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alreardon · 07-07-2020, 06:36 AM

No! This is very dangerous cord can over heat and start a fire.

OTRA15 · 07-09-2020, 05:05 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by alreardon

Has anyone had problems with water not draining in bathroom. I don't have any trouble with kitchen.

Can I use DrainO? Or other drain opening product?

Quote:

Originally Posted by Camano20

Quick question. Does anyone run their air conditioner from a 12 gauge extension cord on a 15 amp circuit? I need to verify if my unit is working properly
Thanks
Jerry

Wondering if these matters are resolved?

Thanks,

Camano20 · 07-09-2020, 11:55 PM

I ran the air conditioner yesterday and it seems to be working ok, though it is hard to tell the temps here have not been out of the low 60's.

OTRA15 · 07-10-2020, 02:01 AM

Thanks for the update. That #12 wire setup is only suitable for a temporary short-term test IMO.

centennialman · 07-10-2020, 11:35 AM

Some of you may remember (from my posts way back in this thread somewhere) the problems I have had with my Atwood water heater since purchasing my Airstream new in 2016. I had tried everything except a new board.

I bought the Dinosaur board a few weeks ago and installed it this morning. The heater fired right up and has been cycling just fine all morning long......problem solved. I couldn't get Atwood, the local Airstream dealer, Airstream corporate or an independent repair company to fix it right. I went through the warranty, and also paid $$$ out of my own pocket over the past 4 years to make it work right. The Dinosaur board seems to be the answer after all of this.

It's such a relief to know that it works fine on both gas and electric now. Just wanted to share. I had heard about how the Dinosaur boards were the way to go and now they have another dedicated "convert" to their product.

alreardon · 07-11-2020, 07:16 AM

The bathroom lights, one over the kitchen sink and over the dinette don’t work.

I have replaced the circuit #1

My trailer is a 2014 Flying Cloud.

Thanks for any suggestions.
Alison

MaineStreamer · 07-11-2020, 10:46 PM

Have you tried putting in bulbs that work in other fixtures?

OTRA15 · 07-12-2020, 12:28 AM

Nice new trailer name, Marty!

CruizinDux · 07-12-2020, 07:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by centennialman

Some of you may remember (from my posts way back in this thread somewhere) the problems I have had with my Atwood water heater since purchasing my Airstream new in 2016. I had tried everything except a new board.

I bought the Dinosaur board a few weeks ago and installed it this morning. The heater fired right up and has been cycling just fine all morning long......problem solved. I couldn't get Atwood, the local Airstream dealer, Airstream corporate or an independent repair company to fix it right. I went through the warranty, and also paid $$$ out of my own pocket over the past 4 years to make it work right. The Dinosaur board seems to be the answer after all of this.

It's such a relief to know that it works fine on both gas and electric now. Just wanted to share. I had heard about how the Dinosaur boards were the way to go and now they have another dedicated "convert" to their product.

Steve Knocking on wood here but good to know there is a 20'r resource. Congrats on the HW.
vb

CruizinDux · 07-12-2020, 07:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by alreardon

The bathroom lights, one over the kitchen sink and over the dinette don’t work.

I have replaced the circuit #1

My trailer is a 2014 Flying Cloud.

Thanks for any suggestions.
Alison

Following...
b

CruizinDux · 07-12-2020, 07:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by alreardon

The bathroom lights, one over the kitchen sink and over the dinette don’t work.

I have replaced the circuit #1

My trailer is a 2014 Flying Cloud.

Thanks for any suggestions.
Alison

Alison I have had intermittent issues on the light left of hood hood fan. Played wuth the bulbs in the socket and it worked. Then in last 2 mo trip, it was dim. Good idea from Marty. Just moved to MO, but planned to get back to the rig with a meter. I suspect the lamp or fixture as fixtures on the same circuit are good.I

If you don't have the ele etc schemafics, jc can send them or pm me with yiur email abd i'll fwd.

Bob

alreardon · 07-13-2020, 05:23 AM

My email is: Alison.ReardonDC@gmail.com

Thx for your help

Native143 · 07-13-2020, 09:11 AM

Alison. My wiring was loose so that would happen intermittently. Check connection

OTRA15 · 07-25-2020, 10:03 AM

I was getting ready for a brief local trip, and wanted to clean out the aerator in the bathroom vanity faucet. Recalled it being just finger-tight, but it did not budge.

Out came the Vise-grips -- and the top mechanic from Fred Flintstone Plumbing, Inc. -- followed quickly by the destruction of the faucet. Even on the bench, I could not get the aerator out. It seems to be corroded in place.

Recommend frequent removal and cleaning of all aerators. [ 2?

] A little grease or Lock-ease on the threads would probably help too.

Anyone out camping?

Have a good weekend.

OTRA15 · 07-25-2020, 10:14 AM

PS -- The plastic vacuum-breaker anti-siphon valve, for the black tank flush system, is just to the left of the H/C supply lines, hidden behind the back edge of the vanity's white side case. The dinette's rear bench seat fabric visible too. There's the next project, now that I see how easy it would be , after that rear dinette bench seat is removed, to swap out that VBASV for the brass version sent by the dealer under warranty. [years ago . . . .

. . . ]

CruizinDux · 07-26-2020, 04:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by OTRA15

I was getting ready for a brief local trip, and wanted to clean out the aerator in the bathroom vanity faucet. Recalled it being just finger-tight, but it did not budge.

Out came the Vise-grips -- and the top mechanic from Fred Flintstone Plumbing, Inc. -- followed quickly by the destruction of the faucet. Even on the bench, I could not get the aerator out. It seems to be corroded in place.

Recommend frequent removal and cleaning of all aerators. [ 2?

] A little grease or Lock-ease on the threads would probably help too.

Anyone out camping?

Have a good weekend.

Peter to quote a HS hip English teacher's go to phrase....Badzo. That is a bummer. I've had all of ours off, generally at winterization, but knock on wood.

as for the BW BF & CV FWIW, I went in thru the panel, but then again my equal goal was to create a path for warm air to reach this void behind the alu cover. Not an easy cut but (IMO) easier than reaching in from the back. Everything was right there. Note however, due to the larger size of the brass CV, I was not able to strap the pex down so Zipped it to the ABS vent. Where I'm heading is AS now offers a brass unit but half the size and closer to the PoC OEM unit. I saw it at the local/EUG when I was looking for a new BW ext connection (finally bought at WM). S omething to think about as the size may allow easier to strap since the head is much smaller and not so proud of the interior skin.

One thing to consider is a new FW SS connection as the new FW connections now spec that so vibration and weight do not cause the FW housing to crack. I tried and was not from my angle able to make the connection. If I ever revisit, I'll get a short section made as others have looped it and I think that would be a winterization issue. There is a thread on this that I subscribed to. I'll dig if you're interested.

Good luck. For now we're still dealing with the new house stuff so camping is DTR. Tho thinking of the bourbon trail as I have kin 3-4 gen's back there and would like to check that out.

WashMoBob

OTRA15 · 07-26-2020, 04:36 PM

Thanks Bob, that Bourbon Trail adventure has always sounded interesting!

Will update when [if?] I ever remove the dinette seat for a better look at that plastic valve.

Good luck getting settled into your new home . . . a perfect project for these days!

OTRA15 · 07-27-2020, 01:25 PM

Update --

I removed the dinette rear seat this morning, and got the lay of the land. Attached are some shots starting with the wide view and the VBASV hidden way in the back. Great move you made last year -- to cut a hole in the vertical case under the sink.

Quote:

Originally Posted by CruizinDux

. . .
. . . I went in thru the panel, but then again my equal goal was to create a path for warm air to reach this void behind the alu cover.
. . .

[7/13/19 Post #2625 -- click on orange arrow to go directly there]

Quote:

Originally Posted by CruizinDux

I should say that I started this project with two goals; to replace the VacBr and provide for better warm air circulation opportunities. While I fully expected that I would need to remove the dinette, the path thru the cabinet would solve the second goal too. As such that is where I started.
. . .

Found an American Standard faucet [2175502.002] to replace the expensive Moen we have. [which was out of stock at the AS supply house] It also has a pop-up operable stopper, which I plan to swap in. Didn't someone here complain about stopper problems with our OEM Moen?

I also cut down the plywood back of the vanity case [that dark Luan plywood in Photo #1], because it hid the supply ends of the braided SS faucet connectors/risers. Why bury those connections in a hidden spot?

[Photo #4 shows old connectors lying loosely in new clear opening to new accumulator space TBD]

The new faucet needs longer risers, so I got some extras, in order to install an air accumulator under the sink in the cold line. Very easy access for winterizing, and it does not really need to be at the pump IMO.

A quick question, Bob, if that exterior shower white plastic box could be removed [by detaching the H/C supply lines], would that be enough room to swap out the VB? I like your access room, but it is more work. Now that I can see the VB well, I will hook up the city water and see if it still leaks first.

Thanks.

Malia20 · 07-27-2020, 02:30 PM

I removed the dinette rear seat this morning...

Peter,
Any tricks to getting that seat out? I've always wanted to look back there and see what's up.
Thanks.
Fred

OTRA15 · 07-27-2020, 03:08 PM

Pretty straightforward . . . it is just screwed in . . . with lots of soft steel or aluminum screws. If you use a power screwdriver/drill to remove the screws, recommend that your Phillips tip is very new, that you align the tool carefully [straight in line with the screw's shaft], and that you set the clutch on the drill to low.

The screws are in such difficult spots, that they would be very hard to remove later [Vise-grips etc.] if you strip out the Phillips heads at all. I will probably switch to black steel drywall screws for re-assembly. Grrrr . . . for AS using such cheap metal in these very important fasteners!

I had to remove the fixed plywood top on the seat [not the hinged part] to get access to the some of the 1x1 cleats at the floor. There are colored screws through the fabric back of the dinette, up high near the Velco pads, and some long screws horizontally through a horizontal1x2 at the street-side aluminum interior skin.

Go slow . . . if the entire seat does not move easily, there is probably a screw or two not loose yet . . .

I also plan to drill larger diameter holes in the various cleats etc., so that the screws do not bind as they go in the fixed piece, and are free to "suck" the seat into place. Another "Grrr" moment for anyone who simply drives these screws through wood that has not been pre-drilled correctly. Don't get me going . . .

Good luck, Fred.