20-footers

[MaineStreamer]

Originally Posted by dlackey

Hi All -
I'm new here - after renting a 19' we've pretty much decided to go with a 20' Flying Cloud. I'm considering with a V-6 Grand Cherokee or Toyota 4-Runner tow vehilce. Anyone out there have any experience with either of those? What tow vehicles you folks are actually using with your 20' FC?
Thanks in advance -
David

I have a 2007 20' Safari, a model that is now called Flying Cloud, with the same floorplan. The trailer's towing weight is 5,000 lbs. I tow with 2014 Grand Cherokee 4WD Laredo,V-6, perhaps what you are considering. I have had no difficulties as to sufficient power, etc.

That said, I have not gone to the Rockies or anywhere with challenging long slopes. When I retire and start doing really extensive Airstream travel, planned for summer 2020, I expect to get an F-150 with a cap or similar pickup in order to have the bed's separate carrying area/storage, especially for things like 2 Honda EU2000, which I don't want to haul inside the SUV with the people.

See http://www.trailerlife.com/trailer-towing-guides/ for the years of the tow vehicles that you are considering.

[tzaak]

Originally Posted by dlackey

Hi All -
I'm new here - after renting a 19' we've pretty much decided to go with a 20' Flying Cloud. I'm considering with a V-6 Grand Cherokee or Toyota 4-Runner tow vehilce. Anyone out there have any experience with either of those? What tow vehicles you folks are actually using with your 20' FC?
Thanks in advance -
David

David,

We have had our 20 for 6 months now and towing with a 2011 4runner. The 4runner handled the load great - barely even knowing you were pulling the trailer. The challenge was not the gross weight but tongue weight. With full propane the tongue went to 620lbs vs the 4runner tongue max at 500lbs. We are picking up a Sequoia this week which goes to 7400lbs and 800 tongue.

Hope this helps.. Bob...yes another one...but just call me tzaak

[tzaak]

Hi all,

I've had my 20fter for 6 months now. But what I did notice last year was the battery's would not stay charged (once unhooked it would not move the electric trailer off the hitch) - this is after a full charge at home for a week. I have not much knowledge in this area so any advice would be great.

I have no idea what the last owner did but only used the trailer for 20 days (all the stickers were still in the bathroom). So it sat in storage.

I have 2 interstates which even on a drip charge go dead in 2 hours just sitting. The battery's were stamped Feb of 2014 and have a 5 year warranty. I have a interstate battery place 2 miles from my house so I was going to have them replaced (albeit) with 2 years left so prorated. Any advice on taking great care of these would be appreciated.

Tzaak

[tzaak]

also to keep within tongue limits we removed the propane when moving around.

[CruizinDux]

Originally Posted by tzaak

Hi all,

I've had my 20fter for 6 months now. But what I did notice last year was the battery's would not stay charged (once unhooked it would not move the electric trailer off the hitch) - this is after a full charge at home for a week. I have not much knowledge in this area so any advice would be great.

I have no idea what the last owner did but only used the trailer for 20 days (all the stickers were still in the bathroom). So it sat in storage.

I have 2 interstates which even on a drip charge go dead in 2 hours just sitting. The battery's were stamped Feb of 2014 and have a 5 year warranty. I have a interstate battery place 2 miles from my house so I was going to have them replaced (albeit) with 2 years left so prorated. Any advice on taking great care of these would be appreciated.

Tzaak

Tzaak, it sounds like the batts have been neglected, likely low on water and maybe often run down to less than 50% of charge not to mention cooked by the single stage Parallax 7300 converter/charger having been left on SP for extended periods of time w/o the store switched off. Store isolates the batteries from the converter. Disconnecting the negative post does the same but is the path for longer periods if non use.

I think your diagnosis is likely correct but the dealer should be able to test and confirm. Replacement is likely the path. There are a zillion forum threads re AGM's or even converting the 2 @12VDC to 2 @6VDC golf cart batteries if you boondock a lot

I don't have SP at storage. I always disconnect the negative so the parasitic draws (generally radio, LP detector and possible the sub-woofer) don't run things to no charge in the blink of an eye. Always in the winter and other times if I'm not going to use the TT in the next few weeks, I pull the batts and use a CTEK smart charger with the batts on my workbench.

Also keep the (distilled) water topped off and never let the plates become exposed, especially in hot weather.

If you don't have a meter, it's your #1 tool. OK, there are a lot of #1's but should be considered a never be without.

You don't say whether you have SP at storage or not. If you do and use SP to keep the batteries charged, then read few posts back by Subfan1 who replaced his OEM charger for a new Progressive Dynamics smart charger. This is a very good MOD. Some folks simply switch to "store" and put the batteries on any good 3 or 4 stage smart charger. The third option and probably the most popular route is to replace the OEM Parallax with a Progressive Dynamics 4655 converter & (smart charger)

Hope this helps.

Bob

[CruizinDux]

Originally Posted by tzaak

also to keep within tongue limits we removed the propane when moving around.

I usually travel with 1 tank full and the backup about 1/4 or enough to get me thru a night. On our 3 week maiden voyage last winter, we used 1 and 1/8 tanks of gas, and we ran the furnace a lot! 2 full tanks for us just isn't needed and either is the weight.

I also use the FW (.25-.375 +/-) and 2 bikes on a rear mounted Fiamma rack to adjust TW. The shower is for heavy dog food & supplies as we usually stay in RV parks and shower there. There is a free county scale a mile from storage so I always weigh on my way out of town. With no lines behind me I've been able to move things around to see immediately the weight transfer results.

I guess it's time to jump in on the TV discussion. 2008 Highlander Limited

For TW, I'm generally around 540 or 11+% of weight. I also generally travel light in both TT and TV and land well under the GVWR/GVAR #'s. My measurements are spot on (thanks Hitch shop) per the Equalizer instructions. Also to make the dog setup better (just me and my wife and 2 dogs) in the TV, I have removed the middle seat since they didn't fold flat and replaced them with a sheet of OSB and a water hog mat. That saved a chunk of lbs. I still have the 3rd row seat to pull up if needed but that is rare. I also added a JetChip to punch up the HP & Torque ratings.

I'm planning on swapping the 19" rims for 17 (w/Defenders) so I get a higher load rating. Next year I may replace the hitch for a known design load.

Our tows sweet behind the Highlander Limited. I've been thru some driving storms/high winds @ Shasta/I5 and high wind advisories areas up and down the Sacto valley and can hardly tell I have company behind me.

Bob

[CruizinDux]

Originally Posted by tzaak

Hi all,

" ........Any advice on taking great care of these would be appreciated."

Tzaak

Tzaak, here is a current thread re battery charging etc. that I hope will provide some insight.

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f449...ng-163326.html

bob

[pegmurphy]

Hi - I purchased the FC20 in October and was towing with my 2007 V8 limited 4Runner - loved the vehicle! It did great on regular highways but I didn't like how I would feel buffeted around on the interstate by large trucks. As I had horrific accident pulling horses 20 years ago, I just traded in 4Runner for F250 Powerstroke. I'm MUCH happier - and, I will be going to a bigger AS next year and wanted to be prepared for my long trips. Hope this helps..

[dlackey]

Originally Posted by tzaak

David,

We have had our 20 for 6 months now and towing with a 2011 4runner. The 4runner handled the load great - barely even knowing you were pulling the trailer. The challenge was not the gross weight but tongue weight. With full propane the tongue went to 620lbs vs the 4runner tongue max at 500lbs. We are picking up a Sequoia this week which goes to 7400lbs and 800 tongue.

Hope this helps.. Bob...yes another one...but just call me tzaak

Thanks for the feedback - the Sequoia looks like a great choice.

[tzaak]

Originally Posted by CruizinDux

Tzaak, it sounds like the batts have been neglected, likely low on water and maybe often run down to less than 50% of charge not to mention cooked by the single stage Parallax 7300 converter/charger having been left on SP for extended periods of time w/o the store switched off. Store isolates the batteries from the converter. Disconnecting the negative post does the same but is the path for longer periods if non use.

I think your diagnosis is likely correct but the dealer should be able to test and confirm. Replacement is likely the path. There are a zillion forum threads re AGM's or even converting the 2 @12VDC to 2 @6VDC golf cart batteries if you boondock a lot

I don't have SP at storage. I always disconnect the negative so the parasitic draws (generally radio, LP detector and possible the sub-woofer) don't run things to no charge in the blink of an eye. Always in the winter and other times if I'm not going to use the TT in the next few weeks, I pull the batts and use a CTEK smart charger with the batts on my workbench.

Also keep the (distilled) water topped off and never let the plates become exposed, especially in hot weather.

If you don't have a meter, it's your #1 tool. OK, there are a lot of #1's but should be considered a never be without.

You don't say whether you have SP at storage or not. If you do and use SP to keep the batteries charged, then read few posts back by Subfan1 who replaced his OEM charger for a new Progressive Dynamics smart charger. This is a very good MOD. Some folks simply switch to "store" and put the batteries on any good 3 or 4 stage smart charger. The third option and probably the most popular route is to replace the OEM Parallax with a Progressive Dynamics 4655 converter & (smart charger)

Hope this helps.

Bob

Bob, neglected "yes". When I purchased the TT I added over 1 gallon to fill the batteries. So I was hoping I did not have an issue - but in the end I do. replacement batteries are on the way. On storage - anything over 2 weeks I do remove them and drip charge them as I don't have SP available.

I am going to look at the Progressive Dynamics 4655 converter....seems like the right route to go.

[OTRA15]

Originally Posted by tzaak

Bob, neglected "yes". When I purchased the TT I added over 1 gallon to fill the batteries.
. . .

Say no more! Batteries shot.

[CruizinDux]

Tzaak, as I was removing my batteries from the bench in prep of an upcoming adventure I noticed the new 2/0 connects and thought of you and your new batts... FWIW

As always, sound advice from Lewster!

Post #5
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f449...ed-154343.html



Post #23http://www.airforums.com/forums/f449...-132157-2.html



story for another day but I needed to replace a connector so opted for the 2/0's


Bob

[Camano20]

Does anyone know where I can buy a Nylatch 1/4 turn faster for my furnace cover mine has broken and need another
Thanks

[OTRA15]

Have you tried the nearby dealer? Here are some leads to look online, but I don't see the broken latch as a separate part:

http://airstreamsupply.com/New-Airst...nace-39764w-02
https://www.vintagetrailersupply.com/category-s/50.htm
http://odmrv.com/catalog/index.php?m...oducts_id=1359
[last link has a SS cover on sale if it fits and you want to upgrade]

What brand and model is your furnace? The manufacturer's site might have the part.

Good luck!

Peter

PS -- You could also contact Colonial, as the part is small and could be shipped to you for a minimal cost:

http://www.colonialairstream.com/air...mes-parts.html

[Camano20]

Thanks for the info Peter, unfortunately I was not specific enough. The broken faster is for the interior furnace vent cover. It is a small black plastic snap in piece that you give a 1/4 turn to fasten or unfasten to remove the cover. have have the part number. Was hoping not to pay more for shipping than the buck or two that the piece should cost. I will give Colonial a email tomorrow.

[tzaak]

Originally Posted by Camano20

Thanks for the info Peter, unfortunately I was not specific enough. The broken faster is for the interior furnace vent cover. It is a small black plastic snap in piece that you give a 1/4 turn to fasten or unfasten to remove the cover. have have the part number. Was hoping not to pay more for shipping than the buck or two that the piece should cost. I will give Colonial a email tomorrow.

Mine broke also. Picked a set of 2 for ~$3.00 at the airstream dealer in Traverse City MI. I would think all the dealers have them since they are fragile.

Tzaak

[CruizinDux]

Just returned from a recent trip. Day 1, flipped on the stat to FURN, and as usual the fan came on immediately...20 seconds later still no click click and barrumph and the fan turned off Turned off the stat and tried gain and it worked as it should and continued to fire on/turn off per the temp set points. Day 2,3,4,5...same delio. Day 6 the same except that it would not fire with no click click and barrumph, regardless of # of on/offs attempted. Tried the reset toggle on the unit...no effect.

Flipped on the HP and all good, once I got the fan throttled back and could hear again. Day 7 & 8, just like day 6.

I pulled off the cover thinking spiders in the tube (as this unit was the odd man out with the flea collar for spiders treatment which seems to be working fine for the refer and WH) and remembered why I didn't have the flea collar there. Certainly a few dust bunnies from the dogs but no ignition tube in sight. Seems to be a sealed unit. Couldn't locate the manual but the install guide diagram seems to indicate it's well back behind the tin.

I had saved this link and tried Andrew Thomson's post #12

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f516...on-145370.html

no perceptible drop in flame on the cook top so (presuming the tube is sealed and therefore no spiders) it's the board.

I didn't put a meter on the blue wires which I suspected being the leads to the ignitor as the HP was working and we were well into the wine tasting. I'll deal with this later. My 2 years is May 2017 so should be a warranty issue but thought I'd do a little digging/education pre dealer discussion

Anybody had a similar failed to light experience or was actually to locate and clean the tube?

Bob

[OTRA15]

Welcome back! Looking forward to trip photos.

Assuming other propane functions were OK [cooktop, oven and water heater], and battery voltage was OK, the lack of a click click click may indicate a loose connection or bad contact someplace between the 12-volt panel and the furnace igniter IMO. I would remove and clean all visible wiring contacts, and maybe at the panel too. Checking the voltage at each would help as well.

In our old 25' years ago, the furnace circuit board went bad, and after ruling out other possible problems (as above) we replaced the board and all was fine. There are a couple of threads here on bad furnace circuit boards as I recall. Your board is not too young to "retire" prematurely, especially with the NW hot/cold wet/dry cycles.

On the East Coast, our new tow vehicle is due in 2-3 weeks, and we are supposed to have only one hard frost tonight, then off to the Spring races. Will open up the FC20 soon, to see if all the systems made it through the winter. Can't tow it anywhere, but sitting in the back yard is A-OK for now! Great to have Daylight Savings Time and the evening light back again.

Cheers,

Peter

[CruizinDux]

Originally Posted by OTRA15

Welcome back! Looking forward to trip photos.

Assuming other propane functions were OK [cooktop, oven and water heater], and battery voltage was OK, the lack of a click click click may indicate a loose connection or bad contact someplace between the 12-volt panel and the furnace igniter IMO. I would remove and clean all visible wiring contacts, and maybe at the panel too. Checking the voltage at each would help as well.

In our old 25' years ago, the furnace circuit board went bad, and after ruling out other possible problems (as above) we replaced the board and all was fine. There are a couple of threads here on bad furnace circuit boards as I recall. Your board is not too young to "retire" prematurely, especially with the NW hot/cold wet/dry cycles.

On the East Coast, our new tow vehicle is due in 2-3 weeks, and we are supposed to have only one hard frost tonight, then off to the Spring races. Will open up the FC20 soon, to see if all the systems made it through the winter. Can't tow it anywhere, but sitting in the back yard is A-OK for now! Great to have Daylight Savings Time and the evening light back again.

Cheers,

Peter

Thanks Peter. Good advice. I'll think I'll head out to Blue tomorrow and take the meter. Good tip on the check connections.

The confusing things is the no start, reboot, start procedure got 6 days....then nothing. If things were loose probably it would have not made it to day 6. Also looking closely the Technical Installation Manual (which I presume is THE manual) it is an ignition and no tube, unlike the WH/Refer systems...ruling out spiders.

Also I presume both at the website and a good google search only turn u the Install Manual, that there isn't a users manual.

Yes pic etc to follow on the trip. Terrible wi-fi on the road so I saved it until I returned.

Had a great time and met that Zinfandel fella face to face ; )


So in the mean time until your TV arrives, fire up the barbie and turn on the tunes (just to make sure the stereo works) and enjoy the sunshine.

Bob

[OTRA15]

That's the plan, thanks!