Sigh, we are not having good luck with our new Airstream

[dcasr]

Originally Posted by Isuzusweet

We have all been there, and can commiserate with you. Mistakes happen to the best of us; learn, and move on. Cheers Sidekick Tony

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I visited with a Motorhomer at Stone Mountain Park (GA) who had left his curbside awning out and overnight weather had overweighted it and bent the rollup tube as well as the arms. It was a sad sight.

At Escanaba I had our curbside awning out with tie downs on bungee cords. A breeze came up off the lake and I immediately unhooked the tie downs and started to put up the awning. Before I could fully release the arms and roll it up a hard wind hit me, caught the fabric and took it skyward. What a sail!! I had to decide immediately whether to let it go or hang on for dear life. I hung onto the long roller and it picked up my 200 lbs and I didn't know what to do but hang on. The gust passed on, I got my feet back on the ground, and started to roll up the awning, but I had aluminum arm angles that were bent straight and attachment points pulled loose from the coach. All in just 30 seconds or less. I quickly spoke with Zip Dee by phone, they shipped me the parts express, and I repaired it while the Escanaba International was still going.

If I had let the awning go it would have probably cost me a couple of thousand dollars, but hanging on COULD have cost this 70++ serious injury. I now am very careful about when I put the awning out and when I roll it up. I am too old to go through that twice.

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[GM Airstream]

Originally Posted by YippieKiYa

One of the best things about this forum is that we can all learn from the mistakes of others, and we've all done stuff like that where we just plain didn't know. Remember the old days before the internet when you had to figure out on your own why the people in the next campsite were laughing at you?

What do you mean 'Remember the old days'....

you haven't been at a campground where some newbie pulls in and put his slideouts.. out... and then days later ... stuck 'n trying to..put'n it back in.. becomes entertainment for the rest of us... and what adds to the entertainment is when bystanders offer to help... Ya dealers must be having field days making money off of newbies that are finding out about what the salesman glittered...

[GM Airstream]

I have found ... from others... that the new airstreams are not free from problems. One reasion that the older units are just as desireable. If you have to fix 'em .. might as well start out with a oldie.. and improve it past new... and save the bux.

Can't imagine why airstreams' mothership engineers don't keep up with the new technology. They seem to be stuck in the dark ages. i.e battery charger/inverters.

Most new rV's not only have 4 stage chargers but also combind the unit with a inverter that also provides 120 v AC when on bat power... yet AS still has its old 30 amp system that overcharges bats and you have to bring along a gen set to get 120 vac.

Batteries are going to lith bats... but AS is still stuck on lead acid ones...

This is just typical stuff... that they do' not seem to be leaders on... yet their users and owners are screaming about ... why not. I know the wheel and tire issue was one that took them .. how long ... to get with the program...

about the only thing that they have been going up on is the price...

[YippieKiYa]

Originally Posted by GM Airstream

What do you mean 'Remember the old days'....



you haven't been at a campground where some newbie pulls in and put his slideouts.. out... and then days later ... stuck 'n trying to..put'n it back in.. becomes entertainment for the rest of us... and what adds to the entertainment is when bystanders offer to help... Ya dealers must be having field days making money off of newbies that are finding out about what the salesman glittered...

So true! But nowadays, you can go inside, watch a YouTube video to figure it out, and go back acting like nothing happened. Or, keep cursing and shoving and be entertainment for the rest of us.

[Bobbo]

Originally Posted by guskmg

Hint: Before you activate the awning always momentarily press the control to close first. That resets the computer in case there was an un-noticed power interruption.
guskmg

Is this the "control" you are referring to? It is the only control I've got.

[rmkrum]

Ah, the "Solid State" awning deployment tool. Ain't technology grand?

Same one I use every time...

[Mattirs]

Originally Posted by greenflag

Just a hint. Do not use your stabilizing jacks as levelers for that last little bit. The shell will actually flex a little making the door hard to latch. Ask me how I learned this.
Welcome to Airstream life and the Forums

Or be sure that the trailer is disconnected from the truck before lowering the stabilizers. Could not figure out why the door would not close, the one and only time I did that.

[J-K Georgia]

Originally Posted by PaulnGina

Yup..... the upper arms are not where they should be.

I don't remember the "mode" that they call it, but the only time the upper arms are to be in that position is when the awning is only partially deployed.

Sorry for your troubles. Unfortunately, I also learn best by doing.

I believe that is known as the caravan position, or something like that.

[J-K Georgia]

I bent the aft arm while "keeping an eye on it" during a light rain.

Zip dee responded quickly and sent a replacement to the campground.

I had to leave before it got there so I removed the bent arm and zip tied the awning to the trailer for a short trip.

A little more paranoid about rain and the awning now.

[DavidsonOverlander]

The Zip Dee awning on our '74 Sovereign has three grommets installed in the fabric, next to the roller when the awning is fully extended. This allows any water that might pool to drain off the awning. I still tilt the awning to the front or back if it's raining, but those grommet holes seem to be good insurance. I'm not sure if they were owner installed or factory, but in another thread someone else mentioned that their awning had them too.

[Fred L]

Installing a few grommets may be just what is needed as back-up to avoid rain pooling issues, in addition to setting up with the gravity run off and should be quite simple to do.
Thanks for your post Bobo. I sense that I too could have made that same mistake had we experienced a rainy day since sitting under an awning would be just about perfect....

There was mention of a video for awning use. Is that a ZipDee video or general You Tube. Will take a look to see what I can find.

[Bobbo]

I have heard back from Zip Dee. Here is their response. (I have ordered 2 of the replacement arms for $41 each. Now I just have to get the dealer to re-install the awning.)

Originally Posted by Zip Dee

Hi Robert,
Unfortunately that is not a warranty issue because the arms will not bend like that from normal use. One of three things usually cause arms to bend like that:
1. Improper set up. Many people have been showed incorrectly to set the rafter claws on the snap stud, this is a sure fire way to bend your main arms. Here is a video on proper set up of a Zip Dee patio awning.

2. Exposure to wind. An awning acts like a big sail if caught out in the wind. A good rule of thumb; if you are wondering weather or not to roll up the awning, always do it.
3. Exposure to rain. Rain water gathers quickly on the fabric and since it's water resistant the water pools on top of it adding an extra 8lbs/gallon.
You may want to check to see if your roller tube is bowed at all while you have it off the vehicle. The part number for the arms you need is 71300F/R. They are $41 a piece. We also make a stainless version of them that are a little more robust part number 21300F/R that are $89 a piece.

-The Zip Dee Team

96 Crossen Ave
Elk Grove Village, Il 60007

800-338-2378
www.AwningsByZipDee.com

[GM Airstream]

Years ago on one of my other A/S I opted to use the carefree awning ... after the zip dee... found that the carefree was much simpler and much stronger both in the operation and strength.

I wanted to replace the zip dee on my current one with a new carefree.. but found that they no longer bent the arms to configure to the AS hull... darn it... and of course AS is in bed with zip dee... so you get the lightweight one that has known problems...

As to the zip dee.. we found that they claim that you should use silicon lube to keep it working... ahhhh.. we found that a better lube is the anti seze with nickle made for high temp spark plug lube... from permtex... use a little.. only on the areas that are inside the tube... around the ratchet areas too...

The zip dee people say.. atttt it will attract dirt... but, so far its been working great... and smooth... and if it does get dirty.. easy to clean off... but we have found that it goes into the pours of the metal and provides nice lubercant...

[twbucksr]

Just researched the Permatex Anti-Seize products at their website....

https://www.permatex.com/product-cat...ts-anti-seize/

I’m curious why you would use the Nickel version in lieu of the Aluminum version of the product.

[ROBERT CROSS]

WD40 Dry Lube.






“Time will bring to light whatever is hidden; it will cover up and conceal what is now shining in splendor. “
Horace


Bob

[GM Airstream]

Originally Posted by twbucksr

Just researched the Permatex Anti-Seize products at their website....

https://www.permatex.com/product-cat...ts-anti-seize/

I’m curious why you would use the Nickel version in lieu of the Aluminum version of the product.

I used the nickle version because it doesn't have aluminum... similar metals will

cause galling... The nickle permatex anti-seize... also has a higher temp rating.. i.e it won't run a quick.. but still has the ability to get into tight spaces.. and not lock up or age like the alum will... and its a high pressure lubercant.. (high pressure basically is extream pressure friction function)

It is used for spark plugs that go into alu heads... and keeps you from locking up and removing the threads when you take them out... has a temp rating of 1200 deg... as well as anti-seize... because it has other item in it that are compatable with alu... and steel

... and I already have it for the car (grin)

once applied.. you can wipe off the excess.. and it still seems to be their...embeded into the metal... as it also displaces moisture from what I have seen...

[ROBERT CROSS]

...........snip..."It is used for spark plugs that go into alu heads... and keeps you from locking up and removing the threads when you take them out... has a temp rating of 1200 deg... as well as anti-seize... because it has other item in it that are compatable with alu... and steel."


It may be used, but maybe it shouldn't.


from NGK
"NGK tech support has received a number of tech calls from installers who have over-tightened spark plugs because of the use of anti-seize. Anti-seize compound can act as a lubricant altering torque values up to 20 percent, increasing the risk of spark plug thread breakage.
NGK spark plugs are installed at the factory dry, without the use of anti-seize."

Plus...your just adding a layer of insulation..not helping heat dissipation.
Clean dry threads.(heads & plugs) have worked for me, 50 yrs in the business, but what do I know?

Bob

[GM Airstream]

It may be used, but maybe it shouldn't.


from NGK
"NGK tech support has received a number of tech calls from installers who have over-tightened spark plugs because of the use of anti-seize. Anti-seize compound can act as a lubricant altering torque values up to 20 percent, increasing the risk of spark plug thread breakage.
NGK spark plugs are installed at the factory dry, without the use of anti-seize."

Plus...your just adding a layer of insulation..not helping heat dissipation.
Clean dry threads.(heads & plugs) have worked for me, 50 yrs in the business, but what do I know?

Bob..

Most of the NGK plugs have a dry lube already on the threads... Indeed when putting spark plugs in.. follow the manufactures directions.. they know best... but, a lot of the auto engine builders now are spec'n the nickle anti-sieze to keep you from buying new heads if the old spark plugs come out hard... I have been using it on all my engines now for years.. and so far none have had any problems... even the lawn mower... but, indeed I use the torque wrench and don't over torque the things... which indeed with this new lube you could overtorque very easy... if not careful.

I use it in place of grease on the hitch ball, sway control saddles and cups... and so far it appears that wear is not as great... nor do I get any galling or strat marks in the metals.

I recently also overhauled the hitch jack gear box... etc.. and use it instead of grease ... which we will see if it stands up to time... and not bog down in freezing weather like the grease in the unit did...

So time will tell... if its good or bad... but in the mean time I have noticed that my awning arms and all work so smooth and dont bind up like they used too..... I even put it on the threads of the hold down captions.. and the shaft that comes out of the awning roller... everything has a markable improvement over just using silicone... and no more squeeks... it all works so smoothly...

One other item that I addressed and used it on...is the door latch on the trailer... you can't believe the difference in the door closing.. now you don't have to slam or force the door closed... it works great... wiped off the excessive and no smearing on other parts...

I am sure that permtex never envisioned what it could be use for besides spark plugs... grin... oh well ... the american way... grin...