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Old 12-27-2017, 03:15 AM   #21
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2018 30' Classic
New York , New York
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Posts: 215
We have experienced issues lighting our oven without using a lighter. The igniter switch does not appear to work with the oven. When I asked the dealer to look at it, the response was that it was supposed to be lit with an external lighter. Of course, after checking with JC, I know that what we were attempting to do was in fact was supposed to work. Just another minor thing to keep on the list to get resolved after the AS is back in service after the winter break!
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Old 12-27-2017, 04:38 AM   #22
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Now I feel stupid; if I'd just stuck my head in between the wheels a little farther I'd have seen them. Thanks, Bud. Any significance to the color coding? Hot water heater maybe for the red valve? Also, what's the purpose of the additional low point drain for the bathroom area? I opened it and nothing happened.
Blue is for the cold, Red is for the hot. The additional low point in the back for the bathroom is a just to be sure valve - at least that is what I was told when we were at JC 18 months ago. Often I have found if I dump the two valves you just found as well as the Alde when I open the back low point drain nothing comes out as well, no big deal. Stupid, not a bit, these things are not simple and sometimes make no sense at all, at least to me.

Bud
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Old 12-28-2017, 04:57 AM   #23
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2018 30' Classic
Cumberland , Maryland
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Arrow

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Originally Posted by mikeinca View Post
So a couple more questions, if you please.

The manual (on page 8-11) shows a picture of a white drain valve with two brass petcocks below it for draining fresh water. This is similar to the arrangement on my departed 25' FC. However, as can be seen in the left hand picture below, my Classic has only the white valve. I've looked around and can't find the brass valves in another location. Are they missing on the 30' Classic, and the manual just has another error?

Also, as shown in the right hand pic, there is a valve located between the city water fill and the black tank flush. The tech who did our walk around said it was a drain valve for the fresh water tank but when I open the valve nothing happens (yes, there's water in the tank ). Is there some other step required or does this valve exist for some other purpose?
I have never seen anything come out of the white valve in the left picture. The chrome valve in the right picture sole purpose as explained to me was for purging your fresh water line when hooking up. Meaning to hook up your fresh water line, open the chrome valve, then turn on the fresh water supply to purge any sediment in the supply line before it goes into your system. Not that I agree with that procedure but that is the only explanation I heard. I just turn on fresh water supply and let it run for a few seconds prior to any hookup.
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Old 12-28-2017, 05:37 AM   #24
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Decatur , Illinois
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the valve in the left picture is to drain your fresh water tank
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Old 12-28-2017, 06:54 AM   #25
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2022 Interstate 24X
Carlisle , Pennsylvania
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Hi

As long as we are on the topic of drain valves. There is another one inside the trailer by the Alde unit. It dumps the hot water tank. It is also an over pressure valve. If you pull up to a campsite with billion pound water pressure, you *can* activate it when you hook up the city water. Makes a big puddle under the trailer by the time you figure that all out

Bob
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Old 12-30-2017, 10:07 AM   #26
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2018 33' Classic
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Lighting the oven, press and hold the oven knob for at least 30 secs as you light it, this is a thermal couple and the oven will remain lit.
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Old 12-30-2017, 09:36 PM   #27
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Lighting the oven, press and hold the oven knob for at least 30 secs as you light it, this is a thermal couple and the oven will remain lit.
I appreciate the thought, but I've tried holding the knob in for periods of time ranging from 10 seconds to 2 minutes, and have tested releasing it everywhere from the "Light" position to 450 degrees with no luck. I know that the oven uses a thermocouple, but I suspect it's faulty.
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Old 12-31-2017, 12:11 PM   #28
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the valve in the left picture is to drain your fresh water tank
I hope your wrong because I have never seen a drop come out of it.
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Old 01-01-2018, 05:34 AM   #29
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I hope your wrong because I have never seen a drop come out of it.

rbs is correct the valve on the left is the fresh water tank drain. It needs to be turned half way and water will slowly drain out. When we are done for the season I usually open it at our last campground and drive away. But, we seldom carry much water in the tank to begin with as we only use it to flush the toilet, everything else is either campground or bottled water.

Bud
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Old 01-02-2018, 05:25 AM   #30
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rbs is correct the valve on the left is the fresh water tank drain. It needs to be turned half way and water will slowly drain out. When we are done for the season I usually open it at our last campground and drive away. But, we seldom carry much water in the tank to begin with as we only use it to flush the toilet, everything else is either campground or bottled water.

Bud
This is what I like about the forum, it keeps me on my toes. Somehow this was not registered in my memory banks, which is a issue this forum can't fix but will help me along. Looks like it will be a while before I can do a functional test, but I believe you guys!
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Old 01-19-2018, 05:21 PM   #31
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Follow up on the oven issue

Our dealer says that the failure of the oven to stay lit in our 2018 Classic is due to a faulty thermocouple and they have ordered the part from Dometic. The bad news is that the part has to come from Sweden by boat FCOL and will likely take more than a month. With a boondocking trip planned at the end of February I guess we'll just have to do without a reliably operating oven. Oh well, the pioneers managed that somehow...
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Old 01-19-2018, 08:45 PM   #32
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New York , New York
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2018 30' Classic; a glitch and an oddity

Quote:
Originally Posted by mikeinca View Post
Our dealer says that the failure of the oven to stay lit in our 2018 Classic is due to a faulty thermocouple and they have ordered the part from Dometic. The bad news is that the part has to come from Sweden by boat FCOL and will likely take more than a month. With a boondocking trip planned at the end of February I guess we'll just have to do without a reliably operating oven. Oh well, the pioneers managed that somehow...


Good to know. The technician told us it wasn’t supposed to have an electronic ignition lighter. AS said no, it was intended to light as the burners do. Now I know what to ask for.
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Old 01-20-2018, 06:30 AM   #33
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Hi

A little background here: The thermocouple detects the fact that the oven is lit. It keeps the gas valve open so the flame can keep burning. If the flame goes out for some reason, the thermocouple cools and the gas to the oven is turned off.

Bob
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