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Old 06-11-2016, 09:46 PM   #43
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Can anyone recommend the wire to splice into for the awning control cut off switch install?

Do I need to kill the power to the whole Zipdee control board or just the panel switch? Curious as to why the awning would ever open going down the road that some people have reported.
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Old 06-13-2016, 09:44 AM   #44
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Cut power to the whole unit. I put a small switch by the control board and ran wires to the unit
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Old 06-13-2016, 01:51 PM   #45
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Cut power to the whole unit. I put a small switch by the control board and ran wires to the unit
Thanks Beetle, I will look into this soon.

Also, anyone's factory solar ever act up?

It's a bright sunny day today, but my Classic in storage mode is only showing battery at 85% (12.4v) and zero amps being drawn from solar... I am hoping this is some sort of battery level management trickle charge and my factory solar isn't broken.
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Old 06-13-2016, 03:56 PM   #46
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Had the 30 amp fuses in the box short out. Did it 3 times over several days then just ran great. Don't know what caused that but had the same thing happen to my battery voltage
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Old 06-13-2016, 04:05 PM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zybane View Post
Thanks Beetle, I will look into this soon.

Also, anyone's factory solar ever act up?

It's a bright sunny day today, but my Classic in storage mode is only showing battery at 85% (12.4v) and zero amps being drawn from solar... I am hoping this is some sort of battery level management trickle charge and my factory solar isn't broken.


I don't use the factory solar system but is it actually wired to still charge the battery bank from the panels while in "Store" mode?
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Old 06-13-2016, 04:32 PM   #48
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Yes, factory system always charges when there is sun
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Old 06-13-2016, 04:45 PM   #49
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Had the 30 amp fuses in the box short out. Did it 3 times over several days then just ran great. Don't know what caused that but had the same thing happen to my battery voltage
Wow thats actually kinda scary why it would short out that much with no explanation.

Did you look for water cue's? Are the fuses that you mentioned shorting the ones under the sofa?
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Old 06-13-2016, 05:20 PM   #50
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In the main fuse box. Being a ASE master mechanic and a master RV tech I looked everywhere. Nothing found. Plan on in the future of changing out the airstream stuff with better products. For now I am in the middle of the Yellowstone park and hard to research and get parts. Piss poor internet
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Old 06-13-2016, 05:57 PM   #51
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Beetle bob, I thought we figured out what happened! You'd had work done on your window at JC, and they (probably) had disconnected your battery. When they reconnected it, they may have put the pos on the neg and the neg on the pos -- which causes those two 30amp fuses to blow. I didn't know it happened two more times. Very weird, especially since it hasn't happened again. Nothing is more frustrating than an "intermittent" electrical issue. Hope you and Page are having some fun at Yellowstone....and that you are done with major cold weather!
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Old 06-14-2016, 07:57 AM   #52
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Babs. Nope I looked almost everywhere and found nothing. Only thing I didn't do was pull the fuse box out. Saving that for when I change my convertor/charger. Problem just went away. I have seen problems like that a lot in my 40 years of fixing cars and I must of touched something but will probably never know what. Researching what convertor to get to replace what the factory puts in. Open question to all who read this what do you recommend. I see some nice 4 stage units out there. Want something that will fit where the old one is. Babs finished the upgrade on the trailer hitch so I don't hit the trailer when backing up (I hope). Airsafe hitch people at the factory were great. Yellowstone is nice and having fun watching the seasons wake up but it has somewhat turned into a job. Good money and needed after the damage though. Hate to think what yours was. Life goes on and off to Yuma in November to our next job.
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Old 06-20-2016, 02:48 PM   #53
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Bought some parts to continue my mods.

1. Progressive 50 AMP surge protector which will also allow me to see the pedestal voltage.
2. Hughes 50 AMP voltage booster.
3. Some #6-3 copper cable.

Those items above will be installed up against the wall inside the fridge compartment, which would allow them to vent outside if anything shorts out. Fans will be installed at the top of the fridge vent and at the bottom vent intake to make sure there is plenty of air in there with this:

https://www.arprv.com/purchase.php

May also install in the fridge compartment an automatic fire extinguisher.

For internet needs, I have the following equipment inbound:

weBoost 471104 Connect 4G-X Extreme Signal Booster Kit 471104 1 $899.99
SureCall Full Band Fiberglass Omnidirectional Antenna (CM288W) CM288W 1 $79.95
Microlab 1 Meter Plenum Low-PIM Jumper Cable (JA-10MN) JA-10MN 1 $65.00
Wilson 10' Ultra Low Loss Coax Cable (952310) 952310 1 $27.95
Microlab YA-14NF Low-PIM Mini Wide-Band Omni Antenna YA-14NF 1 $149.00

Tarheel lift and lay antenna mount.
WifiRanger with Go2 router.

All of that will be wired through the fridge vent and mounted just above the Blu-ray player area.
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Old 06-20-2016, 09:23 PM   #54
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So, I've been trying to figure out why the heck my factory solar is no longer working.

Panel on sunny day, zero amps:




Pic of the charge controller under the sofa and under the battery bus:




So, not sure why the charge controller green LED is lit on "full"?
The CAT 5 cable under the LED goes to the solar control panel in the kitchen.

Here is the solar wiring diagram:




The red and yellow wires going into the charge controllers have in-line fuses, both are labeled 1 AMP, not 10 AMP like the diagram shows.

I am also a bit confused as the diagram shows a fuse up in the electrical junction box under the solar panels, on the yellow wire? But there is a fuse on the yellow wire down by the charge controller... Not sure if they just relocated it, added a second fuse or what the heck.

Both fuses on the red and yellow wires immediately leading into the charge controller were not blown.

The only thing I can think of is that the fuse up on the roof (if it exists) in the junction box blew for whatever reason, too much sun? lol. Or the charge controller is bad... I guess I will have to get out the multimeter and start probing. I'd hate to take the trailer into a service shop and long drive just for this, looks fairly simple system. I just hope one of the wires didn't fray and short out inside the walls/ceiling, that would suck!

Any thoughts?
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Old 06-20-2016, 10:48 PM   #55
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As a starting point, are the batteries fully charged? If they are the "Solar Charge Amps" will show 0. The solar controller is basically an on-off switch, will turn on when the batteries fall to a certain voltage, dependent on temperature.

If you are plugged into shore power, the Solar Monitor will most probably never show any charge amps.
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Old 06-20-2016, 11:36 PM   #56
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No to both. The batteries are at 11.x volts now and decreasing. The solar control panel shows batteries at 45%, so the solar control box knows something isn't right. It's just not charging the batteries.
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