12V electrical not working... temp 20 degrees!

[Tuco]

Originally Posted by DougC27

Converter has 120VAC (measured in the wire after the breaker...so the breaker is not tripped).

I turned the battery disconnect switch off and the three terminals on the front of the converter/charger read 11.3VDC.

Then in addition, disconnected both batteries. The three terminals on front of the converter/charger read 4.3VDC.

But I'm not even sure if that's where the output voltage of the converter is measured.Attachment 332124

If you are connected to shore power and are only getting 4.3v with the batteries disconnected, then the converter is more than likely bad. I am assuming you have solar also? That would explain the 4.3v probably. Hit up google to find out where you should see voltage on your converter to make sure you are measuring in the correct place. Also look at the trouble shooting section to determine if there is a fuse in the unit (or something else) that may be bad. Remember, isolate each system in turn and test each item, batteries, solar and converter.

[Al and Missy]

The label next to the terminals is for a fuse. Did you check it? It is apparently in the 12V line as it is a 30A 32V fuse.

Al

[Baby Zeppelin]

You wrote:
"I did notice that the little red light on the AS end of the 50A cable isn't lit- but that might be a coincidence or unrelated".

If there is no 110v going into the trailer the converter isn't going to charge the batteries and you won't have any electricity after awhile.

Are you sure the breaker at the power pole isn't just tripped?

We had a similar problem on our maiden voyage a year ago and it was the solenoid controlled by the store/run switch at the door turning itself off. Dealer corrected that.

[DougC27]

Originally Posted by Al and Missy

The label next to the terminals is for a fuse. Did you check it? It is apparently in the 12V line as it is a 30A 32V fuse.

Al

There are two 30A auto-type fuses on the front of the converter/charger. I've checked them repeatedly throughout testing. They're good to go. Even checked them for continuity with the multimeter.

[DougC27]

Originally Posted by Baby Zeppelin

You wrote:
"I did notice that the little red light on the AS end of the 50A cable isn't lit- but that might be a coincidence or unrelated".

If there is no 110v going into the trailer the converter isn't going to charge the batteries and you won't have any electricity after awhile.

Are you sure the breaker at the power pole isn't just tripped?

We had a similar problem on our maiden voyage a year ago and it was the solenoid controlled by the store/run switch at the door turning itself off. Dealer corrected that.

I've got 110VAC. Also checked the outlet I'm plugged into at home for proper wiring. I know the 12VDC system is working when I replaced the batteries, and when I connect to the TV. I think we've isolated the issue to be the converter/charger. I'll order another tomorrow and install it. I'll update when I know something.

[ChuckFeldt]

You may be expeincing half house power. Though no one admits it. You have a 240v trailer. Your 120v to 240v adaptor may not be suppying current to the converter. You saw 12.5v dc battery current initially. Now the batteries are depleated. But charge from the TV or a charger. Also the Store/Use switch and relay may be trublesome at low battery voltage. There are other threads on this issue.

[Voltair]

In Short go to your battery +terminal disconect it, with your DC meter read battery then read the + terminal that you just took off = 13v thereabouts. With AC pluged in and isolator switches all on....

[DougC27]

Originally Posted by ChuckFeldt

You may be expeincing half house power. Though no one admits it. You have a 240v trailer. Your 120v to 240v adaptor may not be suppying current to the converter. You saw 12.5v dc battery current initially. Now the batteries are depleated. But charge from the TV or a charger. Also the Store/Use switch and relay may be trublesome at low battery voltage. There are other threads on this issue.

There is a wire leading from breaker #6, which goes directly to the converter. I tested that with shore power, it measured 118VAC. I replaced the batteries before this test and the same symptoms existed with brand new, fully charged batteries for the time I had them hooked up.

You bring up an interesting point about the TV, though. It must be wired to the 12VDC panel to have powered it with the converter/charger suspected of failing. I'm not familiar with that and haven't run across any documentation stating how it's wired.

I'm not sure if the charger was not functioning... I had crappy batteries and haven't tested that with the new ones. But once I disconnected the batteries, and the converter wasn't converting and wasn't powering the 12VDC side, I'm pretty sure the converter is shot anyway.

[Totlh]

I'm watching and learning. Please keep us posted.

[DougC27]

Originally Posted by Totlh

I'm watching and learning. Please keep us posted.

Will do! Talked to Randy at BestConverter. I'm replacing the converter/charger with the Boondocker 1260HWL. He said it's a pretty straight-forward replacement that hundreds of people have done on their own. It'll be here in two days. [emoji4]

[DougC27]

First, I am so happy to have all the input on this thread. You are all a truly awesome force for good in the world! THANK YOU.

Now another question.... it got down to 19 degrees last night. Space heater is keeping it above freezing inside the AS. Faucets open. Drain outside frozen, but open (I know... I'm a dummy. But hopefully gives ice somehwere to expand to besides out the side of a pex pipe).

It dawned on me that I might be able to hook up my batteries again, and put an external charger on them to keep them charged. I don't know why I didn't think of this before. BUT.... I'm not positive this will work. I'm thinking I can just monitor the batteries (as if I were boondocking), and then hook up the charger, when needed, to top off the batteries just as I would use a generator.

If I can get the 12VDC side of the house working, I get my tank heaters back, as well as the Alde system!

Am I thinking correctly on this temporary solution (until my replacement converter/charger arrives)???

[Al and Missy]

Yes, an external charger across the batteries could work, but you have to balance it with the expected load. You would have to figure out what everything that runs off of 12 volts draws, add them all up and get a charger at least that size. I’m not familiar with the newer trailers so I can’t help you with that. If you have an Alde system and the pump runs from 12 volts, that’s one example. The fridge draws a little, even when on propane, lights, etc.

Al

[DougC27]

Update on external battery charger.... kind of a bust. Although it kept the batteries up, the Alde and, in particular the tank heaters are too much of an energy hog for the charger to keep up with. This may be a function of the charger itself. But in my case, wasn't effective.

So I just stuck with the space heater.

[DougC27]

Update.... RESOLUTION!

After following all the great troubleshooting advice you all gave, replacing the batteries (which Interstate confirmed they were shot), replacing the Converter/Charger was the fix.

I got the Boondocker 1260HW from Bestconverter.com after speaking with Randy. The switch out was fairly straight-forward. Before I reconnected the batteries, I plugged into shore power and the house VDC went to 13.8! Everything started working correctly.

I videoed the change-out and one day, after some editing, I'll post it here.

Thanks all for your responses and advice!

[Totlh]

Originally Posted by DougC27

Update.... RESOLUTION!

After following all the great troubleshooting advice you all gave, replacing the batteries (which Interstate confirmed they were shot), replacing the Converter/Charger was the fix.

I got the Boondocker 1260HW from Bestconverter.com after speaking with Randy. The switch out was fairly straight-forward. Before I reconnected the batteries, I plugged into shore power and the house VDC went to 13.8! Everything started working correctly.

I videoed the change-out and one day, after some editing, I'll post it here.

Thanks all for your responses and advice!

Great news.

[Pearl54FC]

We have a 2017 Classic 30’ and are on our 4th converter. Bad converter is my guess.

[DougC27]

Originally Posted by Pearl54FC

We have a 2017 Classic 30’ and are on our 4th converter. Bad converter is my guess.

4th!!! Yikes! It was a bad converter.

What make/model did/are you installing after the factory installed converter?

[69SoulShine]

looking forward to that installation video!