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Old 01-21-2019, 11:29 AM   #1
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2017 30' Classic
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12V electrical not working... temp 20 degrees!

I have a 2017 Classic 30. It's new to us, so the problem might be me! I apologize in advance for the long post- but I've really tried hard to figure this out...and I'm stumped.

Plugged into 120V, 20amp circuit at home... for about a week. Everything seemed to going fine. The weather has been 20-40 degrees the whole time. Alde system set at 47 degrees. We are not winterized.

We were giving a friend the nickel tour yesterday, and noticed the Alde system screen said "Battery too low." The inside temp was 42 degrees. The batteries were at 9.9V. I hooked up to the TV and the display indicated 11.1V and was climbing. At this point I suspected the onboard charger/converter wasn't working. I read everything I could find on this forum and Facebook. I also thought there's a possibility that the batteries are shot and/or the charger just can't keep them up or is shot. So....

I checked the batteries and several cells needed fluid. So I added distilled water. I put an external charger (set a 3 amps) overnight hooked directly to the batteries. Everything seemed to be heading the right direction as I checked on things several times last night. The display in the AS said 11.9V, and then at the last check 12.8V. So I quit worrying so much.

BUT.... this morning, batteries at at 100% charge at 12V (according to my charger- which automatically stops charging when full). But nothing on the 12V side is working in the AS. 110 outlets are working (still plugged into 120V 20A circuit through the shore line). It's currently 26 degrees inside, and 23 degrees outside. The backlighting for all the control panels are flickering. No lights will come on. So I put a space heater in there for the time being, plugged into an outlet in the bathroom and opened all the cabinets. Hopefully I haven't popped any plumbing.

The battery disconnect switch by the door is on. I know the Alde control operates on 12 volt (even though the elements run on 120V). So I understand why the Alde system isn't functioning. All the breakers are "on." I even flipped them all off then back on. All of the 12V breakers are normal. The two 30 amp fuses on the Converter/charger are good, too. The main screen by the dinette where I normally look for battery condition isn't lit... so I looked under the sink at the battery/tank monitor and it says "6oo" ...which kind of looks like "Boo" in LCD-speak ...no doubt a reference to my performance in this endeavor

I did notice that the little red light on the AS end of the 50A cable isn't lit- but that might be a coincidence or unrelated.

Is the Converter/Charger shot?
Are the batteries shot?
Are both shot?
Did I fry something charging the batteries overnight without isolating them?

Hoping for some wisdom.

Doug
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Old 01-21-2019, 12:14 PM   #2
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Update.... I disconnected the batteries from the AS and checked each with a multi-meter. They are at 8.07VDC and 8.3VDC. So I'm starting with the bad batteries theory. I know that's not enough juice for life, but explains the flicker of life I saw.

And after charging all night, and that they had dry cells, I'll start there. Maybe the converter/charger is bad too. We'll see what happens with good batteries. But since everything is close for the holiday, will have to shop for batteries tomorrow.
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Old 01-21-2019, 12:27 PM   #3
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If your batteries went dry, they are likely damaged. Time for replacement.
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Old 01-21-2019, 12:43 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by DougC27 View Post
Update.... I disconnected the batteries from the AS and checked each with a multi-meter. They are at 8.07VDC and 8.3VDC. So I'm starting with the bad batteries theory. I know that's not enough juice for life, but explains the flicker of life I saw.

And after charging all night, and that they had dry cells, I'll start there. Maybe the converter/charger is bad too. We'll see what happens with good batteries. But since everything is close for the holiday, will have to shop for batteries tomorrow.
Clean the terminals and put them back on the charger. Maybe they will still hold a charge long enough for some testing. You can always get new batteries tomorrow.
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Old 01-21-2019, 12:46 PM   #5
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Clean the terminals and put them back on the charger. Maybe they will still hold a charge long enough for some testing. You can always get new batteries tomorrow.
I've got no way to load test. I'm at interstate battery now. I'll have them charge and test them, and go from there. Thanks for responding!
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Old 01-21-2019, 12:52 PM   #6
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Welcome Aboard!! 🥂👍

First thing I would do...leave the AS plugged in and WINTERIZE.
Get some more heaters in there and say a little prayer to Wally that nothing has frozen.
It's not likely to warm up much in Kansas 'til Spring.
You can remove the batt's to charge & test, if the converter is good everything will be powered in the AS.

Interstate checking?...A quick charge and test?
Pay the pro-rate and accept new batts.

Good Luck...🤞

Bob
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Old 01-21-2019, 01:12 PM   #7
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If you have no 12 vdc in the AS when on shore power, then something has to be amiss with the converter. Even without batteries, if you are on 110 vac then the converter would be supplying 12 vdc, even if not charging the batteries.



The Use / Store switch by the door has to be in the Use position for charging. If you are plugged into 110 vac the red light will be on and you should have 12 vdc inside, but press the switch to Use to be sure you're charging the batteries.


...even so, when connected to shore power the converter should be providing 12 vdc. You should have winterized, at least use an air compressor to blow out the lines.
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Old 01-21-2019, 02:27 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by ROBERT CROSS View Post
First thing I would do...leave the AS plugged in and WINTERIZE.
Get some more heaters in there and say a little prayer to Wally that nothing has frozen.
It's not likely to warm up much in Kansas 'til Spring.
You can remove the batt's to charge & test, if the converter is good everything will be powered in the AS.

Interstate checking?...A quick charge and test?
Pay the pro-rate and accept new batts.

Good Luck...🤞

Bob
We're going right back or in it soon....so I was hoping to avoid all that....but even blowing out the lines as you suggested would provide peace of mind when something fails.
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Old 01-21-2019, 02:32 PM   #9
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Exactly Doug...blo 🌬 and leave all drains and faucets open.

Hope all is OK...👍

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Old 01-21-2019, 02:34 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by richw46 View Post
If you have no 12 vdc in the AS when on shore power, then something has to be amiss with the converter. Even without batteries, if you are on 110 vac then the converter would be supplying 12 vdc, even if not charging the batteries.



The Use / Store switch by the door has to be in the Use position for charging. If you are plugged into 110 vac the red light will be on and you should have 12 vdc inside, but press the switch to Use to be sure you're charging the batteries.


...even so, when connected to shore power the converter should be providing 12 vdc. You should have winterized, at least use an air compressor to blow out the lines.
I was thinking the 12VDC power still comes from the batteries even when plugged into shore and the converter/charger is keeping the batteries operational. I know when I removed the batteries today, there was no 12VDC even when plugged into shore.

If I understand you correctly, are you saying the converter/charger supplies 12VDC instead of the batteries when plugged into shore?

Interestingly, with no batteries in the AS, I plugged in the TV and everything worked great... 12VDC, 120VAC...all worked great.
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Old 01-21-2019, 02:56 PM   #11
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When you plugged in the TV you were supplying 12 volts via the charge line from the TV to the trailer. It sounds like you might have a failed converter.
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Old 01-21-2019, 03:42 PM   #12
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Update: Interstate read the batteries their last rites. Replaced them, along with a small pro-rate. Installed them and everything is working. Initially, the display by the dinette said 12.4VDC, which concerned me a little. I couldn't tell if the converter was running or not when I stuck my head down there to listen. So I ran an errand... and when I returned in 15 minutes, the display showed 13.7VDC. This is good!

Oh- my little space heater brought it up to 40 degrees inside

Can I reasonably deduce that the charger is working, and the batteries were shot? Problem solved?
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Old 01-21-2019, 04:28 PM   #13
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You are a few days away from another set of bad batteries

Quote:
Originally Posted by DougC27 View Post
Update: Interstate read the batteries their last rites. Replaced them, along with a small pro-rate. Installed them and everything is working. Initially, the display by the dinette said 12.4VDC, which concerned me a little. I couldn't tell if the converter was running or not when I stuck my head down there to listen. So I ran an errand... and when I returned in 15 minutes, the display showed 13.7VDC. This is good!

Oh- my little space heater brought it up to 40 degrees inside

Can I reasonably deduce that the charger is working, and the batteries were shot? Problem solved?
In my opinion, no! With the batteries removed and plugged into shore power, everything 12V should have been working, just like it did when you plugged in the TV. Either your converter is bad and not supplying power or there is a bad connection, fuse, or circuit breaker that is keeping the converter power from getting to the trailer circuits and batteries. This is what killed your original batteries.

If you have a meter, disconnect the batteries and start at the converter following the wires until you find the place where you don't have 12V. There may be fuses on the converter itself.

Al
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Old 01-21-2019, 04:50 PM   #14
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"I did notice that the little red light on the AS end of the 50A cable isn't lit- but that might be a coincidence or unrelated".

It is unrelated, it only lights up if you are connected to 50 amps and the power is making it from the pedestal to that trailer end of your power cord.

Can't give you any better advice than you've been getting on your bigger issue. Good luck.

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