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Radio Ranch · 09-28-2016, 11:13 PM

Yes, the leak didn't occur when connected to city water. It occurred when the water heater caused the pressure on the pex lines to increase to over 100 PSI (pressure that can be relieved by briefly opening a faucet). I measured pressures as high as 140 PSI on the water line in the trailer when running the water heater. This is why the heater has a 150 PSI pressure relief.

The pex side of the city water inlet has whatever pressure the water lines within the trailer has. The city water inlet has a check valve to keep trailer water from spurting out the inlet when not connected to city water. The water pressure on the cold water line will approximate that of the hot water line as they are contiguous through the heater.

I hope that this helps. In any case it is something to watch for since it is a likely failure point. The inlet manual says to avoid using rigid tubing (which Pex is).

-John

Robere · 09-29-2016, 03:27 PM

After revisiting the city water input port for indications of a leak with the water heater turned-on, I discovered moisture on the inside plastic connector accessible under the kitchen sink. Tightening the connector did not help so I removed the entire assembly and wrapped the plastic threads with teflon tape. VOILA! End of leak. An accumulator sounds like a great idea so I'll purchase and install one as well. Thank you everyone and especially those of you that kept me focused on the city water input port. I learn more from this forum than from anyone at the dealer or factory. You guys (and gals) ARE the A team.

Adambomb510 · 09-29-2016, 05:18 PM

I wish I had found this thread last week! I had the exact same thing happen on my 30' serenity and I ended up having to tow it several hours back to the dealer for them to diagnose. Glad you got yours fixed easily!

Robere · 09-29-2016, 06:24 PM

Once again the value of the Airstream owners forum. The dealers seem to feel that we like towing our rigs hundreds of miles for five minute repairs.

OTRA15 · 09-30-2016, 05:22 AM

Great news that the leak is fixed. Thanks for the follow up. The water line at the back of the city water inlet is of course also pressurized when using the pump only [not city water], so the leak makes sense in either case. May I also repeat the suggestion that you consider ensuring that the head of air, trapped at the top of the water heater, is up to specs? In a sense this trapped air is in effect a little accumulator built in to the design of all water heaters to prevent water pressure from getting too high as the water heats.

Thanks again for the update and happy trails!

Peter

Quote:

Originally Posted by Robere

Once again the value of the Airstream owners forum. The dealers seem to feel that we like towing our rigs hundreds of miles for five minute repairs.

dkottum · 09-30-2016, 06:09 AM

We put in the Shurflo accumulator because the air bubble in the top of the water heater would not stay there in either of our two Airstreams. Turning the water heater off at night or when not used helps, but the air would sooner or later be expelled out the pressure relief valve.

The important difference of the accumulator is a rubber membrane separates the air cushion from the water. The air cannot be lost. The accumulator also makes the water system operate more smoothly, and when the water pump is turned off it keeps a little reserve water under pressure so a short opening of a faucet does not kick the pump on immediately.

It's an easy, trouble-free and worthwhile improvement.

OTRA15 · 09-30-2016, 06:18 AM

Belts and suspenders IMO. If the air head trapped inside at the top of the water heater, as designed by the mfg., is gone entirely, that is not good, so folks should endeavor to maintain it, even with an accumulator installed inline.

Good insurance to have both IMO.

VTSmitty · 09-30-2016, 09:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Robere

Do you have directions or a photo of the modification of the white back panel under the sink of your trailer? Robere

Robere,

Glad to hear that you got the problem fixed! One thing I learned from this thread was the idea of putting a flexible hose on the city water connector; I don't like how tight and difficult it is to get to from the outside, and that idea should help. Also, when we had the problem we talked to Airstream, and they felt that as long as the problem hadn't been going on for too long (more than a season or two), and was intermittent, there should be no floor damage. We checked that out when we fixed the fitting, and everything looked fine.

Here are pictures of the accumulator in the same space as the water pump (again, works for a 23FB only), and how we got access to the plumbing under the sink. That picture shows the drawers removed, and the removable panel we created.

Dan

Robere · 09-30-2016, 08:45 PM

The teflon tape lasted about 24 hours. Airstream is sending a new city water port and I ordered a Shurflo accumulator on Amazon. I'll update everyone when everything is replaced, installed, and tested for more than a few days. Standby.

Robere · 10-19-2016, 10:23 AM

Ordered, received, and installed a SUREflo 182-200 Pre-Pressurized Accumulator Tank under the roadside hanging closet near the pump with a 1/2" x 1/2" x 36" FIP reinforced PVC Faucet Connector from ACE Hardware. The city water port-pressure reducer assembly arrived from Airstream under warranty which I installed with a 1/2" x 1/2" x 30" FIP reinforced PVC Faucet Connector with a gender changer on the interior side connection of the port to reduce stress. For about $60 I believe the leak is behind us........for now or until encountering the next pot hole. Thanks to everyone for your expert advice.