water leaks in new 2016 Flying Cloud

[Bev1940]

Reading about all the leaks and other problems with the new AS, I'm glad I'm still towing my 1978 ! Its not as shiny as I'd like and the inside is pretty plain but the only leak its ever had was around one roof vent!

[westernjeep401]

Yes, new coach, leaked from multiple points from day one, day ... after dealership return, ... after dealership return, and now scheduled for a trip to JC for warranty repairs.

[DHart]

Those considering a new Airstream, don't freak. Our 2016 30' Serenity has been through some heavy downpours, including hail and we haven't found any evidence of a leak. Doesn't mean they aren't happening, but at least there are no evident problems right off the bat. Everything works! Only possible issue is that the fridge didn't seem to be cooling well enough in 100* weather. (Would only go down to 40*). We're in much cooler temps now and it's OK, but still monitoring carefully. And if 100* temps are expected to be the norm in an area where we're "camping", we'll just get on the road to someplace cooler anyway.

[rodsterinfl]

Doug, question on finding leaks, When you find them how do you handle it? The reason I ask is bout the flooring. Do you replace the flooring each time or what are some strategies?

[miskeeta]

2016 flying cloud FB just found leak on rear curved window small but water coming in right where roof panels meet (3)all seams look good so far what did you do.Never used the trailer drove it 250 miles home and a leak nice.same day get a recall for gas regulator travel 500 miles why don't they just send me one
paul

[Medjrd]

We had leaky connections under the bathroom sink, and the fresh water intake leaked into to wardrobe.

[silverbp]

I've been lucky as well. No leaks on my 2014 FC 25. Well correction not from the outside anyway. The filters under the sink had a good leak and made a mess. You would think stuff like that would be checked. Go figure.


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[ttsr4us]

Originally Posted by dkottum

The bubble inside the water heater protects the hot and cold water system from leaks due to thermal expansion when the water heater heats the water.

It doesn't work very well because it does not last long. Especially the newer models with both electric and propane water heaters that get very hot. The air bubble will eventually be absorbed by the water, or the bubble will be lost when the water pressure/temperature relief valve on the heater releases water, steam and air.

Then the bubble is gone and the thermal water expansion will find the fitting with the least resistance, or constantly leak out the wp/t relief valve.

We installed a water pressure accumulator which has its own air bubble separated from the water by a rubber membrane, and an air valve so you can put as much air in it as you need. It comes preloaded with 30 psi if you get the one we got at Camping World. I installed it under the bath sink by taking loose the cold water line at the faucet, hooking that line to the accumulator, and running a new supply line from the other side of the accumulator to the faucet.

Here's a picture.

I'm interested in fitting one. Do you have a before pic? I assume the cold feed into the cold water system from any position is ok for fitting. What about the water pump feed?

Also in reply to op, we took delivery of our 2016 FB 30ft 3 weeks ago and although not camped in yet, the water system was pressured and so far no leaks. No leaks from 'holes' in the body either. Again in some Florida downpours.

Our 2015 27 FC (long story but no real issues) did spring a leak on the water line exit from the heater. I look for these things so it was quickly cured.

Regards

Brian and Esta

[smr95032]

My rear window is leaking and the door is leaking as is a large part of the trim/belt trim leaking. I'am the second owner and dont mind doing the fixes my self, it is actually very easy. Most imoirtantly it will be better than from the shitty AS factory. Can I get info on removing the exterior trim in order to reseal this horrible leak, ie; pics and instructions. Thanks a bunch.

[dkottum]

It is more likely leaking from above the belt trim than from the belt itself. Awning support arm mounts, clearance light gaskets, an operating widow latch may need snugging.

Just as insurance I ran a bead of sealant all the way around the top edge of our lower belt line trim, sealed the screws and base of the awning mounts, the center of any external pop rivets used in such places as the Fling Cloud emblems and stainless front stone protector mounts.

[CanonFan]

Newby here. We have been shopping for our first AS and are very close to buying the 2016 23FB. After reading this thread regarding leaks and a thread in the section for Winterizing where several members talked about leaks in their new trailers, I am starting to wonder if this is a good decision. I am very concerned about mold and mildew - this will be a very real problem if I have leaks in the coach and the subfloor gets wet and has little chance of drying out quickly. So, is this a common issue with AS travel trailers? I would expect this sort of issue with less expensive brands, but I never thought it would be a problem with AS. We were very excited about getting our first travel trailer, and we need to make a final decision within 1 week. Now, after reading the posts here, I'm not sure I'm doing the right thing.

[dkottum]

Canonfan.

It's a common issue with all rv's, among the many inspection and maintenance requirements of ownership. We inspect our Airstream subfloor quarterly with a Moisture Detection Meter, along with corrosion inspection and treatment. Learn and do the preventive maintenance, not all difficult.

On the other hand, unlike other brands, we don't worry about body shell delaminating, wood frame rot, slide outs sticking, paint fading,
or the design being outdated in a couple of years (or decades).

[CanonFan]

DKottom,

Maintenance and repairs is not a real problem for me. However, my wife has severe mold allergies - this is why I am so concerned about all the leaks (especially leaks in the structure or hidden water lines) and the subsequent mold issues that will occur. Most people have no issue with mold, so a little leak to most people is not a real issue - even if you aren't aware of it. Unfortunately, it is a very significant issue for us.

[dkottum]

CanonFan,

I understand. I also have severe mold allergies and that's why we do the extra periodic inspection and maintenance. And have severe chemical sensitivity and that's why we bought the Airstream instead of something glued together and full of particle board partitions and cabinets.

[Siegmann]

Originally Posted by dkottum

The bubble inside the water heater protects the hot and cold water system from leaks due to thermal expansion when the water heater heats the water.

It doesn't work very well because it does not last long. Especially the newer models with both electric and propane water heaters that get very hot. The air bubble will eventually be absorbed by the water, or the bubble will be lost when the water pressure/temperature relief valve on the heater releases water, steam and air.

Then the bubble is gone and the thermal water expansion will find the fitting with the least resistance, or constantly leak out the wp/t relief valve.

We installed a water pressure accumulator which has its own air bubble separated from the water by a rubber membrane, and an air valve so you can put as much air in it as you need. It comes preloaded with 30 psi if you get the one we got at Camping World. I installed it under the bath sink by taking loose the cold water line at the faucet, hooking that line to the accumulator, and running a new supply line from the other side of the accumulator to the faucet.

Here's a picture.

For those that do not have an accumulator-- one method to help maintain the air bubble, and that takes no extra effort if you are travelling. Each time you move and have to re-hook the hose (drained), turn on the water spigot and then go inside and turn on a faucet to hot. The air in the hose will go into the heater.

[CanonFan]

Dkottum,

Chemical sensitivities is what drive us to AS, also. AS still has a lot of formaldehyde out gassing, but not nearly as much as any of the other brands.

So, you have the same issues with mold as does my wife. How do you prevent mold and mildew growing inside your TT? You may not know when a leak initially occurs and may have leaked for some time before it is found. Mold growth begins pretty quickly in damp dark areas. This is my biggest concern.

[dkottum]

CanonFan, I hope others chime in with moisture detection and treatment methods. Yes we know they shouldn't build them to leak, but sometimes they do.

We use a moisture meter to probe into the plywood subfloor around the interior perimeter of the Airstream wherever we can reach along with our other inspection items every quarter. If there is a heavy downpour of rain, I may take the opportunity to do the moisture inspection at that time. Or after a wash with lots of rinse water; don't try to force a leak with high pressure.

Once assured that you Airstream is dry, it may be assumed any leaks will start slowly and dry out before mold occurs. I have found four minor leaks in ours, easily found the source and sealed them. It's an ongoing issue related to time, exposure to weather, and travel over roadways, deteriorating sealants and shaking things loose. Never had anything near mold in 4 1/2 years and over 1,000 nights camping. Of course with my chemical sensitivities, chemical treatment is not an option.

If/when I find a leak, I take the screws out of the vinyl base trim and lift the edge of the vinyl finish floor near the moisture so it can air out. Then I look above to locate the source of the leak, and seal it. Windows, entrance door hinges, awning brackets, roof openings are likely locations.

Another source of moisture in the Airstream is condensation in cold weather. You will usually see it on the windows, assume it may then be in the walls. Take steps to ventilate and prevent it. If conditions cannot prevent it, follow with a moisture inspection of the subfloor. Traveling about the country, we have had a few issues with this but not frequent.

[Ron A]

I too am sensitive to mold & chemical smell. I have had my airstream for 15 months & have no issue. I have had other campers & utility trailers all of which can develop a leak. When you are pulling something down the road it is like your camper is in an earthquake. Just imagine the bouncing & twisting all the joints must take. Once you get a checklist & a routine maintenance schedule going it will not seem so overwhelming. Best of luck in your decision.


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[OTRA15]

These Dampp Chasers are great for keeping mildew at bay. There are other brands. Basically a low wattage 110 volt heating wand originally designed to keep closets in old houses fresh.

Our family has used them for generations, my old AS always had them during winter storage, and the new FC20 has two plugged in right now.

http://www.dampp-chaser.com/home

Our local hardware store carries them in various lengths, and Amazon has a similar item from a different mfg..

[SeaLevel]

Amazon has that brand in different lengths too. Here is one:

http://www.amazon.com/Dampp-Chaser-D...e+dehumidifier