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Old 05-30-2016, 03:33 PM   #15
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Tipton , Iowa
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Bikes that are worth riding do not deserve the abuse they get on a bike rack on the back of a trailer.

They're exposed to the weather, dirt, and theft, and most racks don't do anything to help out their finish. You can't see them to know how secure they are, or whether you're dragging a bike wheel on the ground.

Any bike you care about should ride inside the cabin of the trailer if you don't have space inside the tow vehicle. You can lock them to the tongue and cover them when you're parked. There are a variety of fairly easy ways to carry them inside; probably the easiest is just to put fork mounts on a 2x6x(whatever your cabin width is.) Put the fork mount board down, bring the bikes in and attach them to the fork mounts and you're done. They'll stay put and won't damage the upholstery or woodwork that way.

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Old 05-30-2016, 11:32 PM   #16
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1999 25' Safari
Truckee , California
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We have electric bikes that weigh about 60 lbs apiece. I looked at all the various options for carrying the bikes. I ended up building a simple rack for the back wheels and we carry them inside the trailer (1983 Avion 30P). They are protected from the weather and any concern over theft, and the weight is near the axles rather than behind the rear bumper. It only takes a few minutes to load or unload - no worse than putting them on a bike rack. If you have room in your trailer, it's an inexpensive and secure option to consider.

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Old 05-31-2016, 10:12 AM   #17
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1993 21' Sovereign
Colfax , North Carolina
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Originally Posted by overlander63 View Post
We do have a Classic bike rack in the parts department. I can check Tuesday for compatibility. I do know the box the bike rack is in says "Classic Bike Rack"".
I verified today the Fiamma bike rack marked "Classic" is indeed for the post 2015 models.
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Old 05-31-2016, 11:15 AM   #18
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2015 30' Classic
Calgary , Alberta
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I've used one on my FC and it was cumbersome to use and (as already explained) difficult to get access to the rear storage trunk. If I wanted to get to anything I would have to remove the bikes and go through the entire hassle again. Also, my bikes are not inexpensive and was always paranoid about what was going on back there....even with a rear camera.
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Old 05-31-2016, 11:32 AM   #19
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2008 25' Classic
Nixa , Missouri
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Hi have the Arvika tongue bike rack on my 2008 Classic and it has its downsides too; added tongue weight, rack can interfere with backing in tight spots if you have an SUV or pickup with camper shell.

I'm thinking if I were to do it all over again I would purchase a couple of Montague full size folding bikes and keep in the back of my pickup. I spent about $800 on our two traditional bikes and $700 on the Arvika system. Could've purchased two Montague bikes for the same. I don't like the majority of folding bikes because of their small diameter rims but Montague are 26/27" sized.

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Old 05-31-2016, 11:32 AM   #20
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Battle Lake , Minnesota
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A tip for those who have trouble getting their two bikes to fit closely together on the Fiamma rack. The bottom rails the bike tires rest on are adjustable side-to-side, moving them around may help things fit together. The bikes sit closely together and very near the shell to minimize lading on the frame and shell. If you still cannot fit them, you can get a longer bike support arm from Fiamma to space them apart a little, so I have been told. Ours fit fine, I did move the bottom rails a little to give some extra space.
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Old 05-31-2016, 01:51 PM   #21
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2008 19' Bambi
2012 23' Flying Cloud
Bandera , Texas
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We have the Arvika as well, have about 5,000 miles with it on the AS with no issues. Just couldn't come to terms with drilling into the skin, and, the tongue mount keeps the bikes much cleaner in my opinion.Click image for larger version

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Old 07-27-2016, 06:20 AM   #22
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Exeter , Rhode Island
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2013 Classic Fiamma

I purchased a Fiamma bike rack for my 2013 Classic. Dispite following diections closely, the dimesions are not correct. The bike frame measures 1 inch more than the width of the camper. Airstream has been helpful with advice but Fiamma customer service is worthless. I also noticed that I did not receive the proper hardware and because of that, bolt heads will not allow me to open rear bumper storage compartment when the rack is fully installed. Also, emergency escape would be blocked by bikes. After reading other posts here, I have decided to swallow my pride and give up. It was e very expensive and frustrating mistake. Sure love my Classic and very happy with any other interactions with Airstream.
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Old 07-27-2016, 07:25 AM   #23
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2008 25' Classic
Nixa , Missouri
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When researching bike racks I felt the Classic version of the Fiamma bike rack required to much "Macgyvering" to be installed due to the Classic bumper/tray design and that's why I went with Arvika.

2008 Classic 25fb "Silver Mistress"
2015 Ram 2500 6.7L Cummins. Crew Cab, 4x4, Silver
2010 Tundra 5.7L, Double Cab, 2wd, White
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Old 07-27-2016, 08:37 AM   #24
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2016 30' Classic
Sandpoint , Idaho
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I installed the Fiamma bike rack on my 2008 Classic. It's doable, but a real PITA to install. If it's not done exactly right, the upper brackets will break. Ask me how I know. I now have a Fiamma bike rack installed on my 2016 Classic. A much easier install and, in my opinion, a more solid installation. I don't use it for my best bikes, just my "trailer bikes."
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Old 07-27-2016, 09:57 AM   #25
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El Dorado Hills , California
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Originally Posted by wcrockett View Post
Agree. Mine broke the 1st time I traveled with the trailer. They refused to replace it as a warranty claim after asking that I send them pictures to prove that it broke. The post is designed with a pin to shear off from the bracket. When When the pin shears off it breaks the bracket. Fiamma will only sell the post, pin and bracket as one part for $56.. They need to manfacture a bracket that does not break when the pin shears and sell the shear pin as a stand alone part. The shear pin is also to soft. I am using small aluminum bolts instead of the pins. I will never buy another fiamma product.
Installed the Fiamma rack myself. As Doug mentions, the lower tracks can be loosened and adjusted (slid lift/right) so that two bikes may be carried without touching each other. I also drilled new holes and remounted the outer track as far out as possible on the bottom support beam. Gained about 1.5" additional separation between the bikes but that helped a lot.

The post above is the first I've seen that appears to lay out the cause of the occasional rack failure. So it is the pin, not the bracket that fails first? Looking at my rack the pin appears to be a big rivet. So, I wonder, can the pin be replace with a simple steel bolt? Would this be a permanent fix?

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