20-footers

[lynnsr]

Originally Posted by Por Sonia

Echoing the last few comments about using propane for the fridge. The new owner of our 2014 FC20 is doing fine with this system, and all the trailer's systems came back online, I am happy to say. Nice to have found a good home for our trailer, and a new very happy owner!

Cheers,

Peter

Peter
It's good to see you're still keeping up with and enjoying the blog. Have a great day
Lynn

[Por Sonia]

Thanks Lynn . . . still think about the FC20 a lot . . .

[Dennis C]

Originally Posted by Native143

I don't consider the "Old style" absorption fridge a minus. Using propane rather than using up your battery is a plus. In addition, the propane keeps it cold during travel, whereas the 12V does not do the job very well.

I also agree. It’s nice to be able to use propane for the fridge when boondocking, and our absorption fridge works very well. It easily makes ice cubes and it keeps everything nice and cold.

[PapaPepper]

I love having propane as an option - in cold weather. In hot weather the propane also heats the cabinet it’s installed in to a very high temperature. Maybe only on top but it acts to heat the coach a bit.

I helped a friend for a rotisserie rebuild of a 69 Airstream land yacht and his cabinet has a vent the exhausts externally high in the coach. Hi cabinet next gets hot while operating propane.

I would have thought cabinet heating would be less an issue in my coach but AS didn’t quiet put the vent high enough to make natural venting possible. I believe they realized this and installed a flashing to help direct the heat - but they didn’t do that very well either.

Has anyone noticed this issue or figured a solution? Thank you!

[lynnsr]

Originally Posted by Dennis C

I also agree. It’s nice to be able to use propane for the fridge when boondocking, and our absorption fridge works very well. It easily makes ice cubes and it keeps everything nice and cold.

I completely agree, I've never had a glitch

LynnSr

[CruizinDux]

This thread has a lot of contributors but it walks you thru my refer challenges.

https://www.airforums.com/forums/f42...m_medium=email


https://www.airforums.com/forums/f42...ht-234310.html


Certainly the lack of insulation by JC on top of the refer is not to Dometic spec, but they left absolutely no room for the air to properly circulate thru the condensing fins without a mechanical advantage. I even removed the rubber edge guard to gain a bit of air flow room at the condensing fins. The opening is simply too low.

A you can see I added some metal flashing slipped up between the condensing fins to prevent warm air circulating above the refer.

The other difference in the 20 to other's is the depth of the exterior cabinet (from the finned door to the back of the refer). There is barely enough room for a 120x120 fan between the fins and the door.

I have basically finished the deflector from the cardboard mock-up to a 2 part metal to close it off. The lower part is easily removable to access wiring, stats etc.

I added a 3rd smaller horizontal fan on a separate switch to help push air up but believe it only marginally helps. It's IMO really about sealing out the top and controlling the air that is sucked over and out at the fins.

BTW my refer drain hose was very brittle (heat in the refer compartment??) so swapped it out for some 1/2 ID clear poly. I left a bit of a belly in the line that collects water so that warm air doesn't make it's way back into the compartment


Other projects
replaced the deteriorated FW spigot, finally did the door handle mod.


Happy trails everyone

[CruizinDux]

Originally Posted by PapaPepper

....

I would have thought cabinet heating would be less an issue in my coach but AS didn’t quiet put the vent high enough to make natural venting possible. I believe they realized this and installed a flashing to help direct the heat - but they didn’t do that very well either.

Has anyone noticed this issue or figured a solution? Thank you!

PapaPepper, interesting your 13' had some flashing but our 14' didn't. I'll add that we had some floor work done at JC and they had to remove the refer/cabinet so maybe didn't put it back together as OEM.



Are you talking about the horizontal diverter near the AC outlet. If elsewhere, can you post a pic of your flashing?


Also I don't ever remember a warm cabin top or otherwise, until our Paso Robles trip when either the stat or the trip failed and the 2 fans stopped...at which time the cabinet top heat was obvious to the touch which was my heads up. I've since gone with two wireless thermo's , freezer and refer for now but after testing, refer main and exterior compartment near the condensing fan stat.

[Native143]

I hope somebody here can give me some enlightenment. I just had both wheels repaired in December with new brake assemblies, wheel bearings, drums, etc. I have only put about 4000 miles on them since. I smelled something burning after my last trip like brakes, took to the RV dealer, and they said my brakes are totally worn out and all the same parts have to be replaced. I asked why since you checked them in March to be sure they were working correctly and they were fine and I’ve only put a couple thousand miles on since then. And they say it might be my brake controller that caused it. Seriously? brakes should last a heck of a lot longer that this! Like 10,000+ miles as they had before! Any ideas what could have caused this? Thanks.

[Malia20]

Wow, 4K miles is not right. I had 15K on mine when I had them checked, all was well and I am now at 22K.
If you smelled burning form the wheel then it would seem something was dragging. Both wheels or just one? It is impossible to tell if they were installed wrong (I'd watch them this time, of find someone else), or did something (ie a retention spring) give out. And as they say, it could be the controller or the emergency brake-away switch. Either could have activated the brakes. Seems like a check of the wires should tell if it is an electrical problem or not.
Good luck determining the issue.
Fred

[CruizinDux]

Hey Native, my first reaction.. same parts worn?? did they give you the old parts? almost sounds like the svc dept got their wires crossed. maybe ask for more details like time cards. maybe ask to talk to the mechanic?

self adjusting brakes should not tighten up and as i understand it, braking while backing-up is the tightening method.

as above, check the breakaway ( tho as i understand it, they're either off ir on and basically locked up. and i would also check the power/gain settings. Maybe they inadvertently altered the settings? We have same TT & TV and my brake controller is a p3 Tekanosha. my power varies 9.5-9.7. i can read the controller with out being hooked up. my boost varies from off to B1. I'll attach the manual on the laptop. Currently it's at B1.


Personally I would talk to the GM at the dealer. I would also look for alternative, preferably one on the Dexter factory trained list. I didn't see one here but maybe call https://www.dexteraxle.com/ Maybe call a Napa Auto and ask for a referral to a brake shop locally they do a lot of business with or one that specializes in trailers.


Good luck and let us know how this works out.


p.s. here is a brake controller thread started by another 20' owner. Note trailer being equal, TV are not re settings for power and boost.


https://www.airforums.com/forums/f23...gs-201199.html

[Native143]

I have a Tenkosha controler but have to do it by feel, no readouts. Andy at CanAm set it up originally and I adjust them as needed. Also I when they first installed the brakes in Dec. they felt fine and no smell. Also took it in for a checkup in March after 1000+ miles for adjustment. It just happened on the last trip as the smell is on the left so driver side. That's how I smelled it. It is back in the shop now and I will be there to question them on all this next week. If it is controller how do you check that when not hooked up? And it is not the break away switch otherwise it would be braking. Right?

[CruizinDux]

Native143, upgrade the the P3. nominal cost and should be a straight plug in, do settings, test drive. I had the old one for previous TV and TT. P3 you don't have to set level and the power settings are easier. Just go thru the process in the manual.

break away, as i understand it, all on and locked up, or all off.

as for testing the controller in the drive way you'll need a meter and someone to depress the brake, plus a plug diagram. you're measuring dc voltage, but not sure what levels of lack thereof, tho they should be the same/close. Actually check at the plug with ignition on in most cases. i suppose one side could a short and be on without pedal being depresses...hence one brake on with the foot on the gas not the brake.


Personally and i have a pretty good working knowledge of ac (especially)/dc but no formal training and degree is elsewhere, but would likely do diagnosis if stranded otr. otherwise leave it to good shop. brakes are brakes and for those who feel comfortable can do. It's been 50 years when my summer job was brakes on the family boat trailer.



hope this helps.
b


https://www.airforums.com/forums/f44...ml#post2479869 (Thanks to Bob Cross)


There are some great electricians that regularly post here so maybe they'll chime in and offer more than I can.

[Por Sonia]

Originally Posted by Por Sonia

Echoing the last few comments about using propane for the fridge. The new owner of our 2014 FC20 is doing fine with this system, and all the trailer's systems came back online, I am happy to say. Nice to have found a good home for our trailer, and a new very happy owner!

Cheers,

Peter

To update everyone on this "home thread" [for me at least]. Recent health developments have led to the decision to sell our van tow vehicle, sorry to say.

Thank you for the great camaraderie, feedback and suggestions, since 2015!

Peter

[subfan1]

Originally Posted by Por Sonia

To update everyone on this "home thread" [for me at least]. Recent health developments have led to the decision to sell our van tow vehicle, sorry to say.

Thank you for the great camaraderie, feedback and suggestions, since 2015!

Peter

Sorry to hear this Peter. Wishing you all the best.
Jose

[Por Sonia]

Thank you Jose.

Peter

[rich.dev]

Originally Posted by miamipanther

For the battery bank, we decide to DIY since we want to fit the highest possible capacity of the battery with least weight in the left storage compartment under the bed, We ended up fit surge protector, 460AH battery, inverters/charger, power distributor, Cerbo GX all there.

One challenge is to find good quality of battery pack from a reliable source. We scored our battery 8*230AH from docanpower, the ship is fast, and the battery are all matched cells with a bit higher than claimed capacity. I have been testing the system in past month during our dry camping trips, the system performed flawless, we also intentionly exceeds the limits and protections will be triggered as expected, we can run any major appliance any time: AC, Heater, stove, induction cooker, ricer cooker, coffee maker etc; And multiple appliance with some power setting management;

The solar can charge from 0.5KW(whole raining day), and 2.8KW on a sunny day.

I designed the battery box with plywoods board, the size just fit the compartment tightly, no more space to spare. I also install two heat pads on the bottom of box, covered with aluminum plate to distribute heat evenly and then covered another plastic layer for insulation. The BMS has low temperature protection and will turn on the heat port while charging applied, and turn off the heating and start to charge again while desired temperature reached.

Very impressive, where did you buy the heat pads and what BMS did you use, can you post a link please? Thanks

[miamipanther]

Originally Posted by rich.dev

Very impressive, where did you buy the heat pads and what BMS did you use, can you post a link please? Thanks

We got both from Aliexpress:

JBD Smart BMS 4S Lifepo4 200A Free Bluetooth Heating Function, there are different versions, make sure choose the one with "H" in the title

12V 12W 12x10cm Heater Parts Hive Electric Heater

I have tested various conditions of this BMS with heating functions, it performs very well by spec. But some people said it can't drive heater pad if more than 40w-60w, thus I only hook two 12w heater pads; During my test, it draws about 20-24w while low temperature is triggered.

[Saluda372]

Originally Posted by Por Sonia

To update everyone on this "home thread" [for me at least]. Recent health developments have led to the decision to sell our van tow vehicle, sorry to say.

Peter

Wish you the best.

[rich.dev]

Originally Posted by miamipanther

We got both from Aliexpress:

JBD Smart BMS 4S Lifepo4 200A Free Bluetooth Heating Function, there are different versions, make sure choose the one with "H" in the title

12V 12W 12x10cm Heater Parts Hive Electric Heater

I have tested various conditions of this BMS with heating functions, it performs very well by spec. But some people said it can't drive heater pad if more than 40w-60w, thus I only hook two 12w heater pads; During my test, it draws about 20-24w while low temperature is triggered.

Thanks, I see Docan also sells a BMS and you bought the battery cells from them, any reason you didn’t buy the BMS from them?

[Por Sonia]

Originally Posted by Saluda372

Wish you the best.

Thank you.

Peter