2016 Classic

[ghaynes755]

Barry, totally agree about not shutting both of them. 30 degree rise on one is about all I would trust. And yes, that sail switch replacement fixed my issue and the system has run flawlessly ever since. Still have a spare sail switch.

[cory_can]

Can someone please provide more info (thread/post or otherwise) on this sail switch replacement on '15 Classics. What does it rectify? What are the issues to look out for etc.? Specific model/serial numbers? Is it considered a recall? Thx

[EarlM]

I have a 2015 Classic and had my sails with replaced in Yellowstone. When the furnace shuts off there is a slight clicking noise is this normal?

[SusanFleck]

Originally Posted by ghaynes755

Has anyone found a source for replacing the two furnace rotatable vents by the entry door with vents that have flow controls like the ceiling vents. I used aluminum foil to seal off one of the two vents to increase flow/heat to the bedroom and hallway..

Great question ghaynes755. We have noticed this problem, too. Your solution is a good idea, although adjustable vents would be much preferred. Thanks for posting.

[daveswenson]

Originally Posted by EarlM

I have a 2015 Classic and had my sails with replaced in Yellowstone. When the furnace shuts off there is a slight clicking noise is this normal?

You will hear some clicking as things cool off and the metal contracts. Is this what you are hearing?

[EarlM]

I don't think that is it. It sounds like something disengaging when the blowers stop

[dasams]

Originally Posted by Tumbleweed83

It is ridiculous how poor the initial delivery quality is. It's the way car companies were back in the 70s. It's just little things that can be corrected, but is a bit disappointing when your out camping for the first time and something doesn't work because of poor assembly. And then it takes a month to get a service appointment to fix it.

We were also really surprised at our punch list of problems. Still haven't had everything fixed but we're working on it.

As stated above, autos were awful back in the day. Then JD Power started their Initial Quality Study and the Japanese led the list. Others, especially the US companies, were embarrassed and knew they'd have to up their game. The 2016 list by nameplate is Kia, Porsche, Hyundai, Toyota and BMW.

Porsche's rating is 84 problems per 100 vehicles!! Airstream could be >500 PP100. Dave

[dhroberts]

Originally Posted by ghaynes755

Barry, totally agree about not shutting both of them. 30 degree rise on one is about all I would trust. And yes, that sail switch replacement fixed my issue and the system has run flawlessly ever since. Still have a spare sail switch.

Gary,

I have a follow-up question regarding the "sail switch' conversation that you and Barry had. What is a sail switch? I read that the 'sail switch problem' is related to an 'earlier version of the furnace. I like you have a 2016 Classic. Does my unit potentially have this same problem? Thank in advance for the advice. Dennis

[ghaynes755]

The sail switch is a micro switch that has an arm that is about 4 inches long and has a series of bends on the metal arm. It is held in place with a couple of small screws. The arm extends into the interior of the furnace. As the squirrel gage fan rotates and generates air flow the air flow pushes on the arm, closing the switch, which tells the control board that the fan is running. If the control board doesn't get that signal the furnace may light but within a few seconds the gas flow will shut off. It may continue to do this over and over again.

If the sail arm has flexed it may make a 'tinking' sound if the arm is hitting the edge of the squirrel cage. I think the part is about $15 or so. If you need one buy two for a spare.

As to trying to rebend the arm, been there, tried that, but the arm has multiple bends and was never successful. Put a new one in and solved all my ignition issues.

[dhroberts]

Originally Posted by ghaynes755

The sail switch is a micro switch that has an arm that is about 4 inches long and has a series of bends on the metal arm. It is held in place with a couple of small screws. The arm extends into the interior of the furnace. As the squirrel gage fan rotates and generates air flow the air flow pushes on the arm, closing the switch, which tells the control board that the fan is running. If the control board doesn't get that signal the furnace may light but within a few seconds the gas flow will shut off. It may continue to do this over and over again.

If the sail arm has flexed it may make a 'tinking' sound if the arm is hitting the edge of the squirrel cage. I think the part is about $15 or so. If you need one buy two for a spare.

As to trying to rebend the arm, been there, tried that, but the arm has multiple bends and was never successful. Put a new one in and solved all my ignition issues.

Gary, appreciate the definition as I have lots to learn. I assume that you have not yet experienced this issue with your new 2016 but on a previous pre-2016 AS. We will be traveling to the Grand Canyon's North Rim soon and will undoubtedly be using our furnace for the first time. I will be on the lookout for this problem. Regards, Dennis

[BAB]

Gary...that was an AMAZING articulation of how the sail switch works (well, is supposed to work). I remember you had this issue when you first got your trailer. Mine was working fine. Until all of a sudden it would start up, light and then cycle off (and on) and off (and on). I knew immediately what it was as we'd talked about this on the phone. After I removed the outer cover I was able to remove the two small screws on the sail switch, carefully pull it out of the squirrel cage fan housing and do a bit of minor bending. It took my about 30 minutes to get it into the right shape...but it worked fine up in Maine a few weeks ago. Another example of how beneficial AirForums can be if folks share the "what happened to me" stuff. Barry

[ghaynes755]

If you buy a replacement it ships with a plastic "slip" cover that will allow you to bend your original back into shape. I found that the replacement had a thicker arm than the original. Wondered if the original was simply to thin. DH, yes I had this issue. Did everything else first, new control board, adjusted the igniter/sensor arms (gap was to wide). Be careful working on this as it is easy to crack the ceramic base (throw away at that point). Checked the pressure from the tank pressure regulator. It was a bit low, replaced with a better regulator. Still had the start/stop issue. Last item was the sail switch. Bingo and haven't had a single issue since. Camped at 10,000 feet down to sea level without any problems.

[dennis3751]

One other thought on furnace not firing up. If the DC system is below 12 volts or so the fan won't turn fast enough for the sail switch to operate. Well charged battery or hooked up to 120 AC is important as well.
Dennis

[Wilbur McLamb]

I've got a question about my 2016 classic thst I just purchased. Is it OK to run the furnace while traveling if it is cold outside. I would like to set the thermostat at maybe 65 degrees so it stays warmer inside?

[paiceman]

Originally Posted by Wilbur mclam

I've got a question about my 2016 classic thst I just purchased. Is it OK to run the furnace while traveling if it is cold outside. I would like to set the thermostat at maybe 65 degrees so it stays warmer inside?

Yes. We did it with three prior Airstreams and this year ran our Alde boiler system for weeks on our way south.

[james.mileur]

Originally Posted by jeff4506

I have another small gripe. The folding mid section of the couch - mine doesn't nearly lay flat as it seems the seat and back cushions interfere with each other. Mine probably lays at a 10 degree angle despite attempts to manhandle it level. Is that one of those hopeful design failures or does anyone's actually lay flat? . . . .

Sit on the couch, tilt the tray up a bit from down position, look down at the hinges and adjust the Jack Screws to change the "down" angle. Easy, peasy. Cheerio.

[labalope]

Hi Wilbur, Hope to pick up my 2016 classic next week in Katy Tx what are the wattage of your solar panels, thinking about having them installed I think 2016 classics are prewired? Labalope

[Wilbur McLamb]

Hi Gary, the solar panels i have are 200 watt each and do a good job of charging the batteries. However I do plan on adding some more solar as soon as I can. I'm not sure how much and i don't know if it's possible but I would like to run one air conditioner maybe 5-6 hours a night. Maybe someone can chime in tell me if it's possible.

[labalope]

Wilbur, What are the dimensions of your panels, Maybe we should consider Lithium batteries for their strength and longevity? anyone on here done that without any extra wiring? Gary

[alano]

Originally Posted by Wilbur mclam

Hi Gary, the solar panels i have are 200 watt each and do a good job of charging the batteries. However I do plan on adding some more solar as soon as I can. I'm not sure how much and i don't know if it's possible but I would like to run one air conditioner maybe 5-6 hours a night. Maybe someone can chime in tell me if it's possible.

A typical 13.5BTU A/C unit requires about 1300 W, not including the surge necessary for starting. You would need at least (1300 W / 12 V) * 5 hr / 0.8 = 680 Ahr of battery capacity or probably more like 800 Ahr when you account for inverter inefficiency and starting current. You would also need an inverter upgrade to handle the A/C. AM Solar has a lithium battery system sized at 800 Ah for $10K, less installation. However, even if you have a 400 W solar system, it would take 24 hours of sunlight generating maximum power in your panels to recharge the batteries after a cool night. Seems impractical.