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Old 05-05-2016, 08:10 AM   #29
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We looked at the Classic and there were two reasons we didn't got for it. My reason was the weight. All that nice furniture and power stuff weighs, and I was going to push over the limit of my TV. And the wife did not like the interior. I guess that's why they have different interiors. It is beautiful, don't get me wrong, its just "not us". We even pondered the International and ended up with a Flying Cloud. We preferred the more modern, lighter look. And the weight was right. To each his own.
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Old 05-05-2016, 08:23 AM   #30
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We know the Flying Clouds and Internationals, not to mention specialty models like the Eddie Bauers, appeal to a lot of buyers and have been very successful for Airstream, but we are traditionalists who just like real wood and front door floor plans. The success of the new Classic proves that there are still quite a few if us left. But yes, we did end up buying a 2500 diesel rather than a 1500 gas engined tow vehicle to have enough payload capacity with the trailer in tow. We are happy with our decision on both the Aurstream and tow vehicle. There is room in the Airstream market for both points of view.
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Old 06-06-2016, 02:14 PM   #31
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Does anyone have a clever solution to keeping the dinette drawers closed? I examined the mechanism and have had to slightly bend the steel a bit to latch correctly. After a couple open/closes it won't catch. Dealer failed to rectify it. I'm afraid too many bending attempts will make it useless. Will take to JC in Sept, but usually someone out there has a clever solution. Right now my clever solution involves jamming a soft shoe under the drawer during travel.
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Old 06-06-2016, 03:23 PM   #32
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On our 25' FC, we put a screen door latch on the back and never had it come loose again. Took a second to hook the latch when traveling.
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Old 06-07-2016, 08:00 AM   #33
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These stopped all the drawer and cabinet door random openings. They are in different sizes depending on the width of the mounting area. They are less expensive than paying Airstream for another plastic catch that will break or fail in exactly the same way next time. Remember to order the appropriate brass wood screws for each size as they are not always in the local hardware store!

http://www.leevalley.com/US/Hardware...=3,41399,41405

We replaced every catch in both trailers with these.
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Old 06-29-2016, 07:06 PM   #34
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Just checking back in. Anxiously awaiting my JC appointment in early August to get my issues addressed (12 item list). Still without a functioning awning which is most frustrating.

One thing I noticed this past weekend camping was the AC acting different than expected. It was 92 outside. Had both zones in AC mode all day with both fans in auto mode. Thermostat was set at 72 in both zones. Later in the early evening when the temp fell to about 80, curious thing was the AC didn't stop until the interior temp (as read from the stock thermostat) was 66! I was expecting it to kick off at maybe 71 or 70. Thoughts?

Also, my next fix is the Fantastic fan. While closed it was coming on sporadically. I finally realized the dome contact was BARELY making contact with the switch! Then with normal thermal expansion the lid would totally disengage from the switch causing the fan to start while the dome was down. Also, the motor squeaked. Called Fantastic and they acknowledged a known issue and sent me pretty much the entire fan guts except the exterior shroud (under warranty, of course). Good for them.

With all the stupid issues I've been having, I'm amazed my trailer hasn't cracked in half like an egg or spontaneously combusted.

Frustrated, but we'll get there.
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Old 06-29-2016, 07:37 PM   #35
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In my 2016 Classic, the two zones read different temps. This occurs when I think things should be equalized, early morning before solar heating starts. It is usually 4-5 degrees difference. Check inside time in Zone 1 then switch to Zone 2 and check inside temp there.

So when I run both ACs, I set them 5 degrees apart, e.g. 77 and 72, so they both shut down at about the same time.

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Old 06-30-2016, 09:25 AM   #36
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Put the thermostat on your list for JC. While temps will vary front to back the temp sensor controlling each sensor should shut off that AC at or close to the set temperature. A set of 72 and still running at 66 is not correct.
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Old 07-04-2016, 04:19 PM   #37
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Agree with Gary. We just gave our Classic a "full workout" while at the International rally. The two A/C's performed perfectly, and no issue with thermostat temps. They seemed to be right on the money. We found that running the front unit at night worked perfectly (and quietly!). With the power outages due to the WV floods, I put the upgraded electrical to maximum use. Never had to use the generator, either. I did run the A/C for a few hours on my batteries, and the 6 panels had no problem recharging my batteries. Switz' recommendation for a bead catch (obviously) doesn't work for the dinette seat drawers. They are awesome for the overhead cabinets, though. I had one cabinet open before I installed a bead catch....on the cabinet holding the Corian. Oh, it doesn't break, it EXPLODES!
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Old 07-05-2016, 10:10 AM   #38
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The larger size catches are what we used. The spring tension on the balls can be increased by turning the screws behind each ball to the point where lots of effort is required to intentionally open the drawer.

Also, just like on a boat, the drawer contents need to be wedged in place so to speak so there is no lateral contents movement to build inertia to slam the drawer open.
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Old 07-13-2016, 12:53 PM   #39
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Something else to share to hopefully help others (16 Classic)...

On a recent trip to a wedding and a funeral I had my suit coat hanging in wardrobe on the right side. When I went to use it I found an unusual hole on the back shoulder! In the wardrobe on the right there is a partial thin wall obscuring a vertical vent pipe. The edge facing the curb is rough and the constant motion worked a hole through the jacket. Will be looking for some smooth protection to help avoid this in the future (aside from keeping clothes away from that side of the closet).

Also, on my Kohler kitchen faucet mine has no markings for hot or cold. As it turns out ours is hot if pulled forward and cold if pushed toward the curb. I thought the other way around was more or less the quasi-standard as it's more likely to pull the lever forward (small kid pulls and scalds, e.g.). I couldn't find anything specific on Kohler's installation manuals. Obviously I can reverse these if I choose. Was curious how other's were plumbed.
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Old 07-20-2016, 02:41 PM   #40
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Same way hot forward cold back
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Old 07-20-2016, 03:21 PM   #41
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Hot/cold exact opposite on the same Kohler faucet set. Always confused. Maybe they have a Kiwi or Aussie doing that part of the build. Easy swap but to lazy to swap the fittings.
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Old 07-20-2016, 04:10 PM   #42
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Color blind installer.
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