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Old 11-17-2012, 08:41 AM   #15
3 Rivet Member
Snaken49's Avatar
2010 28' Flying Cloud
Fort Worth , Texas
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 126

Before my first winter with a new 25 Safari I essentially followed the checklist on the previous post. Within a month I needed to use my rig to camp at a mountain bike race and had to go through the hassles of flushing the antifreeze out of the water system. Even then the hot water foamed for a couple days after the flush!

So I looked up the AS recommend procedure in the Owner's Manual:

When storing your trailer for short or long periods use the same precautions as you would in your own home in regard to perishables, ventilation and rain protection. In addition, for prolonged storage periods flush out all the drain lines and the holding tanks. Also drain the entire water system including the water heater and the water storage tank. Instructions for draining the water system are explained in the following
paragraphs on winterizing.


To completely winterize your trailer follow this procedure.
1. Level the trailer from side to side and front to rear. Open all faucets.

2. Turn the water pump switch to the ON position to expel water from the storage tank

3. Open all drain valves including drain plug or valve on water heater and exterior water service valve. (See drain valves on previous page) F

4. While the water is draining from the system, open and flush the toilet-flushing valve. Depress hand spray lever while holding the spray head down inside the bowl. Depress hand spray thumb button on the telephone shower head while holding down inside the tub and drain all water from the flexible hose. Unscrew the heads on both spray units and store.

5. Turn the pump switch OFF after all water has been removed from the storage tank.

6. Remove exhaust hose from water pump.

7. Disconnect the water pump inlet connection and turn the pump on until all the water is expelled. This water, about 1/2 cup, can be caught in a towel or rag.

8. Lower the front of the trailer as far as the jack will allow until water ceases to drain, then crank the jack up as high as it will go and let any remaining water drain out.

9. After the water has stopped running from the drain lines, apply at least 60 lbs, of air pressure at the city water inlet. An air to city water adapter is available from your dealer’s RV accessory store. Be sure the toilet valve and all drain valves and faucets are open and pump outlet hose is disconnected. This can be accomplished at a service station and will force any remaining water from the water heater and remove any water which may be trapped in low areas.

10. Pour a cup of non-toxic RV antifreeze which has been approved and listed by a recognized testing authority such as Underwriter Lab into the lavatory, sink and tub drains to prevent trap freeze-up. CAUTION Remove all RV anti-freeze spillage from all drain and faucet parts after winterizing. Failure to do so could result in damage to the plumbing fixture’s finish.

11. Be sure to open the waste holding tank drain valves and drain and flush the tanks thoroughly (THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT AS THE SEWAGE IN THE TANKS, IF FROZEN, COULD SERIOUSLY DAMAGE THE TANKS.)

12 Remove the cartridge of the water purifier and leave the purifier valve in the open position. (If so equipped).

13. Remove the batteries from your trailer and store in a cool dry place where there is no danger of freezing. It is very important for optimum life of a battery to check it periodically and to keep it fully charged.

14. Remove any items (food, cosmetics, etc.) from trailer interior that might be damaged by freezing - or might damage the trailer if containers break.

For additional winterizing protection add a non-toxic antifreeze (approved for drinking water system) to the water lines using the following procedure.

1. Reconnect all lines except the hose to the pump inlet port. Close all drain valves.
2. Turn by-pass valve to by-pass position. To by-pass the water heater for winterizing, close valves A and C and open valve B (See illustration on next page).
3. Install a spare water purifier cartridge to be used specifically for winterizing. This cartridge will have RV anti-freeze in it when finished and will be removed and the clean cartridge re-installed for normal use. Keep the spare cartridge for future cold winterizing procedures.
4. Attach a length of hose to the pump inlet port. This piece of hose should be long enough for the free end to be inserted into and reach the bottom of the antifreeze container.
5. Dilute the antifreeze solution in accordance with the manufacturer’s instructions
6. Open all water faucets. F PLUMBING F - 9
7. Insert hose length into the antifreeze container, turn the pump switch on, and run the water pump until the antifreeze solution fills all water lines. Flush toilet. Work hand shower spray while holding down in tub.
8. Shut off the pump and close all faucets.
9. Disconnect the hose length from pump inlet fitting and reconnect water system inlet line.

Since I use my rig all year long I used the following procedure when I returned my trailer to covered parking:


1. Depressurized water system and drained shower hose.

2. Opened cabinets under sink and in bathroom to allow air to circulate.

3. Turned furnace on and set thermostat to 40F. Note: AS forced air furnaces circulate warm air through fresh, gray and black holding tanks to prevent freezing during cold weather camping.


1. Cover water heater vent with a plastic barrier to prevent cold air from blowing in.

2. Used the same procedure for the refrigerator vent.

3. Emptied gray and black tanks.

4. Filled fresh water 1/4th full.

5. Replaced my lead acid batteries with sealed gel cells that will not freeze.

I've used this same procedure now for 3 hard winters (temps down to 15F) and with my 2010 FC that replaced my Safari without any problems or freezing of water or drain lines.

I also highly recommend 3R ODOR-CON / PUROGENE SALES products for fresh water and holding tank treatment and oder control.

The best is that my rig is always ready to roll!

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Old 11-17-2012, 01:50 PM   #16
Rivet Master
2006 22' International CCD
2007 Base Camp
Elk Valley , British Columbia
Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 657
You will need to winterize anytime you are expecting below freezing temperatures for more than 12 hours or so, with an unoccupied trailer. It takes very little water to freeze, especially in all the traps and low points, to cause a big problem. A warm-ish day with risk of frost overnight? No problem... Windy evening and a few degrees below freezing, and you are risking problems in the morning...

Travelling in sub-freezing is a whole other issue... you can suck heat out of your Airstream in minutes... it just isn't made for 4 season travel...

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Old 12-25-2012, 11:29 AM   #17
2 Rivet Member
2012 25' FB Flying Cloud
Nevada City , California
Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 55
We have a Flying Coud 2012 and recently installed a solar panel. We learned not to put the switch in store mode as it tends to wipe ot all the settings on the electronic gear. The panels seem to keep the batteries charged. Are we over looking something?
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Old 12-25-2012, 11:47 AM   #18
Rivet Master
2006 22' International CCD
2007 Base Camp
Elk Valley , British Columbia
Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 657
Originally Posted by Orson View Post
We have a Flying Coud 2012 and recently installed a solar panel. We learned not to put the switch in store mode as it tends to wipe ot all the settings on the electronic gear. The panels seem to keep the batteries charged. Are we over looking something?
If you are at a latitude where you are getting enough sun and your panel is a decent size (say 60w or so), you'll have no problem keeping the battery topped up. Many of the smaller automotive solar trickle chargers on only 5 or 10w panels...

For where I live, that isn't enough in the winter... where you are... no worries.

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