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Old 05-19-2015, 05:27 AM   #661
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Easiest way to make it cooler is to turn the thermostat down, if it's too warm at 65 then turn it down. Even home thermostats can be inaccurate. Use the thermostat as a guide. Ignore what the number is, just go by how it feels tp you. Jim
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Old 05-19-2015, 08:15 AM   #662
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Clarion M502 Remote

Mine came with one, and it is about the only way to get the stations on the presets. Or at least it makes it fairly simple.

The term "fairly simple" when used with the Clarion M502 becomes an oxymoron. This is why they have replaced this model with the M505, at least on their website, they no longer show the M502 under marine products.
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Old 05-19-2015, 01:00 PM   #663
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Polk for us as well, and no remote.


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Old 05-19-2015, 02:12 PM   #664
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It would be nice if Polk had a remote, at least to control the volume or put it on mute. I don't see one on their website. Anyone know of something being available?
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Old 05-19-2015, 03:21 PM   #665
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I did buy a wired remote (posted earlier). It connects to the "Y" cable behind the head unit. Ran it to the sofa so I could control media/volume. Works fine. I think the reason there is no wireless remote is because the Polk is specifically designed for marine applications.
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Old 05-19-2015, 03:33 PM   #666
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Gary gave me a good idea the other day. Something I'd been thinking about, so I just did it. Added LED lighting to all 8 of the overhead cabinets. Bought switches at Lowe's so when the cabinet is open the light comes on, goes off when closed. Not a difficult project, but "fiddly." I pulled wires up from the lighting below -- a little more complex for the lights above the kitchen and the lights above the dinette, as power and ground came from different places. Made brackets to hold the switches from some repurposed Airstream aluminum. I also added more lights to the closet. $56 for the switches, $160 for the LED lights. Free labor. (I HAVE NO IDEA WHY ALL OF A SUDDEN MY PHOTOS ARE SIDEWAYS....EVEN IF I ROTATE THEM THEY STILL SHOW UP THIS WAY....HELP!!)
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Old 05-19-2015, 09:14 PM   #667
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So here's a parts list and I might save you some $$$ rather than Lowe's. Ouch Barry...

Parts List

LED’s - Supernight Cool White 16.4 ft SMD 3528 600 Leds $13.98 each Amazon.com: SUPERNIGHT Cool White 16.4ft 5M SMD 3528 600 Leds Flexible Waterproof 120led/M Led Light Strip: Home Improvement

Switch’s – 10 Pack, 2 per cabinet, $4.82 10 Pcs Mini Micro Limit Switch Roller Lever Arm SPDT Snap Action LOT - Electrical Outlet Switches - Amazon.com

Connectors – 10 pack, trim one end off to wire to switch, $ 6.59 Amazon.com: HeroNeo 10pcs Connector Adapter Cable LED PCB Strip 3528 to 3528 Single Color 8mm Free Welding: Electronics

22awg connecting wire , $ 10.95
http://www.amazon.com/Gauge-Black-Sp...uctor+zip+cord

Here's the drawing I use. Basically I run a line from a nearby 12v source like an led light, typically without drilling any holes. This line goes to a second piece of wire that forms a T. The positive side runs to one side of the switch. The LED connector positive goes to the other side of the switch and the negative from the connector goes direct to the leg of the T. Repeat for the other side.

Measure the length of LED's you need and cut only on the cut lines. If it is a bit long simply start from attaching from the center and when you get to the sidewall bend the strip and stick it to the side.

I use VHB tape to put the switch up high on the side of the center section. Power wire comes up in the space between the two openings and the T wires either come over the top of that center section if there is room between the interior aluminum or around the back.

LED strips which are self stick mount to the inside top face of the cabinet facing the back of the cabinet.

The strips do have a + and - side. So mounting the connector correctly can be seen in the photos below. I use a utility knife to cut through the waterproof covering next to the small black diode and then gently use a finger to remove the clear covering from the end of the strip. Use a small plier to remove the last diode so that you can slide the end of the strip into the connector.

Note: In the second image you can see the cut marks between each set of three LED's, also the removed waterproof bit, and the space where the singe LED has been removed.

I built the first one while it was raining outside. Built the rest at home where I had the proper tools. Doesn't take to long.

To do the front and rear lockers and two lockers on either side over the sink/stove and dining table in my 2015 Classic took two reels of the LED's.

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Old 05-20-2015, 05:19 AM   #668
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Gary, thanks for all the details. I'm sure others will really appreciate your complete BOM! My more expensive approach was using Utilitech 18" Tape Lights. (These are made by "Good Earth Lighting".) They come with a plug-in 120V transformer, but I just cut them off as they work with 12V perfectly. I used the wiring that was part of the package...it's very thin and easy to work with. The switches are Hillman's -- "always on" spring loaded, which turn off when the button is depressed. I fabricated a simple bracket that I screwed into the frame of cabinet at either the upper right/upper left corner. To simplify the wiring, I unscrewed one of the under cabinet lights and drilled a small hole up into the cabinet I was lighting and ran the wire accordingly. I spent about 5 hours doing all 8 cabinets. It looked so good, I also ran a 9th set up into the wardrobe cabinet. Wow! What a difference, I didn't realize how dark those cabinets really are, but "shedding light" makes a huge difference.
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Old 05-20-2015, 09:32 AM   #669
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Yes it is an easy deal. And really makes a difference. Surprising how dark they were.

With the double wide cabinets so far I haven't drilled anything. The bottom of the interior cabinet floor is really a false bottom. The underside where the lights are mounted and that interior floor are separated by about 3/4 inch. If you look or feel the center post it is two pieces of wood with a space at the back. There is an opening at the bottom where it goes through the interior floor that allows access to the gap. With the cabinets that have one of the puck lights in center it's easy.

The trim ring can be rotated off. Remove the two screws holding the light in. Feed the wire down the inside and aim it towards the hole. Grab it with your fingers and now you have the wires to make the power connections.

The stuff from Amazon seems to be the least expensive I have found. Each roll is 16.4 ft. So you can do a couple of cabinets per roll.

Next project is to see a 2016 and see how they have installed the exterior LED strip and where/how they are pulling power to the strip.
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Old 05-20-2015, 10:22 AM   #670
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And a bit of correction. Love the internet. Found this video which shows me the error of my ways on putting on the connectors. Don't need to pull off the one LED as I described. Watch the second half if you use the light strips that I have in the list.

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Old 05-21-2015, 07:52 PM   #671
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Tomorrow, I'll be adding a nifty string of lights to the underside of the awning shroud. I'm using a DSI LED Flexible Lighting Strip (Model 16178). They have the capacity for up to 16 colors as well as cool white/warm white. You can set them to trail from right to left, spread to right/left, or chase. Hmmm sounds like a bar! I've looked carefully at the aluminum shroud to determine the best place for the install. The aluminum shroud is what covers the awning when it's closed, but when it's open so is the shroud. Looks like the best place to mount them will be the channel closest to the trailer (primarily because of the need for the wiring to move in and out with the shroud as it extends and retracts when the awning unrolls and rolls. More to follow!
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Old 05-21-2015, 08:45 PM   #672
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Barry I'm wondering where the LED's are located on the new 2016's. Whether they are usable with the awning retracted. Hard to tell from Patrick's video. I'll post a question and see what we hear.
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Old 05-22-2015, 07:33 PM   #673
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Sent you a video of the finished project. I'm not sure what Airstream is doing, but the lights are beautiful. Reflection along the side of the trailer adds a fantastic touch. Think that the major challenge is how the LEDs are fastened into the channel. I did use two strings which adds both more lumens and flexibility. I used both the self-stick on the LED strips, clear VHB tape to augment it at frequent intervals, and then very small fasteners about every 3 feet. You do have to carefully plan how the wiring accommodates the Relax rollup/rollout mechanism. I suppose I could have wired from the rear of the trailer forward, but I wanted the RF control module close to the door.
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Old 05-28-2015, 05:21 PM   #674
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My solar install

Just finished a solar install with Marvin Braun of Precision RV. I had met Marvin last year when I did an install for my FC25. It worked out that for him to be in the Denver area and I store my trailer in a neighbor’s hangar so he would have a place to do the install out of the weather which was a good thing since we had rain, rain and then some more rain for most of the time he was here.

I had gotten a blueprint drawing of the roof of the 2015 Classic from Airstream. Scanned that and brought it into the drawing program Visio. Checked the scale and was able to play with laying out a mix of 100w and 135w AMSolar panels.

Ended up with 4 – 135w and 2 – 100w panels for a total of 740w of panels.

Controller is a Blue Sky 3024il with a Magnum 3000w Hybrid charger/inverter. The Hybrid allows a mix of solar, battery and any type of shore power to be mixed together and is strong enough to power one of the AC units.

For batteries I went the lithium route. Marvin had experience with the folks at Elite Power Solutions and their GBC based batteries. GBC/Elite offer a 200ah 4 cell which had a form factor that would allow me to mount them under one of the dinette seats.

With 320ah usable with the Elite cells (80% of 400ah) I would have needed to put in 650ah of AGM’s to get the same amount of capacity. That amount of space for 6 Lifeline GPC-4CT’s would have been a challenge. I would have probably lost the under seat storage on both dinette seats and the cable runs would have been longer. And the weight of the AGM’s would have totaled 400# rather than 110#.

Two other factors played into my decision to use Elite rather than AMSolar for the batteries. One was simple. Elite can ship lithium’s while AMSolar is still working on setting up their shipping process since lithium’s are considered a hazardous material. The other is the battery monitoring system (BMS) that is important to have long cell life. Elite puts a BMS on each battery cell. In my case I have a total of 400ah of batteries. 2 – 200ah packs. Each pack has 4 – 200ah 3.2v cells. So a total of 8 BMS sensor boards. This allows each cell in the pack to be monitored and charged accurately. Based on my experience with lithium batteries for UAV’s (drones), each cell should be measured for best life of the battery. It is more expensive than only measuring a group of cells as a bundle. And the Elite BMS system also outputs data to an expensive video monitor with lots of data on the health and status of the battery system.

For mounting I followed a similar path to what BAB (Barry) did for his install. The batteries and Magnum went under the dinette seat under the TV (rear seat). The drawer was removed from the face and the face was screwed to the frame. So we lost that one storage drawer. The Blue Sky went on the wall under the forward dinette seat where the old WFCO inverter had been mounted. Subwoofer was also moved under that seat.

This kept all of the cable runs as short as possible and ended up being a compact installation.

The 50amp sub-panel fit into the compartment under the hall closet that has the heating vent. The original panel now only powers the rear AC and the electric heater for the water heater. Everything else in the coach is on the new sub-panel.

There was ample room in the wire chase from the roadside to curbside where the shorepower cables are installed to bring power to the main breaker panel and back for the new sub-panel and wiring to the Magnum.

Total install was over 4 ½ days. Marvin is meticulous. Wiring is neat, fully bundled and a work of art. He was able to pull all of the cables, both power and data to the Magnum and Blue Sky controllers without additional holes. No need to remove the refrigerator. Tip, in the space behind the TV on the roadside wall where the power and antenna plugs are located, that panel can be removed which helps with running cable up that roadside wall pretty neatly.

We pulled the trailer out on a semi cloudy day and were getting the full 40amps out of the Blue Sky with some shading going on the roadside panels from the A/C units.

Couple of items to note on Lithium’s. They can take the full output from your controller that you can throw at them on a charge cycle. They stay in bulk mode until they are in the high 90% range (usually about 98%) and then go into a slower absorption charge mode. AGM’s go from bulk to a slower absorption rate at a much lower percentage of being full. Thus Lithium’s will charge much quicker than the equivalent AGM/Lead Acids since they will take the full 40ah output from the Blue Sky controller for a longer period of time.

The other item of interest is turning on the A/C unit. Mine is a 15K. With my FC25 there was a definite sag in AC voltage when that type of load was put on the system. With lithium’s the AC voltage did not change. Didn’t even budge on the Elite BMS display.

I like boondocking, lots of BLM and USFS places here in the west. And solar opens up lots of camping sites in general that don’t have power without giving up your power hungry lifestyle. I work from the road, so need internet access. Solar keeps it quite, though I do also carry a 2K Honda as a backup. But I don’t need a 3K unit or a pair of Honda’s to run the A/C when needed.

I’ll post a follow up to see that the affect of the changes had on weight. Removed 102# from the front battery compartment. Added lithium (110#), Magum (60#) and panels (111#) mostly just in front of the axels. So I think tongue weight will go down. Not sure how much. Scales will tell the tale.


As for cost, yes at the front end lithium is more expensive. Comparing this install to my last install the overall price was the same with a delta for the difference in the lithium batteries compared to 4 AGM’s. Long term the jury still seems to be a bit cloudy but even some of the more pessimistic predictions show that properly maintained lithium’s will in the end be the same cost as AGM’s since they should get more charge cycles.

And I highly recommend a pro do the work. Marvin has a wealth of knowledge on how to wire all of the pieces together to give you solid solution. Lots of experience installing solar on Airstreams. He did all of the roof work without walking on roof. Sincere kudos for that. All of the components are the same price but Marvin has the tools to build the cables and all of the other bits and pieces that most of us would have to chase down, borrow or buy. He is very thorough in explaining the system, will help you really understand how to make it work and keep it running.

And for me the plus, besides having Marvin do the install, was that I didn’t have to travel to get the work done. Made it very convenient for me since I am about a 100 yards away from my storage location and I didn’t spend time traveling to get the install completed.

Photo 1 - Batteries, Magnum, main fuse, Elite Power BMS CPU on top of the Magnum
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Photo 2 - Side wall, shunt at the bottom and breaker for the input from the Blue Sky
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Photo 3 - Blue Sky, Solar disconnect, sub-woofer and cables to the DC Pos/Neg Bus and battery disconnect at the front of the trailer behind the couch
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Photo 4 - New sub-panel
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Old 05-28-2015, 08:35 PM   #675
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2015 Classic - Owners' Thread

Great post! How about reposting it on the latest generic solar thread as well? Your need for electricity for work makes it the kind of post a guy like me keeps in consideration as the top end of things. Knowing where to stop, in other words.

Of course, if you already have, forgive me.

Thanks.
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Old 06-03-2015, 07:33 AM   #676
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I know what the fix is if your recliner started to jump over to the right or left after it is fully up. I was the first and after talking to my dealer they have seen several also. It has poor welds at the back pivot point. Factory fixed my one side so I have no pictures. But once you take the seat out and remove the pads you will see the break. Easy fix (If you ave a welder). Thinl we will be seeing a lot of these soon.
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Old 06-22-2015, 10:02 PM   #677
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Was wondering if any of you folks have a issue with stove nobs getting very hot with oven on, I mean burn you hot. I told my dealer & they was un aware of any issue.

Thanks Bob
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Old 06-24-2015, 12:43 PM   #678
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Hey Bob, I have not had that issue.


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Old 06-24-2015, 12:52 PM   #679
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My current trailer doesn't have an oven.
My previous trailer had an oven, but I never used it.


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Old 06-24-2015, 01:18 PM   #680
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Hot but not burn you hot.
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