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Old 05-27-2019, 06:37 PM   #1
DWL
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Need WD hitch?

We just purchased a 25FB and looking at a weight distributing hitch for my truck (Chevy 2500HD). Does anybody have any recommendations?
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Old 05-27-2019, 06:42 PM   #2
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I have a similar setup and equalizer with 1,000 lb bars works well for me. It delivers both WD and friction-based away deterrent.
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Old 05-27-2019, 07:14 PM   #3
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Welcome Aboard....👍

We also use 1000# bars with our 2500 Burb and Hensley Arrow.
A properly set up WD/sway control hitch is always a good idea...👍

Bob
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Old 05-27-2019, 07:17 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DWL View Post
We just purchased a 25FB and looking at a weight distributing hitch for my truck (Chevy 2500HD). Does anybody have any recommendations?
......Reese duel cam
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Old 05-27-2019, 07:30 PM   #5
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Old 05-27-2019, 07:34 PM   #6
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For the below $2,000 price range, Reese Dual Cam or Equalizer are the top two. You can't go wrong with either one.
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Old 05-27-2019, 08:22 PM   #7
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we use the eaz-lift www.eaz-lift.com
it works very well for us

get the bars that are close to your max toe weight . ensure that its over , but not too much
ie 400 lb tongue go 500-600 lb WD bars

Here is a quick summary of the process.
1.To set the torsion bars you need to park on a level cement pad. You want the trailer and tow vehicle in a straight line, disconnected, with the coupler ready to drop on the ball.

2.With the tow vehicle in position, but disconnected from the trailer, use some masking tape and measure the height from the ground to the four corners of the tow vehicle. Mark the tape with these measurements, for example 22 inches, or whatever is appropriate for your tow vehicle.

3.Now that we know how the tow vehicle sits without the trailer, we want to determine the change in position when the trailer is connected.

4.Connect the trailer and do up the torsion bars. Take note of the change in height at each corner of the tow vehicle, and mark this on the masking tape.

5.You will find that the tow vehicle will have been pushed down by the weight of the trailer. For example, the rear measurement may now be 20” instead of 22” but the front may have come up to 22.5”. In this case, you need to go up to the next link in the torsion bar adjustment chain (adding tension to the torsion bars) and measure again.

6.You may find that the next link puts you into the opposite position, where the front is pushed down 1” and the back stays even at the 22” mark. This means that the torsion bars are transferring too much weight forward.

7.If this is the case you need a partial link. To do that, overlap two chain links and slide a ½” bolt through them. A ½” bolt is 1/3 of a link of adjustment so in some cases you will need 2 bolts to achieve the correct transfer.

8.When properly adjusted, the torsion bars will put enough weight on all four wheels to lower the corners of the tow vehicle from the “22 inch” starting point to between 21 ¼” and 21 ½” front and rear.

9.If you are setting up a new hitch, the torsion bars will wear in quite quickly. You will likely need to add a third of a link after 200-500 miles. You will need another third of a link after another 500- 1000 miles. You will probably feel the difference in the steering response of the tow vehicle as the new torsion bars “wear in”. It is fine to experiment by adding or subtracting 1/3 of a link at a time, and you should notice the difference in steering feel right away if it was the right or wrong change to make.

10.If you can’t get the weight to transfer to the front wheels without your torsion bars meeting the trailer frame, then you don’t have enough reward angle on your ball mount, or the torsion bars are too light, you may have a hitch receiver that is too weak, or all of the above.
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Old 05-27-2019, 08:42 PM   #8
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Blue Ox or Pro pride. I use a Reese Dual cam but think they are a little dated. I do get good results with the dual cam though. I am not going to change now but if I had to buy new I would choose between the 2 I listed.
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Old 06-06-2019, 08:26 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by wulfraat View Post
I have a similar setup and equalizer with 1,000 lb bars works well for me. It delivers both WD and friction-based away deterrent.


This ^
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Old 06-08-2019, 06:02 AM   #10
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Thanks for all of the input. We ended up buying the Equalizer hitch
Wayne
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Old 06-08-2019, 06:06 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by waninae39 View Post
we use the eaz-lift www.eaz-lift.com
it works very well for us

get the bars that are close to your max toe weight . ensure that its over , but not too much
ie 400 lb tongue go 500-600 lb WD bars

Here is a quick summary of the process.
1.To set the torsion bars you need to park on a level cement pad. You want the trailer and tow vehicle in a straight line, disconnected, with the coupler ready to drop on the ball.

2.With the tow vehicle in position, but disconnected from the trailer, use some masking tape and measure the height from the ground to the four corners of the tow vehicle. Mark the tape with these measurements, for example 22 inches, or whatever is appropriate for your tow vehicle.

3.Now that we know how the tow vehicle sits without the trailer, we want to determine the change in position when the trailer is connected.

4.Connect the trailer and do up the torsion bars. Take note of the change in height at each corner of the tow vehicle, and mark this on the masking tape.

5.You will find that the tow vehicle will have been pushed down by the weight of the trailer. For example, the rear measurement may now be 20” instead of 22” but the front may have come up to 22.5”. In this case, you need to go up to the next link in the torsion bar adjustment chain (adding tension to the torsion bars) and measure again.

6.You may find that the next link puts you into the opposite position, where the front is pushed down 1” and the back stays even at the 22” mark. This means that the torsion bars are transferring too much weight forward.

7.If this is the case you need a partial link. To do that, overlap two chain links and slide a ½” bolt through them. A ½” bolt is 1/3 of a link of adjustment so in some cases you will need 2 bolts to achieve the correct transfer.

8.When properly adjusted, the torsion bars will put enough weight on all four wheels to lower the corners of the tow vehicle from the “22 inch” starting point to between 21 ¼” and 21 ½” front and rear.

9.If you are setting up a new hitch, the torsion bars will wear in quite quickly. You will likely need to add a third of a link after 200-500 miles. You will need another third of a link after another 500- 1000 miles. You will probably feel the difference in the steering response of the tow vehicle as the new torsion bars “wear in”. It is fine to experiment by adding or subtracting 1/3 of a link at a time, and you should notice the difference in steering feel right away if it was the right or wrong change to make.

10.If you can’t get the weight to transfer to the front wheels without your torsion bars meeting the trailer frame, then you don’t have enough reward angle on your ball mount, or the torsion bars are too light, you may have a hitch receiver that is too weak, or all of the above.
With this hitch you must use separate sway bars. There is no sway control without them. The canadian dealer uses these. Very effective.
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Old 06-08-2019, 06:26 AM   #12
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Thanks for all of the input. We ended up buying the Equalizer hitch
Wayne

Nice and simple. I've used the Equalizer on a Flying Cloud 25 with an F150, and now on an International Serenity with an F250. No issues with either setup.
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Old 06-08-2019, 07:03 AM   #13
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This ^
Them!

I got mine off Craig's list for $150. {Gasp!}
It's worked flawlessly.
Semi's don't effect it, tows like a dream.
Creaks at parking lot speed.
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Old 06-08-2019, 09:07 AM   #14
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Hi

If you have any WD hitch .... take a look at the little bits and pieces associated with it. On the Equalizer there are "hair clips" on the pins that hold the bars to the hitch (and the pins). There are also the little right angle things that lock the bar to the trailer.

You may be perfect and never ever loose one of any of them. That's not a good thing to depend on. Buy a couple of spares of each and put them where you can find them. Finding that this or that has gone missing just as you are about to pull out ... no fun at all.

I'm looking for a place to buy the "hair clips" for the Equalizer pins in bulk ...

Bob
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