20-footers

[CruizinDux]

OK, catching up: tongue jack, wheel wells FW petcock, cleat

Tongue Jack: The dealer determined that the jack gears jammed due ti it bottoming out. Note on the last trip I lost the post plate passing by Camp Roberts…wow, what was that cathunkthunkthunk? Seems on our ’14 the plate is compressed on & not secured by a lynch pin. I was told at OEM walk thru when I asked how far can/should I run the jack up…is there a stop built into the post/gears?....until it stops was the answer. I did opt for a new plate with a pin and had them drill the post. However the plate collar was a little lower that the OEM, so when I ran the jack up as Beachside as usual, it was a bit higher and it jammed the gears and blew the fuse.

They wanted to charge, I felt I followed their instruction and they agreed. Warranty. I’m either going to tap a screw just above the recently added black line or look for a PVC fitting with a 2” ID and slip a ½” slice onto the post as a stop. I’ll also be more diligent on finding a few spare 30 slow blow fuses for my “spares” bag. Good to know I may not need to carry a spare switch as some have noted in the threads, but just in case I will be covering the head with a plastic bag…because it never rains in Oregon.

PS, the material in the jack picture is some 50 mil TPO membrane that I got from a roofing contractor friend. I cut some from scraps added grommets at the two top corners and I use then for wheel covers. They’ll last forever and also double as a mat when I need to slide under the AS.

Wheel Wells: as noted earlier I had two “subfloor exposure” spots but were very small. I gave the dealer the options to overlay with a small SM patch, caulk, or both. They opted to caulk. They removed the wheels and caulked the seams/joints as well as the two area. Pretty good job and I think I’m done. I’ll monitor over time for caulk integrity and as required add the under seal used by Peter and Jose.

FW Petcock. The dealer was going to blow the back to clear, but after thinking about it, I don’t think it is sediment, but probably a bug and I don’t want to push that up into the tank. I’m going to try a vac and maybe a pipe cleaner for now. After all, the 0 degree position is wide open, it’s just the 180 that is clogged. Historically after winterization if have left the FW and LP valves wide open. I think I’m going to tighten that tolerance up a bit to allow a drip or two.

Has anyone removed/swapped out their petcock. The plastic OEM must have a huge target on it and in fact, I’m surprised the aforementioned jack plate now residing somewhere along Highway 101 must have just missed it. I don’t mind reaching in to drain/flush, but am thinking of brass? Any experience and feedback is appreciated


Cleat: Peter’s correct, the 1X on the inside of the dinette storage will likely conflict with nuts for any thru bolt installation. Since it appears it sole purpose is to support the cushion plywood (it doesn’t appear that the cleat screws thru the cleat, the laminate and also the 1X), I think I’ll swap it out for a 1X2(or3) on both sides and thru bolt the existing cleat. FYI, it’s 13.5” from FF to top of cleat in case you want to cut one of those spare 4x4 we all seem to carry and let the current cleat system ride.


I'm heading gout to storage maybe today to deal with the jack stop but also to look for the AC drain. I looked everywhere but up. I'll also pull the AC cover in the interior.

[OTRA15]

Thanks Bob for the updates. On the road now, so briefly: Hope your A/C lower cover screws (8) have clean Phillips heads. They are buried per the Dometic manual. Also need to release the two grey clips hidden at the aft end where the discharge flapper can be adjusted. Hard to put into words but the Installation steps show them in theory, but no word on how to release them. If you get up on a step stool with a flashlight they are pretty obvious.

Good luck and thanks on the heads up on the jack limits. Luckily I heard years ago not to rely on the limits, to release the switch before you hit them.

Glad things are progressing you are getting short for the trip North!

Peter

[CruizinDux]

Just a FYI to y'all


http://www.airforums.com/forums/f449...ml#post1794159

Bob

[CruizinDux]

Originally Posted by OTRA15

Thanks Bob for the updates. On the road now, so briefly: Hope your A/C lower cover screws (8) have clean Phillips heads. They are buried per the Dometic manual. Also need to release the two grey clips hidden at the aft end where the discharge flapper can be adjusted. Hard to put into words but the Installation steps show them in theory, but no word on how to release them. If you get up on a step stool with a flashlight they are pretty obvious.

Good luck and thanks on the heads up on the jack limits. Luckily I heard years ago not to rely on the limits, to release the switch before you hit them.

Glad things are progressing you are getting short for the trip North!

Peter

"On the road now, so briefly:..." WaaHoo! Have a great time & safe journey!


Thanks for the tip on the Dometic. I'll grab the install manual. I planned to take a stone to sharpen my Phillips as needed

Yes Orcas Island is in our sights (early June) ...can't wait.

Bob

[OTRA15]

Alas sorry to disappoint but OTRA w/o trailer. Bad terminology . . .



Getting closer though . . . Fridge is chilling.

I almost dug out the small impact driver for that last A/C screw, but the Phillips heads for that have too-large diameter drive tips. Fortunately the new screwdriver did the trick with lots of applied pressure on the screw head. A totally stripped screw in this location would actually require partial destruction of the bottom cover IMO, or some really dicey drilling and screw extractors upside down! No thanks. Dodged that bullet . . .

Thanks for the Use/Store heads up. I guess the old 25' was like that so I have always followed that protocol and the batteries did fine this winter with shore power and trailer 12v juggled constantly, all while monitoring voltage, water and SpecGrav. Having the trailer in the driveway made this very simple fortunately.

[OTRA15]

Originally Posted by CruizinDux

. . I’ll also be more diligent on finding a few spare 30 slow blow fuses for my “spares” bag.
. . .

Did you ever find any of these 30A slow-blow fuses? Amazon does not have them, and our local auto parts stores don't either. See here:

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f44/...se-151073.html

Thanks,

Peter

[OTRA15]

Disregard, NAPA had a pack of 5 for about $11.

[CruizinDux]

Originally Posted by OTRA15

Disregard, NAPA had a pack of 5 for about $11.

I may be sending your an order : ))) kinda kidding..kinda not. I'll know more Monday

b

[OTRA15]

I guess you can order online, but your NAPA store should have them IMO. The label on the end of the small box does not indicate Slow-blow, so the counter clerk did not find them right away. A search of the catalog yielded the right SKU.

http://www.napaonline.com/napa/en/p/...335/BK_7821335

On end of small box:
782-1335...QTY
MDL-30........5

[CruizinDux]

Peter, Not sure what happened last night but there was a post re tale of woe re my fuse search futility.

I'll call the local Napa's today (3) as online shows out of stock. Online store pick up show out of stock too. I'll know more today.

As I had indicated in the failed post, the dealer referred me to a local specialty electrical supplier (Oregon Electric). If need be I'll try them Monday and maybe my mechanic, since I have a service scheduled this week.

Bob

p.s more later on the AC/T condensation connection.

[OTRA15]

Your post is on that other thread where rich just posted an Amazon link for a Bussman 32v fuse which looks OK also.

[CruizinDux]

Originally Posted by OTRA15

Your post is on that other thread where rich just posted an Amazon link for a Bussman 32v fuse which looks OK also.

How embarrassing. yes, the other thread.

b

[CruizinDux]

Online was out and it indicated local stores were as well.

I called to local Napa who was out of stock be he said, Portland will have it here on Monday. Apparently plenty in stock just not available online or locally except for a 1/2 hour drive North.

I think I'm still going to go by Oregon Ele (just don the street from Napa) to discuss slow blow availability in spade types which may be more readily available.

Bob

[OTRA15]

Swapping in a new fuse holder may void your warranty for further tongue jack motor problems? Glass fuses will be around for a long time IMO. Is yours working now, sorry I forget . . .

[CruizinDux]

Originally Posted by OTRA15

Swapping in a new fuse holder may void your warranty for further tongue jack motor problems? Glass fuses will be around for a long time IMO. Is yours working now, sorry I forget . . .

Peter great point on the warranty..tho I also don't have one anymore on the refer fan (albeit a much cheaper component) I have ordered 2 5-packs as they're cheap and take no space.

Yes the jack is working, thanks. The gears were jammed due to the no system stop and the new plate with a lower collar, thus further post travel upwards. The motor overloaded at jam and blew the fuse.

Someone mentioned there should be a stop in the jack. The dealer said no even thought that was the original instruction. I've read the Barker manual more times that the Sony manual and it is silent on that point. I'm calling this week.

I'm putting another screw on the back of the post...just above their stop line, just as insurance. It if jams, it's the dealer. I'm sure I'll be on the east coast then. Orcas I will be a good test with two nights on the way and there must be a dealer in the Seattle area.


bob

[CruizinDux]

I think I'll follow Bob and swap out the FR drain.

AC, drain is on DS WW. As for the T, no clamp and the tube less than an 1/8th past the barbs. With some pliers gingerly on the hose I pushed against the T held by my left hand middle finger and gained another 1/8th+. You can see the line on the hose from the original position. I'll take one more pass for another 1/8th and maybe get a screw gear clamp on what hose I have.

Thanks Teagues, for the tip re a slightly nose up attitude Looking into the unit, I suspect that is a big part of the fix.

Peter, thanks for the tip on the tabs and the step stool. I actually had get the side of my face almost to the ceiling to see them.

Bob

[OTRA15]

Thanks Bob,

Re: fresh water tank drain -- A later poster (on that other thread), however, did say that freeing up the old plastic drain from the hose/clamp behind it was a bear. I would get a spare plastic drain only for now, and wait on the surgery IMO. "If it ain't broke . . . ?" [ possibility of a can of worms lurking here, especially pre-Orcas ] [edit -- dealer in Seattle area is supposed to be excellent]

Are you able to run your A/C with the drain line exposed? That is what I want to see -- is the drain backing up from a kink down the line maybe? Is that back-pressure causing a leak? Why does teagues's fix work at all? Want to see mine in person if possible before replacing the cover. Planning on getting my Honda 3500 up to the house this week if I have time, and running the A/C until I can see the condensate in the drain(s), and hopefully also dripping on the ground near the street-side wheel. I could run the A/C on my 20 amp circuit (per earlier post) I guess, but that voltage drop did not recommend this approach. Rather not damage the motors . . .

Getting a new hose clamp up there (without removing the tube from the barbed T) is going to be a pain, as the geometry is tight up there. Do you think the tubing will slip off without messing up other things? Is it possible that this slip-on friction fit is intentional and within specs., given that there should be no back pressure in the main drain line (unless of course there is a kink downstream from a sloppy installation)?

There is only one way to answer these questions -- which is to see the thing run and generate plenty of condensate, while observing visually.

If there IS an obstruction downstream, which causes the condensate to back up and leak at the non-clamped location, I will probably consider taking the trailer back to a dealer for repair. Who knows where the blockage might be? We don't like to use the A/C at all, but when it is needed, it is a life-saver. We spent a few days huddled in the old 25' in Maine of all places during a heat wave, and were sure mighty glad for the A/C. The trailer was uninhabitable without it!

TBD until I can see it run, I guess . . .

Cheers,

Peter

PS -- Thanks for confirming the location of the drain at the wheel well. Did you actually see condensate come out there, or just observed the drain outlet location?

PS2 -- I did find some black hard steel pan-head Phillips sheet metal screws and will use them. #6 x 3/4" screws are a bit tighter in the OEM holes in the interior aluminum skin, but this is OK. I also got some #8 screws to have on hand in case they are needed down the road. Not sure if the #8 heads would fit in the plastic lower case "tubes" for the screws, but that bridge is over the horizon . . .

PS3 -- "Ain't trailerin' fun . . . ?"

[teagues]

I am having trouble getting my bearings here. Guessing that there was a design change at some point, since my unit only has a single line leading off of the drain pan and it is not nearly as accessible or visible as what I am seeing here. With your configuration, it should be easy to determine whether an obstruction exists, and you would not need to run the AC to do it.

[OTRA15]

Thanks, a different A/C I guess? I will look into manually adding water to the condensate pans today. Not sure about this. Will advise.

Would still like to run the unit full-tilt with the bottom cover off.

Peter

[OTRA15]

Got a clamp on that drain hose, and found the drain at the wheel well, on the street-side above the front edge of the tire.

I don't see any way to get water into the A/C condensate pans, except to get on the roof maybe. No thanks. The two initial drain lines are above the interior skin of the trailer, and disappear left and right above the skin. Gonna get the compressor later.

Fun stuff . . .

Peter