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Old 05-06-2015, 08:45 PM   #617
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CK I called the factory support center. Was told 125-135# by the support desk. Someone else on this thread did the same and got the 125-135# answer. And this was posted by switz back on post #548 in this thread.

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Old 05-07-2015, 06:53 AM   #618
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Torque on 16" wheels

Maybe not on a Classic, but I have just replaced the wheels on my Serenity with 16 x 6 aluminum wheels from Trailer Tires and Wheels

16" 6 Lug LH1 Black Hi Spec Aluminum Trailer Wheel

and Mike says 100 ft lbs is the correct torque for the lug nuts.

What is important is not so much the torque used on the nuts, but the regularity of checking this. However, I suspect as one gets into numbers much above 110 ft lbs, if you have a flat you may find removing the wheel difficult with hand tools. Also, when torque is too high, there is damage to the wheel surface which is in contact with the nut.

On Porsches, wheels are torqued to 95 ft lbs, and these are 150 mph plus vehicles with huge power transmission through the wheels.

One more thought...anti seize lubrication...never on threads, possibly on the tapered part of the lug nut.

After all the research, I am taking the advice of the wheel manufacturer and going with 100-110 ft lbs.

From a Serenity owner....before they had the new Classic...LOL
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Old 05-07-2015, 03:38 PM   #619
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Well I asked the shop manager Rick today about wheel torque. The last time I asked him about about mine 2 years ago he told me 110 lbs for the 16" wheels. This time his answer was 110 - 120 lbs. My wheels will be removed next week as I still have the recalled Michelin's which Airstream is replacing. Wonder what they'll torque mine at?
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Old 05-07-2015, 03:59 PM   #620
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I remember when I got my wheels I called Tredit who sold me the Sendels. This was their recommendation from initial break in of the wheels and nuts. I bought the T03 wheels along with new chrome lug nuts from them.

I decided to go with 110 ft/lbs. Once I got past break in I've found that the lugs hold steady at 110. After the break in period I tightened the lugs by hand with my cross wrench followed up by checking with the torque wrench. Interesting to find that my tight by feel was 110 or just over.

Jack

Recommended Torque Intervals & Range
1st Stage
10 Miles
120 ft/lbs
2nd Stage
25 Miles
120 ft/lbs
3rd Stage
50 Miles
120 ft/lbs
Thereafter
Before each trip
120 ft/lbs
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Old 05-07-2015, 04:53 PM   #621
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Is it possible to properly torque and/or remove the lugs with an 18 V torque wrench? If so, do you of you have brand and model recommendations with estimated cost?
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Old 05-07-2015, 06:08 PM   #622
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WHEEL SEPARATION. I've given a lot of consideration as to whether or not I should post this, but in the interests of our community, I think I should. Some of the back-and-forth on wheel torque for the 16" wheels is due to wheel separation on my new Classic that occurred on 17 April. (Those of you who know me, know I'm very mechanically inclined and hyper-methodical when it comes to my trailer.) Anyway, we were headed to the Outer Banks on 17 April. About 5 miles west of Rocky Mount on Hwy 64, at 62 MPH I felt a bump...not huge, but a bump. No alarm from my TPMS. About 30 seconds later, a guy pulls up next to me honking and waving his arms, pointing toward the trailer. I look in the rearview mirror and see wheel moulding trim sticking out from the SS. Find a safe spot, pull over. No left side forward wheel. It looked as if the wheel had been completely sheared from the studs. I call Good Sam Roadside Service (I've had this since 2011, but never used it.) He listens to the issue, makes sure I'm safe and says, "will call you back within 10 minutes." He does, and directs me to a shop in Rocky Mount that can get me back on the road. Only $74 for wheel removal and broken stud removal. He inserts new studs (which he cautioned me were NOT the right ones for an aluminum wheel), mounts steel wheel spare and 90 minutes later I'm back on the road. The guy who did the repairs said that in his 30 years of working on wheel separation, most of the time it was due to a wheel being overtorqued. Total damage, wheel, tire, entire lower SS panel, trim, labor is just under $8,000. (I am very lucky, as I have an awesome dealer -- Out-of-Doors Mart who will make my trailer as close to perfection as it can be.) Was at Region 3 rally in Ladson, SC over last weekend and I had a steady stream of visitors inspecting the damage. Why I am sharing all this: there is a CLEAR INCONSISTENCY IN THE PROPER TORQUE SETTING FOR 16" WHEELS. The brand new Airstream Classic Owner's manual does NOT agree with what the service center is saying (125-135 lbs). I also had significant problems with the stock lug nuts, and replaced many of them with McGard's. What I learned from a number of "wheel experts" -- (and I'm sure there will be lots of others who'll comment) -- a) aluminum wheels present a special challenge, b) there is a big difference in lug nuts, c) you have to learn how to torque wheel nuts, d) the wheel studs in Airstream wheels are an unusual size, e) a Dill TPMS system will tell you if you have a tire problem, but not a wheel separation (unless you notice that you're no longer getting a reading from one of your tires), f) an Airstream CAN run safely on 3 wheels. I also learned that the only person who would step up and pay for this would be yours truly and his insurance company. Finally, I am very lucky that my wheel -- traveling 62 MPH -- didn't end up in someone's windshield. Finally, I do NOT need to learn a lesson twice, and I don't want any of you to learn my lesson either. WE NEED A CLEAR, UNEQUIVOCATED TORQUE SETTING FOR LUG NUTS ON 16" ALUMINUM WHEELS FOR 2015 CLASSIC TRAILERS. Barry
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Old 05-07-2015, 07:08 PM   #623
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Barry, I rotated your photo, and here is an "after" photo of SilverLeaFII, nearly completed:
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Old 05-07-2015, 07:43 PM   #624
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Originally Posted by BAB View Post
WHEEL SEPARATION. I've given a lot of consideration as to whether or not I should post this, but in the interests of our community, I think I should. Some of the back-and-forth on wheel torque for the 16" wheels is due to wheel separation on my new Classic that occurred on 17 April. (Those of you who know me, know I'm very mechanically inclined and hyper-methodical when it comes to my trailer.) Anyway, we were headed to the Outer Banks on 17 April. About 5 miles west of Rocky Mount on Hwy 64, at 62 MPH I felt a bump...not huge, but a bump. No alarm from my TPMS. About 30 seconds later, a guy pulls up next to me honking and waving his arms, pointing toward the trailer. I look in the rearview mirror and see wheel moulding trim sticking out from the SS. Find a safe spot, pull over. No left side forward wheel. It looked as if the wheel had been completely sheared from the studs. I call Good Sam Roadside Service (I've had this since 2011, but never used it.) He listens to the issue, makes sure I'm safe and says, "will call you back within 10 minutes." He does, and directs me to a shop in Rocky Mount that can get me back on the road. Only $74 for wheel removal and broken stud removal. He inserts new studs (which he cautioned me were NOT the right ones for an aluminum wheel), mounts steel wheel spare and 90 minutes later I'm back on the road. The guy who did the repairs said that in his 30 years of working on wheel separation, most of the time it was due to a wheel being overtorqued. Total damage, wheel, tire, entire lower SS panel, trim, labor is just under $8,000. (I am very lucky, as I have an awesome dealer -- Out-of-Doors Mart who will make my trailer as close to perfection as it can be.) Was at Region 3 rally in Ladson, SC over last weekend and I had a steady stream of visitors inspecting the damage. Why I am sharing all this: there is a CLEAR INCONSISTENCY IN THE PROPER TORQUE SETTING FOR 16" WHEELS. The brand new Airstream Classic Owner's manual does NOT agree with what the service center is saying (125-135 lbs). I also had significant problems with the stock lug nuts, and replaced many of them with McGard's. What I learned from a number of "wheel experts" -- (and I'm sure there will be lots of others who'll comment) -- a) aluminum wheels present a special challenge, b) there is a big difference in lug nuts, c) you have to learn how to torque wheel nuts, d) the wheel studs in Airstream wheels are an unusual size, e) a Dill TPMS system will tell you if you have a tire problem, but not a wheel separation (unless you notice that you're no longer getting a reading from one of your tires), f) an Airstream CAN run safely on 3 wheels. I also learned that the only person who would step up and pay for this would be yours truly and his insurance company. Finally, I am very lucky that my wheel -- traveling 62 MPH -- didn't end up in someone's windshield. Finally, I do NOT need to learn a lesson twice, and I don't want any of you to learn my lesson either. WE NEED A CLEAR, UNEQUIVOCATED TORQUE SETTING FOR LUG NUTS ON 16" ALUMINUM WHEELS FOR 2015 CLASSIC TRAILERS. Barry

Yikes! I'm glad you were ok and your Classic can be repaired. They need to figure this one out, the manual and service center should be saying the same thing.
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Old 05-07-2015, 08:20 PM   #625
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Yes that would be beneficial if the tire pressure recommendations were a single number for all of us that migrated to the SenDel wheels. Makes one wonder if Airstream installs different hubs depending on whether there are 16" or 15" wheels to be attached.
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Old 05-07-2015, 08:30 PM   #626
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Yes that would be beneficial if the tire pressure recommendations were a single number for all of us that migrated to the SenDel wheels. Makes one wonder if Airstream installs different hubs depending on whether there are 16" or 15" wheels to be attached.
They are all 12x2", 42mm hubs, from the 25' on up.
With that in mind, the only thing different is the wheel. Lug nuts, studs, hub and drum, and bearing assemblies are the same.
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Old 05-07-2015, 08:51 PM   #627
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Wheel Separation-BAB

Barry:
Thank you for posting your experience. The detail and subsequent analysis is helpful to those of us with the 16" Sendels and Michelins. Hopefully your post will lead to honest and specific answers for the safety of all. Your decision to share was the correct one. This alerts me to be careful as we embark on a trip soon to Wyoming and other points west. Too bad ODM does not have an outpost over there, if needed.
Tom
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Old 05-07-2015, 09:15 PM   #628
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I know I mulled over this 3 years ago when I changed over to the Sendel wheels. My manual for my trailer says 85 ft lbs for the aluminum wheels and 95 for steel. I specifically asked Tredit for new lugs appropriate for my T03 wheel. Their answer was 125 ft lbs., but I felt uncomfortable not truly knowing the hub and stud limits. So I felt good that the 110 ft lbs torque that I decided to use was a reasonable split between Tredit's recommendation and Airstream's recommendation for steel wheel use. Especially when the borrowed torque wrench I used pretty much verified that my own technique with my cross wrench was producing about 110 ft lbs, and I had been doing that for years with my various trailers with no ill effect. If anything those of us with the older trailer should have seen some ill effects if we are over torquing. There's a lot of liability here and I for one truly believe that Airstream truly understands the torque limits of their hubs and studs. If you have an older trailer you can most likely use a lower setting and then frequently check and see how well the lugs stay put. I'm very comfortable with 110.

Jack
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Old 05-07-2015, 09:29 PM   #629
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Should the sheet in post 617 above be read as a description of the Eddie Bauer wheels and tires, rather than as a recommended torque setting, which ought to be taken from the Owners Manual?

Our 16" Sendels have been on for three years and several cross-country trips remaining tight at 110 lbs. Jackson Center used 110 lbs when we were there for service as well.
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Old 05-07-2015, 10:02 PM   #630
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SJ even the tire shops don't depend on their air wrenches to set torque. A torque electric might be good getting them off and back on but final torque should be done with good torque wrench with the proper torque setting.
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