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Old 07-20-2019, 03:29 PM   #57
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Oh My!
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Old 07-20-2019, 07:50 PM   #58
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Hahaha!
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Old 07-21-2019, 12:22 AM   #59
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Originally Posted by smithcreek View Post
Wow! Sick to your stomach? And you don't even own an AS? You must be a very sensitive person, or a drama queen.
I guess you didnít read my first post I made,
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Old 07-21-2019, 12:27 AM   #60
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You need to go over to IRV2 and check out the Provost forum that cost north of 2 million dollars and read all the problems they are having with brand new coaches. I have own Montana, Cougar, Solitude and Fleetwood Class A and so far I had fewer complaints/problems about the AS then any of the others. My entire reason I purchased a AS is less things to go wrong include slides.
Thatís not good reasoning to buy and AS.
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Old 07-21-2019, 05:25 AM   #61
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Hi

Lets back up a little here. If the trailer is fully / tightly sealed to the outside, what happens when you turn on the stove vent? Nothing, other than you burn out the motor. Same thing with the shower vent or bath vent. There *has* to be some way for air to get into the trailer with the windows shut. Otherwise the ventilation will not work.

The air flow needs to be good enough that you don't suck air backwards through the black and gray tanks as your prime source of air coming in. Yes, that can be an iffy thing in some cases. The fact that it can get iffy suggests they may not have *enough* air into the trailer.

You can't bring the air in through the roof, rain would come in the vent. Same problem with the walls. Think about running down the road and the kind of wind involved there. The only practical way to get air in is from below.

Next up is the ... errr .... plywood floor. You do not want it to get soggy from condensation and stay that way. Again, you need something moving down there to dry out the area. Floor rot is *not* something you want to have happen.

If you are going to block stuff, do it with screening that will let air through. You do not want to seal the thing up tight.

Bob
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Old 07-21-2019, 07:17 AM   #62
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I agree with you that if the trailer is too "tight", moisture has nowhere to go. Opening the shower vent and also the bathroom vent would be plenty. Ours are always open except for travel.

With our connect system (and solar), we have the luxury of doing the above and also run the fantastic fan for a few hours each day when we are not using it. The trailer temp inside my trailer at JC (in for warranty work) reached 100 degrees while waiting to be brought into the service bay. I just ran the fan during the day to cool it off.

It's fun to watch if work is being done on the trailer. They have it in a bay right now, plugged in. Everything is off (battery disconnect). Last Friday they had both air conditioners on, well they thought. The front was set to AC and rear was set to heat pump. I corrected it for them!

And no, they were not testing the heat pump. It was set to 65 degrees. They were trying to lower the temperature.
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Old 07-21-2019, 07:45 AM   #63
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. . .
It's fun to watch if work is being done on the trailer. They have it in a bay right now, plugged in. Everything is off (battery disconnect). Last Friday they had both air conditioners on, well they thought. The front was set to AC and rear was set to heat pump. I corrected it for them!

And no, they were not testing the heat pump. It was set to 65 degrees. They were trying to lower the temperature.


Not exactly a "ringing endorsement" of the QC at Jackson Center! [IMO]

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Old 07-21-2019, 08:19 AM   #64
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Not exactly a "ringing endorsement" of the QC at Jackson Center! [IMO]

The Czone panel requires a "cycling" push. Once for the fan. Once for AC. Once for heat. It's easy to make a mistake and heat up the trailer when its 90 degrees out!
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Old 07-21-2019, 09:01 AM   #65
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Quote:
Originally Posted by uncle_bob View Post
Hi

Lets back up a little here. If the trailer is fully / tightly sealed to the outside, what happens when you turn on the stove vent? Nothing, other than you burn out the motor. Same thing with the shower vent or bath vent. There *has* to be some way for air to get into the trailer with the windows shut. Otherwise the ventilation will not work.

The air flow needs to be good enough that you don't suck air backwards through the black and gray tanks as your prime source of air coming in. Yes, that can be an iffy thing in some cases. The fact that it can get iffy suggests they may not have *enough* air into the trailer.

You can't bring the air in through the roof, rain would come in the vent. Same problem with the walls. Think about running down the road and the kind of wind involved there. The only practical way to get air in is from below.

Next up is the ... errr .... plywood floor. You do not want it to get soggy from condensation and stay that way. Again, you need something moving down there to dry out the area. Floor rot is *not* something you want to have happen.

If you are going to block stuff, do it with screening that will let air through. You do not want to seal the thing up tight.

Bob


Dead on. The if Airstreams were sealed up tight they would be like the "sick" buildings we used to read about that were made so impervious to air infiltration that they became stale and musty.
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Old 07-21-2019, 09:21 AM   #66
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One of my new owner mistakes. I have one AC that stays on Cool between trips and one that defaults to Heat. I couldn't understand after about hour the temp still in the high 70's till I realized that I had one on heat and one on cool. I had the heat pump set for 72 so never came on but wasn't colling either.



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The Czone panel requires a "cycling" push. Once for the fan. Once for AC. Once for heat. It's easy to make a mistake and heat up the trailer when its 90 degrees out!
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Old 07-21-2019, 09:24 AM   #67
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Aaaaahhhh, I see. So there's a hole in the plywood floor, which is not an issue by itself...of course there penetrations through the plywood floor in all our trailers to accommodate plumbing, electrical, heating. But a big gap in the belly covering, as shown in the pics posted by the OP in post #1 and post #44 from the outside, that allows one to see grass through the plumbing hole, from the INSIDE of the trailer...is actually a well thought-out design feature to allow the trailer to 'breathe', and prevent the stove vent fan motor from burning out?

BAHAHAHAHAHA. That one 'jumps the shark' even in the realm of Airstream Defenders.

When I want to turn on the stove vent or fantastic fan, if the windows are closed due to cooler weather, I crack a window, open the bath vent, open other fantastic fan lid, etc. Obviously.

Of course the belly pan will not be "air-tight." But being able to SEE the lawn or the road through a hole in the interior floor is not acceptable. Give me a break. Something was missed during manufacture of that trailer...a 'short' piece of aluminum that an installer put on anyway, or whatever. The pics speak for themselves.
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Old 07-21-2019, 09:41 AM   #68
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Maybe a thief cut that outside hole in the belly pan? Airstream does no wrong . . .

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Old 07-21-2019, 10:11 AM   #69
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Maybe a thief cut that outside hole in the belly pan? Airstream does no wrong . . .



Actually, the opening is pretty much meaningless in a practical sense, except that it illustrates that no matter what people will find something to complain about. If it wasn't that gap, it would be something else.

There, I said it.
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Old 07-21-2019, 10:31 AM   #70
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The gap we are seeing in the area where the water hose hooks up to the AS. That area is damp and easy access for mice and mice can do a lot of damage. I going to do my best to seal up that area and put a reminder to check that monthly for signs of mice. The inside I just going to use some copper mesh and cover the holes so it can still breath but hopefully, it blocks the mice.

Our motor home the wife pulled out a blanket for a cool night and found a nest with baby mice still in it. We search for entry points and even put some bright lights in the coach and check for light on the outside at night. We never did. find where the mice were getting in at. Any likely entrance for mice I find I will take some sort of corrective action.
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