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Darkspeed · 07-17-2011, 02:25 PM

O crap now it is on!

Darkspeed · 07-17-2011, 02:29 PM

Now I need to decide on a height.. 6"...8"...12"?

Inland RV Center, In · 07-17-2011, 03:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Darkspeed

Can't find the thread

We raised a 1936 Airstream shell, 9 inches, many years ago.

Andy

Darkspeed · 07-17-2011, 05:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Inland RV Center, In

We raised a 1936 Airstream shell, 9 inches, many years ago.

Andy

How did it turn out?

Inland RV Center, In · 07-17-2011, 10:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Darkspeed

How did it turn out?

Great, but it missed the movie "Mars attacks" by Tim Burton.

Andy

Darkspeed · 07-18-2011, 07:32 PM

This is what I am kicking around.

Stem wall of 1.5" square tubing welded to the outriggers.

Aluminum L and U isolate the outer skin from the steel tube.

Square tube frame is at a 3.5 Deg tilt to match lines of existing skin

Aluminum L and U are bolted to tube frame with paint on isolation.

Darkspeed · 07-18-2011, 08:20 PM

better detail

Wabbiteer · 07-18-2011, 10:50 PM

I feel like the instant expert since I slept in an airstream last night - and patched over the battery compartment a while back, but in this humble tin-benders opinion you're pushing way too much everything into a proven design...

The shell modification must be followed through with semi-monocoque design - go with rib extensions spliced in and covered with .040 2024 - and terminate ribs as exists already in your trailer - you're just adding in forty or so eighteen-inch rib extensions and stiffening it with the exterior shell panel via bucked rivets, then finishing with interior .032 panels...

There may be some fudging the shell-floor width if the shell isn't a 90° square to the floor at that interface, and I'm glad its not me figuring out the radiused corners...

Wsmith · 07-19-2011, 01:45 AM

The coefficient of linear expansion of steel is twice that of aluminum. ( 1.2 for steel and 2.4 for aluminum) It might be better to use all aluminum because the skin will grow and shrink twice the distance as the steel frame. I think Wabbiteer is right on.

Gene · 07-19-2011, 04:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Darkspeed

Now I need to decide on a height.. 6"...8"...12"?

Any of those heights will be difficult. Unless you are emaciated, 6" or 8" will be very hard to crawl under. I suggest 12" or one foot is the best of the three, you might consider going higher. With 12" you still will be able to tow into those parking garages with the low roofs

Gene

Darkspeed · 07-19-2011, 08:02 PM

Wabbiteer , Wsmith good point on the aluminum ribs and that was my first thought, but.. I am not comfortable with splicing an aluminum rib with rivets. If done wrong it will quickly become a pivot point. I have seen it done with rivets and an epoxy system. Just straight rivets would require two really good mating surfaces and a lot of rivets in pattern in each rib. I would feel comfortable splicing an aluminum rib with a tig... but that is a lot of tig time to do all the ribs. My other issue is I have deleted a few of the outriggers to make room for battery compartments so I need to add some structure to span those areas. this is how I arrived at the square tube sub frame.

I will be running a risk with the expansion rate but it is only a 12" span and I am not sure there is much linear expansion in the existing ribs.

Gene... good point

worldinchaos · 07-19-2011, 08:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CrawfordGene

Any of those heights will be difficult. Unless you are emaciated, 6" or 8" will be very hard to crawl under. I suggest 12" or one foot is the best of the three, you might consider going higher. With 12" you still will be able to tow into those parking garages with the low roofs

Gene

Sorry Darkspeed, but I'm going to have to second Gene on this one, and even be daring enough to say you might want more than 12". Maybe 16"?

On a real note, how tall are you/ what's the current interior height (or what was it before you had lift off). I'm 6'3" with a 6'5" interior on my trailer and if I had more time and experience with metal work I would love to add a few inches, however I will have to settle for living vicariously.

Airslide · 07-19-2011, 08:49 PM

Im just amazed at how much progress you make on the airstream not to mention the cad drawings and all the time spent on the forums updating us? Do you ever sleep? lol

Vinnie

Inland RV Center, In · 07-19-2011, 08:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Darkspeed

Wabbiteer , Wsmith good point on the aluminum ribs and that was my first thought, but.. I am not comfortable with splicing an aluminum rib with rivets. If done wrong it will quickly become a pivot point. I have seen it done with rivets and an epoxy system. Just straight rivets would require two really good mating surfaces and a lot of rivets in pattern in each rib. I would feel comfortable splicing an aluminum rib with a tig... but that is a lot of tig time to do all the ribs. My other issue is I have deleted a few of the outriggers to make room for battery compartments so I need to add some structure to span those areas. this is how I arrived at the square tube sub frame.

I will be running a risk with the expansion rate but it is only a 12" span and I am not sure there is much linear expansion in the existing ribs.

Gene... good point

Aluminum main bows, are spliced all the time, especially when creating a "custom" trailer, without any real danger or problems.

The keys are simple.

Use nothing but the same materials.

Use 3/16 pop rivets.

Make super sure that the running gear is properly balanced.

Andy

Darkspeed · 07-19-2011, 08:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by worldinchaos

Sorry Darkspeed, but I'm going to have to second Gene on this one, and even be daring enough to say you might want more than 12". Maybe 16"?

On a real note, how tall are you/ what's the current interior height (or what was it before you had lift off). I'm 6'3" with a 6'5" interior on my trailer and if I had more time and experience with metal work I would love to add a few inches, however I will have to settle for living vicariously.

Well I think I am set on 12". My frame mod has added 5" already so any taller and it will start to look a little Dr. Seuss...

The factory height was 6.5' - I am 5'11" -- well this should be good for a laugh if nothing else..

Darkspeed · 07-19-2011, 09:03 PM

Thanks Airslide.. No I dont sleep much

worldinchaos · 07-20-2011, 03:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Darkspeed

Thanks Airslide.. No I dont sleep much

Probably because you don't have enough Airstreams to count as they fly over a fence. Sounds like it's time to buy some more.

Then maybe your pace will slow down so we don't all feel like snails on our projects...jk

Darkspeed · 07-20-2011, 11:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by worldinchaos

Probably because you don't have enough Airstreams to count as they fly over a fence. Sounds like it's time to buy some more.

Then maybe your pace will slow down so we don't all feel like snails on our projects...jk

Noooooooo. have to finish this one first....

worldinchaos · 07-21-2011, 10:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Darkspeed

Noooooooo. have to finish this one first....

Oh so then a 1967 International Ambassador 30 footer doesn't make you interested?

Just think... with your style of frame work it could be a car hauler with rear loading doors. Or you could put in a full bar with sofas at one end and make it the local hangout at rallies

Ok I'm horrible, I'll stop..

Darkspeed · 07-21-2011, 11:52 AM

I would have to go with the hydraulically actuated "pop up" two story airstream, first floor would become a screened in porch / mini bar when deployed