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geeman · 08-11-2017, 07:03 AM

Re 2011 FC 30, in transit I had a considerable amount of water on bathroom floor. Water also on top shelf in cabinet below bathroom sink. No evidence of any water dripping from water lines to faucet or from drain. I'm not near a city water hook up, but pump works fine for kitchen, shower, and toilet. The pump water stream for bathroom sink is very weak, but there is no leaking when water turned on. Any ideas?

SteveSueMac · 08-11-2017, 07:40 AM

Do you travel with your pump switch on? I so, I recommend not doing that. Little bumps here and there might confuse the system and turn water on when you don't want it. There may be other things to think of but that was top of mind for me. Good luck!

geeman · 08-11-2017, 08:03 AM

Thanks for the response. Yes I did have the pump on, and we did hit some serious bumps in construction areas on I-10. I'm puzzled though on where the water came from. The sink was dry, leading me to believe it did not come out of the faucet.

TG Twinkie · 08-11-2017, 08:51 AM

Sounds like a fitting is leaking under the sink and above the shelf. May only leak when under pressure (pump on) along with vibration and/or stress caused by the coach bouncing down the road.
Why have the pump powered while traveling?

ventport · 08-11-2017, 08:59 AM

My 77 Argosy had water all over the floor and around the toilet after a rough trip. Discovered it was coming from the shower when going over bumpy roads. Now I just set the shower head on the floor of the shower when traveling. Problem solved.

geeman · 08-11-2017, 09:00 AM

Thanks TG. Pump on. Dumb oversight. Checked for leaks but negative. Will check again. Still puzzled.

OTRA15 · 08-11-2017, 09:06 AM

Also check all fittings under sink, especially threaded connections for flexible runs up to faucets, as well as the P-trap threaded connections. Next time on city water maybe double check for leaks everywhere too.

graysailor · 08-11-2017, 11:10 AM

I usually put a lot of stuff into the kitchen sink when traveling. Once I left the pump on and one of the items bumped into the faucet. Upon arriving at my destination my sink was full of water and one Keurig coffee maker destroyed. Check the water pump and make sure it is off.

DonRich7878 · 08-11-2017, 11:52 AM

If it only happens occasionally when you travel on rough roads, then the water on the floor is from the toilet having too much water in the bowl and sloshing out. Lower the level to only a couple inches above the ball valve. Enough to seal, but not enough to splash out.

eggman · 08-11-2017, 12:00 PM

Is exhaust fan open ? or leaking?

TG Twinkie · 08-11-2017, 12:38 PM

The toilet water doesn't explain the water on the shelf under the sink.

CAV · 08-11-2017, 01:01 PM

Water pump off when in transit. Rubber band around faucet and handle as precaution.
Check sink drain, P trap, and lock nut. Mine worked loose on road; under sink was soaked. Wrapped plumbers tape around threads and secured locknut. It's been dry ever since.

TBRich · 08-11-2017, 02:18 PM

Is your black water flush system inlet port behind the vanity? And did you use it before you hit the road? If so, perhaps the leak came from the inside of that inlet...they are notorious for leaking, but will only do so when under pressure and while being used. Just a thought.

geeman · 08-12-2017, 08:11 AM

Thanks TBRich. That's definitely a possibility. I can't find any leaks anywhere else. I'm in storage now, but the next time I'm hooked up that's definitely something to check. I did run water through there for a good bit before I hit the road. If that is the culprit, any idea how to get in there to replace the inlet? Or should I have it done?

OTRA15 · 08-12-2017, 10:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by geeman

Thanks TBRich. That's definitely a possibility. I can't find any leaks anywhere else. I'm in storage now, but the next time I'm hooked up that's definitely something to check. I did run water through there for a good bit before I hit the road. If that is the culprit, any idea how to get in there to replace the inlet? Or should I have it done?

I think he is referring to the vacuum breaker anti-siphon valve, and the plastic ones tend to leak more than the newer brass devices. Your 2011 AS most likely has a plastic one. We do also in our 2014, and the dealer sent a new brass one to swap in.

Search results for "vacuum breaker anti siphon" with other mentions of this in a variety of threads:

https://www.google.com/search?q=vacu...=airforums.com

Each AS model has this device in a different spot, and some are quite accessible and some require a partial disassembly of the interior for access. We would have to remove our rear dinette seat in the FC20, so this project is not on the top of the to-do list.

Next time your city water is available, I suggest replicating the leak as the first order of business.

Good luck!

Peter

TBRich · 08-13-2017, 02:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by OTRA15

I think he is referring to the vacuum breaker anti-siphon valve, and the plastic ones tend to leak more than the newer brass devices. Your 2011 AS most likely has a plastic one. We do also in our 2014, and the dealer sent a new brass one to swap in.

Search results for "vacuum breaker anti siphon" with other mentions of this in a variety of threads:

https://www.google.com/search?q=vacu...=airforums.com

Each AS model has this device in a different spot, and some are quite accessible and some require a partial disassembly of the interior for access. We would have to remove our rear dinette seat in the FC20, so this project is not on the top of the to-do list.

Next time your city water is available, I suggest replicating the leak as the first order of business.

Good luck!

Peter

Yes, that is what I was referring to. If it's leaking while the flush system is being used, it could be squirting toward the vanity ... then, of course when disconnected form city water is no longer leaking... In our 19' the flush inlet is behind the vanity and you can "sort of" access it through there ... though it's a real pain. I'm not sure if this can be done from the outside...maybe. Others who have dealt with this would be able to answer that. We have been lucky...our original is still working, but I am very careful not to use full blast city water pressure through the rise system .. I'd bet full city waster pressure helps it fail more often than it should.

tadpoletim · 08-14-2017, 09:55 AM

We had curious similar or related incident on our way home from an overnight campout yesterday in our 2005 30' Classic SO. Pump was off. When we stopped at a rest area after climbing to the top of the Coquihalla Highway in BC there was water on the bathroom floor which I attributed to overflow from the toilet as this was full to the brim. Curious to know how this happened! I turned off the water supply cock behind the bowl after mopping up, and may make this standard practice unless I can find another way to ensure it does not happen again.

OTRA15 · 08-14-2017, 02:50 PM

Does your unit have an air accumulator in the plumbing system? If so, after you turn the pump off for towing, you have to open a faucet and run the water until nothing flows out. If you don't do this, the water trapped in the lines is still under pressure, and the air in the accumulator will still push quite a volume of water out.

Even without a dedicated air accumulator, the water heater has a head of air trapped at the top [for safety reasons -- to expand when the water heats up without causing the pressure-relief valve to open], so it also performs like a small air accumulator.

Does your toilet valve work 100% correctly? Next time you are on city water, check to see if the toilet water is running maybe just a little bit. The valves can get grit in them and permit water to flow even in the Off position IMO. Best to use a filter for the hose BTW on both city water and when you fill the tank, as grit can also affect various back-flow check valves elsewhere in the trailer.

Good luck!

Peter

tadpoletim · 08-15-2017, 09:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by OTRA15

Does your unit have an air accumulator in the plumbing system? If so, after you turn the pump off for towing, you have to open a faucet and run the water until nothing flows out. If you don't do this, the water trapped in the lines is still under pressure, and the air in the accumulator will still push quite a volume of water out.

Even without a dedicated air accumulator, the water heater has a head of air trapped at the top [for safety reasons -- to expand when the water heats up without causing the pressure-relief valve to open], so it also performs like a small air accumulator.

Does your toilet valve work 100% correctly? Next time you are on city water, check to see if the toilet water is running maybe just a little bit. The valves can get grit in them and permit water to flow even in the Off position IMO. Best to use a filter for the hose BTW on both city water and when you fill the tank, as grit can also affect various back-flow check valves elsewhere in the trailer.

Good luck!

Peter

Thanks for your helpful suggestions Peter. I will investigate as you suggest, meanwhile will not only turn off pump but also open sink faucet before towing so as to ensure there is no chance of recurrence.