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paiceman · 09-30-2016, 10:34 AM

I know what the manual says, however, the factory told me what I posted prior as to the battery disconnect switch, not the dealer.

Yes the dealer sales person went through the entire trailer with us, it was warm so the heat system did not come on. So we let it go. That said, returning to the dealer is at this point not going to happen. We are going to the factory, which is only four hours away and will camp while there.

We had purchased in the past from Colonial and in retrospect should have this time as well, Kevin is tops.

Bud

AIRHEDS · 09-30-2016, 04:46 PM

Hi Bud. I can't wait to hear the outcome of your experience at JC. I trust it will go well and you'll be all squared away with an awesome trailer in no time at all. We love love love ours and it's killing me that we're not going to be camping in it this weekend.

I just bought two wicked little Swedish axes to help with campfire "fuel management activities." One is a HULTS BRUK Aneby Hunting Axe, and the other is a smaller Hultafors Classic. Both are forged with the same steel ... from the factory, they're almost sharp enough to shave with and I can't wait to use them!

paiceman · 10-01-2016, 04:31 AM

Aside from the issues we love this trailer. The workmanship from what I've found is very good, actually better than a 38' high end motorhome we had not long ago. The AC and HP units are whisper quite, I can test one at a time in our driveway as we have a 30amp circuit in the garage. They are much quieter than our former FC which was also ducted. The storage is simply amazing, very different from our FC so we will have to get used to where things are now. But much of what I kept in the bed of the truck and hardly every used in now in the outside storage of the AS.

Airheds, I like axes and knives. I am going to look into the ones you mentioned.

We leave for the factory on Monday AM, Tuesday is the day. The Sales Manager and the Sales Person from the dealership called yesterday, actually last evening and we went over my concerns in detail. It's all good, they asked me to come to the dealership instead of the factory, but I declined as this is our forth AS and we've never seen the factory or obviously been on a tour. So, we are going on a test trip, visiting the factory, addressing our concerns all in one shot. Then she goes to bed until late December when we head to Florida for the winter.

Bud

Grateful2 · 10-02-2016, 08:01 AM

For screws that are loose use a little Locktite I use Red to keep them in. In a moving home things will always work loose just routine Maintence! We have a international 27fb and the ss SHEILD had a screw to work loose used the red stuff and voila 3000 miles later still holding strong. Went to Rv show yesterday and was reassured that out silver bullet we call Frankie is still the best!

AIRHEDS · 10-02-2016, 11:21 AM

In the bathroom's medicine cabinet (left wall below the mirror and adjacent to the under-sink vanity), there are 4 narrow shelves (~3" depth?, ~14" long?) ... the length of these shelves fit the opening well. They were then CNC'd to locate shelf-pin abatements. The clips that were actually used, extend into the opening by perhaps 3/32" on each side, so, when the shelf is installed between the clips, it doesn't fit. Either the factory or the dealer put the shelves on a chop saw and removed about 3/16" from one end of each shelf. Viola - the shelves fit between the clips. However, this fix incidentally created a different problem. The CNC'd abatements to recess the shelf-pins were no longer "long enough" to allow the shelf to drop-in to the recess. Without the shelf-pin completely recessed, the shelf doesn't sit level by approximately 1/16" ... which isn't necessarily a problem (if you don't have self-diagnosed OCD like I do), but it also meant that without the proper-fitting abatement, there's nothing to keep the shelf from sliding out. And when the top shelf falls, it has a cascading effect on the shelf below it, and so on ... until all of the shelves are all over the floor. Ask me how I know. Something so trivial can be such an annoyance.

The fix: put the shelf on a drill press and use a forstner bit to extend the recess. Note, forstner bits drill flat bottoms, so by setting the depth stop, you can quickly replicate the rebates. I've attached a pic to show how the back slot was extended. The board on the left is just a stop to rapidly position each of the four boards.

Once we determine the desired shelf locations, we'll put screws through the shelves to anchor the shelf pins to the shelves - they'll never fall out again. A picture is worth 1000 words...

Let me assure you, I'm not bitching ... I hope I have a dozen more petty issues like this instead of anything more serious. I can deal with these nuisances. :-)

Take care,
Rich

AIRHEDS · 10-03-2016, 03:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Grateful2

For screws that are loose use a little Locktite I use Red to keep them in. In a moving home things will always work loose just routine Maintence! We have a international 27fb and the ss SHEILD had a screw to work loose used the red stuff and voila 3000 miles later still holding strong. Went to Rv show yesterday and was reassured that out silver bullet we call Frankie is still the best!

Thanks Grateful2. This isn't just a screw working loose - it's a stripped out screw that can literally be pushed in, and just falls out. I trust Colonial to fix it properly ... heading there with the trailer this weekend. Thanks, Rich

paiceman · 10-07-2016, 04:49 AM

Just to clarify on the disconnect. While at the factory I independently asked four people about how to operate this units switch.

Technician - Full disconnect, if not "In Use" nothing will work
Floor Technical Supervisor - Full disconnect, if not "In Use" nothing electrical will work.
Production electrical foreman - Full disconnect, if not "In Use", you'll be in the dark.
National Service Manager - This is a full - real disconnect switch, if the switch is in the "In Use" position all electrical components will function, if it's in the "Store" position only the LP monitor and the doorbell will function.

Bud

AIRHEDS · 11-11-2016, 05:59 AM

During our first full week in the trailer, our bathroom door, when closed, clunked back and forth (the strike plate isn't set back far enough and that little slop allowed the door to jiggle between the strike plate and the "door frame/jamb?"). It drove me freaking nuts when either of us were moving about in the trailer. The fix was simple.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Frost-Kin...25WA/100017014

It looked like this (may not have been the same brand) but I bought the brown version ... I used a strip about 8" long, tore it in half lengthwise, and set one strip at the top where the door closes, and another at the bottom. In retrospect, it probably just needed one 6" length at the bottom of the door. Regardless, in our case, there was enough slop that we don't really even need to give the door much of a push to close it. And it's dead silent, the way I like it.

Silent night...
Rich

dickschaak · 11-11-2016, 07:19 AM

Thanks for the good info. I take delivery on my 2017 30 Classic next Wednesday. I have made a list from your post. Did yours come with a solar panel?

paiceman · 11-11-2016, 11:33 AM

Mine did not it was added. We also added a Dish Traveler antenna. The solar controller has already failed, new one under warranty is on order. I've disconnected the batteries just to keep them from discharging too much. It's a nice trailer, but if you have had trailers or Airstreams in the past it is very different. Much more like a delux motorhome, in fact the place I have taken my Rvs for years did a state inspection on our trailer and said that all the components and systems are something they see in top end motorhomes, Time will tell. We are planning on giving her a three month test this winter.

Bud

AIRHEDS · 11-12-2016, 08:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dickschaak

Thanks for the good info. I take delivery on my 2017 30 Classic next Wednesday. I have made a list from your post. Did yours come with a solar panel?

Yes, Dick. Mine did, however, if I had it to do over again, I'd have opted not to get the factory solar and instead follow Alano's advice (Alan) to do a better system for less money ... he recommended a four-100W series-parallel combination of panels:

Quote:

In my setup, I wired two panels in parallel and then series connected them to another two panels wired in parallel. The reason I did this was to reuse the existing #10 AWG wiring and be able to run 400 W. ... By using a series/parallel combinate your losses can be minimized - even with 10 AWG wires.

The Blue Sky MPPT controllers 3024i are very efficient and can handle a wide range of input voltages. One of the really nice things is that you can buy the optional IPN Pro remote which includes a battery monitor..........

Use Google to search this site with the string: Site:airforums.com solar series/parallel loss #10 400

Let's please not make this a solar thread ... there are too many good ones on the forum. :-)

Thanks,
Rich

dickschaak · 11-12-2016, 08:32 AM

Thanks for the help

dickschaak · 11-27-2016, 04:13 PM

We take our first trip in our new AS in January. My wife was wondering what, if anything, should be done with the Queen bed. Should we get a topper, mattress pad or anything else? Thanks!

mojoe7009 · 11-27-2016, 08:24 PM

Airheads, I have the ProPride 3P Hitch as well to tow our 2017 Classic. Dealer did not set it up correctly and I have been working with Sean at ProPride since delivery at the first of November. He's awesome, great customer service. Would you mind telling how far your WD jacks are set back from the center of the Hitch ball coupling?

Breathe in, breathe out, move on!

rmkrum · 11-27-2016, 09:27 PM

I don't recall the exact measurement from the install instructions, but it should end up that the hooks on the sides of the WD jacks are directly above the ends of the bars when the hitch head is aligned straight ahead.

I had to fudge mine about 3/4 inch because of the propane tank cover and battery box location. Kinda tight on my AS.

It's a wonderful setup once you get it dialed in.

Sent from my pocket Internet using Airstream Forums

AIRHEDS · 11-28-2016, 11:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mojoe7009

Airheads, I have the ProPride 3P Hitch as well to tow our 2017 Classic. Dealer did not set it up correctly and I have been working with Sean at ProPride since delivery at the first of November. He's awesome, great customer service. Would you mind telling how far your WD jacks are set back from the center of the Hitch ball coupling? Breathe in, breathe out, move on!

Mojoe, I'll be happy to, however, the trailer is about 35 minutes away (without DC area traffic) and we'll be away this weekend ... so it's going to be a while before we can get back to you with this info... Sorry I can't be of much help anytime soon...

mojoe7009 · 11-28-2016, 06:21 PM

No problem. Very much appreciate any assistance. I believe I'm as good as it is going to get. Any closer and my battery box door won't open. It's been a bit of an ordeal getting it dialed in thanks to the dealer literally leaving critical parts out! Thank goodness for Sean at ProPride...saved my bacon!