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Old 08-25-2015, 04:03 PM   #15
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2006 23' Safari SE
Biloxi , Mississippi
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Boomer, there are several long threads here about the fridge noise. Many have replaced the OEM fan with quitter and higher output computer fans. Also the addition of a fan on/off switch is a popular addition. I did both and it improved the perceived interior Db level.

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Old 08-25-2015, 09:26 PM   #16
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Battle Lake , Minnesota
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I replaced the noisy fridge fan with a quiet computer cooling fan. Can't hear it run inside, barely outside.
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Old 08-26-2015, 08:05 AM   #17
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My dealer is aware of the problems. They would have fixed it at dealer, and they offered to send a service man to me and fix it. Also airstream called me to help. We decided easy way was they sent me a kit to pull and reseal vent.
As far as the water heater pressure, if i just open a facet for a few seconds as water is first heated i have no leaks.
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Old 08-26-2015, 03:12 PM   #18
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2015 25' Flying Cloud
Woodinville , Washington
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No, we have not experienced that with ours, but
We have a 25' Flying Cloud twin 2015 and have had a water leak from the shower. They replaced the wall and now we have a large gap behind the wall.and interior skin.
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Old 08-27-2015, 07:12 AM   #19
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thank you for the fan idea....can I get one of these fans at any computer outlet online? how about the wiring? same?
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Old 08-27-2015, 07:23 AM   #20
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I used a Silenex fan- 90cf and 18dB. I've used the same fan for several years in two different Airstreams. This week it failed. The refrigerator is a much harsher environment than a desk top computer. I replaced it with a cheap one from Best Buy, the only one I could find. It's very quiet, but doesn't move a lot of air. When we get home, I'll replace it.
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Old 08-27-2015, 07:43 AM   #21
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Reading about all the leaks and other problems with the new AS, I'm glad I'm still towing my 1978 ! Its not as shiny as I'd like and the inside is pretty plain but the only leak its ever had was around one roof vent!
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Old 08-30-2015, 05:13 PM   #22
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Marietta , Georgia
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Yes, new coach, leaked from multiple points from day one, day ... after dealership return, ... after dealership return, and now scheduled for a trip to JC for warranty repairs.
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Old 08-30-2015, 08:17 PM   #23
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Those considering a new Airstream, don't freak. Our 2016 30' Serenity has been through some heavy downpours, including hail and we haven't found any evidence of a leak. Doesn't mean they aren't happening, but at least there are no evident problems right off the bat. Everything works! Only possible issue is that the fridge didn't seem to be cooling well enough in 100* weather. (Would only go down to 40*). We're in much cooler temps now and it's OK, but still monitoring carefully. And if 100* temps are expected to be the norm in an area where we're "camping", we'll just get on the road to someplace cooler anyway.
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Old 08-30-2015, 08:45 PM   #24
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Doug, question on finding leaks, When you find them how do you handle it? The reason I ask is bout the flooring. Do you replace the flooring each time or what are some strategies?
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Old 12-23-2015, 03:39 PM   #25
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East Falmouth , Massachusetts
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2016 flying cloud FB just found leak on rear curved window small but water coming in right where roof panels meet (3)all seams look good so far what did you do.Never used the trailer drove it 250 miles home and a leak nice.same day get a recall for gas regulator travel 500 miles why don't they just send me one
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Old 01-03-2016, 02:56 PM   #26
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We had leaky connections under the bathroom sink, and the fresh water intake leaked into to wardrobe.
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Old 01-03-2016, 03:07 PM   #27
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I've been lucky as well. No leaks on my 2014 FC 25. Well correction not from the outside anyway. The filters under the sink had a good leak and made a mess. You would think stuff like that would be checked. Go figure.

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Old 01-04-2016, 04:18 PM   #28
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Port Saint Lucie , Florida
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Do you need to check the pressure once in a while ?

Originally Posted by dkottum View Post
The bubble inside the water heater protects the hot and cold water system from leaks due to thermal expansion when the water heater heats the water.

It doesn't work very well because it does not last long. Especially the newer models with both electric and propane water heaters that get very hot. The air bubble will eventually be absorbed by the water, or the bubble will be lost when the water pressure/temperature relief valve on the heater releases water, steam and air.

Then the bubble is gone and the thermal water expansion will find the fitting with the least resistance, or constantly leak out the wp/t relief valve.

We installed a water pressure accumulator which has its own air bubble separated from the water by a rubber membrane, and an air valve so you can put as much air in it as you need. It comes preloaded with 30 psi if you get the one we got at Camping World. I installed it under the bath sink by taking loose the cold water line at the faucet, hooking that line to the accumulator, and running a new supply line from the other side of the accumulator to the faucet.

Here's a picture.
I'm interested in fitting one. Do you have a before pic? I assume the cold feed into the cold water system from any position is ok for fitting. What about the water pump feed?

Also in reply to op, we took delivery of our 2016 FB 30ft 3 weeks ago and although not camped in yet, the water system was pressured and so far no leaks. No leaks from 'holes' in the body either. Again in some Florida downpours.

Our 2015 27 FC (long story but no real issues) did spring a leak on the water line exit from the heater. I look for these things so it was quickly cured.


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