20-footers

[OTRA15]

Originally Posted by waldosgone

One issue did come up on the ALCAN (other than a bunch of dings on the driver side front guard and a bunch of tar on the left.

The water line into the toilet started a slow leak but is only sporadic. Has anyone experienced this and how did you fix it? There isn't much room to work back there...

Thanks, James, for the great reports and photos! Glad you reached Alaska without many troubles along the way.

Starting with the above, where did you notice the leak, and did you have to remove the aluminum cover over the plumbing in the back right corner as you stand at the toilet? See Post #839 here for photos of this area in our 2014. Maybe yours is different? No problems that we have seen here.

Did the 6v batteries fit in the OEM battery box, and could you please ID the brand/model/cost when you have time. Lead/acid or AGM? Maybe your 2015 box is larger/taller than ours? Are you planning on getting solar at some point, and will the 6v batteries fit in that scheme is one question we have for upgrading converter/batteries/solar.

I forget if you have a generator, but FYI our new Yamaha tri-fuel 1000 watt gen has worked out great per Post #1005 here. Not sure if this is big enough for you with the new PD4655 converter, though, as jpons suggested in Post #915.

Hope your move to Alaska works out well!

Thanks again for the updates,

Peter

[OTRA15]

PS -- missed Edit time window.

Check out jpons' Post #958 for plumbing in toilet area, as part of his composting toilet installation.

[subfan1]

Love the pictures, thanks for sharing. Assume you tightened the nut behind the toilet?

[CruizinDux]

James, good to hear from you. I was wondering how the trip was going. Great pics and a good visual for anyone thinking of Alaska. Can't wait to show them to my wife. Thanks too for the trip details...all good info.


Not sure where your leak is...at the toilet connection, at the angle stop?

Bob

p.s. when you have time, any info re box mods needed for the 2 6v's is appreciated. I heard the 2016's box was deeper but hadn't heard the same fr the 2015's

[waldosgone]

The 6v batteries didn't fit in the stock 2015 box; as I was on the road I had Torklift Central in Kent, WA do it. After talking with them about raising vs lowering the cost was going to be the same so I had them drop the bottom of the box two inches. Ground clearance was my primary concern but the spare tire holder sits lower than the battery box so I think it looks more clean.

The batteries are from Costco. Interstate GC2, item #850284. Price was ~$160 for the pair with the core trade in for the two boiled stock Group24s. Comes with a two year trade in warranty so I couldn't justify the price difference between that and the Trojans.

I don't have a generator yet, or plan to get solar. Solar in Alaska would be a crapshoot as most of our preferred campsites are under pretty good canopy. We are considering a generator, converted with the GenConnex Kit, to run on propane. Looking at Honda eu2000i specifically... The only thing that concerns me about the GenConnex Kit is that you remove most of the "guts" to run on gasoline but the kit is very clean.

As far as propane usage we're still on the dealer tanks of propane. We've spent ~45 nights in it since purchasing Chinook in early April of this year. Most of our nights were spent in a campground with electric so we ran the heat pump vs the furnace. I'm planning on filling the propane tanks when I dump the black tanks from our fishing trip this weekend (caught 50 red salmon and two flounders).

[OTRA15]

Thanks James. One of your propane tanks should run out before the other, I assume you know. You can check which one by the arrow on the regulator knob, pointing to the active tank. Turn off the other tank manually, and see if you can light a burner on the cooktop. If the first tank is empty, turn the regulator knob 180, and the other tank should have some propane left, but you can check this one too manually.

May I recommend that you use up the propane tank-by-tank, and manually turn the arrow knob to keep track of which tank is active? This way you keep better track of your usage. We keep a log of propane refills, in fact I have the same old log from the 90's and it is interesting to look over the list of refill locations and costs. $19 then vs. $34 now!

Some folks actually turn off one propane tank, and use up the other, as a way of tracking usage. In winter of course this might require getting up in the middle of the night to get the furnace and fridge to work.

One thing to watch for -- some posters have reported that the propane regulator does not switch tanks reliably, and that the the little red marker that shows through the window does not always work right. These potential problems certainly recommend turning off one tank manually until the system operation becomes perfectly clear and predictable.

Thanks for the feedback on the batteries. Yes, your solution to lower the box makes sense, and keeps the new work (and possible rusty areas later) less visible etc.. Our batteries seem to be performing well, so we will cross this bridge when it comes over the horizon.

On the gen, the GenConnex conversion is more elegant, but the affect on Honda's warranty is one thing to be considered, as you have probably read. [Edit -- vs. Yamaha] Will post links if you want.

Thanks again for the infomation!

Peter

[jpons]

I honestly have not tried out the speakers. I have the TV set to send the sound back to the radio for better sound, so I have not even tried the speakers on the TV itself.

The TV and the mount on the AS should both be VESA compatible, so you should not have any issues, except for the screws themselves. My TV did not come with any and the old Samsung TV came with screws that where too long. So I had to find replacement screws, not a biggie.

My TV came with the 12v plug, I was not sure if that was going to be the case so I ordered one as well (I think it cost me $3). So now I have a spare one I am not sure what to do with. But for $3 it was good insurance.

Juan

Originally Posted by CruizinDux

J thanks. Yes...I've been looking around online today both dual/ straight 110V as well as LED/LCD. Also an education too.

I finally noticed at your link, it opted for the either the HDTV or HDTV+DVD. I was focused on the screen size options and went straight to the reviews...totally missed the DVD option...duh. We're thinking for the bedroom the 19 may be a better fit. I think this week I'll pull out the stereo a few inches to inspect the birds nest as it would, be nice to have a 12V on the TV side of the wall. You're right about the weight too. That model and the LED style....like adding another pillow to the tongue weight.

About the only neg on the reviews was the sound/speakers. The 20's are pretty small and I'm thinking it may be NA for this application.

I wasn't looking closely at the swing arm but didn't notice on similar to our OEM with the release pin. I'll look at he on in the trailer for the mf'r and poke around the net.

Looks like the 12v power cord adapter for the cig lighter comes with it too.


Thanks for the link and feedback.

bob

[CruizinDux]

Originally Posted by waldosgone

The 6v batteries didn't fit in the stock 2015 box; as I was on the road I had Torklift Central in Kent, WA do it. After talking with them about raising vs lowering the cost was going to be the same so I had them drop the bottom of the box two inches. Ground clearance was my primary concern but the spare tire holder sits lower than the battery box so I think it looks more clean.

The batteries are from Costco. Interstate GC2, item #850284. Price was ~$160 for the pair with the core trade in for the two boiled stock Group24s. Comes with a two year trade in warranty so I couldn't justify the price difference between that and the Trojans.

I'm planning on filling the propane tanks when I dump the black tanks from our fishing trip this weekend (caught 50 red salmon and two flounders).

James

Thanks or the box info. I think I'm headed there too. I figure I can cut the bottom out of the existing and have a box made to just harely slip up the inside of the old box . If I start with 6" high sides, then I can adjust the level simply by removing some screws in the sides and adjusting the box up/down. I'm doing it this winter as I expect our batts aren't in the greatest shape and I want to be able to do a quick swap when to do head south...the box being ready to go.

Bob

[CruizinDux]

Originally Posted by OTRA15

Thanks James. One of your propane tanks should run out before the other, I assume you know. You can check which one by the arrow on the regulator knob, pointing to the active tank.
Peter

Peter to clarify. When we went to SD I kept watching the arrow, but it never flipped to the other tank. Both tanks were open and ready to draw down. I never took off the enclosure ( as our fits terribly with the jack/tank alignment) so when I got home and removed them for a refill, one was empty and the other about 35%. When I got back I asked my wife to ID the cor (I'm color blind)...sure enough it was red. The color changes but the arrow is a manual, at least that was my experience.

After re-reading the manual for the regulator I realized this is how they work. The lever doesn't turn over on it's own, it simply shows which one was he primary before it sensed no gas and the regulator changed to the other tank.

I thought about riveting a SS residential floor duplex cover with a screw out cover. Cut a whole in the cover, screw out the cap and look for green or red. Heck, I can't see the color anyway. Then I noticed that WM sells tank gauges for bbq's...about $12 per...done and done. No more guessing.

They seem to last a long time. We've only used the gas furnace and have never used the HP. It seems so noisy.


My plan since I manage tongue weight pretty closely is to start a trip with one @ 100% and the other in the 25% range ( and turned off). Since I have the gauges I can easily monitor the primary & open the secondary, then refill the primary at the next gas stop.

Bob

[CruizinDux]

Originally Posted by jpons

I honestly have not tried out the speakers. I have the TV set to send the sound back to the radio for better sound, so I have not even tried the speakers on the TV itself.

The TV and the mount on the AS should both be VESA compatible, so you should not have any issues, except for the screws themselves. My TV did not come with any and the old Samsung TV came with screws that where too long. So I had to find replacement screws, not a biggie.

My TV came with the 12v plug, I was not sure if that was going to be the case so I ordered one as well (I think it cost me $3). So now I have a spare one I am not sure what to do with. But for $3 it was good insurance.

Juan

Juan, thanks. Sounds like the swap was easy and you have some spare parts

To the heart of the question "I have the TV set to send the sound back to the radio for better sound, so I have not even tried the speakers on the TV itself."

How do you accomplish this as this is probably how it is done for the blue ray as well.


http://www.airforums.com/forums/f450...-153874-2.html


Some folks indicated the for BR sound thru the stereo (vs the TV), change the stereo to CD2. Is this your process or is it via the tools for the TV & BR using the remote?

Bob

[OTRA15]

Originally Posted by CruizinDux

. . .
My plan since I manage tongue weight pretty closely is to start a trip with one @ 100% and the other in the 25% range ( and turned off). Since I have the gauges I can easily monitor the primary & open the secondary, then refill the primary at the next gas stop.

Bob

Yes, your summary about manually rotating the regulator arrow sounds right.

If you are not heating with propane, each tank lasts quite a while. The fridge does not burn much while boondocking, at least in moderate weather. Plus, even our new small Yamaha 1000 gen will run the fridge (and charge the batteries).

I like aiming for full tanks and using a manual log book. Given the slow rate of use, this KISS system works fine. Even in the 90's with our big cross-country trip one winter in the 25', we were fine, and we had to use the furnace a lot. But the added gauges you propose make perfect sense also!

Query -- will you have to remove the propane tank cover to read your new (stick on?) gauges visually? Or is this what you mean?

http://www.walmart.com/ip/Mr.-Bar-B-...Gauge/13350316

Is our propane setup pre-threaded for this?

Tanks!

Peter

[CruizinDux]

Peter, yes those are the ones or at least equal. Mr. B-B-Q??? Mine must have been on sale.

Don't need to remove cover, just lift top. The connections are all good with OEM hoses. I may add an ell where it comes out of the regulator as the OEM hoses are pretty short. I had to swap the tanks side by side to make the best fit for the hoses so they don't bind. It's just the way the shutoff is screwed in, in relation to the collar handle and how the tie down bar slips into the collar handle, if that makes sense. This is likely a individual difference. I'm going to Blue today for other work and will grab a pic.

I agree with you on the use. These tanks last a long time and it's mainly furnace.

bob

[OTRA15]

No picture needed, I just looked at mine and understand the need to re-arrange things, given the size of that assembly.

Thanks

[CruizinDux]

Originally Posted by OTRA15

No picture needed, I just looked at mine and understand the need to re-arrange things, given the size of that assembly.

Thanks

Peter, the hose arc is a little tight but seems to work. I may slide the tank tray back about an inch too, especially since the front of the enclosure is hard to the jack...even after I asked them to add two washers to the post (to match the one for the ground connection) so it was plumb. Previously is had a slight lean to the rear so the enclosure bracket was out of alignment.

Bob

[jpons]

By the TV my 20 footer has a pair of RCA cables. What I did is get a mini jack (3.5mm) to RCA cable and plug those RCA jacks into the headphone out on the TV. Then on the radio set it to CD2 (I think) and voila!

Pretty simple really.

-J

Originally Posted by CruizinDux

Juan, thanks. Sounds like the swap was easy and you have some spare parts

To the heart of the question "I have the TV set to send the sound back to the radio for better sound, so I have not even tried the speakers on the TV itself."

How do you accomplish this as this is probably how it is done for the blue ray as well.


http://www.airforums.com/forums/f450...-153874-2.html


Some folks indicated the for BR sound thru the stereo (vs the TV), change the stereo to CD2. Is this your process or is it via the tools for the TV & BR using the remote?

Bob

[CruizinDux]

Originally Posted by jpons

By the TV my 20 footer has a pair of RCA cables. What I did is get a mini jack (3.5mm) to RCA cable and plug those RCA jacks into the headphone out on the TV. Then on the radio set it to CD2 (I think) and voila!

Pretty simple really.

-J

If you're referring to the 2 RCA in your post 1108, then bummer. Another difference in the safari/fc. Our 2014 has a double dupe (110v although the illustration in the manual shows a 12V cig lighter receptacle !!!) & the cable connection w/booster button and that's it.

There must be some RCA connections behind the that hookup to the BR and maybe the stereo too. I'll have to play with this. I could not pull up CD-anything today probably because I have no 110V at storage, so can't turn on the BR for the Sony to recognize.

Maybe I'll be lucky and when the BR is powered and I can switch to CD2 and have BR/TV output thru the Sony and it's speakers.


J thanks for the feedback. It give me hope that there must be a way that I haven't stumbled onto yet.

Bob

[CruizinDux]

FYI

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f368...ml#post1826788


Love to hear from the 20's too!

Bob

[CruizinDux]

Originally Posted by CruizinDux

FYI

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f368...ml#post1826788


Love to hear from the 20's too!

Bob

I have started a new thread in re 13 & 20 from the above link to a more appropriate sub forum;

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f449...ml#post1826918

thanks for all your tolerance.

bob

[subfan1]

Originally Posted by CruizinDux

subfan1...so no music at all or just still thru the TV.

It's going to be awhile until I have 110 to check, but will follow up and see if I can se what the TV and Sony is set.

The first and last time I tried the CD in the BR I had music but thru the TV. I switched the the mp3 then.

Bob

Hi, I just tried I think, every possible combination on the radio regarding playing a CD but, nothing through the ceiling speakers. As a matter of fact, I turned the radio completely off and only had CD music coming through the TV using the blue ray. Oh well, I've given up for now.

[CruizinDux]

Originally Posted by subfan1

Hi, I just tried I think, every possible combination on the radio regarding playing a CD but, nothing through the ceiling speakers. As a matter of fact, I turned the radio completely off and only had CD music coming through the TV using the blue ray. Oh well, I've given up for now.

Hey thanks....same here. We have a month long trip in September generally with SP, so I'll try everything then and a tall cool one for company.

Thanks for trying.

Enjoy your time in Yosemite.

Bob