Torque Wrench Recommendations

[vintagemotor]

I have been a mechanic all of my life and have several Snap-On torque wrenches, click and digital. The preceding posters are correct, all you need is "A" torque wrench, "you are not rebuilding aluminum block engines with extremely small tolerances", all you are doing is making sure that your lug nuts are not too tight, using the cheaper torque wrenches that are properly maintained (unsprung when not in use) is completely fine.

Snap-On torque wrench $300-$1500, HB torque wrench $20.

The importance of using a torque wrench is to achieve the designed tightness of the fastener as directed by the manufacturer. It's use is mainly to prevent over tightening, all of us are guilty of this at least once in our lives.

Happy Airstreaming!

[vintagemotor]

Originally Posted by FCStreamer

I just faced the same question, but I needed 300 lbs for the bolts on my hitch.

After seeing different models, I decided to get a Ryobi impact wrench. I already own several Ryobi tools so I didn’t need to but the batteries. Cost me $100.

I saw “torque limiting” extensions, which is what I plan to use for changing my wheels when the time comes.

I have used these devices over the years and they do not work the same, okay for a tire shop, but not recommended for regular use (they require an air impact driver be used, so no go on the highway.

[DKB_SATX]

Originally Posted by Mollysdad

I've never seen a torque wrench used to tighten anything over my life, unless you're rebuilding an engine.
I've also never had a wheel fall off. You'd have a hard time convincing me that the air gun at "Joe's Tire Palace" is calibrated to 100 ft/pounds.
If you think about torque, let's say the bolt on the hitch recommends 300 ft/pounds. That's equivalent to a force of 100# with a lever arm of 3'. So take your Harbor Freight breaker bar and apply that force using a section of pipe so your lever is 3' long. Push down on your bathroom scale so you know what 100# feels like.
I know this forum often goes off into the weeds with minutia, but if the specs call for 300 ft/pounds and you apply 320 ft/pounds, the hitch is not going to explode!
How do you think the hitch designer decided 300 ft/pounds was correct? He guessed. Or he spec'd the bolts and thought that torque would be safe.

As a mechanic once told me, "Just tighten it up until it strips, then back it off half a turn."

I've seen wheels fall off. Happily none were MINE.

At 300 ft-lb on this application, your general advice is fine. "in the ballpark" is likely good enough. I try to avoid Joe's Tire Shop. I'm not even all that trusting of the "torque stick" things that good tire shops use, but I figure if a corporate lawyer lets them get away with that it must at least be good enough to palm liability off on the torque-stick manufacturer.

[rmkrum]

All the wholesale warehouse tire shpops that I go to use a calibrated HAND-operated torque wrench--the kind that clicks when it hits full torque. The manager himself goes around the car to torque ALL the lug nuts as a safety check before he signs off on the car. They put the nuts on with a cross wrench, not power tools. Only time I see them use the 'rattle wrench' is to take the wheels off.

My local Sam's Club even has an electronic torque wrench calibration rig that they use to set the wrench correctly. I need to ask them if I can check my personal torque wrench on their calibration system one of these days...

Another important thought. I have both a 150 and a 250 ft-pound torque wrench. I've found that calibration is not all that good in the middle of the range, and since I need to hit about 125 on lug nuts, and 250 on hitch parts, two wrenches just made more sense to me. Besides, the 250 ft-pound one weighs more than what I want to routinely haul around most days. That sucker is a heavy beast...

[Wayne&Sam]

Originally Posted by rmkrum

I've found that calibration is not all that good in the middle of the range,

Huh. Usually you expect the most accurate reading in the middle i=of the range of any device, getting further off at the high and low limits.

Also, for lug nuts I'll be the tolerance is not that fine. + or - 5 or 10 ft/lb probably doesn't matter.

[rmkrum]

Two word explanation: Harbor Freight.....

[Mollysdad]

Originally Posted by rmkrum

Two word explanation: Harbor Freight.....

You're correct, of course.
However for some of us a $20 HF torque wrench in the tool chest is better than the $500 Snap-On I didn't buy.

[rmkrum]

Originally Posted by Mollysdad

You're correct, of course.
However for some of us a $20 HF torque wrench in the tool chest is better than the $500 Snap-On I didn't buy.

Yup. And for occasional use, a Harbor Freight tool is 'just fine'. We're really NOT building/maintaining aircraft here, otherwise the wrench would be $1500 bucks and have a current unexpired calibration sticker on it before we even pick it up....whole different world.

[ROBERT CROSS]

I calibrate all the cordless tools myself...👍

Bob
🇱🇷

[WhereStream]

After getting our Airstream and then reading every word Rich Luhr ever wrote, I bought a torque wrench (a Home Depot or Lowe's house brand).

Have diligently checked the torque before heading out on each and every trip.

But I've begun to wonder ... what if the lug nuts were cranked on with way too much twist by some guy having a bad day at Jackson Center?

The torque wrench wouldn't let me know. It would click, as always, when I hit 110 pounds, even though the nuts were torqued at 180 pounds, or some other mad number.

So, do people first loosen the lug nuts before torquing, just to be sure?

[SteveSueMac]

Originally Posted by WhereStream

After getting our Airstream and then reading every word Rich Luhr ever wrote, I bought a torque wrench (a Home Depot or Lowe's house brand).



Have diligently checked the torque before heading out on each and every trip.



But I've begun to wonder ... what if the lug nuts were cranked on with way too much twist by some guy having a bad day at Jackson Center?



The torque wrench wouldn't let me know. It would click, as always, when I hit 110 pounds, even though the nuts were torqued at 180 pounds, or some other mad number.



So, do people first loosen the lug nuts before torquing, just to be sure?

Great question!

I had my GYMs removed soon after buying the trailer new. I watched them install each tire and use a torque wrench to tighten to 110 - then a different tech came out and checked each lug nut with a second torque wrench. Seeing them put on I know they weren't over tightened. Short of that, loosening just below the threshold and retightening is a great idea in my opinion.

[ITSNO60]

Originally Posted by WhereStream

After getting our Airstream and then reading every word Rich Luhr ever wrote, I bought a torque wrench (a Home Depot or Lowe's house brand).

Have diligently checked the torque before heading out on each and every trip.

But I've begun to wonder ... what if the lug nuts were cranked on with way too much twist by some guy having a bad day at Jackson Center?

The torque wrench wouldn't let me know. It would click, as always, when I hit 110 pounds, even though the nuts were torqued at 180 pounds, or some other mad number.

So, do people first loosen the lug nuts before torquing, just to be sure?

When I am not sure I increase the torque on my wrench in 5 or 10 lb increments, if it was to spec you will get a tiny bit of movement on the first try. Trouble with over-tightening is the studs can get stretched, torque is meaningless after that happens. I am pretty careful to police anyone working on my wheels to make sure they don't over tighten, had it happen once still. I have an old Craftsman digital torque wrench that lives in my truck. I should get it calibrated one of these days.

[Tim A.]

Originally Posted by WhereStream

So, do people first loosen the lug nuts before torquing, just to be sure?

Yes. That is, on our cars. Our Airstream wheels I demount, take to the tire store, and remount myself, using a torque wrench. Quite good torque wrenches are available at fairly low cost so having one and using it is just a little bit of additional insurance for me.

Tim

[DreamStreamr]

I'm using the Craftsman 1/2" drive torque wrench I bought in 1970, the only one I've had. It's easy to use, glad to have it for my Equal-I-Zer hitch socket and bracket bolts and for wheels. Like Tim A, I demount wheels and take them to tire store, remount and torque them myself. Learned this week calibration procedure so will be checking my torque wrench's accuracy soon.

[AL’ UM- MONEY]

On a recent trip out west I lost a sendle and Michelin on six lanes of heavy traffic. Checked the wheels at each stop. I have purchased a torque wrench and intend to keep closer check on lugs. It looked like several nuts stripped some threads out maybe overtighted or to loose. Because they were new wheels my owners manual doesn’t apply. What torque is recommended.

[Mollysdad]

Originally Posted by WhereStream

So, do people first loosen the lug nuts before torquing, just to be sure?

That's the plan.
Loosten the nut, then re-torque. Torque wrenches only work while tightening from below the specified torque. "Righty-tighty".

Wouldn't that be a great invention though? A torque monitor that reads the torque that's already applied!

[ROBERT CROSS]

Originally Posted by Mollysdad

That's the plan.
Loosten the nut, then re-torque. Torque wrenches only work while tightening from below the specified torque. "Righty-tighty".

If you must......on a cold wheel & tire. Never loosen & re-torque hot.

Bob
🇱🇷

[DKB_SATX]

Originally Posted by GAT

On a recent trip out west I lost a sendle and Michelin on six lanes of heavy traffic. Checked the wheels at each stop. I have purchased a torque wrench and intend to keep closer check on lugs. It looked like several nuts stripped some threads out maybe overtighted or to loose. Because they were new wheels my owners manual doesn’t apply. What torque is recommended.

Did you get new, correct lug nuts when you got the Sendel wheels? They may not have the same type of seats that the original wheels did, which can lead to things not staying tight when they should if you re-used the previous nuts.

[AL’ UM- MONEY]

I purchased lug nuts with the wheels so I assume everything was correct. I installed them myself with a regular tire tool. Should have torqued them. Was a costly mistake. Lost the wheel, new tire serious damage to the wheel well and side of the AS. Lost three days to travel replacing parts etc. The main thing though no one was hurt or damage to other vehicles. I wish the lessons I learn didn’t cost so much.One stud sheared off and the rest looked like eather left behind thread or perhaps metal from the wheel as it left at 60 mph.

[ALUMINUMINUM]

The Snap-On clicker stays at home, unwound, to tighten rods and mains… and such machine-work.


The Thorsen beam rides in the road-box in case I ever check my lug-nuts.


The specifically marked for my weight, 30” pipe slips over a ½” breaker-bar to tighten VW-Porsche flywheel gland-nuts, or loosen anything.


The 24” pipe wrench gets various hitch ball nuts plenty tight enough with both feet against the bumper.


There are dozens of good ol' USA beam torque wrenches on ebay for twenty bucks which are perfect for lug-nuts.


How did this thread not derail to stirring the anti-antisieze crowd up onto their hind legs… I don't know...