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Old 06-26-2016, 08:31 PM   #71
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Also checking my solar controller and the previous pictures I took, it seems AS did not clip the blue jumper as instructed for sealed batteries as stated in the instructions:

http://atkinsonelectronics.com/manuf...dfs/PVCM25.pdf

I wonder if the factory personnel get any training on these items.

Bettle: is the sound you are hearing under the sofa "clicking"? According to the manual above, the clicking sound is normal from the solar controller.
I'll have to check the state of the blue jumper the next time I am at my trailer.
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Old 06-26-2016, 08:37 PM   #72
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Randy at Bestconverter.com got back to me with this:

http://www.bestconverter.com/Paralla...e_ep_25-1.html

Look's a pretty good solution that I will order up. I'll have to check the length and gauge wire from mid-cabin charger to the battery terminal under the sofa to make sure I don't push too many amps through that cable while charging. I assume it's a 6 gauge wire, meaning it's too thin and long for 70 amp charging.
Here is a link to an even better install of a PowerMax Boodocker inside the gutted case of a Parallax 5355 converter:
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f449...ll-152255.html
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Old 06-26-2016, 09:26 PM   #73
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Here is a link to an even better install of a PowerMax Boodocker inside the gutted case of a Parallax 5355 converter:
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f449...ll-152255.html


One thing I find most odd, is these other converters really don't seem them much more expensive than the Parallax. I wonder why AS decided to get with that piece of junk, unless they get massive discounts on it or something.
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Old 06-26-2016, 10:07 PM   #74
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One thing I find most odd, is these other converters really don't seem them much more expensive than the Parallax. I wonder why AS decided to get with that piece of junk, unless they get massive discounts on it or something.
The ONLY benefit I see to their decision to use the Parallax is that as a single stage controller, it provides a consistent voltage to the LED interior lights meaning more consistent brightness. LEDs can be more voltage sensitive than the older incandescent or fluorescent lights. Chances are that when a multi-stage charger switches charging voltages it might be discernible to occupants as a dimming or brightening of the LED interior lights. This might be more disconcerting than the dimming that occurs when you turn on the furnace or water pump when boondocking because you are not the one initiating the change that causes the brightness variation. The charger is making the change on its own at a time it decides.

I certainly hope that they did not do it because the LED lights were not validated to the higher voltages put out by the multi-stage chargers. In the automotive industry, all electric and electronic components are validated to at least 16.0V because generators/alternators can go as high as 15.5 or so volts under some conditions. This is a similar voltage that some multi-stage converter/charges can put out. Hopefully the lights in Airstreams are validated to at least 16.0V. If not, they may burn out quicker with a multi-stage converter that puts out more voltage than the stock 13.6V.
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Old 06-26-2016, 10:46 PM   #75
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Interesting Joe, I guess we'll find out over time if the LED's start wearing out prematurely.
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Old 06-26-2016, 11:05 PM   #76
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The led brightness does not change whatsoever in either of my trailers with 9280 converters when the voltage swings. Even when I manually switch from storage mode to boost mode, the led brightness does NOT change or flicker.

There is only one incandescent bulb in one of the trailers over the stove that noticeably gets brighter and dimmer when the 9280 changes modes. This is the ONLY light that changes as it is the only incandescent bulb in the trailer; the change in voltage is NOT discernable with any of the leds.
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Old 06-26-2016, 11:14 PM   #77
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Oh great, I just changed out our perfectly functional stock single stage converter for a 3-stage converter because everyone says it's a piece of crap. Never has a single equipment failure in five years, 1000 nights camping. We charge the batteries with our factory solar. (The factory solar controller does make a clicking sound, btw.)

Maybe the consistent factory converter 13.6v output wasn't so bad after all? We still have the original converter stored in the garage.
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Old 06-26-2016, 11:41 PM   #78
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Oh great, I just changed out our perfectly functional stock single stage converter for a 3-stage converter because everyone says it's a piece of crap. Never has a single equipment failure in five years, 1000 nights camping.
If you keep posting that your Airstream is 100% perfect (without any corrosion anywhere and with a Parallax that magically doesn't boil batteties) over and over in multiple threads it just might come true!

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Old 06-27-2016, 06:31 AM   #79
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Rarestream, we have never charged our batteries with with the Parallax, we use the Battery Disconnect to isolate the batteries from it and let our factory solar charge them. The Parallax is an excellent converter otherwise.

I can't help it that we like our Airstream, it has no corrosion because we maintain it, and that it has had no original equipment failures, sorry about that.
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Old 06-27-2016, 07:06 AM   #80
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The Parallax is an excellent converter
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Old 06-27-2016, 07:16 AM   #81
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It is a good converter, it just requires owner attention to battery maintenance. Some of us can do that, obviously others can't.
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Old 06-27-2016, 08:42 AM   #82
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Originally Posted by Zybane View Post
Also checking my solar controller and the previous pictures I took, it seems AS did not clip the blue jumper as instructed for sealed batteries as stated in the instructions:

http://atkinsonelectronics.com/manuf...dfs/PVCM25.pdf

I wonder if the factory personnel get any training on these items.

Bettle: is the sound you are hearing under the sofa "clicking"? According to the manual above, the clicking sound is normal from the solar controller.

It is a noticeable ping like a small bell
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Old 06-27-2016, 08:54 AM   #83
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The convertor in the airstream is good but a 4 stage convertor is better. It charges your batteries in such a way to get the most life out of them. Once you price AGM batteries you will want to get all that you can from them. That being said they only work when hooked up so why they are called boondocking units I don't know. Also a 55 amp unit is all that you should need. The bigger amp units only charge faster and to me push to much into the batteries at first. Why someone needs a 80 and up beats me. If you maintain your trailer good the parallax will be just fine. As far as the LEDs burning out faster well they are going on fast with what is supplied in the trailer. We need to remember that this is not a house hooked up to steady 200 amp power but something hooked up to 30 to 50 amp unknown power. Things will dim or burn out.
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Old 06-27-2016, 07:49 PM   #84
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The led brightness does not change whatsoever in either of my trailers with 9280 converters when the voltage swings. Even when I manually switch from storage mode to boost mode, the led brightness does NOT change or flicker.

There is only one incandescent bulb in one of the trailers over the stove that noticeably gets brighter and dimmer when the 9280 changes modes. This is the ONLY light that changes as it is the only incandescent bulb in the trailer; the change in voltage is NOT discernable with any of the leds.
That's good to hear. We definitely notice dimming of some of the interior LED lights when turning on a large 12V electric load like the furnace blower or water pump when not connected to shore power (or when our converter failed) and the battery voltage dropped by 0.5V or more as confirmed on the monitor panel.

As a retired automotive engineer, we were taught that the light output of simple resistor limited LED lights can be very voltage sensitive. More complicated LED lights exist that are controlled by a constant current source and are thus not voltage sensitive. This type is more expensive, so I wouldn't have expected Airstream to use that type in their trailers. Maybe they did.
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