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ghaynes755 · 07-20-2016, 02:21 PM

Hot/cold exact opposite on the same Kohler faucet set. Always confused. Maybe they have a Kiwi or Aussie doing that part of the build. Easy swap but to lazy to swap the fittings.

jeff4506 · 07-20-2016, 03:10 PM

Color blind installer.

BAB · 07-20-2016, 04:52 PM

I changed out the hot/cold hoses so it'd be hot when pushed back and cold when you pull forward (which is the way the sink in the lav is set up). After I did that, I decided to put in one of the Moen sensor faucets in the kitchen. I sold the Kohler to a new home owner who was delighted to get it. I'm guessing that since there is no "H" or "C" or Red or Blue indicator you get your choice. One thing's for sure, it takes awhile to get hot water through the kitchen faucet as the water heater and HW tank is down there under the lavatory sink. Having just done a week boon docking it bothered me to waste so much water waiting for it to get hot in the kitchen. And, no, I am NOT going to install a recirculating hot water system!

jeff4506 · 08-19-2016, 03:46 PM

Has anyone figured out how to remove the drawer from the villa sofa or dinette seat glides?

66Overlander · 08-20-2016, 08:21 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jeff4506

Has anyone figured out how to remove the drawer from the villa sofa or dinette seat glides?

Removing the drawers from the Villa furnature us easier than removing the wooden drawers. Locate the black rubbery plastic bits on each slide. Pull them out slightly and push the slides back slightly (~1/4" ) relative to the drawer body to unhook the tab on the front of the slide from the retainer on the drawer. Do this on both slides and the lift the drawer off the slides. Reverse to reinstall. Sorry I don't have photos. Hope my words were clear enough.

Mikem1961 · 08-20-2016, 08:32 AM

We had the same problem with our 2015 Int. Serenity. You would think(at least I would), that for a product as expensive as an Airstream is, that they would take a little time and ask for customer feedback and fix these manufacturing errors. We had doors the mirrored door in the bathroom's latch pull out of the wood, moulding in the bedroom come off, and sawdust everywhere, USB charging stations that mess with the TV. You would think that the dealership would give the vehicle a good once over prior to delivery. I just think they need better Quality Control. Unfortunately as long as people like us are whiling to buy them they aren't going to spend any money to change. Shame on us.

jeff4506 · 08-29-2016, 09:49 AM

I have another observation I want to see what others experience.

I recently had to refill propane for the first time. I had trouble removing the propane wing clamp that holds everything down - mine would not spin freely. I had to use vice grips to hold the threaded rod and use a lot of force to unscrew the wing. After a whole turn it started turning freely. It was only using about 1/2" of rod threading and the top thread was trashed.

Looking inside the wing I see something I don't know what it's called, but it's a "spring" of sorts with a circumference nearly that of the inner diameter. It's embedded in the thread which was preventing turning the wing beyond 1/2" and was gouging the top rod thread. It also appears there's a gap inside the wing thread in which this "spring" could potentially seat into... seemingly if it did, it would not interfere with the ability to clamp down further than 1/2".

Does anyone else have this issue or know that it's by design? I'm wondering if the spring is misplaced or if it is there deliberately to only allow the wing to clamp down so far and not have the threaded rod protrude through the top of the wing.

ghaynes755 · 08-29-2016, 10:48 AM

Jeff Photos? I don't have a 'spring' on mine at least that I am aware of.

switz · 08-30-2016, 09:14 AM

The "spring" could be the treads striped of the out from over tightening.

Zybane · 08-30-2016, 06:47 PM

Need pics of what you are talking about.

dennis3751 · 08-30-2016, 08:41 PM

Could be a threaded insert for stripped threads in the aluminum. These were used with aluminum heads on cars when bolts were over tightened.

Dennis

jeff4506 · 09-07-2016, 10:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by switz

The "spring" could be the treads striped of the out from over tightening.

I think that's what it is. I didn't post a picture as I couldn't get a good one. Will be at JC next Tuesday - hopefully they'll replace it. It's usable, but not ideal. I had to lower the threaded rod an inch so I could get at least 2 turns on the clamp.

paiceman · 09-07-2016, 01:42 PM

Quick question for anyone with a 2016 or 2017 Classic with the front lounge furniture. Are the seats comfortable? I have three breaks in my back and two herniated discs we have the factory lounge chairs in our 30' FC but are considering a Classic and would like some input on comfort of the lounges.

Thanks

Bud

RonaldC303 · 09-07-2016, 03:20 PM

I find them comfortable especially with my feet up. Of course we are all different shapes so it is hard to say if you would feel the same.

Ron

BAB · 09-07-2016, 04:34 PM

I think they are comfortable, but I liked the two Villa Euro Recliners that I'd installed in my '12 28' Intl CCD much better. I am in the early stages of contemplating the removal of the enormous sofa and replacing it with two recliners. Comfort is one reason, space is another. The sofa uses an amazing amount of space and I found the recliners not only used less space, but freed up a lot of not well-utilized space occupied by the frame and arms of the Villa sofa. Just my thoughts.

judyjudy · 09-14-2016, 12:53 PM

We find ours very comfortable with feet up or down or sitting sideways.

ghaynes755 · 09-15-2016, 09:54 AM

Has anyone found a source for replacing the two furnace rotatable vents by the entry door with vents that have flow controls like the ceiling vents. I used aluminum foil to seal off one of the two vents to increase flow/heat to the bedroom and hallway. I checked the temps on the remaining vent with an IR temp unit. The single vent is running at about 150 degrees up from the mid 120's with both ports open. I don't think that is an issue and there is an overtime sensor as part of the Atwood design.

But it would be nice to have adjustable vents.

Closing off one of them really helps even out the heat in the trailer.

cory_can · 09-15-2016, 10:31 AM

^ good idea.

cory_can · 09-15-2016, 11:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cory_can

^ good idea.

I don't have my trailer handy, but what are the diameter of those plastic vents compared to the metal ones in the roof?

Btw, hate not being able to edit posts after a time limit [emoji848]

BAB · 09-15-2016, 12:57 PM

Gary, I did find adjustable (rotatable and open close) RV vents by using Google. They were only about $8 each. The amount of heat that comes out of those vents (as you know), turns the front of the trailer into a VERY hot place. The color is kind of a light chocolate brown and they work fine. A word of caution: I'm not sure what would happen if you closed the two vents off simultaneously. The furnace is set up to blow a certain amount of air through the registers. If it's unable to do that and enough back pressure is created you might have an overheat/shutdown situation occur. It may be that there's enough volume in the remaining ductwork and registers to keep that from happening. I'm afraid to find out. As you know from personal experience, the early versions of this new furnace had some "issues" both with sail switches and inop boards that required replacement. Sorry I didn't keep the exact source from the purchase. Barry