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Old 09-15-2016, 09:54 AM   #57
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Furnace vents

Has anyone found a source for replacing the two furnace rotatable vents by the entry door with vents that have flow controls like the ceiling vents. I used aluminum foil to seal off one of the two vents to increase flow/heat to the bedroom and hallway. I checked the temps on the remaining vent with an IR temp unit. The single vent is running at about 150 degrees up from the mid 120's with both ports open. I don't think that is an issue and there is an overtime sensor as part of the Atwood design.

But it would be nice to have adjustable vents.

Closing off one of them really helps even out the heat in the trailer.
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Old 09-15-2016, 10:31 AM   #58
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^ good idea.
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Old 09-15-2016, 11:23 AM   #59
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^ good idea.


I don't have my trailer handy, but what are the diameter of those plastic vents compared to the metal ones in the roof?

Btw, hate not being able to edit posts after a time limit
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Old 09-15-2016, 12:57 PM   #60
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Gary, I did find adjustable (rotatable and open close) RV vents by using Google. They were only about $8 each. The amount of heat that comes out of those vents (as you know), turns the front of the trailer into a VERY hot place. The color is kind of a light chocolate brown and they work fine. A word of caution: I'm not sure what would happen if you closed the two vents off simultaneously. The furnace is set up to blow a certain amount of air through the registers. If it's unable to do that and enough back pressure is created you might have an overheat/shutdown situation occur. It may be that there's enough volume in the remaining ductwork and registers to keep that from happening. I'm afraid to find out. As you know from personal experience, the early versions of this new furnace had some "issues" both with sail switches and inop boards that required replacement. Sorry I didn't keep the exact source from the purchase. Barry
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Old 09-15-2016, 03:30 PM   #61
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Barry, totally agree about not shutting both of them. 30 degree rise on one is about all I would trust. And yes, that sail switch replacement fixed my issue and the system has run flawlessly ever since. Still have a spare sail switch.
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Old 09-15-2016, 04:05 PM   #62
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Can someone please provide more info (thread/post or otherwise) on this sail switch replacement on '15 Classics. What does it rectify? What are the issues to look out for etc.? Specific model/serial numbers? Is it considered a recall? Thx
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Old 09-16-2016, 03:01 AM   #63
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I have a 2015 Classic and had my sails with replaced in Yellowstone. When the furnace shuts off there is a slight clicking noise is this normal?
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Old 09-16-2016, 10:46 AM   #64
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Has anyone found a source for replacing the two furnace rotatable vents by the entry door with vents that have flow controls like the ceiling vents. I used aluminum foil to seal off one of the two vents to increase flow/heat to the bedroom and hallway..
Great question ghaynes755. We have noticed this problem, too. Your solution is a good idea, although adjustable vents would be much preferred. Thanks for posting.
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Old 09-16-2016, 11:09 AM   #65
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I have a 2015 Classic and had my sails with replaced in Yellowstone. When the furnace shuts off there is a slight clicking noise is this normal?
You will hear some clicking as things cool off and the metal contracts. Is this what you are hearing?
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Old 09-17-2016, 03:10 AM   #66
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I don't think that is it. It sounds like something disengaging when the blowers stop
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Old 09-17-2016, 07:08 AM   #67
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It is ridiculous how poor the initial delivery quality is. It's the way car companies were back in the 70s. It's just little things that can be corrected, but is a bit disappointing when your out camping for the first time and something doesn't work because of poor assembly. And then it takes a month to get a service appointment to fix it.
We were also really surprised at our punch list of problems. Still haven't had everything fixed but we're working on it.

As stated above, autos were awful back in the day. Then JD Power started their Initial Quality Study and the Japanese led the list. Others, especially the US companies, were embarrassed and knew they'd have to up their game. The 2016 list by nameplate is Kia, Porsche, Hyundai, Toyota and BMW.

Porsche's rating is 84 problems per 100 vehicles!! Airstream could be >500 PP100. Dave
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Old 09-17-2016, 07:10 AM   #68
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Barry, totally agree about not shutting both of them. 30 degree rise on one is about all I would trust. And yes, that sail switch replacement fixed my issue and the system has run flawlessly ever since. Still have a spare sail switch.
Gary,

I have a follow-up question regarding the "sail switch' conversation that you and Barry had. What is a sail switch? I read that the 'sail switch problem' is related to an 'earlier version of the furnace. I like you have a 2016 Classic. Does my unit potentially have this same problem? Thank in advance for the advice. Dennis
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Old 09-17-2016, 08:52 PM   #69
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The sail switch is a micro switch that has an arm that is about 4 inches long and has a series of bends on the metal arm. It is held in place with a couple of small screws. The arm extends into the interior of the furnace. As the squirrel gage fan rotates and generates air flow the air flow pushes on the arm, closing the switch, which tells the control board that the fan is running. If the control board doesn't get that signal the furnace may light but within a few seconds the gas flow will shut off. It may continue to do this over and over again.

If the sail arm has flexed it may make a 'tinking' sound if the arm is hitting the edge of the squirrel cage. I think the part is about $15 or so. If you need one buy two for a spare.

As to trying to rebend the arm, been there, tried that, but the arm has multiple bends and was never successful. Put a new one in and solved all my ignition issues.
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Old 09-18-2016, 07:36 AM   #70
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The sail switch is a micro switch that has an arm that is about 4 inches long and has a series of bends on the metal arm. It is held in place with a couple of small screws. The arm extends into the interior of the furnace. As the squirrel gage fan rotates and generates air flow the air flow pushes on the arm, closing the switch, which tells the control board that the fan is running. If the control board doesn't get that signal the furnace may light but within a few seconds the gas flow will shut off. It may continue to do this over and over again.

If the sail arm has flexed it may make a 'tinking' sound if the arm is hitting the edge of the squirrel cage. I think the part is about $15 or so. If you need one buy two for a spare.

As to trying to rebend the arm, been there, tried that, but the arm has multiple bends and was never successful. Put a new one in and solved all my ignition issues.
Gary, appreciate the definition as I have lots to learn. I assume that you have not yet experienced this issue with your new 2016 but on a previous pre-2016 AS. We will be traveling to the Grand Canyon's North Rim soon and will undoubtedly be using our furnace for the first time. I will be on the lookout for this problem. Regards, Dennis
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