is it OK and how long of screws - TV install

[Anders79]

On my 2010 25 FB Flying cloud -I want to install 24" TV in bedroom on the wall between bedroom and shower. In tapping the wall - does not sound like any studs. was going to install mounting bracket in middle. The TV weighs 9 lbs and the bracket weighs 3.5 lbs. Anybody know how long a screw i can use to mount the bracket without puncturing shower? Is screwing bracket just into wall strong enough? Any other insights / things i need to know. Decided to post here - since problem is specific to a 25' (or bigger?) flying cloud.

[HowieE]

If no one with direct experience posts an answer I would contact Jackson Center and ask if the show wall is applied directly to the bedroom wall or is there is a gab. Also ask if Airstream installs a mounting board behind the wall for just this purpose.

If there is a gap and no backer board installed I would drill a test hole in the wall and measure the distance to the shower wall. If there is enough room between the walls I would use Molly bolts at the top of the bracket. The wall is most likely not a solid structure but rather a honeycomb panel and thus would not hold a screw.

[AirstreamJim]

On my '07 Safari SE 25FB (basically the same as your 2010 FC) there is a gap between the bedroom wall and the shower wall. The bedroom wall is screwed into the "studs" along each side from floor to ceiling; the screws have plastic caps over them to "hide" them. I removed the wall, which seems rather flimsy to me, and installed a sheet metal plate on the back side for additional strength, through which I drilled holes and ran the tv mount bracket bolts. I used the shortest bolts I could find at Home Depot which matched the bolt thread and diameter that came with the tv mount. Put the wall back up and hung the tv on the swivel arm mount and have enjoyed tv in the bedroom ever since.

Jim

[Retail6]

Did the same thing in my rig except used Fender Washers and Nylon insert lock nuts.

[Wingeezer]

Not familiar with the construction, but if like the corresponding wall in our Classic 30, they seem pretty flimsy even, if there is space in back between the shower.

Would there not be framing members at the wall side and at door side?

Perhaps you could span from side to side with some substantial narrow plywood panel, maybe 8" wide or so, securely screwed to the frame members on each side and painted or wrapped for better appearance, then securely bolt the tv bracket to it?

For that matter, I suppose you could add a full size plywood panel patterned to match the existing wall dimensions if you wanted, again securing it to the side frames.

Brian.

[cazual6]

you will be safe with 1/4 to 3/8" into the wood. You will need more than four to make it secure. Depending what kind of mount you have, you may need to make more holes in your mount. I would say at least eight screws would be minimum.

1/4" screw on "wood" has a hold power vertical (pull it straight out) pulled of at least 7lbs with at least three threads into the wood. Lateral forces, pull straight down of at least 12lbs. These all vary on hardness of wood. But use these numbers as a general guide line.

In a trailer, forces on that screw will be in all three dimensions, thus at least eight, more if you can.

If you plan on installing a swing arm mount, make sure you have a way to secure it in the rest position (closest to the wall) and lock it during travel.

[Anders79]

Great advice -- didn't realize you could take the wall off the studs easily. Jim or retail6 - how did you attach the metal plate? may go this way or just connect plywood to studs as Brian suggested.

[MelGoddard]

Originally Posted by cazual6

you will be safe with 1/4 to 3/8" into the wood. You will need more than four to make it secure. Depending what kind of mount you have, you may need to make more holes in your mount. I would say at least eight screws would be minimum.

1/4" screw on "wood" has a hold power vertical (pull it straight out) pulled of at least 7lbs with at least three threads into the wood. Lateral forces, pull straight down of at least 12lbs. These all vary on hardness of wood. But use these numbers as a general guide line.

In a trailer, forces on that screw will be in all three dimensions, thus at least eight, more if you can.

If you plan on installing a swing arm mount, make sure you have a way to secure it in the rest position (closest to the wall) and lock it during travel.

Would Chicago screws work
Drill into the shower and waterproof the nut on that side

(Just thinking aloud)

Look after your equipment, it will look after you😉

[AirstreamJim]

I drilled holes in the plate (it's not thick, just there to keep the bolts from pulling through the lightweight wall material) and the wall to match the bolt holes in the TV mount. Made a sandwich of plate - wall - mount, threaded the bolts through the sandwich, put a washer followed by a nut, tightened it up, and done.

There is no need or reason to drill through the shower wall. I would go without TV in the bedroom before I would do that.

Jim

[dvewing]

I did this in my 2009 28' FC RB. Fairly easy, but keep in mind that the clearance behind the panel is not consistent. Use the shortest bolts necessary and back them with fender washers. The bolts I used do not touch the shower enclosure. I used an adjustable wall mount (Amazon) that mates with a plate attached to the TV. This allows me to easily stow the TV while traveling or take it back into the house when not traveling. No problem supporting a 22" Samsung flat screen TV. I also routed cable and a power cord behind the panel to outlets near the base of the panel. I found it easier to route the cords to the edges of the enclosure as the shower corners are rounded and there was more space for the cords. When picking a mount, be sure to get one that adjusts for a good viewing angle. When installing, mount the TV high enough that it doesn't become an obstacle when passing by it. Please excuse the photos, left is up.

[Anders79]

Have not yet taken anything apart in my AS yet - so still a novice
before unscrewing the wall from the studs, there is some moulding around the edge of the wall - do i need to take this off first (and if so how?). Also - the thermostat and light switch are on the wall --- and advice on how to remove these.

[AirstreamJim]

If it's the same as mine, the molding doesn't have to come off. I left the thermostat and light switch on. You can't take the wall too far off that way (the wires don't let it go too far) but it was enough to get the job done for me. I drilled all the holes first, then reached behind to attach and tighten the nuts to the bolts.

There are RV-specific TV mounts that have locking mechanisms to lock the arm in place while the trailer is in motion, you shouldn't have to jury-rig a way to secure the TV or remove the TV while under way.

Jim

[Hiho Silver]

Airstream uses 3/4" plywood on the walls. I screwed my articulating tv mount right into the wall. Just used wood screws, works great.


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[Castaway]

Originally Posted by Hiho Silver

Airstream uses 3/4" plywood on the walls. I screwed my articulating tv mount right into the wall. Just used wood screws, works great.


Sent from my iPhone using Airstream Forums

What he said, traveled over 20,000 miles and no problems yet

[Anders79]

just to wrap up this chain --- I stil could not figure out how to partially remove the wall in the bedroom (to put metal bracket in for added support for tv bracket), so decided to just try the wood screws. Used ~3/4" screws that go in the hole ~ 1/2 inch (other 1/4" in the wall bracket) and they tightened up and seem real strong. 1/2 inch is as much room before hitting the shower wall on the other side. It is not 3/4" plywood used in our 2010 AS, as it sounds like might be on newer ones --but appears to be more like 1/4". Never the less - seem pretty rock solid. And the 24"smart TV (and bracket) is relatively light (~13 lbs) so think this should work fine. Thanks for all the advice.