20-footers

[OTRA15]

Bob you might to hold on that counter removal. I will post some new photos in a couple of hours, about a hidden angle clip hidden way forward, attaching the counter in addition to the other clips you can see. Also my previous guesses about access by removing the dinette were off-base for sure!

[OTRA15]

The attached photo is looking up and toward the front, after removing that angled aluminum cover at the raised floor to the right of the toilet. My plastic AF VB is in the same spot as yours I guess, just aft of the exterior shower valve box.

That small metal angle clip just above the ext. shower box is not accessible from anywhere easy IMO, although I guess you could reach up there with a stubby Phillips screwdriver and take out the screw going into the aluminum [rib?], or the one screw going up into the counter?

Removing the dinette will not be of much help here, it appears. Gonna put this project on the back burner for now.

Peter

PS -- That big black pipe is the main vent stack from the black water holding tank IMO.

[CruizinDux]

...and as I remember in that allusive (illusion) counter off thread, there was one or two that were borderline impossible to reach. I agree there needs to be some inventory.

It can't be an illusion as I remember thinking...hmmm maybe a square or torx head to keep the common Phillips strip on the first turn challenge at bay....assuming of course I could remove it first.

agreed on the ABS...BW vent. Thinking about it, the end of the cab to the right of the ABS is where I was ging to cut a vent for warm air opening....maybe it will so dual duty...warm air vent AND screw removal access port only half kidding. Thinking of CR8 maybe two in a 4" dia and also removable if needed...like to remove that screw.


I'm in no hurry....still have to get to Paso to pickup the wine club allocation and do some exploring of new to us tasting rooms


B


BTW stay tuned....http://www.airforums.com/forums/f439...m_medium=email




After we get home and maybe the garden soil is dry and warm enough to plant...then comes the TT. KISS this year. Early Girls and sweet 100's and a couple three cukes in a mound. Ran across the family favorite in Mo a few weeks ago..Tomato, onion, cuke w/mayo salad.

[OTRA15]

Originally Posted by CruizinDux

. . .
After we get home and maybe the garden soil is dry and warm enough to plant...then comes the TT. KISS this year. Early Girls and sweet 100's and a couple three cukes in a mound. Ran across the family favorite in Mo a few weeks ago..Tomato, onion, cuke w/mayo salad.

Now you're talkin' !

Have a great trip south.

Peter

[CruizinDux]

Just a FYI. http://www.airforums.com/forums/f439...ml#post2232880



Sounds like this isn't that unusual...sane feedback from the hitch pro. I thought about ordering another kit since I can order just a CS adjuster, but then again It happened in Key Largo at about 6K and made it home fine and with brakes. Sure would be nice to have a set of spare adjusters tho since it took almost 2 weeks to get this set.


b

[CruizinDux]

Originally Posted by OTRA15

The attached photo is looking up and toward the front, after removing that angled aluminum cover at the raised floor to the right of the toilet. My plastic AF VB is in the same spot as yours I guess, just aft of the exterior shower valve box.

That small metal angle clip just above the ext. shower box is not accessible from anywhere easy IMO, although I guess you could reach up there with a stubby Phillips screwdriver and take out the screw going into the aluminum [rib?], or the one screw going up into the counter?

Removing the dinette will not be of much help here, it appears. Gonna put this project on the back burner for now.

Peter

PS -- That big black pipe is the main vent stack from the black water holding tank IMO.

Ok....waiting at the hitch shop for the brake adjuster thought I'll explore under the bath vanity pending removal for the BW vac breaker ch valve repair. No shortage of those little L-brackets and certainly the counter is well secured along the angle stock under the splash edge. As peter pointed out ghat back corner will be a real bugger to reach much less back out successfully. Maybe a Dremel with a grinder tip...grind the screw head off???maybe. With so much support and screws along the splash edge, it likely is really not needed.

B

[OTRA15]

The next step here will be to figure out how they assembled the bathroom, then work backward from there. I am guessing, but imagine it went together something like this:

-- plumbing and electric all roughed in at walls
-- install shower
-- install toilet base
-- install vanity [with counter already attached?]
-- install wall forward of bath vanity
-- install dinette rear seat

Something like this, anyway . . . I have not looked carefully before writing this post. If this order of installation is more or less correct, the most sensible way to un-do things is to reverse the order.

Darryll's photos and text suggest that removing the dinette seat is a pretty minimal project, and is probably the most sensible thing to do next IMO.

After some camping . . .

[pkm123]

Hi CruizinDux and Otra15,
My reply is off subject but here goes. I have a question regarding some earlier posts from 2016. I have a 2007 19’ Bambi but follow a lot of the posts on 20 footers. You both had a discussion about installing propane gages using the existing hoses to the propane regulator. I have tried moving the position of the tanks with the tie down bar but the hoses are tight against the cover no matter how I position the tanks. It puts a binding force on the cover. I can get the cover to settle on the a- frame but it is not ideal. Did you guys come up with a less binding solution? The previous posts did not seem to indicate that’ll I missed it.

Thanks,
Ken

[CruizinDux]

PKM123, I'll follow this is up with picture if i have some, or later if i need take some and post...post trip.

So i bought two $12 mr bbq?? gauges at WMart and yes they bind s they add maybe 3" of non flex to the connection. Long story about 3 month warranty repair of furnace inc tank to regulator connections.

I think i have some before/after pics but i believe i swapped tHe tanks LTR & RTL which helped with it binding. I had bought. 2 18" acme hoses at CW but had not installed them yet. Enter dealer for above warranty...could not figure out the crossover and ended up installing the new hoses under my supervision since they destroyed the OEM's. By swapping the thanks i could change the direction of the tank connection in relation go the grab handle...kinda opened it up if that makes sence.

It is tight but does work...binds very slightly but not enough to cause damage to the end of hose fitting...the compressed end not the acme end. This is where the dealer destroyed them...and tired to deliver it to me with the smell of gas very apparent.

Lastly the hold down bar. Since the tank swap the handle openings were a bit off. So i used a thin disc grinder and cut a notch on the hold down channel bar so it better fit the grab openings in the vertical handle semi circle.

I also had earlier tried a new hole in the n/s support but because of the way my jack tube was welded it did not help. Unless i figure out a workaround my jack will continue to have a slight rear tilt...thus in part, connected to the binding.

This will make more sense with some pics...go follow from the 9 lives laptop.

B

[CruizinDux]

In case these aren't sequential


8819 Plan a: new gauges and OEM hoses EDIT: top left)
9601 Pan b: new gauges and OEM hoses EDIT: top right)

New Hoses Plan C (final design): new gauges and 18" (??) hoses Edit bottom



Not the best angle but they work great...just need to remember the gauge is the opposite side. I keep the other tank closed....til the very end.

I would suggest going with the camco brand. one of mine is proven inaccurate at best and soon to be replaced

p.s. http://www.airforums.com/forums/f542...ml#post1853006 post 1264. re the propane tray recall and relocation/correct attachment.


Moving the tray may give you another 1/2 to 1' to help mitigate binding

[OTRA15]

Ken, my recollection is that Bob was the main contributor on this back in 2016. We keep one tank turned off, and fill the newly emptied one ASAP. Also keep a log book about propane usage [vs. outside temps/weather], which helps us monitor the remaining single tank from running out, until it can be filled.

Had both tanks run out once with the 25' in the 90's, before implementing this KISS approach.

Peter

[CruizinDux]

Darryll's photos and text suggest that removing the dinette seat is a pretty minimal project, and is probably the most sensible thing to do next IMO.]
After some camping . . .

[/QUOTE]

I think you're right. Dinette it is...yrs after road trip.

[pkm123]

Bob and Peter,
Thanks for your replies. Bob, I will try crossing the OEM short hoses. Haven’t tried that yet. Not sure if I will change out the lines for 18” ones. The short ones work they just distort the cover some and will make it a little more difficult to fill the tanks. Always enjoy your detailed posts.
Thanks,
Ken

[Rovin Raven]

Ok, folks, back to a plumbing question.Has anyone replaced their outside shower? Do I just unscrew and pull out the box to unscrew the hoses, i.e. are they flexible hoses? Also, do I need to apply butyl tape to the flange first or just sealant around the perimeter? Any other suggestions?

[OTRA15]

Originally Posted by Rovin Raven

Ok, folks, back to a plumbing question.Has anyone replaced their outside shower? Do I just unscrew and pull out the box . . .
. . .

That is my recollection the one time I looked. Not sure about sealing.

Peter

[CruizinDux]

Originally Posted by pkm123

Bob and Peter,
Thanks for your replies. Bob, I will try crossing the OEM short hoses. Haven’t tried that yet. Not sure if I will change out the lines for 18” ones. The short ones work they just distort the cover some and will make it a little more difficult to fill the tanks. Always enjoy your detailed posts.
Thanks,
Ken

Ken thinking while otr i5 about the tank swap, I remembered that the shutoff valves were in a slightly different rotation, as in how far there were screwed into the tank and so didn't have the same position in relationship to the opening handle metal. Think of looking at a plan view...directly down. By swapping the tanks i got a bit better-softer angle so the hose did not bind as much where it hits the cover. I suspect this may fary from tank to tank. However maybe with a wrench, you could accomplish better positioning. I may play with this too...didn't think of it before.
B

[CruizinDux]

RR, I've never had it off/out, tho the FW nearby did not have enough play when i pulled it bach thinking/hoping that it was leaking vs my BW failure. However maybe put a camera in the cavity after removing the alu. Maybe peter has some better images. I do but I'm otr for another week and my images are at home on the laptop.

Surely you can likely reach the connections via the opening then remove the box if there is not enough play. BTW i have heard that some folks add a 12" SS service connection in a loop, which more flexible and so does not loosen as easily.

i too would like the answer on the sealing method. You may wa t to post to a sealant thread. Here is one i have been following. Answer may even be there...i follow it loosely.

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f456...ml#post2230384

Bob

[pkm123]

Bob,
I will see about my shutoff valve orientation and if the valve can be moved or by switching the tanks from side to side makes a difference. Do you feel changing to 18” hoses was a benefit? It seems you would still have the sharp 90 angle of the hose coming off the tank gauge. CW has a 12”, 15” and 18” connector hoses. Not sure what would be ideal. They will all rest against the cover due to the short distance from the tank gauge to the cover. Thanks again for your input.
Ken

[CruizinDux]

Ken the oem 12's seemed tight, the 15's would probably too. Seems the 18's were cheaper and i thought the longer would give me more flexability..truely winging it. Also by looping for the opposite side connection in conjunction with the swap/rotation ut night soften the angle now about a 45 to something less. I'm also going to think thru a different hold down channel bar so the connection and the resulting angle at the cover can be softened even more...maybe eliminated. Maybe extend the threaded rod and have the hold down bar on top of the handle ...longer... To reach the back of the the rim circle as opposed to the current mid way and reaching only to the inside of the circle. This would allow for any rotation angle for the connection.

[CruizinDux]

RR i would put back the same way JC installed it. My FW had only the foam seal, but no gasket sealant like they do for the tail light bezels. On my new higher tail !ights they did both, but then again the mount location was not perfectly flat
Bob