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Old 06-06-2019, 02:59 PM   #1
1 Rivet Member
 
2017 30' Classic
Mansfield , Texas
Join Date: Feb 2017
Posts: 15
Replacement Convertor 2017 30' Classic

My convertor has failed again! Third convertor to fail since new. Seems each year it fails while we are on a camping trip. Each of the previous convertors has been replaced with an identical unit under warranty. I tried to get the last one upgraded to a "better" unit, offering to pay the difference between the OEM and it's replacement. Now the TT is covered by the "forever warranty", but I really don't want to install another OEM unit.
Can anyone tell me the name and model # of a suitable replacement? Also if there are any wiring or mounting issues?
Thank you.
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Old 06-06-2019, 03:02 PM   #2
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2007 22' International CCD
Corona , California
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Discuss with Randy at ‘bestconverters.com
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Old 06-06-2019, 03:06 PM   #3
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2002 30' Classic S/O
Fleming Island , Florida
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What Rich said.

Al
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Old 06-06-2019, 03:37 PM   #4
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2003 25' Classic
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What Rich & Al said...🤓
I wouldn't expect 'forever' to pay for it though...🥴

Bob
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Old 06-06-2019, 04:20 PM   #5
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2014 25' FB Flying Cloud
Prescott , Arizona
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Another thumbs up on the Best Converter suggestion.
I ordered my Progressive Dynamics unit from Randy earlier this week.
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Old 06-07-2019, 10:21 AM   #6
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2015 27' Flying Cloud
Conroe , Texas
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Yep - Randy
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Old 06-07-2019, 10:31 AM   #7
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2017 30' Classic
2022 Interstate 24X
Carlisle , Pennsylvania
Join Date: May 2017
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Hi

I'm not going to defend the stock converter as a wonderful thing. However, three failing in as many years is *not* what one would expect. I'm wondering if you are doing something that "encourages" them to fail. If so, even a new converter isn't going to fix the problem.

More or less:

1) An EMS is pretty much mandatory in terms of hooking up an RV these days. Without one you can indeed loose a lot more than just a converter.

2) Hookup and un-hook procedures *do* matter. The breaker on the box should *always* be in the OFF position any time anything it hooked up or unhooked.

3) Wiring errors do happen. If you always hook up to this or that place (like at a storage unit) ..... hmmm ...... maybe good to check things out.

Yes things light lightning and earthquakes do happen. They aren't likely to hit you once a year.

I replaced both the inverter and the converter in my 2017 with a Victron Mulit Plus 2000. It's done *very* well for me. Not the lowest price option by a long shot. Before I did that, I had issues with multiple converters, both the stock unit and one from elsewhere.

Bob
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Old 06-10-2019, 05:46 PM   #8
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2018 30' Classic
Ivins , Utah
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Replacement Convertor 2017 30' Classic

As part of my 440 AHr battery upgrade, I installed the Boondocker 80 amp version, not totally pleased, as the fan cycles on and off even in float mode with light continuous loads of 5A. I did not notice to stock WFCO converter doing that - its fan would come on while bulk charging only, staying off in float. I may even go back to that one.
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Old 06-10-2019, 06:03 PM   #9
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2017 30' Classic
2022 Interstate 24X
Carlisle , Pennsylvania
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Quote:
Originally Posted by steverino View Post
As part of my 440 AHr battery upgrade, I installed the Boondocker 80 amp version, not totally pleased, as the fan cycles on and off even in float mode with light continuous loads of 5A. I did not notice to stock WFCO converter doing that - its fan would come on while bulk charging only, staying off in float. I may even go back to that one.
Hi

After going through this and that, I now have a Victron Multi 2000 doing the charging and inverter chores. I am *very* happy with it. The others I tried .... not so much.

Bob
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Old 06-10-2019, 06:29 PM   #10
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2018 30' Classic
Ivins , Utah
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Replacement Convertor 2017 30' Classic

Bob, where did you stuff the Victron on your Classic? I’ve already upgraded the cable between converter to battery to 2/0 AWG, so I am good to go. I recall you saying finding space for the Victron was a challenge.
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Old 06-10-2019, 07:18 PM   #11
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2017 30' Classic
2022 Interstate 24X
Carlisle , Pennsylvania
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Quote:
Originally Posted by steverino View Post
Bob, where did you stuff the Victron on your Classic? I’ve already upgraded the cable between converter to battery to 2/0 AWG, so I am good to go. I recall you saying finding space for the Victron was a challenge.
Hi

I put it approximately where the factory inverter used to sit. Since you no longer need a converter / charger, that space is just sitting empty.

A few "minor tweaks" were required:

1) Pull off the shroud on the top of the Multi, it serves no purpose at all when the unit is mounted horizontally. It actually degrades the cooling when mounted flat.

2) Grab a metal blade for your hand held saw and .... yikes ... trim off the "ears" on the case. Yes this likely voids the warranty You are just taking off the external part of the case, so nothing structural or vital goes away. The gotcha is that the case is about 1/4" too tall and 1/2" to long to fit under the tracks the drawer runs on. You aren't shaving much at all off the case.

Once you do all that, it fits just fine under the drawer that's under the microwave. Lots of room to spare ... (at least 0.1") ...

Cable wise, it just uses a single cable pair to the batteries. That frees up space on the DC distribution block under the sofa. AC comes from the same place the old inverter got it.

Control wise, a standard controller will stick to the wall above and to the right of the sink. You can run the whole thing from there.

Bob
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Old 06-10-2019, 07:29 PM   #12
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2018 30' Classic
Ivins , Utah
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Quote:
Originally Posted by uncle_bob View Post

Control wise, a standard controller will stick to the wall above and to the right of the sink. You can run the whole thing from there.



Bob

Cool thanks. Couple more questions

Just so you know - my system includes Victron MPPT 100/50, Victron MPPT control/monitor, and BMV-712.

1. Are you using Firefly to control the inverter section? I would think Firefly’s output is simply a switched pair, but will have to verify. I would rather not add a Victron color control panel or other, to limit the amount of widgets and buttons on the wall gotta take SAF (spousal approval factor) into account. :-). Looking at the manual, looks like an easy job to adapt the firefly inverter control output to the 3-way switch input of the Multiplus.
2. MPPT has a temperature probe installed. Can the multiplus get battery temperature via VE.bus, or do I need to install a 2nd temp sensor?
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Old 06-10-2019, 08:22 PM   #13
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2017 30' Classic
2022 Interstate 24X
Carlisle , Pennsylvania
Join Date: May 2017
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Quote:
Originally Posted by steverino View Post
Cool thanks. Couple more questions

Just so you know - my system includes Victron MPPT 100/50, Victron MPPT control/monitor, and BMV-712.

1. Are you using Firefly to control the inverter section? I would think Firefly’s output is simply a switched pair, but will have to verify. I would rather not add a Victron color control panel or other, to limit the amount of widgets and buttons on the wall gotta take SAF (spousal approval factor) into account. :-). Looking at the manual, looks like an easy job to adapt the firefly inverter control output to the 3-way switch input of the Multiplus.
2. MPPT has a temperature probe installed. Can the multiplus get battery temperature via VE.bus, or do I need to install a 2nd temp sensor?
Hi

I'm running Lithium's so battery temperature .... who cares

The Multi can network with pretty much everything else Victron makes. Not sure if it will use temperature data from "something else" though. It does hard wired networking rather than Bluetooth. You need *wires* to get it to talk to things ....I would be very surprised if it can't use temperature data from another device (like the 712) somehow.

The switch on the multi is a center off SPDT switch. Close one side and you get charge only. Open that side and close the other and you get charge + invert. The Firefly output is SPST. It closes a contact to get the inverter and opens it to not have the inverter. You need one more contact .... A relay would do the trick. No idea if there is a spare wire from the Firefly somewhere. I never got around to tracing out the cable to see if one of the other wires had the needed contact on it.

Bob
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