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Old 05-23-2014, 07:08 PM   #1
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2013 27' FB Eddie Bauer
Spearfish , South Dakota
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Triumph in the back

What I’m using is a 8’ X 10” folding ramp resting on the storage door lip. I didn’t want to tweak the storage door, for it flexes. This is why the mini ramp rests on the big ramp, no load. The other end of the mini ramp is glued to a rubber strip to keep it from digging into the lino. and this sets on the high point of the hatch jamb.
I’m using the front pair of stock tie downs to secure the front wheel capture/Baxley chock from traveling forward. Then I added a heavier set of tie downs for the side to side, using only three straps.
The bikes front wheel center line is about 6” forward of the rear tandem center line, off to the right a bit so I can squeeze past the left handlebar, yet still open the fridge.
Place a step along side the ramp, then off to the side, I power the bike up the ramp, and catch the front wheel chock, easy peazy.
I’ve towed it twice now(200 miles), my only issue is the strap that holds the Baxley is stretching, and allowing the chock to twist off a bit. I have two ideas for my next move to try.
The ride hasn’t changed, no tossed cupboards, no porpoising, the bike weighs under 500 #, and I have yet to weigh my rig.
No issues with gas fumes, wet spots, doesn’t stink when I get there, no vents open in transit.

Pix in my gallery for thru the ages archives, click on images
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Old 06-13-2014, 03:06 PM   #2
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2012 25' FB Eddie Bauer
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I have basically the same setup for my street bike. Baxley chock in the front with straps to the d-rings and the other 4 straps angling backwards to help secure the side to side movement. I contacted AS and asked about the strength of the drings and they said they are screwed into the frame rails with self tapping screws. I am planning on taking off the belly pan and changing out the drings to something more substantial or possibly the system used in the panamerica. Have you had any problems with your bike shifting? My baxley dents in the floor so I ended up putting the door mat under it.
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Old 06-14-2014, 12:20 PM   #3
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2013 27' FB Eddie Bauer
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The baxley is twisting, I have been looping the front strap around the front upright. When the strap stretches after a few miles the baxley is off center, & one side strap is loose. The loop is causing the issue, unequal length with the stretch. I'm thought of trying without the loop, but because it isn't exactly centered I think it will move.
Now I'm thinking about something that won't stretch, like steel cable/chain. Weld loops on the front outrigger ends of the chock for centering leverage, then cable to the stock front D-rings.
As to the dents in the lino, my genny's rubber feet makes them too, they will smooth out in a few days. That clamping wheel ramp of the baxley will scratch up diamond plate aluminum, lino will show wear, I'm using newspaper sections currently.
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Old 06-15-2014, 08:48 PM   #4
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We use a tailgate protector that was removed from a previous truck to protect the linoleum but also add some OSB+ in/outdoor carpet to more evenly distribute the weight over the floor. Our issue has been that the screen will not always retract all the way... haven't yet moved the 1200GS but XT250 is easy.
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Old 06-16-2014, 08:51 AM   #5
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I put my ramp lip right under the rubber weather stripping on the back, then I loop 2 straps around the ramp 3 feet back and attach one to each dog tie out. That way the ramp will stay centered and has no chance of coming off the lip. Also, I don't have any straps on the baxley, it is held in place by the pressure of the front wheel. I use handlebar tiedown straps (all local MC shops have them) for the front and in the back I just loop it around the highest point on the frame. If you want I can take some pics.
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Old 06-16-2014, 09:04 AM   #6
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Here is a suggestion if you have not tried, or thought about, I use a "canyon dancer" bar harness to secure my sportbike when transporting to the track. Since it is equally pulling on both left and right bars, the wheel cannot turn left to right at all.
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Old 08-03-2014, 12:57 PM   #7
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I modded my baxley with welded chain links and cable leads. I've found that the rubber backed bath rug also helps in killing the twist.
I haven't hauled with the mod yet, I won't leave until I sell the 5er, , ,
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Old 08-03-2014, 01:08 PM   #8
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Third try on posting pix
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Old 08-05-2014, 12:23 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nddstl View Post
I contacted AS and asked about the strength of the drings and they said they are screwed into the frame rails with self tapping screws.
Hmmm... my self tapping screws for the D-rings were stripped out on several holes on first day of delivery. Check to make sure that your screws have washers under the heads so that the head does not slip through the hole in the D-rings ... all of this had to be done when we picked up our EB ... after the service dept folks had left ...and before we could secure the bike. Fortunately we had just the 250 and not the 1200. But I can tell you that I discovered multiple holes where the original install bolts had been over torqued and a new hole drilled. My D-ring mounting points do not line up over frame points and after measuring, I doubt that yours do either ... the lags appear to be screwed into the wood flooring ONLY. I asked my dealer two weeks ago to check with AS for a plan to make the D-ring attachments more secure.
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Old 08-05-2014, 11:46 AM   #10
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Very little vertical pull, mostly lateral, and washers, so I'm trusting the integrity of the lag bolt not to lose its' head. Those are the only stock D rings that I use.
I tie off on the buddy peg brackets to shorten the straps and less top heavy leverage/vertical pull.
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Old 08-06-2014, 08:42 AM   #11
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I have attached the datasheet that the Airstream Rep. sent me showing the frame rails and D-Ring anchor points. Below are quotes from the AS engineer. I first asked him about how the D-Rings are anchored in the current set up and then I asked how difficult it would be to put in a set up like the PanAmerica.

"The tie-downs are fastened with self-tapping bolts that pass thru the floor, thru 20 ga galvanised sheet and then into the top section of the main chassis rails."
"This set-up was really designed for kayaks etc. and is not really be located optimally for holding down a motorcycle. We do not have a formal rating for the tie-downs."

"Yes there was a system of longitudinal rails in PanAmerica, running along the same location/line as the current tie-downs. The central area of the bellypan can be removed by drilling out the rivets, in order to access the frame rail. That would then give the opportunity to bolt-thru. Alternatively, the rails could instead be attached from the top-side by using multiple 1/4/ 20 2”screws which would pass thru the floor and galvanized sheet and into the top of the chassis rails."
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File Type: pdf Eddie Bauer Tie Downs.pdf (72.9 KB, 68 views)
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Old 08-06-2014, 11:21 AM   #12
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Very nice datasheet ... if only it was followed ...and the frame rails / attachment points were in the proper relative locations. Check your through holes with a flex camera or bore scope. They missed completely on mine! The 2013 seemed OK, but not the 2015.
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Old 08-06-2014, 12:51 PM   #13
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It appears that only the aft 4 tiedowns are on the frame rails. According to the drawing, the forward 2 are 7 inches closer together. I will measure mine tonight. Thanks for posting the drawing.
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Old 08-07-2014, 10:48 AM   #14
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To me it looks like the 4 rear anchors are bolted to the main frame rail and the two front anchors are bolted to a cross member. I wonder if you could use a stud finder on the floor to help map out the cross members.
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