Maybe time for a new thread. It seems the negative to the trailer is on the battery on the top of the picture (curbside based on the angle of the a-frame and location of lid). So even though the disconnect is open - isn't there still at least one battery connected to the trailer? Sorry I'm so dense - really not getting it....

Let me know if this looks better? This is with switch engaged. All negative wires are connected to the terminal on the knife switch. What is deceiving in the picture is it sets a little above the negative battery to battery connection cable, but notice the other negative wires are all connected to the isolated pole of the knife switch. When open no connectivity to the AS.

[gypsydad]

Originally Posted by dzwiss

It is not a good idea to run a 4 stage charger with a "desulfation" mode if you are using AGM batteries unless you can deactivate the desulfation cycle.

Not sure about that...Boondocker site says:
"Great for standard flooded wet cell or AGM batteries!"

[SteveSueMac]

Originally Posted by gypsydad

Let me know if this looks better? This is with switch engaged. All negative wires are connected to the terminal on the knife switch. What is deceiving in the picture is it sets a little above the negative battery to battery connection cable, but notice the other negative wires are all connected to the isolated pole of the knife switch. When open no connectivity to the AS.

Yes perfect, thanks. I was guessing it's something like this - correct?

https://www.wirthco.com/20148.html

[dzwiss]

Originally Posted by gypsydad

Not sure about that...Boondocker site says:
"Great for standard flooded wet cell or AGM batteries!"

My solar controller had a desulfation cycle that would boost the voltage to 15.2 volts monthly, and I was told not to use it on AGM batteries. Perhaps this converter/charger uses a different technology. I would go with the manufactures recommendation.