Re-running an audio wire in the walls

[turk123]

Originally Posted by Gsmblue

Glad you are making progress.

As that is the route you are committing too, maybe this will help as you have 12V power at the sub. You can splice into the existing power and not take up an outlet:

https://www.amazon.com/Converter-Mod.../dp/B00BMIVFK8

That is a good idea. I did have to choose another one though as the one you linked would not make it to me until Jan 30! I also bought a blade fuse holder for it.

Thanks.

[Hein]

Previous suggestion was to combine right and left sub-woofer signals on the good cable. Try one these at each end.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016FCTD3G

Follow up:
Have you checked the function of the Axxes device? Is this the one you have?

https://axxessinterfaces.com/product...gory=AX-ADDAMP

Appears that is being used to convert speaker output signals from the head unit to line level input for the sub amp. It might have failed on one channel or the speaker wires coming to it are open.

All the best,
Hein

[JDG]

Thanks Ernie.
I had the same issue with my Subwoofer (it was powered but no sound). JC only solution was to turn up bass on Polk audio head settings. After removing the cover and adjusting the Freq. and Gain, I now have amazing sound. Attached is also a link to Crutchfield.com that tells how to set the Freq and Gain.

https://www.crutchfield.com/S-XjrFAU...rs/tuning.html

[turk123]

This is the transmitter/receiver I bought to replace the broken audio line in the walls. The output from the Axcess is fine. I just need to get that signal to the sub.

http://www.outlawaudio.com/products/OAW4.html

[turk123]

OK, with one line working I was able to remove the sub from the sofa and open (slides up) the door on the side of the sub. It has the reverse switch, freq, and gain. Did the adjustment per Crutchfield and I have bass!!!!

The one speaker is powering it and that works for now.

Airstream obviously doesn't even look at the sub adjustment. If left as is, you will not have any bass generated by the sub. I will report these findings to Airstream.

[uncle_bob]

Hi

If they actually destroyed one wire behind the walls, they may have nuked something else ....

Bob

[turk123]

Originally Posted by uncle_bob

Hi

If they actually destroyed one wire behind the walls, they may have nuked something else ....

Bob

Well, I have not noticed anything else. The other possibility is the cable was faulty. We will never know.

[uncle_bob]

Originally Posted by turk123

Well, I have not noticed anything else. The other possibility is the cable was faulty. We will never know.

Hi

If it's a faulty cable, then there's about a 90% chance that the fault is in the connectors. Replacing them is very do-able. Wire its self rarely is faulty mid-span (unless it gets smashed).

Bob

[turk123]

Originally Posted by uncle_bob

Hi

If it's a faulty cable, then there's about a 90% chance that the fault is in the connectors. Replacing them is very do-able. Wire its self rarely is faulty mid-span (unless it gets smashed).

Bob

I kind of thought of that, but these are molded cables and usually, they are pretty reliable. They have to be cut off completely to add others. I guess it is worth a try. buy two RCA plugs and soldier on. Can do!

[uncle_bob]

Originally Posted by turk123

I kind of thought of that, but these are molded cables and usually, they are pretty reliable. They have to be cut off completely to add others. I guess it is worth a try. buy two RCA plugs and soldier on. Can do!

Hi

I think it's a long shot, but it is one way to rule this or that out. Once you have the connectors off, you could check things with a meter to save you the time soldering on connectors that would do no good.

Bob

[gator.bigfoot]

Originally Posted by turk123

In another thread, I discussed a problem I had with my Classic 30. The subwoofer audio cable (two RCA jacks) runs through the walls of the trailer to under the center of the sofa where the sub is located. I have power there (12v) but one of the audio lines is broke somewhere in the walls.

How to fix.

AS said the only way they can do it is to remove furniture, the wall window boxes and to peel back the inner aluminum to run a new wire. That sounds drastic. It also sounds like it may create other problems down the line. I talked with Vinnie's AS repair in Sacramento (AS told me to call him) and he said the same thing. Too much to remove for a simple cable. He also is booked into March and cannot help me. AS offered to reimburse me for his work. AS wants me to take it to Scottsdale AZ for them to work on. We had planned on storing our trailer in AZ and drive back to Ohio end of January. We are coming back west in the spring. I was trying to avoid pulling the trailer back to JC in Ohio during the winter.

Is there another solution? Is this really my problem?

You have a brand new AS correct? Is it not covered under warranty? Your in Ohio how far can the factory be?

Personally, I got rid of the sub woofer. Just a power hog when boondocking. I've never missed it.

[turk123]

Originally Posted by gator.bigfoot

You have a brand new AS correct? Is it not covered under warranty? Your in Ohio how far can the factory be?

Personally, I got rid of the sub woofer. Just a power hog when boondocking. I've never missed it.

Well, I'm in California right now. 2500 miles away from Ohio. Yes it is covered by warranty, but to fix it they would have to run a new wire to the sub. It would involve removing all the furniture and tearing into the inner sidewall. How much damage do you think they would do with that approach?

I've found a way to run the signal to the sub wirelessly. No tearing up the interior. No 2500 mile trip to Ohio and then 2500 miles back. And the cost to me - $120 in parts.

What would you do?

[gregwall]

That's just the way it is. We have to learn to fix things. I see it as part of the adventure. OK, how did you connect wirelessly?

[uncle_bob]

Originally Posted by turk123

Well, I'm in California right now. 2500 miles away from Ohio. Yes it is covered by warranty, but to fix it they would have to run a new wire to the sub. It would involve removing all the furniture and tearing into the inner sidewall. How much damage do you think they would do with that approach?

I've found a way to run the signal to the sub wirelessly. No tearing up the interior. No 2500 mile trip to Ohio and then 2500 miles back. And the cost to me - $120 in parts.

What would you do?

Hi

How much damage would they do fixing it at the factory?

Zero damage. There would be nothing to show they had been in there. If anything the service crew is better at building trailers than the folks on the factory floor.

How long would it take?

Probably less than you would think. The sofa / recliner comes out mighty fast. The dinettes probably do, but I've never pulled them out myself. Rivets and sheet aluminum is what those guys do a lot of ....

Now, is it worth a drive to the factory today? Probably not. I'm in the "so what?" on the sub. Put it on a list and plan a trip past Ohio sometime in late summer three years from now. Have them check the roof to see if it needs a strip and re-seal at the same time. If it does, *that* is worth the drive out.

In the mean time, check the wheel hubs for "heat" each time you pull over ...

Bob

[gator.bigfoot]

Originally Posted by turk123

What would you do?

I think I've already answered that in I don't use the sub anyway. But Bob probably answered it best

Personally I would get it fixed even if I don't intend to ever use it. Why? Because I think it affects resale value of the unit. If you were to sell that unit in the future to someone like me and tell me that "oh by the way the sub didn't work, but I found this kludge for it so it works again" alarms bells start going off in my head. I've been in the business long enough to know that one wire issue usually leads to more. I'm not saying it will, but the odds are they will. It is a sign that something is wrong. What can be wrong. Well maybe they forgot to install a grommet in the metal channel it went through or it fell out, perhaps now wires are starting to rub against the frame of the trailer and will short out causing lights to flicker etc and may even result in a fire as reported recently in a brand new unit. Who knows. It may also just be an isolated incidente and the plug just fell apart in the wall (which begs the question why was the plug in the wall?). Hopefully the factory can get to the bottom of it and fix their quality issues and their mistakes. If everyone covers them up for them they will never know or learn.

Yes, I wouldn't necessarily drive back to OHIO right now, but it would be the first thing I do upon my return.

Good luck.

[turk123]

After pulling the sub out and after the suggestion that the cable might run through the Alde radiators, I took a good look under the sofa to see where the wire is routed. There is a big junction box marked "Caution 12v". I can't see to the back of the box but it looks like the sub wire is coming from it or possibly out of the floor with a lot of other wires.

Running back to Ohio does not make any sense for us now. All the items left on our list are documented with customer service at JC. We have three years to get there under warranty.

For the final solution for my subs issue, I went with the Outlaw transmitter/receivers. I temporarily hooked them up and the sub is working fine now. I used Ernie's suggestion to "tune" the sub and it really sounds great! The gain was all the way down, something Airstream should have caught at the factory. Running the sub on only one channel does not sound as good as both fronts (L & R) powering it.

I am using the USB 5v power on the transmitter (that's what they use) and I will be taping into the 12v power of the sub to add a dc reducer that feeds a USB outlet. That will give me power under the sofa. These transmitters use almost nothing so I am not worried.

I still will bring this up with Airstream later on at the factory to see if there is an easy solution to running the wire. If not, I will keep this system.

[AtomicNo13]

Car audio shop... This is what they do.

[uncle_bob]

Hi

The "caution 12V" thing is just a cover over a whole bunch of wiring and the 12V power bus that goes to the battery. Taking a look under it is not that big a deal .... In prior years, trailers came from the factory with no cover like that at all.

Bob

[turk123]

Originally Posted by uncle_bob

Hi

The "caution 12V" thing is just a cover over a whole bunch of wiring and the 12V power bus that goes to the battery. Taking a look under it is not that big a deal .... In prior years, trailers came from the factory with no cover like that at all.

Bob

I wish they would have designed it so you didn't have to take the sofa out to look in it. Does anyone know if there is room to put batteries under there? The mechanics of the recliners are there (not in the center though). I would like to add four lithiums to the trailer one day.

[uncle_bob]

Originally Posted by turk123

I wish they would have designed it so you didn't have to take the sofa out to look in it. Does anyone know if there is room to put batteries under there? The mechanics of the recliners are there (not in the center though). I would like to add four lithiums to the trailer one day.

Hi

Gee.... what an interesting idea

Yes, there is enough room under the center for a pair of BB lithiums. You can also put another pair in the battery box and cable them together. Net result is 400AH of usable capacity with no real loss of space in the trailer.

I pulled the center console and replaced it as part of doing this. That's not strictly needed simply to put the batteries in. I just never could work out a case where somebody would actually be seated in the center. Having more appropriate storage ( = beer can holders / computer storage / camera storage / tablet storage / phone storage) there made a lot of sense. indeed those are listed in order of priority

Bob