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Old 06-12-2016, 08:43 AM   #29
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After finding the video I am glad I have the 2015. As a full time rver every storage space is important. What you gain from what you loose is not worth it. I also wish I never got the power awning. As a RV technician I see how people can't even use the basics in their trailer and I have to go and show them how to work it. I also have people who work on sob trailers and have heard the stories about the touch pads. The towel warmer will keep the bathroom warm have seen them in action and are nice. Some features are nice some I don't care for. Agree with Babs need to upgrade the inverter and insulation values. Not trading up like what I have better. Just have to hope the quality control has gone up
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Old 06-12-2016, 08:54 AM   #30
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Apparently the boiler provides both heat and domestic hot water, the familiar water heater and furnace hatches on the exterior are gone. Is this then a continuous domestic hot water supply or is there a storage tank in the unit?
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Old 06-12-2016, 09:19 AM   #31
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Nice looking unit, and lots of interesting discussion on radiant heating etc. We own a 10-year old Classic (27FB) which we love, but the one feature that I like here is the added room and reclining sofas - appears to be better seating for rainy / snowy days (we are occasional weekenders only) when you spend more time inside. I've seen similar in larger Floating Clouds.

My question - are these well made and comfortable? I was told by one gentleman with something similar in his FC that he planned to take it out and put in individual recliner chairs.

Not meaning to hijack the other discussion points under this thread, but it is the one point of interest to me. Hopefully someday I will be less tethered to work and able to get away on longer trips where additional room and comfort may be beneficial.

Regards - Ron
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Old 06-12-2016, 09:22 AM   #32
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Nice additions. I am surprised that the heater does not run on LP. Radiant can be either.

One thing I still am amazed about across the entire RV community is the lack of new AC design. I was in Costco this week looking at a portable Delonghi AC unit and it was running VERY quiet with little wind noise and no compressor noise. Why cannot they build something like that for RVs?
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Old 06-12-2016, 10:19 AM   #33
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Originally Posted by dkottum View Post
Apparently the boiler provides both heat and domestic hot water, the familiar water heater and furnace hatches on the exterior are gone. Is this then a continuous domestic hot water supply or is there a storage tank in the unit?
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Originally Posted by rodsterinfl View Post
Nice additions. I am surprised that the heater does not run on LP. Radiant can be either.

One thing I still am amazed about across the entire RV community is the lack of new AC design. I was in Costco this week looking at a portable Delonghi AC unit and it was running VERY quiet with little wind noise and no compressor noise. Why cannot they build something like that for RVs?
The Alde radiant heat is a continuous hot water supply and can use up to two electric heating elements, LP, or all three at once. Pretty cool.
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Old 06-12-2016, 07:00 PM   #34
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I forgot to mention that the touch screen system is a basic computer. For us full time people we know how good the electric power is in campgrounds. I highly recommend a progressive surge protector and I also added a Hugh's autoformer. I have been hit by low voltage to often and it will get worse. If you use the built in surge protector remember to flip the floating ground switch to get power in
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Old 06-12-2016, 08:33 PM   #35
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I forgot to mention that the touch screen system is a basic computer. For us full time people we know how good the electric power is in campgrounds. I highly recommend a progressive surge protector and I also added a Hugh's autoformer. I have been hit by low voltage to often and it will get worse. If you use the built in surge protector remember to flip the floating ground switch to get power in
Beetle, I think I may follow your advice. Did you put the Hugh's in line first from the power pedestal or the surge suppressor? I'd imagine you would have to put the Hugh's first, as most surge suppressors will disconnect if they see power too low. But then your Hugh's could get zapped from a surge...
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Old 06-12-2016, 08:59 PM   #36
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Ron, regarding your question on the Classic sofa with the two Villa electric recliners: the sofa looks nice and is comfortable. BeetleBob had a spot weld break in one of his, which they repaired at JC. Don't know if anyone else has had this issue. With regard to an alternate, I removed the L seat sofa from my old 2012 28' Intl CCD and installed two Euro recliners. They were wonderful. The best part was the amount of space I got back by dumping the stock sofa. I am "looking" carefully at my '15 Classic sofa, and while I haven't fully made the decision, I may well pull out this MASSIVE (and it is) Villa and replace it with two recliners....and build a custom storage cabinet between them. Because of the curved shape in the front of an Airstream, there is a lot of wasted space up there. The only requirement is to build something around the electrical wiring that comes in from the tongue. When I pulled out the L seat from my old trailer I was amazed at how much space was wasted up there. The only storage was a hinged (from the top) storage compartment which was about three feet long, 7 inches wide and 2 1/2 ft deep (approximate measurements).

Zybane: Check out the Progressive Industries Hw50C/50 Amp Hardwired Electrical Management System in addition to the Hughes. I've had one on each of my Airstreams. Since it's hardwired, you have an easy set-up and it has a built in surge protector as well. It runs about $320.
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Old 06-12-2016, 09:30 PM   #37
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Guys I've ordered both of these since I am an electronics nut and I always need good power:

http://www.campingworld.com/shopping...nsformer/72455

and

http://www.campingworld.com/shopping...-monitor/22150

So I guess I would go with Power Pedestal -> Surge Guard -> Hughes -> Trailer.

According to this, the Surge Guard will kick off at 102v:

http://www.trci.net/media/23285/product_sheet.pdf

Even with the Hughes, I'm not sure if I would want to run anything lower than 102v source. The Hughes would bring it up by 10%, or to 112v. In an emergency there is a bypass mode that can be activated on the Surge Guard to stay active below 102v, like if you are away with pets inside. This would at least allow the Hughes to do everything it can to keep the AC running down to 95v at which the Surge Guard would cut the power. Hughes goes into bypass mode at 90v, so it's fairly close.

Anyone see less than 95v at a campground? I think I could stagger the AC in my classic so that Zone 1 with the 15,000 BTU unit would be set at say 70 deg and the Zone 2 13,500 BTU unit set at 75 deg. If the Zone 1 AC unit fails, the Zone 2 should kick on.


Both items will be mounted under the rear dinette seat at the mains connection if I can fit everything in there (also looking to put a small upgraded sub in the place of the OEM sub). May use some space in the exterior refrigerator compartment too. I'm just wondering how much smoke these two devices would produce if they fail or short out protecting the power.
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Old 06-12-2016, 09:30 PM   #38
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Thanks, BAB.
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Old 06-13-2016, 09:02 AM   #39
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Hughes first it has its own surge protector then progressive. Anything below 109 volts is bad on the A/C compressor. The Hughes is water resistant not proof so you need to keep it dry I use a barbecue grill cover. You can build them into the trailer also
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Old 06-13-2016, 09:08 AM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zybane View Post
Guys I've ordered both of these since I am an electronics nut and I always need good power:

http://www.campingworld.com/shopping...nsformer/72455

and

http://www.campingworld.com/shopping...-monitor/22150

So I guess I would go with Power Pedestal -> Surge Guard -> Hughes -> Trailer.

According to this, the Surge Guard will kick off at 102v:

http://www.trci.net/media/23285/product_sheet.pdf

Even with the Hughes, I'm not sure if I would want to run anything lower than 102v source. The Hughes would bring it up by 10%, or to 112v. In an emergency there is a bypass mode that can be activated on the Surge Guard to stay active below 102v, like if you are away with pets inside. This would at least allow the Hughes to do everything it can to keep the AC running down to 95v at which the Surge Guard would cut the power. Hughes goes into bypass mode at 90v, so it's fairly close.

Anyone see less than 95v at a campground? I think I could stagger the AC in my classic so that Zone 1 with the 15,000 BTU unit would be set at say 70 deg and the Zone 2 13,500 BTU unit set at 75 deg. If the Zone 1 AC unit fails, the Zone 2 should kick on.


Both items will be mounted under the rear dinette seat at the mains connection if I can fit everything in there (also looking to put a small upgraded sub in the place of the OEM sub). May use some space in the exterior refrigerator compartment too. I'm just wondering how much smoke these two devices would produce if they fail or short out protecting the power.

Do not put stuff in the outside refrigerator compartment you need all the airflow you can get in there to cool the coils. I feel all evaporative units should come with the power fans in both inside and out for maximum performance. I saw a remarkable increase in the running of my frig after I added both
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Old 06-13-2016, 09:11 AM   #41
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Babs hurry up and remove the couch and make a cabinet. I want to see. Couch is nice but 2 zero gravity recliners would be better
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Old 06-13-2016, 01:41 PM   #42
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Hughes first it has its own surge protector then progressive. Anything below 109 volts is bad on the A/C compressor. The Hughes is water resistant not proof so you need to keep it dry I use a barbecue grill cover. You can build them into the trailer also
I'll be installing both of the power units indoors. The thought of lugging, securing and covering those every camp setup and teardown is painful.

If the surge is big, wouldn't the hughes and the progressive get fried if the hughes is put before the progressive? If you put the progressive first, the progressive should be the only thing to get fried.

What would be the benefit of putting the hughes first? Even if put after the progressive, the Hughes is doing it's job. The progressive will also show the power from the pedestal before it gets to the Hughes, leaving me with higher situation awareness.

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Do not put stuff in the outside refrigerator compartment you need all the airflow you can get in there to cool the coils. I feel all evaporative units should come with the power fans in both inside and out for maximum performance. I saw a remarkable increase in the running of my frig after I added both
I hear you on air flow. I I guess if I do put electrical boxes in there I could make sure they don't interrupt the flow too much and also puts some 12v fans to help compensate. I think some electric boxes with a good fan would still be ahead of stock cooling.
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