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Old 05-20-2016, 09:21 AM   #15
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Thanks for the post. Will be receiving our 2016 Classic in a week and the postings from this forum have been invaluable! Excitement grows! Great community here, appreciate hearing these experiences and looking forward to proffering observations as well.

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Old 05-20-2016, 02:51 PM   #16
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The SMEV stove-top/oven is being imported by Dometic. If you aren't getting help from either your dealer, I'd call Rick March at Airstream (customer service) and tell him what you've been dealing with and see if he can help. This (obviously) is a warranty issue. In order to expedite it, I'd probably call Dometic directly and deal with them. Be advised that the oven tends to be VERY hot in the rear (you can see why if you look inside -- the burner is a straight pipe with about 6 orifices on top where the flames come out). You have to turn whatever your baking about every 15 minutes or you have a very uneven baking experience.
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Old 05-20-2016, 04:48 PM   #17
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25. There is some space under the recliners but pretty useless. As to doing the Barry storage behind the couch make sure it isn't anything conductive. If you pull out the center drawer and look at the front wall you will see the positive and negative bus bars along with the overall cutoff switch. Put something metallic down there, like a metallic sunshade, and enjoy the show
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Old 05-20-2016, 07:08 PM   #18
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Very funny, Gary! BTW, if you DO lose something between the cushions, I found out how easy it is to get under the sofa. Remove the center drawer. There are two nuts that unscrew right at either side of the front edge of the sofa. Then just lift the middle cushion straight up (the back remains attached). The rear of the cushion has a long metal pin that fits into a receiver. The cushion is pretty heavy, but once you lift it out you have easy access to the 7 pin connector wiring, "USE/STORE" relay, etc. You can also reach the plugs for either side of the electric recliners. Importantly, it gives you access to where all the wiring comes into the trailer from the tongue, and access to reseal the opening when that becomes necessary.
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Old 05-21-2016, 04:44 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BAB View Post
19. You'll eventually replace the Saran Wrap skylights with three-level Maxims. I have the detail for the Classic that David at Maxim will need to make them for you.

I probably will. Is the main reason for doing this; insulation value? Hail/Thunderstorms? UV? Leaks? All of the above?

20. Solution: King Jack Antenna to replace the flying saucer

Do you have to cut through the ceiling in order to mount the rotate knob?


21. ALWAYS use the dead bolt when you're OTR. I use both, but the deadbolt is probably critical. Yes, there have been incidents where a door has opened on the highway. You DEFINITELY want to install a "kill" switch for your RELAX awning. Many of us have done this. It precludes power to the switch pad and eliminates the possibility of an awning opening while you're underway. This happened to someone with the same awning you've got. I'm told that Zip Dee recommended that Airstream do this as part of the install...

Interesting, is the control panel just sending an errant "open" signal while on the road? Adding a cut switch should be pretty easy. Why not just travel with the battery kill switch in "store" mode? Does that prevent the tow vehicle from recharging the batteries, or the fridge from working off propane?


25. We use space behind the sofa for a blanket throw and for the plug that we put in the Fantastic Fan opening for better insulation.

33. I replaced the non-adjustable outlets that put massive heat onto the sofa area with adjustable. You can close one or both off and push more heat to the rear of the trailer. BTW, there are very small ducts that direct air to your tanks. How effective? Don't know, but they are there.

While investigating under the cabinets, I saw the two small heater ducts that go "under" the floor to the tank area. I would say overall, the air heating ducts are the lowest quality install of my trailer. There are many tears/holes in the lines, the small duct that goes under the wardrobe and floor to the bathroom is completely smashed and crimped. Whomever does the ductwork at Airstream is a pretty shitty worker.

I have to find someway to spread out the collapsed ductwork without causing more damage in an area I cannot access. I guess I could always just cut a larger access hole under the wardrobe. I'll be full-timing and must guarantee good heat circulation under the floor when the temps drop. I also noticed the heater cage blower was up against the interior wall. It's loud, I may add some sound deadening material back there. I may also add a separate relay to turn on the cage fan when I have electric heaters on not to waste propane, and may also add some sort of rheostat to control the fan RPM.


36. I just replaced my manual table pedestal with the version you've got. Do not worry about how it's fastened. It goes through steel and wood, then uses 4 substantial bolts to mount it to the floor. Worry more about the table top. It uses 4 fairly small wood screws to told it to the bracket that screws on to the top of the pedestal. They can't use a very long screw as it'd be through the Corian.

37. I have the Magnum MSH30 in my trailer. No noise from inverter, converter AND I can run my A/C on batteries! I'm using 4 Lifeline 6V AGM's but will convert to Lithium when they die.

I wish it was just as simple as swapping out the inverter. But like you said, the power panel, wire gauges etc all have to be enlarged.

41. Yes, no labeling for 12V circuits. A red light will illuminate if you blow a fuse. Then you'll know what it operated. (I think code requires them to label the 120V circuit, but since that doesn't pertain to 12V....caveat emptor).

I take back my previous comment. I found that instead of putting a label on the back of the power supply/bus cover, they actually put printed stickers on the front of the power supply for both 120v and 12v. I guess I just didn't notice them before.

45. I tired the drill routine for the windows. Ended up using the clear plastic tubing solution (a couple of bucks at Lowes). By the time I'd drill the holes deep enough there was no way to securely fasten the knobs back on. EVERYONE complains about this, but it doesn't seem to get fixed. I mentioned this to the lady who fabricates the valences when I was on the factory tour last month. She was aware as well. Oh, and IF you have to replace a front valance (the one with the curved shade), they run over $1,000. My dealer was able to retrack my shade. The accordion shades in front and back do not fully close. I've even moved the railings and they still don't fully shut.

Yes, I am super careful with the shades. I know if they break, that's some nice cash to fix. As for the handles that are too long, I am just going to Dremel off the end of the window lifts instead of drilling out the knobs. Cut off maybe half an inch on all of them.

BUT, you have an awesome trailer to enjoy. Most of the stuff is annoying, or it's making the trailer work the way you want it to. I love my Classic and it is awesome to tow (I see you have the same TV I have....and man, that Cummins has grunt!)...let me know if you need details. I have the Queen model, so stuff in the rear of our trailers is very different.

Sorry no Cummins here! I wanted an off-road truck, and the Power Wagon only comes with the 6.4L Hemi. Diesel is superior for towing, but I wanted a great off-road truck too. Combined with the ProPride, the Power Wagon hasn't had any issues pulling my Classic.


Hope to see you on the road.

Barry
Quote:
Originally Posted by m.hony View Post
4. They make stainless replacements for these cubbies.
Interesting. Exact fit? I wonder how involved it would be to remove those and replace them with stainless... I may just spray all the cracks and seams with Corrosion-X and wipe up as much as I can.

Quote:
Originally Posted by JimC50 View Post
Thanks for the detailed review! I have the same decor--chestnut furniture and dark Corian counters. No automatic awning, however. Queen bed.

I purchased my 2016 Classic from Bay Area Airstream in October 2015. It was delivered in perfect condition, and remains so after 6 months of heavy use.

My biggest problem so far is that I seem to have dropped my pencil while sitting on the couch last week, and can't for the life of me find it. I'm sure it's here somewhere---probably under the couch or dinette. Otherwise, life couldn't be better in my new hide-away.

I am parked in a place with a spectacular view, but I have to say that the interior is just as spectacular. It pleases the eye and the senses in every direction.

The Classic's design and craftsmanship makes me proud to be an American.

The customer service was also classic American---friendly and very attentive. The service department at BAA patiently walked me through the most basic of questions on how to operate this pretty complicated piece of engineering.

I purchased the extended warranty as well as the special coating process just to have the peace of mind for the next seven years.

I am fortunate at this point in life (68) to be able to pay a little more for top-quality American engineering and service. It's been worth every nickel. And it's a heck of a lot cheaper than building a house!
Yes, I am pretty happy with the Purchase. Something about living in an aluminum enclosure with skylights and Vistaview, Panoramic windows and great interior appointments cannot be matched. So much better than those old funeral parlor interior RV's that make up the rest of the market sub $200K.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Air83 View Post
I love that the dog and cat both have their tongue stuck out.


Quote:
Originally Posted by graysailor View Post
Nice post. Your interior is the same as mine. A few things I did.

1. Rayzar HD TV antenna from Winegard. It really works and is the first time I have been able to pick up over the air channels.

Do you have to rotate? Mechanism required?


2. Installed a dimmer for the salon area lights. Way to bright now they are perfect.

Salon area? Is that under the couch?

3. Installed reading lights over the twin beds. No more shadows when reading.

4. Installed a drop down or fold up table in front of the sofa. Makes for a nice computer/working area.

I'd love to see this if you ever took a picture to show.

5. With the deeper battery box I installed two AGM batteries to go along with my 400Watts of solar.

6. Upgraded the inverter and charger.

Did you upgrade the wire gauge too? I am curious about the routing hassle.

7. Installed two directional and closable vents for the heater in the salon area.
Hopefully this will send more heat to the rear. Very cold trailer in the winter.

Link or manufacture name by chance?

8. Installed a shut off switch for the power awning as I have read reports of it opening while traveling. Love the power awning.

I will think of more things that I have done as this thread progresses.
Quote:
Originally Posted by jamieb1086 View Post
When you apply the Corrosion-X to the seams and rivets, do you just spray on? Or do you need to rub it in?
I am going to use a small paintbrush for the seams and cue tips for the rivets.

Quote:
Originally Posted by BAB View Post
The SMEV stove-top/oven is being imported by Dometic. If you aren't getting help from either your dealer, I'd call Rick March at Airstream (customer service) and tell him what you've been dealing with and see if he can help. This (obviously) is a warranty issue. In order to expedite it, I'd probably call Dometic directly and deal with them. Be advised that the oven tends to be VERY hot in the rear (you can see why if you look inside -- the burner is a straight pipe with about 6 orifices on top where the flames come out). You have to turn whatever your baking about every 15 minutes or you have a very uneven baking experience.
I've baked a few times with mine and it seemed to work fairly even. Do the 15's and 16's have the same oven? Just curious.



Anyone know of a lock that could replace the simple thumb turn on the exterior refrigerator door access? Kinda seems silly to me to leave this unsecure. It would take about two seconds for someone to do some expensive damage in there.

I also want to replace the plastic exterior bay Airstream latches with stainless and better locks. Having trouble hunting something down.

Looking to get small "keyed alike" all weather padlocks for the lockable compartments around the trailer.

My trailer came with a clear tube with a screw on attachment at the end. I guess this is for winterization, as the screw on attachment is too small for a water hose. (Thought it maybe was for filling the fresh water tank).

Does the solar charge the battery with the battery kill switch in "store" mode? I noticed that the propane detector still had a green light with the battery kill switch activated to "store". Just curious what is still getting power in the trailer in the "store" mode, of if the propane sensor has an internal battery.

Anyone remove their magazine rack? I think I may put a stainless trash bin right there.

Anyone really familiar with PEX? I don't know if PEX tubing is suppose to be able to turn any while crimped down. Or if it spins, will that mean a leak is possible..
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Old 05-21-2016, 06:44 PM   #20
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BAB, what sizing is required to order Maxim replacements for the Classic? Can you share the approx. pricing?
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Old 05-21-2016, 06:50 PM   #21
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These are the exact sizes manufactured for my '15 Classic:
18.0 x 26.5" (rear) = $208
23.0x 23.0 = $252

Exterior finish was powder coated white
Skylight colors: gray-clear-clear

Pricing was as of December 2014.
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Old 05-21-2016, 07:01 PM   #22
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For Zybane: The Maxim Skylights provide much better insulation, more durability, and the construction is mega superior to what's on your Airstream. The after market model is manufactured in a custom fit aluminum frame, you choose the color of the plexiglass (they are tripled instead of the single thin Saran Wrap which comes from Airstream.

Yes, install of a King Jack requires a hole to be drilled. I did this directly in front of the rear skylight.

Exercise caution if you decide to mod. your furnace. E.g., if you put some kind of potentiometer/rheostat on your fan you may have consequences: i.e., exhausting the CO, interfering with sail switch which requires enough force to keep gas valve activated. When I use the Dyson electric heater, I just turn off the furnace. As I'm sure you already are aware, when you get below the 40's Airstreams become problematic. Lots of threads in AF from people who have lots of wintertime experience as full timers. Suggest you check them out if you already haven't!
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Old 05-21-2016, 09:07 PM   #23
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I like to do unconventional things, taking an AS below freezing I think can be done with proper prep. I may go with a custom electric heater/dehumidifier connected to the stock heater duct-work and not mess with the propane heater at all. Also plan to add an insulation layer to the underbelly of the trailer and air seal it, then a full vinyl skirt. Also, some electric radiant heat on the floor,under bed and walls. Will be fun projects.
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Old 05-21-2016, 09:24 PM   #24
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BAB, thanks for the measurements....that helps quite a bit.

Also, what mast did you use to mount your Wifi Ranger? They typically show installs on the batwing antennas.

Your build is inspirational, but I'm afraid of where it's going to lead me
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Old 05-30-2016, 06:03 PM   #25
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I have a 2017 Classic Twin on order. The comments I read were mostly positive. Great new upgrades with the 2017! Can not wait for build and delivery.
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Old 05-30-2016, 09:28 PM   #26
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Has anyone taken out the compartment accordion dividers? They are a bit low for me at 6'4". I don't think I would use those, if ever. I guess I could put them on craigslist. Anyone know how much they are worth?

So, I've spent a lot of yesterday putting on a bunch of Corrosion-X on each rivet head, including all windows and seams. Not entirely sure it's doing much. The rivets seem quite waterproof/secure and the seams of the panels have the sikaflex already on them. You guys think the Corrosion-X get's up under the rivet head that's water tight?
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Old 06-01-2016, 07:48 AM   #27
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Polk Audio system

35. Not too impressed with the Polk Audio. Speaker upgrades are definitely a future project. Down firing speakers as the only option are never ideal.

Agreed partially on the sound. However, we just took delivery on our Classic a month or so ago, having traded our Flying Cloud. Evidently, the factory makes no effort to balance the subwoofer levels prior to shipment. It's under the bench seat under the TV. The two settings are for level and crossover point. Once I got that balanced to my taste, I was MUCH happier with the Polk system. The Clarion subwoofer in the old Flying Cloud is easier to see and get to, and as such, the controls are more evident to most customers.

I agree with you on the downward firing speakers, but I don't see many other options that would be as aesthetically pleasing.

Dan
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Old 06-01-2016, 01:31 PM   #28
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I was thinking Polk Audio are actually decent speakers.


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