23fd Battery disconnect switch install

[billrector]

Originally Posted by Bobbo

The inverter is turned off and on by the switch over the kitchen sink. When it is off it draws no power.

Take an amp meter and put it on the battery cable going to your inverter. You will see it draws power even when the kitchen switch is in the OFF position. I've done this many times with a high quality Fluke meter.

[Bobbo]

Originally Posted by billrector

Take an amp meter and put it on the battery cable going to your inverter. You will see it draws power even when the kitchen switch is in the OFF position. I've done this many times with a high quality Fluke meter.

Yes. I discovered my error in that post later. I posted the retraction later in this thread, and installed a disconnect switch on the inverter power cable.

Originally Posted by Bobbo

I just went and put a clamp on current meter on the wire to the inverter. I didn't think the inverter pulled any power while it was turned off, but it registered a little less than 1/2 amp. That means the inverter is pulling about 12 amps/day, or 80+ amps per week.

Originally Posted by Bobbo

This is for the OP. I am the guy who worked with you at the very front of this thread. I liked what you did very much. As a matter of fact, I liked it so well that I modified it some and adopted it. What I did is:

1. Moved the power wire for the LP detector from a direct battery connection to the 12v distribution board. The disconnect switch now turns it off so it won't be a phantom draw.

2. Put a Blue Sea Disconnect Switch between the battery terminal and the inverter's hot wire so I can disconnect the inverter when I need to. I had decided not to do this because there are 3 conditions my camper stays in, in storage and plugged in charging, camping with power charging, and boondocking where I need the inverter.

However, I am taking my trailer to the dealer for an air conditioner problem and he will have it a couple of weeks, so I decided I needed the disconnect. (I LOVED your Lexan mounting board so I copied it.)

[Sol_Elf]

Originally Posted by Bobbo

Here is a photo of my disconnect switch to the inverter. The cable going from the switch to the battery positive terminal was bought from the above website and delivered ready to attach.

With your pictured setup the LP Detector is always on?

Thanks

[Bobbo]

Originally Posted by Sol_Elf

With your pictured setup the LP Detector is always on?

Thanks

Well, it would have been if the picture was the "whole picture" if you will pardon the pun. In addition to what you see here, I also ran a wire from the fuse block to the back of the propane detector. I disconnected the propane detector from its original hot wire and connected it, instead, to the wire I ran from the fuse block. That way, the propane detector is off when I disconnect the battery.

[jftompkins]

Originally Posted by pfcardwell

I like to move the propane detector hot wire to the 12v distribution board
but not sure where the wire is or the 12v distribution board.
The circuit breaker and fuse box is easly accessible under fridge but where is the 12v distribution board on the 23FB

My cheap way - decided to put a simple toggle switch on the propane detector itself (mounted inside the closet near detector) to switch off when in storage; and turn it on when in use. (AND - procedure wise when in storage; disconnect propane hoses when switch his off for safety...). This helped out my 5W solar maintainer mounted on the propane cover lid when in storage along with switch to Group 27 AGM...to mitigate the voltage degradation over time when not in use....

[hoagy_007]

Originally Posted by wulfraat

Let me know if this makes sense.

Hi wulfraat,

I just replaced my 2 12 V deep cycle wet batteries in a parallel setup with 2 6 V in a series connection. This may be a simple question with a simple answer, All I need to do is connect my + connections (both house and inverter are going to a single + post on one of the 6 V not the one used for the series) to the battery disconnect. For this I'd need to order the additional wire from the batteries to the battery disconnect, this sound correct?

Thanks,
Hoagy

[rmkrum]

Yes. Get a very heavy jumper from battery positive to the disconnect switch. At least 1/0 with tinned lugs and heat shrink with adhesive inside to seal out moisture. Available on Amazon in assorted lengths, colors, and wire gauge.

[pcskier]

Well, the plot thickens. I got my battery switch and cables today, and started poking around. With the battery box in my 2014, and Group 24 batteries, the switch is an inch and a half or so higher than the lid of the box. The pic below is with the switch sitting flush on top of one of the batteries. Damn it. Time for a plan B, either a battery box expansion, or mounting elsewhere, which I am considering. Maybe inside under the dinette, though a trickier install, and harder to get to. Though it wouldn't be a huge bother to lift the cushion and get down in there to shut it off in storage, which is mainly when I'd be using the switch. I was hoping it would fit in the box though, and require a box expansion only if I get taller batteries at some point. But it's no joy even with the batteries I have.

I got the right switch, right? There isn't by chance a shorter version you guys have used?

Sitting right on top of battery:

Total height of my switch:

[Bobbo]

That is the right switch. Are you sure those aren't group 27 batteries? Group 27 batteries are taller.

How about drilling a hole in the side of the battery box and putting a rubber grommet in it. Bring the battery cables out that hole, attach them to the switch, and mount the switch to the outside of the battery box? The switch is a marine switch and is OK in the weather.

[pcskier]

Originally Posted by Bobbo

That is the right switch. Are you sure those aren't group 27 batteries? Group 27 batteries are taller.

How about drilling a hole in the side of the battery box and putting a rubber grommet in it. Bring the battery cables out that hole, attach them to the switch, and mount the switch to the outside of the battery box? The switch is a marine switch and is OK in the weather.

Hmmmm. Maybe they are group 27. I'll have to have a closer look. I'm looking at the options to mount outside. It's really tight between the batteries and the side of the box. What a hassle!

[GettinAway]

This is so frustrating. My Dad was an EE, but apparently I inherited very little of his electrical acuity. So, I’ve got questions. I recently installed the easy start on my AC. In the easy start threads it’s often mentioned that you need to turn off the inverter (at least I think that’s what was said). My recollection is that there was additional current being pulled to charge the batteries. So, now I have to admit, I’m not even sure I know how to cut off the power to the inverter. That’s problem one. (FYI, my compressor starts and runs well on a 15 amp outlet in the barn up at our farm. After a minute or two the push type breaker pops, and the AC shuts off) I’m hoping that “not charging” the batteries at the same time will not pop the breaker. So, how do I shut it off?
The second problem is related to this battery disconnect switch. We often boondock and I confess I have taken a somewhat lazy approach to it. I just run the little Honda 2000 when I see the battery meter in the bathroom get down a few bars. I’d like to be more efficient and not waste power. So I’d like to do this install.
I’ve taken my batteries in and out several times to put them on battery tenders. I do not remember two red lines coming in. Just one, with an automotive type hook up to one of the positive terminals. I know the black wire from the front Jack goes on the red terminal also. So, where are you guys finding the two separate red wires coming in? One for inverter and one for “House” (I’m assuming for everything else.)
Sorry for this lengthy post. Hopefully you all won’t get too frustrated talking to a electronic infant.
Thx
Jeff

[GettinAway]

Another question.. Someone mentioned a switch by the sink that turns off the inverter. I am pretty sure I do not have that switch in our 2011 23FB. I just have the “store” on off switch down by the door. I’m not 100% sure what that does or does not do. It wasn’t explained at our walk through. I’ve always put it in “store” mode when we aren’t using the trailer.

[pkm123]

I know this has been addressed in earlier posts on this thread, but is it possible to use a disconnect at the negative post on the batteries on my 19ft. 2007 Bambi. This would avoid me having to remove the cushions from the street side dinette and removing the fuse to the propane monitor to prevent the battery drain while in storage. That seems to be the main culprit in draining the batteries while in storage. I would also appreciate pictures of the type of switch you have used. There is very little clearance between my 12volt batteries and the lid of the AS battery box.
Thanks,
Ken

[Bobbo]

Originally Posted by pkm123

I know this has been addressed in earlier posts on this thread, but is it possible to use a disconnect at the negative post on the batteries on my 19ft. 2007 Bambi. This would avoid me having to remove the cushions from the street side dinette and removing the fuse to the propane monitor to prevent the battery drain while in storage. That seems to be the main culprit in draining the batteries while in storage. I would also appreciate pictures of the type of switch you have used. There is very little clearance between my 12volt batteries and the lid of the AS battery box.
Thanks,
Ken

This would absolutely work, but it is HIGHLY not recommended. It would also disconnect the breakaway brake, which should never be disconnected.

The following post is also by me replying to someone else, and has a picture of my disconnect switch.

I don't know where your LP detector and fuse block are on a 2007 Bambi 19', but if they are reasonably close together, you could run a new hot wire from one of the fuses to the LP detector, and disconnect the hot wire that is currently powering the LP detector. That would have the LP detector shut off with the use/store switch. That is what I did on my 2017 FC 23FB.

The inverter, even if turned off at the control panel, is a major parasitic draw. Unless you put some kind of disconnect switch on its 4g wire from the battery, it will drain down your batteries pretty badly.

[Bobbo]

Originally Posted by GettinAway

Another question.. Someone mentioned a switch by the sink that turns off the inverter. I am pretty sure I do not have that switch in our 2011 23FB. I just have the “store” on off switch down by the door. I’m not 100% sure what that does or does not do. It wasn’t explained at our walk through. I’ve always put it in “store” mode when we aren’t using the trailer.

The use/store switch SHOULD disconnect everything that draws parasitically except the inverter and the LP detector.

Originally Posted by GettinAway

where are you guys finding the two separate red wires coming in? One for inverter and one for “House” (I’m assuming for everything else.)
Sorry for this lengthy post. Hopefully you all won’t get too frustrated talking to a electronic infant.
Thx
Jeff

Here is a picture of my batteries (2017 FC 23FB). I have airbrushed in a pair of arrows. The arrow pointing to the red wire (4g, aka HUGE) going to the disconnect switch is my inverter. The other arrow pointing to a 6g (smaller) wire is the house power.

[pkm123]

Originally Posted by Bobbo

This would absolutely work, but it is HIGHLY not recommended. It would also disconnect the breakaway brake, which should never be disconnected.

The following post is also by me replying to someone else, and has a picture of my disconnect switch.

I don't know where your LP detector and fuse block are on a 2007 Bambi 19', but if they are reasonably close together, you could run a new hot wire from one of the fuses to the LP detector, and disconnect the hot wire that is currently powering the LP detector. That would have the LP detector shut off with the use/store switch. That is what I did on my 2017 FC 23FB.

The inverter, even if turned off at the control panel, is a major parasitic draw. Unless you put some kind of disconnect switch on its 4g wire from the battery, it will drain down your batteries pretty badly.

Thanks Bobbo,
I read your earlier post and did not review that post before submitting my question. My bad! My idea was a disconnect switch that you actually have to remove the knob from one post of the switch and disconnect the post. The only way to use the dc power is to reattach the cable to the battery terminal post. In other words I could not use the house power, the jack or the disconnect brake without reattaching the neg. cable. I am I wrong in my thinking? I will try and include a picture of the disconnect. It is also slightly to tall to close the lid of the battery compartment without binding it on the top of the knob when attached. The removable knob also prevents anyone from using the jack.
Ken

[pkm123]

Here is the jpeg I think!
Ken

[Bobbo]

Originally Posted by pkm123

My idea was a disconnect switch that you actually have to remove the knob from one post of the switch and disconnect the post. The only way to use the dc power is to reattach the cable to the battery terminal post. In other words I could not use the house power, the jack or the disconnect brake without reattaching the neg. cable.

I am not familiar with a switch like that. As long as you have to reactivate the system before you can use the tongue jack, I would be comfortable with that. That way, you can't even hook up if you forget to activate the 12v system.

You still may need a separate disconnect switch for the inverter, unless you put its negative wire on that same switch.

[pkm123]

Wow,
I am going to admit my ignorance here but I think I only have the AS Converter and fuse panel and not the inverter (inverts 12volt to 110volt AC?) on my 2007 Bambi. I have not installed an inverter as of yet.
I think the disconnect in the picture disconnects all power to the house. You can take that little green knob with you when you leave the trailer a slight deterrent to thieves along with a hitch lock.
Ken

[GettinAway]

Thanks for the pic Bobbo. I see you have two positive wires coming in the battery box. One from each side. AS must have changed something between 2011 and 2017. I believe I just have the one red wire coming in. You’ve only bypassed one wire, correct? That must be the one to the inverter. The other is still connected directly to the battery, that must also power the propane detector, correct? I’m assuming you’ve wired the propane detector directly to the 12v board. So, you’ve got zero drain on the batteries when in store mode, correct? I’ll see if my positive wires coming into the battery box aren’t split somewhere up the line.
Thx