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Old 08-12-2017, 09:08 PM   #57
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I used 1.5" x 1.5" -- note that it is screwed onto the bottom side of the 1/2" plywood though so amount of angle sticking up is about an inch. I actually rabetted the angle into the wood so that the angle is flush with the bottom of the plywood leaving me with 1 1/8" sticking up.

Also, it's a good idea to paint the aluminum (even with clear) since aluminum rubbing on fabric over time will leave black marks.


Here are some pics of my add-ones to the twin beds.

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Old 08-13-2017, 10:56 PM   #58
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Installed my wife's new SMEV range oven. She's happy, so I'm happy!
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Old 08-13-2017, 10:58 PM   #59
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Before...Attachment 292163
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Installed my wife's new SMEV range oven. She's happy, so I'm happy!


Wow! That looks great. Where'd you buy it and how hard was the install?
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Old 08-14-2017, 12:04 AM   #60
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Wow! That looks great. Where'd you buy it and how hard was the install?


Much thanks! We bought it online from CamperVan HQ. It was $779 plus $99 shipping. It's listed as Dometic CU-434. Item arrived in three days from Riverside, CA and thankfully no damage.

My main objective was to use the original counter top...and keep the wife happy!

Install was more difficult than just a straight forward removal and replacement.

Old range removal was to remove six screws and disconnect one gas line. That's the easy part.

The original opening width and height are larger than what the new range requires. The new range is designed for the left and right sides to rest on top of the counter (like the old one).

Luckily the new stove fits perfectly just inside the original side openings. So I added 1/8" x 1" wood furring strips to allow the range to rest upon so it would appear to be flush with counter top. There were 6 screws that hold the new range in place. I screwed them through the furring strips.

I had to cut away about 3" from the back with a jig saw so that the range can be pushed back far enough to be flush with the front of the counter.
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The new range has a light in the oven and has an electronic igniter. So I ran a length of two strand 14 ga primary wire to supply the 12 volt power from my service panel and installed a 3 amp fuse.
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Before sliding range into final position, I had to carefully bend the copper gas line to the right rear to reconnect the gas line. Fittings matched perfectly. Copper line before...
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Copper line to connect...
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There was a space between the bottom of range and the cabinet. I used an aluminum flat bar stock and aluminum channel stock from Orchard Supply.

The sides needed a filler trim also. Used same material but different sizes.

Used the scrap piece of Formica (from cutting out the back) to fill in the pre-existing notches at front counter top from the original range install. Used carpenters glue to attach pieces.
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I used aluminum pieces as filler trim because we wanted the install to look as factory as possible. We also used a dark wood stain pen to blend in the countertop with any exposed areas of plywood.

Whew!It took two full days of installation and fabrication but it was all worth the improvement!

Good luck! Let me know how it goes for you! Happy travels!
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Old 08-14-2017, 05:53 AM   #61
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Wow!! Nice job, you accomplished that factory look!
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Old 08-14-2017, 09:28 AM   #62
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Wow!! Nice job, you accomplished that factory look!


Troutboy~thanks for the shout out! "A craftsman is always proud that his work is appreciated."

Happy travels!
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Old 08-14-2017, 08:13 PM   #63
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Before...Attachment 292163
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Installed my wife's new SMEV range oven. She's happy, so I'm happy!
That looks GREAT!
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Old 08-15-2017, 01:24 AM   #64
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That looks GREAT!


It was a labor of love! Definitely worth the time and fabrication dedication. Thanks for the shout out!
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Old 08-15-2017, 03:03 PM   #65
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Better not let my wife see the stove, or I will need to get some real skills fasr. Beautiful job
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Old 08-15-2017, 04:28 PM   #66
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Better not let my wife see the stove, or I will need to get some real skills fasr. Beautiful job


I hear ya! But you know, the ladies just have a way of finding things out!Thanks for the praise!
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Old 08-15-2017, 05:28 PM   #67
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I ban my wife from website, she would have ME doing a complete make over on ours
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Old 08-15-2017, 07:44 PM   #68
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Hi Piggy Bank~
Congrats on your new piglet! Nice to see you like my bed modification. We love the change because it's one less stressor that makes traveling more enjoyable. Here's what I did for each side:

Attachment 290369

Unscrewed the original platform and moved it outwards to where the mattress would be fully supported underneath.

Purchased stain grade plywood and cut a piece that would fit between original plywood and wall. Used stain grade plywood because surface is smoother and won't snag mattress. Also purchase 3/4" self adhesive foam insulation that will fit between new piece and the wall.

Fit the new piece against the wall, then place original piece in place to check for fit. Make any adjustments. Now remove original piece. Cut to length a strip of insulation that runs the full length of new plywood. Stick it to wall where the side of plywood meets the wall. Attachment 290389

I repurposed the screws taken out of original piece and used 3/4" wood screws for the rest. With new piece in place, take note where the wood frame is underneath to screw in plywood. After attaching new piece, place original piece into place and attach.

I rounded the corner at the foot of each bed for safety reasons. Since my wife usually makes the beds, she's been stabbed and splintered a few times by this corner. She also suggested sanding the exposed edges or even placing a rubber edge along that stretch.

Another suggestion is buying Aire Flow Moisture Barrier to prevent mold and moisture underneath mattresses. This is on our to-do list.

Battery storage cover lock. Attachment 290391

Refrigerator exterior access panel. Attachment 290392

Both these locks were on the shelf and purchased at Camping World.
This is what the lock looks like on the inside. Attachment 290393

It's been my pleasure helping out a fellow Airstreamer. Hope it's been helpful! Good luck customizing your little piglet!
Why would you need a lock on the refrigerator access panel?
What's in there worth stealing?
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Old 08-15-2017, 08:10 PM   #69
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Why would you need a lock on the refrigerator access panel?

What's in there worth stealing?


Thanks for asking. This is from a woman's point of view. My wife is a very forward thinking person. She asked what was inside that access panel. When I told her the refrigerator pilot light is there, wiring, sharp edges and copper tubing, she was concerned about curious young ones seeing an easy opening access door and possibly wondering what's inside. She just wanted to prevent any possible injuries. We don't stay at "adult only rv parks" and when we leave to go sight see, no one's there to watch our "AS". Airstream's are a magnet for attention. And since it's not a panel that you have to access all the time, why not put a lock on it. If we can deter any such activity, why not? Bless my wife's heart for looking out after other children just as much as she looks out for our two sons.
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Old 08-15-2017, 09:39 PM   #70
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Thanks for asking. This is from a woman's point of view. My wife is a very forward thinking person. She asked what was inside that access panel. When I told her the refrigerator pilot light is there, wiring, sharp edges and copper tubing, she was concerned about curious young ones seeing an easy opening access door and possibly wondering what's inside. She just wanted to prevent any possible injuries. We don't stay at "adult only rv parks" and when we leave to go sight see, no one's there to watch our "AS". Airstream's are a magnet for attention. And since it's not a panel that you have to access all the time, why not put a lock on it. If we can deter any such activity, why not? Bless my wife's heart for looking out after other children just as much as she looks out for our two sons.


I did the same thing I put locks on vents, water, shower, and battery box. Had them all keyed the same so I only need one key to operate them all.
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