20-footers

[CruizinDux]

Originally Posted by subfan1

Were you referring to the mod on my BBQ grill? If so, I bought the part at a local hardware store. I removed the regulator and installed the 1/8 inch nipple in its place.

Subfan1, what sticks in my head was a picture in this thread, which showed an upgraded CW connection. I can't remember if it was just the cap/male, the female connection or what. I just remember thinking what a nice upgrade.

In light of Steve's failure of the kitchen exhaust, I am rethinking all the exterior connection points...CW, BW flush, SP, ext shower cover and now kitchen exhaust.

I'll check out the AS website.

Thanks for the tip.

Bob

[OTRA15]

I just noticed this post on another thread. Has anyone here experienced any leaks like this from the A/C? [text is edited per notes below]

Thanks,

Peter

Originally Posted by CanonFan

My wife and I are sooo disappointed. We've been looking at travel trailers for quite some time now. Kept coming back to Airstream as the brand we need, primarily due to the lowest VOCs of any of them on the market. Then, we kept trying to decide which size. Changed our minds several times. Finally decided
[edit]
the Flying Cloud 20 was just the right size for the two of us.
[edit]
So, we went in to our dealer this morning for the walk-through. We had a great gentleman providing the orientation and provided some very helpful tips. Things were looking and feeling great. About 1 1/2 hours into the orientation we experienced a flood of water pouring out of one of the A/C air in-take registers. There must have been about 1/2 gallon of water pour out before the technician turned off the A/C. Water also oozed out of one of the panel seams - so we are certain water got into the sidewall and soaked the insulation. As a result, we decided to NOT take delivery and are now trying to decide what we should do. Right now we are terribly disappointed and disillusioned.

[OTRA15]

Originally Posted by CanonFan

OTRA15 - Thank you very much! This is very helpful indeed. It is very kind of you to take time out of your schedule to get those measurements for me. We had identified some packages of frozen meat and vegetable that we thought we would need on a "typical" trip (for us) and measured the dimensions. What we calculated 'almost' fits within the dimensions you have me. So, with a little modification and or adjustments, we very well may be able to make it work!

Thanks again!

I just noticed your post about the FC20 A/C water leaks on another thread. Did the dealer ever figure out what the problem was, if you know? [see quote in previous post]

Also what model year was the FC20 you were considering?

Thanks,

Peter

[OTRA15]

For everyone's information, CanonFan has reported that the FC20 with the A/C leaks is a 2016 model, so hopefully this defect was not part of the earlier model years. Hope to check mine over the weekend.

Originally Posted by CanonFan

OTRA15 - This is a new 2016 model. Manufacture date is January 2016.

[centennialman]

I have a new 2016 and have only run the air conditioning briefly once. The dealer in Tucson ran it quite a bit the day I picked it up and I assume ran it before then as well.....so far, no problems.

[renderit]

I would really be surprised if that leak is not a cut tube that runs inside the wall. Plastic tube + raw sheet metal edges = leaks...

[OTRA15]

Thanks renderit, do you know which way the drain tubes goes, before it exits in a wheel well as I understand it? When the AC is running a lot, I assume a puddle of condensate forms on the ground someplace. Is the puddle location uniform for all of us?

Thanks,

Peter

[knunut]

On my 07 the drain tube comes out in the rear top area of the wheel well. Dinette side. If drain is clear a puddle should form by left wheel. If this drain is clogged it will back up .And drain thru ac unit inside. Heard two version's to clear. Blow line out or vacuum out. Vac is suppose to be safer. Blowing line out can cause disconnect somewhere in wall? Maybe a bug or dirt clogged it near the end and just flexing it will clear it. Should be able to feel the water at end.

[OTRA15]

Thanks knunut, I will check it out when I get to a 30 Amp service.

[centennialman]

On my 2016 it drips down on the street side tire.

[Reay]

Does anyone else have a squeak in the floor - near the bath door?
And what can you do to mitigate it?

Thanks TR

[renderit]

Originally Posted by OTRA15

Thanks renderit, do you know which way the drain tubes goes, before it exits in a wheel well as I understand it? When the AC is running a lot, I assume a puddle of condensate forms on the ground someplace. Is the puddle location uniform for all of us?

Thanks,

Peter

I have a 2015 and I think it comes out behind the tire on the street side, but I will check today if I get time.

HELP!

I have literally searched my sorry butt to death trying to find out 2 things that ought to be easy to find.

2015 - 20' Flying Cloud

1) Are the brake drums 10" or 12"?

2) What are all the numbers for the Timkin or some referenceable bearings and races (inside and outside) AND THE GREASE SEAL.

I AM NOT BEING LAZY!

I can find info but cannot trace it back to my model, much less date.
I called my dealer wanting to buy a spare set of Airstream seals and bearings to have as spares AND THEY SAID THEY DON'T KNOW!

I called Airstream and they nicely said that it was 12" brakes (which I don't see how as the eyeballed with tire mounted is closer to 11") and they sent me info with numbers for both 10 and 12 and sent a separate document to show the grease seal (because they said the other document was wrong!) which you cannot ascertain which it is (10 or 12) because the number does not match anything on the other two!

I am preparing to put on my new 16" wheels and want to lube the bearings. I know I will at least need the grease seal. I don't wish to leave the darn thing up in the air while I run all over trying to find out something which ought to be easy to find! It would be nice if this forum had a by model by year listings of parts. Searching this thread much less the site is the most frustrating thing I have done in a long time...



P.S. I may be stupid on how I search. If you locate this by search let me know HOW you did it please! I hate having to beg for info....

P.P.S. Is there a size on that cotter pin as well?

[chevl66]

YES! It's like a part of the floor didn't get sucked down with a screw or something!

[chevl66]

Didn't know what else to call it ... the strip of wood on each side of the benches to hold the table top.

One side broke when I had kids sleeping on the bed. Dealer fixed under warranty. Just after warranty expired (last Sunday) the same one broke off. As I'm looking at it, I realize it's 2 screws holding the wood up.

Good fixes for this? I don't really want to just screw it back up and keep having this happen.

[rmkrum]

I would call it a 'cleat' for lack of a better term.

Did the piece of wood break apart, or just come off?

My fix would be a wider piece of wood if possible, if not, use stronger wood like maple or oak instead of pine, and use more screws. You don't want to glue it because if it is damaged again you will have a bear of a time removing the remains for the next replacement. Glue would be a last resort.


Sent from my pocket Internet using Airstream Forums

[chevl66]

Originally Posted by rmkrum

I would call it a 'cleat' for lack of a better term.

Did the piece of wood break apart, or just come off?

My fix would be a wider piece of wood if possible, if not, use stronger wood like maple or oak instead of pine, and use more screws. You don't want to glue it because if it is damaged again you will have a bear of a time removing the remains for the next replacement. Glue would be a last resort.


Sent from my pocket Internet using Airstream Forums

The wood strip is fine. The screws literally broke in half. Once I'm able to get the half of the screws out, I was going to put heavier screws or bolts in and am considering using Lock-tite with the screws.

Can't glue to the side of the bench anyway, my benches are fabric covered.

I'm sure I am not the first person with this issue - just trying to see what others have done for a permanent fix.

[OTRA15]

I haven't look yet, but can't these dinette bed platform cleats be through-bolted into the vertical plywood faces under the front edges of the dinette seating? At least at the "hall" end of each cleat near the fridge, where each bench seat has an access panel on top of the plywood base?

If it is not possible to bolt the far ends of the cleats at the exterior street-side wall, having one end through-bolted with 2-3 bolts each should prevent the screws near the wall from tearing out IMO, as the bulk of the impact weight from above is when someone sits on the edge of "the bed" and rolls onto the flat to sleep.

There may be more cleats inside the dinette plywood base (to anchor the top ply to the face ply maybe?), but this possible interference can be overcome by adding small blocks if necessary to give the new hidden washers and nuts a place to "land" on new longer bolts.
[Edit -- if the new through-bolts want to hit solid ply material up at that height above the floor, maybe use longer screws, or even angle the through bolts down so that the backing washers/nuts can have a place to land cleanly? No harm in an angled bolt setup, if it is permanent. Use flat or oval head bolts, and countersink them slightly in the face of the cleat? No one would ever notice esp. for oval heads IMO.]

Will look later today, plus check out floor squeak.

Peter

PS -- Thanks renderit for the A/C drip feedback. Can't help with your specific questions, sorry. As to searching, see Post #9 in this thread FYI:

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f138...es-145169.html

[waldosgone]

Quick question after our first "boon docking" experience in a Walmart parking lot last night. When traveling do you leave the camper in use or store mode? We don't have solar and would just want to charge the batteries, a little, from the TV. We stopped last night and were automatically at 10.5 on the stock battery and tank monitor.

[TCwheels]

We don't use "store" mode while traveling. Our interior 12v applications are disconnected in "store" mode. No lights, no pump, no fans, etc.

[OTRA15]

Originally Posted by waldosgone

Quick question after our first "boon docking" experience in a Walmart parking lot last night. When traveling do you leave the camper in use or store mode? We don't have solar and would just want to charge the batteries, a little, from the TV. We stopped last night and were automatically at 10.5 on the stock battery and tank monitor.

I would leave it in Use mode, but definitely disconnect the trailer from the tow vehicle overnight. I am surprised that your batteries got that low during a single overnight stop at Walmart (if I am reading you right). [edit see below, are the batteries damaged?]

Were you in Store mode when you were on the road? If so it is possible that you defeated the 12 volt charge from the tow vehicle, but don't quote me. If you have a voltage tester incl. 12v, you should also check that the tow vehicle is sending a charge from its female plug at the back of your TV.

The user "lewster" here and others know more about this, but I think that AS's electric schematics are a bit inconsistent over the years. You might check your owner's manual if that got packed before you left.

Hope you are having fun!

Peter

PS -- I forget if these are your new OEM batteries? If so they may have been damaged before you bought the trailer, and I would recommend a stop at an AS dealer service shop if you can work it in to your itinerary. If you need dealer location R&D done let us know. You may be entitled to a new set of batteries under your warranty, and Canada is probably not the best place to pursue this.