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Old 06-01-2016, 04:03 PM   #29
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Ramblings about 2016 Classic...

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Originally Posted by m.hony View Post
I was thinking Polk Audio are actually decent speakers.


Sent from my iPad using Airstream Forums


Speakers are decent, just positioning isn't very ideal....similar to all Airstreams. The head unit seems good....anything is better than the single knob Clarion I had in my FC. The designer of that should be dealt with Game of thrones style.
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Old 06-01-2016, 04:19 PM   #30
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I love the chestnut leather.
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Old 06-02-2016, 09:21 AM   #31
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My only major issue to the sound system is the lack of any speakers in the trailer's midsection. If you aren't either up front or in bed, the sound is pretty attenuated. My '12 28' Intl CCD had a couple (I think it was more than 1) speakers about midway in the ceiling. I suspect the ducted air did in those speakers. Of course, with the non-ducted version you had to crank up the volume pretty high to hear anything over the din of the A/C.
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Old 06-02-2016, 05:22 PM   #32
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Yup, the ducted air on the new trailers is pretty much what pushed me over the edge to purchase an Airstream. HUGE improvement.
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Old 06-03-2016, 03:18 AM   #33
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7
Quote:
Originally Posted by Zybane View Post
Does the solar charge the battery with the battery kill switch in "store" mode? I noticed that the propane detector still had a green light with the battery kill switch activated to "store". Just curious what is still getting power in the trailer in the "store" mode, of if the propane sensor has an internal battery.
Solar and propane detector are still connected when the storage switch is in "Store" position. So if you store outdoors, the solar will keep the batteries charged while in "Store" mode.

However, if you store your Classic indoors where the solar system cannot charge the batteries, the parasitic currents drawn by those two items will drain the batteries in a few weeks. Those two items have separate in-line fuses off the main bus bar under the sofa. I just installed switches in both wires after the fuses so that I can shut them off if we are going to store the trailer for more than a week or two, since we cannot leave it plugged in inside the storage unit.
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Old 06-03-2016, 08:26 AM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zybane View Post
22. Infinity flooring is quite nice. I like that it, combined with the plywood floor has a bit of give. Definitely not a fan of plywood floors though. I think they could do better than that for a few dollars more.
I will start off by saying we LOVE our 2016 Calssic, but the Infinity flooring is the feature we HATE the most in it. This floor cannot be easily swept up when small stones or dust bunnies get on it. Worse, it will not come clean from the day we picked the trailer up 11 months ago. Walk around in white socks and the bottoms quickly turn brown. This happened our first day in the trailer and continues to this day. I have scrubbed the floor end to end on my hands and knees three times and that did not clean it. It was professionally steam cleaned and by that same evening our socks were again turning brown. We are wondering if anyone else has this same problem or did we get defective flooring?

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29. Love that a few main lights have dimmer feature. Pure on/off lighting for the main lights is annoying.
We couldn't agree more on the fact that NONE of the lights are dimmable except the awning lights on our 2016, yet most lights, including main cabin lights are dimmable in less expensive models such as the discontinued Eddie Bauers. The main cabin lights, hallway lights, and bath lights can be the most offensive at full intensity in our 2016 Classic. Are you stating that your 2016 Classic has dimmable main cabin lights? If so, I'd like to see how this was implemented and might was to convert our very early 2016 to the same design (it didn't look easy, with the 6-way ganged light switch near the door, so I did not try).

I did buy a switch/dimmer (same one that is used for the awning rope lights on our 2016 Classic and the same one used for various lights in the Eddie Bauer we toured) and installed it in the bathroom to replace the single on/off switch there, so that we can at least dim those lights as necessary. I had to enlarge the hole in the aluminum, but then it just replaced the original single switch. We think the black switch/dimmer looks better next to the black water heater switch than the original silver switch Airstream provided. A word of caution if someone copies this idea. The switch/dimmer must be installed with the correct polarity and there is a metal case on the back of the switch/dimmer that ends up at a 12 volt potential when the power is turned back on (you always turn the power of when doing electrical work). Since the metal case is in close proximity to the hole in the aluminum shell, I would recommend you slightly oversize the hole and wrap the edge of the metal case in electrical tape to prevent a short circuit from the case to the aluminum skin. We did this.

I did not get any photos of the dimmer during installation, but I will attach closeup photo of the bathroom switch/dimmer and a second photo showing at least partially all of the bathroom improvements we have made:
1. The Switch/Dimmer
2. A towel ring over the sink that matches the design and finish of the towel bar behind the toilet (no more need to reach for a hand towel behind the toilet with dripping hands).
3. A support board below the mirror and at least one of the six mirror clips we added around the mirror (we preferred to fix the mirror before ours fell off the wall and damaged something as several others have reported).

We had the mirror support board made by Roettger Hardwood in Kettlersville, OH (about 13 miles from Jackson Center). Since they are the original manufacturer for the cherry cabinets in our Classic, they were able to make the piece a perfect match in color and finish.

Roettger's has made other items for us and we have more on order from them. Perhaps some day I will start a thread showing all of the improvements we have made on our 2016 Classic.
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Old 06-03-2016, 08:53 AM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 66Overlander View Post
7
Solar and propane detector are still connected when the storage switch is in "Store" position. So if you store outdoors, the solar will keep the batteries charged while in "Store" mode.

However, if you store your Classic indoors where the solar system cannot charge the batteries, the parasitic currents drawn by those two items will drain the batteries in a few weeks. Those two items have separate in-line fuses off the main bus bar under the sofa. I just installed switches in both wires after the fuses so that I can shut them off if we are going to store the trailer for more than a week or two, since we cannot leave it plugged in inside the storage unit.
Joe, thanks for the info. It's good to know where those fuses are as I wasn't able to locate them in the main bus box under the wardrobe.

Speaking of power, I will install a 50 AMP power protector:

http://www.campingworld.com/shopping...-monitor/22150

I wonder if it would be easier/better placement under the rear dinette seat where the 50 AMP comes into the trailer, or put it over by the bus box under the wardrobe.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 66Overlander View Post
I will start off by saying we LOVE our 2016 Calssic, but the Infinity flooring is the feature we HATE the most in it. This floor cannot be easily swept up when small stones or dust bunnies get on it. Worse, it will not come clean from the day we picked the trailer up 11 months ago. Walk around in white socks and the bottoms quickly turn brown. This happened our first day in the trailer and continues to this day. I have scrubbed the floor end to end on my hands and knees three times and that did not clean it. It was professionally steam cleaned and by that same evening our socks were again turning brown. We are wondering if anyone else has this same problem or did we get defective flooring?


We couldn't agree more on the fact that NONE of the lights are dimmable except the awning lights on our 2016, yet most lights, including main cabin lights are dimmable in less expensive models such as the discontinued Eddie Bauers. The main cabin lights, hallway lights, and bath lights can be the most offensive at full intensity in our 2016 Classic. Are you stating that your 2016 Classic has dimmable main cabin lights? If so, I'd like to see how this was implemented and might was to convert our very early 2016 to the same design (it didn't look easy, with the 6-way ganged light switch near the door, so I did not try).

I did buy a switch/dimmer (same one that is used for the awning rope lights on our 2016 Classic and the same one used for various lights in the Eddie Bauer we toured) and installed it in the bathroom to replace the single on/off switch there, so that we can at least dim those lights as necessary. I had to enlarge the hole in the aluminum, but then it just replaced the original single switch. We think the black switch/dimmer looks better next to the black water heater switch than the original silver switch Airstream provided. A word of caution is someone copies this idea. The switch/dimmer must be installed with the correct polarity and there is a metal case on the back of the switch/dimmer that ends up at a 12 volt potential when the power is turned back on (you always turn the power of when doing electrical work). Since the metal case is in close proximity to the hole in the aluminum shell, you should slightly oversize the hole and wrap the edge of the Metal case in electrical tape to prevent a short circuit from the case to the aluminum skin.

I did not get any photos of the dimmer during installation, but I will attach closeup photo of the bathroom switch/dimmer and a second photo showing at least partially all of the bathroom improvements we have made:
1. The Switch/Dimmer
2. A towel ring over the sink that matches the design and finish of the towel bar behind the toilet (no more need to reach for a hand towel behind the toilet with dripping hands).
3. A support board below the mirror and at least one of the six mirror clips we added around the mirror (we preferred to fix the mirror before ours fell off the wall and damaged something as several others have reported).

We had the mirror support board made by Roettger Hardwood in Kettlersville, OH (about 13 miles from Jackson Center). Since they are the original manufacturer for the cherry cabinets in our Classic, they were able to make the piece a perfect match in color and finish.

Roettger's has made other items for us and we have more on order from them. Perhaps some day I will start a thread showing all of the improvements we have made on our 2016 Classic.
I would say I am a vacuumer and not a sweeper, so I guess in that respect the Infinity flooring hasn't been too bad for me. I could see if you spill something goopy on it, that could get annoying to clean due to the texture. I will have to really watch spilling stuff.

As for white socks, sounds like its just the coloring or some of the pigment wearing off and not dirt. I am a bare-footer in the trailer, but haven't checked the bottom of my feet. I guess I will next time!

Yes, my main cabin and bedroom overhead lights are dimmable. I will try and remember to take a picture next time I am in the trailer. Like you, I am thinking about adding even more dimmable switches.

As for the bathroom mirror, I am going to put a thin seal of clear silicone around the edge. I think that combined with the stock double stick tape should work fine. I am a fan of the clean borderless mirror and wish to preserve that.

Mine also has a towel hook to the left of the sink/mirror.
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Old 06-03-2016, 10:47 AM   #36
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Zybane,
It sounds like your later 2016 Classic has some definite upgrades from our early 2016 Classic (built and delivered in June 2015). The main cabin and bedroom dimmers would be nice and are something that we would still like to add. The towel ring in the bathroom would have been nice from the factory, but was an easy and inexpensive upgrade for us. I also believe that later 2016s, probably including yours got the little wooden blocks to depress the light plungers in the roof locker cabinets. Our early 2016 had little adhesive rubber bumpers that continually moved around causing the lights to stay on when the door was closed. We solved this by getting some matching wood blocks from Roettgers that we screwed into place ourselves. The attached photo is one installed in a side roof locker. The positioning of the wood block on the front and rear end roof lockers was different.
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Old 06-04-2016, 11:29 AM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 66Overlander View Post
Zybane,
It sounds like your later 2016 Classic has some definite upgrades from our early 2016 Classic (built and delivered in June 2015). The main cabin and bedroom dimmers would be nice and are something that we would still like to add. The towel ring in the bathroom would have been nice from the factory, but was an easy and inexpensive upgrade for us. I also believe that later 2016s, probably including yours got the little wooden blocks to depress the light plungers in the roof locker cabinets. Our early 2016 had little adhesive rubber bumpers that continually moved around causing the lights to stay on when the door was closed. We solved this by getting some matching wood blocks from Roettgers that we screwed into place ourselves. The attached photo is one installed in a side roof locker. The positioning of the wood block on the front and rear end roof lockers was different.
Joe, yes to the wooden blocks do keep the cabinet lights off. I went through and tested them all to make sure the lights weren't staying on.

Here are some pics of the later 2016 switch setup:





Definitely looks a bit cluttered compared to the 2017 integrated panel, but it does the job.


Also removed the two accordion dividers and that missing overhead bar really opened up the place.



I realized the bathroom door can pretty much block out any showering toweling off from the rest of the trailer for those rare instances, making the accordion dividers fairly moot with my setup.






I am a big fan of radiant heat (should have bought a 2017, ), looking into electric heating elements for the floor and side walls. The floor heating pads will be covered by a long 2 foot wide runner carpet running the length of the trailer with the pad underneath:

http://www.amazon.com/Warming-System...ywords=40+sqft


Also considering running some heat strip tape around the sides of the twin mattresses and under the mattress to assist with mitigating cold spots and condensation. Also looking into somehow hooking up a dehumidifier to the stock furnace duct work. The issue being, where do I send the water. If the water is led outside, it will just freeze and plug up the drain. May be some way to tap into the grey water tank..

Still have to put that darn awning kill switch somewhere. I found a nice spot right by the subwoofer under the rear dinette seat to mount my 50 AMP power protector.

Also, I will replace the stock sub-woofer. That is the biggest piece of junk (probably cost $20) and I will replace it with a real unit. For those that don't know, I think someone else mentioned, the frequency cutoff and volume switches are on the backside. No matter the position though, the sound is terrible. I may also replace the down-firing Polk speakers with forward facing-cabinet sunk units of high quality. The wiring will be tricky though.
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Old 06-04-2016, 04:10 PM   #38
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^ what tricky wiring do you anticipate? Isn't the downfiring speaker wiring right there that you can just extend to the front/side of the cabinet?
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Old 06-04-2016, 04:28 PM   #39
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^ what tricky wiring do you anticipate? Isn't the downfiring speaker wiring right there that you can just extend to the front/side of the cabinet?
For a good listening experience from being seated from the sofa, the two stereo speakers would be mounted on the side-face of the two overhead cabinets above the kitchen counter and dinette area that face the sofa. The speakers would be cut into the face of the cabinet and angled slightly down. If done properly and with great speakers, it should turn out pretty well. The big question is how do you get speaker wires to those two locations.




Replacing the junk subwoofer with something small and quality should be easy, something like:

http://velodyneacoustics.com/subwoof...black-147.html


EDIT: Actually I just remember there is quite a bit of room in the front air conditioner channel where the two intake vents are. There should be enough room in there to get speaker wire from the TV side cabinet to the kitchen side cabinet no problem.
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Old 06-04-2016, 09:12 PM   #40
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^ that makes more sense, I didn't realize you were considering moving them to the other cabinet faces.
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Old 06-05-2016, 06:58 PM   #41
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The TV sound quality is inferior to my 2015 Flying Cloud. I did add two speakers facing outward and just above the downward facing speakers. I just piggybacked off the original speakers. This has upped the sound quality.

As for the cabinet lights I simply glued one of those things that you put under chair legs to make them stable and those glued onto the push button in cabinets solved the light problem.

110 degrees here in AZ and the fridge can't keep up nor can just the one AC unit. I should try using both AC's and see if that helps with the cooling down of the trailer.
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Old 06-05-2016, 10:50 PM   #42
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110 deg, oh ya I am sure two AC unit use would be required.
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