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Old 07-23-2011, 03:05 PM   #15
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We fulltime in Texas and wouldn't be caught dead in direct sunlight. As you've noticed, after a few days, you turn into the bug under the magnifying glass. On a three digit day, we can keep the Airstream at 75 if we're in shade, have every window and sky light covered with "bubble wrap", keep the AC on auto (high cool at night), and blast a lasko-style fan to keep the air circulating. We did upgrade our AC to a 15, but don't expect that to be the game changer. I agree with the above posts that if you get a jump on the heat early in the day by keeping things closed up and cool, you'll have a much better chance of keeping things relatively comfortable. The more fans the better in my book! We're actually installing two in the one we're renovating. Ahhhhhhhh. Good luck and stay cool.
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Old 07-23-2011, 03:14 PM   #16
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Another option is to apply a reflective ceramic based coating to the roof. You may already have a white factory roof but it's just paint.
We always try to find shady sites but last week we were in Ft. Pickens Campground at Pensacola Beach. Most of the trees had been removed--courtesy of the last hurricane. I applied the ceramic based coating to the roof on our 34 a couple of years ago. At Ft. Pickens the temperatures were scorching hot (high 90s) and the single 15K BTU AC was able to keep the interior in the mid 70s. I highly doubt this would be possible without the coating on the roof.
I used Ceramiflex, made by Sealoflex. Hydrostop has a similar ceramic based product. It reflects considerable heat--a little reasearch on each company's website will give you the particulars on its relective qualities.
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Old 07-23-2011, 11:36 PM   #17
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I used Ceramiflex, made by Sealoflex. Hydrostop has a similar ceramic based product. It reflects considerable heat--a little research on each company's website will give you the particulars on its reflective qualities.
Interesting. Did you apply two coats as recommended in their literature? How much did you use to do the roof of your 34' Airstream? How did you apply it?
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Old 07-24-2011, 08:14 AM   #18
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Vaughan,
Actually applied 3 coats. Did 2 and it just looked like it wanted another coat. I applied it with a brush and 1/2" nap roller having taped along the seams for a clean edge. The product lays down nicely and only has minimal texture to it. Used about 2 1/2 gallons for 3 coats.

You only have to clean the surface with soap and water before application--no exotic chemicals that could hurt the rest of the exterior. It has been on there for a couple of years and still looks like new.
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Old 07-24-2011, 11:35 AM   #19
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Vaughan,
Actually applied 3 coats. Did 2 and it just looked like it wanted another coat. I applied it with a brush and 1/2" nap roller having taped along the seams for a clean edge. The product lays down nicely and only has minimal texture to it. Used about 2 1/2 gallons for 3 coats.

You only have to clean the surface with soap and water before application--no exotic chemicals that could hurt the rest of the exterior. It has been on there for a couple of years and still looks like new.
Thanks Bill!

How long did you wait between coats?
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Old 07-24-2011, 08:10 PM   #20
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All three coats went on in the same day. It was dry enough to walk on in a couple hours. A cloudy or very humid day will slow down the cure time, obviously but the stuff dries quickly. I wouldn't put the last coat on if you don't have at least a few hours before sundown. Optimally, a coat a day would be best if you can do it. I live in a neighborhood with restrictions against trailers in the driveway so I was motivated to get it done and back in its covered storage location before I caught any heat.

If you decide to do it, it would be interesting to get some before and after temperature readings to see exactly what impact it has--I didn't think to do it but I know it makes a real difference.
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Old 07-24-2011, 09:12 PM   #21
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Has anyone ever tried giving the trailer a rinse down during the heat of the day to see if you can lower the temp inside? The water itself will provide cooling as well as the evaporation from the droplets on the skin.
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Old 07-24-2011, 10:03 PM   #22
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Has anyone ever tried giving the trailer a rinse down during the heat of the day to see if you can lower the temp inside? The water itself will provide cooling as well as the evaporation from the droplets on the skin.
See ĺ View of Foggers in Action - You canít see the spray against the sky. It is necessary to get a dark background for it to show. Photo Gallery

Before I upgraded my AC. It works, but really takes more than just a spray with a hose. A lawn sprinkler would work too.
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Old 07-25-2011, 06:08 AM   #23
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So , how long does the water need to run? Did you have it on a timer?
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Old 07-25-2011, 08:32 AM   #24
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So , how long does the water need to run? Did you have it on a timer?
It needs to run at least a couple of hours. If the sun is out, things start to get hot again almost as soon as you shut off the water.

I used a drip irrigation kit and with misters instead of drippers. I also used a battery powered timer. If you click through the photos, there are pictures of the box the kit came in and of the timer.
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Old 07-23-2012, 03:48 PM   #25
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I did yet another test yesterday and with the trailer parked in the sun midday at about 87 degrees, the A/C was blowing 58 degrees at the discharge but would never cool the trailer below 85 until the sun went behind the clouds and the outside temp dropped a bit. Airstream said to call Dometic, so I spoke to Dometic and they had no real answers other than it appeared to be working correctly. For the life of me I can never remember the 1979 25’ not cooling regardless of conditions. I also did not have any issues with our last two R-Vision products which were double hard sided with solid foam insulation wall construction. The Airstream does not appear to be as well insulated as the 25k units. This is very disappointing! Is there less insulation in the new A/S trailers? What about the aluminum inside skin would this have less insulation value than the old fiber board? Just wondering out loud why it is not able to cool? I don’t believe being kept cool at 87 degrees in the sun is too much to expect. Never has been!

Since most of our Airstream experience is in CO, CA and AZ (general southwest) it is very hard to find shade. If you do find shade you are likely to have a trailer covered with tree sap. I for one do not want to cover all the windows, skylight, vents etc. with Relectix insulation. My wife would never go if she could not open up the blinds/curtains and look out. This is why we go in the trailer to enjoy the great outdoors. Really, you guys do this?

I do not want to feel like I need to live in a “boarded up” tomb to keep cool, even if it does look good on the outside.

Options appear to be:

1) Put a new 15,000 Dometic Brisk Air in hoping it will cool better and be a bit quieter.
2) Coat the roof with Ceramiflex by Sealoflex.
3) Huper Optik window tinting. This is the very best thermal window film available and I just had it put in our new tow vehicle. It is also very expensive.
4) Make some sort of external “clip on” hanging exterior solar shades to fit each window. Maybe Velcro?? This way we can still look out and enjoy being there.
5) Additional window awnings. This is somewhat impractical, often blocks the view, also expensive and does not cover them all.

I am leaning toward 1 – 3.
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Old 07-23-2012, 04:05 PM   #26
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So you're seeing on the order of a 27-degree drop in air temperature from the intake to the outlet on your AC unit... that's well within spec I think.

It sounds like there's just too much heat coming in from the shell, skylights, etc. I doubt that expensive tint on teh already-tinted windows is going to make enough difference to be worth the hassle, though it might help on an older trailer with clear windows.

Adding another 10% of capacity to the AC unit might help, but that's an expensive option. Aren't brand-new Airstreams already white-coated on the center part of the roof? The previous owner of my Argosy put Ceramiflex on the roof and I think that contributes to the Argosy being cool enough even with its old Armstrong AC unit. It does get up into the low 80s when I'm in the sun and it's 100F outside, but it removes a lot of moisture from the air and keeps it livable inside, and you could hang meat in there once the sun isn't beating down on the skin.

One thing a lot of people with clear-window trailers do (and some with tint as well) is to make covers for the windows from one brand or another of the silver bubble-wrap insulation. It would seem to me that would be most effective outside, but also most difficult to apply. It's probably a huge win stuffed into the skylights/clear vents. If you were doing the clip-on thing you describe in #4 with the silver bubble-wrap stuff that might make a difference.
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Old 07-23-2012, 09:26 PM   #27
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check out this thread:
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f454...ows-43580.html
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Old 07-23-2012, 11:00 PM   #28
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My new GMC 2500HD Crew Cab has the heavy tinted windows from the factory and yet the Huper Optik has made a significant difference in the heat load when parked, as it is always outside due to the fact that it wonít fit in the garage, and even more so when driving. We have been setting the climate control considerably higher to keep from getting too cold.

As far as I understand the white rubber roof does not have any type of properties or coatings specifically for heat reflection or dissipation.


richinny, Thank you for the link. I might consider the Relectix in the rear most/wrap bedroom windows as we donít typically open those curtains much, but I would prefer not deal with it when we do.

The goal is to enjoy our new Airstream as purchased not all closed up. I am going with the 15000, tinting the windows with the Huper Optik and the Ceramiflex roof coating. If that does not make it comfortable when hot than Iíll have an extra 13,500 so maybe that goes in the bedroom.

I really want to be able to open the blinds/curtains and enjoy even when it is hot.
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