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Old 09-09-2017, 11:03 AM   #57
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Did you upgrade the wires that run between them? I think what is currently there is 4 and 6. I'll have to check.
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Old 09-09-2017, 12:15 PM   #58
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Refer to post #19 in this thread. I did exactly what the photo shows.
I upgraded only one side because I happened to have a short piece of cable available. I'll probably upgrade the other positive when I get some time.
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Old 09-09-2017, 01:27 PM   #59
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ID:	294431 So this is the back of the unit that I purchased. It's a dual circuit one so, if I'm not mistaken, I'm able to simply take the main positive and attach it to #1. Then take the inverter side and attach it to #2. Then take corresponding positive "patch" cables to their original respective position on separate batteries.

Unfortunately I forgot that I would have to cut the main positive line and crimp on that ring connector.

Any thoughts before I execute?
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Old 09-09-2017, 03:10 PM   #60
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They make a connector that you add so you do not have to cut and crimp.
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Old 09-09-2017, 03:49 PM   #61
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23fd Battery disconnect switch install

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Attachment 294431 So this is the back of the unit that I purchased. It's a dual circuit one so, if I'm not mistaken, I'm able to simply take the main positive and attach it to #1. Then take the inverter side and attach it to #2. Then take corresponding positive "patch" cables to their original respective position on separate batteries.

Unfortunately I forgot that I would have to cut the main positive line and crimp on that ring connector.

Any thoughts before I execute?


For that selector I would simply place a 2/0 or 1/0 red cable to #1 terminal and connect it to a Pos terminal at the battery.

On the corresponding #1 terminal on the switch connect both your red/positive inverter cable AND your red/positive trailer red cable.

#2 terminals will not be used.

When you turn the switch to "on" both the inverter and 12v trailer bus will have power.

Here is the corresponding wiring diagram for that setup....
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Old 09-10-2017, 07:49 AM   #62
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23fd Battery disconnect switch install

This is the connector so you do not have to cut and crimp.
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Old 09-10-2017, 08:04 AM   #63
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I looked at that and appreciate you sending but my 4ga wire to the... inverter I think... has an automotive post adapter on it so in order for it to connect to my disconnect switch it would need to be cut. Out of that I can then use the patch cable with the ring connectors to the screw on terminal. I think what I'd need would be male adapter if this one is the female adapter. (PS- I've brought lingo from both the low voltage and plumbing world into this discussion...)
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Old 09-10-2017, 11:08 AM   #64
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Yes just cut the automotive clamp off and slap on a 3/8" ring terminal... drop in a little solder after you make the mechanical connection for good measure.
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Old 09-10-2017, 05:12 PM   #65
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I've got to ask too... is there a downside to keeping all the current connections as they are and simply using my #1 connections for the inverter and #2 connections for the 12 volt side? I'd love to not have to upgrade all the wiring. I'm trying to stay on a bit of a budget and have to purchase everything I change. Thanks agin for your help!
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Old 09-10-2017, 05:16 PM   #66
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I'm not quite sure I understand your question.

I think you are asking "should/can I use both #1 and #2 terminals in the switch I bought?"

The answer is that you can but if you do that then you will need 2 new short red cables - one from #1 terminal to batt positive and a second cable from #2 terminal to batt positive.

So my suggestion only requires you to add 1 new cable to the system, vs 2.
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Old 09-10-2017, 07:24 PM   #67
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Oh. I was assuming using your suggestion I would NEED to upgrade the other 6ga wires as well. To match your diagram I'd be buying a lot of wires. If I can just buy two 4 ga and simply patch the two "sides" in leaving everything else the same, I think I'm a lot better off. But I'll defer to your judgement.
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Old 09-10-2017, 08:23 PM   #68
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For a bare-bones install all you need is a single twelve inch 1/0 (or heavier guage) cable with 3/8" ring terminals to connect your battery to your cut off switch. Cost is ~ $13 shipped.

Here is an example:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072KZSY43...+ring+terminal

While you are at it, it certainly wouldn't hurt to replace the tiny 6ga wires that connect the batteries in parallel. I upgraded mine to 1/0 as well.

See attached picture.

Here you see a 12" 1/0 cable from batt POS to the disconnect switch. You will also see that I replaced the small 6ga wires that connected the batteries in parallel with red (pos->pos) and black (neg->neg) 1/0 cables to reduce the resistance between the batteries.
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Old 09-11-2017, 03:24 PM   #69
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Gotcha. So my shopping list is two, 12" 1/0 ga, red wires; one of the same in black and then the 3/8" ring terminal for the 4ga wire.

On a related note, I tracked down the 1amp fuse for the propane sensor and pulled it. Now disabled that seems to help with the draw but even overnight I can see enough draw to prove that inverter is up to something. Considering I do not (knowingly) use it, ever, is there a reason I couldn't / shouldn't pull the negative for it off the battery for now? I would like to leave the battery hooked up for the main though if possible. Thanks again for the help and patience.
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Old 09-11-2017, 05:24 PM   #70
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Now disabled that seems to help with the draw but even overnight I can see enough draw to prove that inverter is up to something.
Will be curious to see if you confirm the inverter has a phantom draw. Please update.

Meanwhile...it's been suggested that the subwoofer does also. Might be worth looking into if you haven't.
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