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Old 10-10-2016, 10:40 PM   #1
The Aluminum Tent 3
 
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2014 23' Flying Cloud
Park City , Utah
Join Date: Aug 2015
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Bedroom drawers wound up on the floor. How to secure?

Picked up my new to me 2014 FC 23 FB and towed it about 350 miles today after putting clothes in the street side drawers under the wardrobe closet. Upon arrival, BOTH drawers had slid out onto the floor. A piece of hardware was torn out by the screws as well, haven't looked yet to see what it is. Appears to be something that attaches underneath a drawer, possibly a latch to allow drawer removal. Will check it out after I wake up with some energy in the am.

Pretty ridiculous, I know 'it's an RV" but you'd think that well secured drawers would be a basic thing to get right, especially on a product that costs what these do. It was smooth highway towing too, not some crazy dirt road.

Anyway...any tips on best way to secure these drawers so they don't come out again and next time damage surrounding wood work. (Ps the black plastic latches aren't broken)
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Old 10-11-2016, 12:30 AM   #2
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2014 20' Flying Cloud
Sag Harbor , New York
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This is a common problem, and it seems as if the drawer slides used on the 2014 AS were part of the cause. Check out Posts #289-290, 1048 and 1083 on the 20-footer thread, as Bob [CruizinDux] and I both posted about this.

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f516...rs-127845.html

There are other threads which cover similar issues, for instance:

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f240...ns-148215.html

I had to glue our bottom pots/pans drawer back together and use longer screws to attach the slide pieces to the drawer and cabinet.

Good luck!

Peter

PS -- Edit -- My solution also includes the very low tech, and visually imperfect, addition of bungee cords to keep all drawers, oven, fridge and closet closed while on the road. See Post #1101 from 7/9/16, also in the 20-footer thread.

PS2 -- Congratulations on the new trailer! I guess that missing track/folding room divider in the 20' did not work out? Did you ever get the low-down on why it was missing?
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Old 10-11-2016, 03:10 AM   #3
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1977 31' Sovereign
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If you have problems with a bank of drawers, a couple ring screws and a wood rod is an easy answer. I use it in my 1963 bedroom. It may also help to soften the ride. Check the recommended inflation pressure for your tires. You might not need to inflate them to the maximum pressure printed on their sidewalls.
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Old 10-11-2016, 03:45 AM   #4
CRH
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1995 25' Excella
xxxxx , xxxxxx
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I use child safety latches
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Old 10-11-2016, 04:46 AM   #5
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Lakes Region , New Hampshire
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The best thing you could do would be to replace the drawer slides with self closing slides, these are the ones that when you push them closed they pull themselves in the last inch or so, they also hold themselves closed. You would just need some of the info about the ones currently installed to find a suitable replacement.
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Old 10-11-2016, 06:58 AM   #6
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Battle Lake , Minnesota
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As mentioned above, take a look at tire pressures as well as balance and round. The hitch and setup needs flexibility in it. Andy R. from Inland RV suggests jumping on the hitch connection to look for a an inch of so of flex, low tech and simple advice.

The drawers should not come on smooth (or rough) roadway out if latched and the latch is adjusted properly. Check to see if they click into place when closed.
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Old 10-11-2016, 11:46 AM   #7
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2013 30' Classic
Greenwood , Mississippi
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We haven't really found a solution, but a work-around.
We put the pillows on the floor where we know the drawers will come out while towing.
We are headed to Texas via rough I-20 through Louisiana tomorrow and I filled the fresh water tank to help soften the ride.
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Old 10-11-2016, 11:58 AM   #8
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Fleming Island , Florida
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I bought a package of magnetic key child safety locks. I had to modify the drawers to install them, but they work great. Here's my post on the installation:
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f38/...ml#post1842909

Al
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Old 10-11-2016, 12:14 PM   #9
CRH
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The plastic child safety latches I used only require a few screws inside the drawer and are hidden out of sight. The latch is not visible from the outside. A 12 pack is about 4 bucks at Lowes.
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Old 10-11-2016, 12:34 PM   #10
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2007 28' Classic
Ivanhoe , Virginia
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We only have one nightstand drawer and we set it on the floor while traveling. Have thought about child safety latches.
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Old 10-11-2016, 01:20 PM   #11
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2015 25' FB International
North Kingstown , Rhode Island
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We use a clean simple solution.
Place your awning pole through the pulls on the drawer face.
It makes them very secure.
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Old 10-11-2016, 01:20 PM   #12
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2000 25' Excella
Northern , California
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The drawers running parallel to the front-back axis of the trailer are especially vulnerable. The solution described by CRH works very well. It's easily installed, and doesn't affect the exterior aesthetics. We've been using these "locks" for over 16 years, so far, without incident. The particular brand that we use is called "kinder-guard". I don't know if it's still made, but something like it is. It allows you to open the drawer slightly, while you easily push down on the retention lever to open the drawer the rest of the way.
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Old 10-11-2016, 01:26 PM   #13
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2003 28' Safari S/O
Atlanta Burbs , Georgia
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The plastic latching mechanisms that came with my Airstream were inadequate for the job, broke frequently, and released without provocation (it seemed) until I found a double ball catch solution. These catches come in different sizes, the bearing pressure can be adjusted, and are impressively durable. Mine hold drawers closed even crossing the infamous Louisiana I-10 rollercoaster!

Example:
https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-Brass-.../dp/B00FH4GVLG

Others may cite various issues for you exclude in your search for "why" such as wheels out of balance, a too stiff suspension on your TV, etc., but this worked for me.
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Old 10-11-2016, 01:30 PM   #14
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2014 20' Flying Cloud
Washington , Missouri
Join Date: Mar 2014
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Al and Missy View Post
I bought a package of magnetic key child safety locks. I had to modify the drawers to install them, but they work great. Here's my post on the installation:
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f38/...ml#post1842909

Al

Al & Missy, these are really slick with ingenious magnetics and use of reverse polarity for the open function. I was sold when the vendor said they sell them by the boxes to hospitals to secure meds in patient rooms. I bought ours at a local hardware vendor. That way you can buy just the pieces you want vs a 5 pack.

http://www.rev-a-shelf.com/p-192-cab...cessories.aspx

Note they may not work in every situation, but frankly looking at A &M's mods, I may revisit that.

Bob
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Old 10-11-2016, 06:11 PM   #15
Richard
 
2006 30' Classic S/O
Merced , California
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Randy NH has the only permanent solution. Search on Woodworkers Hardware. Download the catalog. Get the self closing or stay closed hardware. Get new hardware for all your drawers and enjoy your Airstream.
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Old 10-11-2016, 06:44 PM   #16
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Drowers falling out.

:c ool:
Quote:
Originally Posted by pcskier View Post
Picked up my new to me 2014 FC 23 FB and towed it about 350 miles today after putting clothes in the street side drawers under the wardrobe closet. Upon arrival, BOTH drawers had slid out onto the floor. A piece of hardware was torn out by the screws as well, haven't looked yet to see what it is. Appears to be something that attaches underneath a drawer, possibly a latch to allow drawer removal. Will check it out after I wake up with some energy in the am.

Pretty ridiculous, I know 'it's an RV" but you'd think that well secured drawers would be a basic thing to get right, especially on a product that costs what these do. It was smooth highway towing too, not some crazy dirt road.

Anyway...any tips on best way to secure these drawers so they don't come out again and next time damage surrounding wood work. (Ps the black plastic latches aren't broken)

Remember it does no matter what U paid for UR unit it is the people U travel with in the club that is important

I have been a Airstream member from 1990 to present and the Airstream traler is not built any better than an other trailer on the market. The best part of an airstream is the axles and the aluminum strocktor. The workmanship is no better than any other trailer on the market. The only thing that has kept airstream in business is the WBCCI. Airstream could care less how U feel about there trailer and the problems U may have with it. Take it back for repairs and they will charge big dollars and u hope they did the work right.
End of story
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Old 10-11-2016, 07:34 PM   #17
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2013 30' Classic
Greenwood , Mississippi
Join Date: Oct 2012
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We put pillows on the floor and go ahead and take out the drawers and put them on the pillows.
As we were traveling to Poverty Point in Deli, LA just a little while ago we stopped in Vicksburg, MS for a potty break.
One drawer had come out on its own and was lying on the pillow.
The other drawer was half-way out, so I took it out and placed it on the pillow.


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Old 10-11-2016, 07:43 PM   #18
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2005 30' Classic
Burlington , Ontario
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Had similar problems and resolved it by mounting auxiliary latches at teh backs of the drawers.

They are the tpe that use a spring and ball arrangement as a detent on the striker and the spring tension can be adjusted so as to get the amount of restraining force you want. I bought them from "Lee Valley" here in Canada.

No drawers coming out since installed a year or so back.

Brian.
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Old 10-11-2016, 09:11 PM   #19
The Aluminum Tent 3
 
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2014 23' Flying Cloud
Park City , Utah
Join Date: Aug 2015
Posts: 2,157
Quote:
Originally Posted by OTRA15 View Post
This is a common problem, and it seems as if the drawer slides used on the 2014 AS were part of the cause. Check out Posts #289-290, 1048 and 1083 on the 20-footer thread, as Bob [CruizinDux] and I both posted about this.

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f516...rs-127845.html

There are other threads which cover similar issues, for instance:

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f240...ns-148215.html

I had to glue our bottom pots/pans drawer back together and use longer screws to attach the slide pieces to the drawer and cabinet.

Good luck!

Peter

PS -- Edit -- My solution also includes the very low tech, and visually imperfect, addition of bungee cords to keep all drawers, oven, fridge and closet closed while on the road. See Post #1101 from 7/9/16, also in the 20-footer thread.

PS2 -- Congratulations on the new trailer! I guess that missing track/folding room divider in the 20' did not work out? Did you ever get the low-down on why it was missing?
Thanks for the info! Will follow up on the referenced posts.

The 2013 20 with the missing accordion door sold before I could commit--why the door was not there I never could establish. In any case. Got a great deal on the 2014 23 FB that made it a no brainer. Like a stupidly good deal. Had to drive 1700 miles from UT to TN to get it, but so worth it. Mint condition and I'm loving the storage and the queen bed. Working in some visits to friends and family while out this way. Currently in Cedar Key FL moochdocking and enjoying copious amounts so fresh seafood :-)
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Old 10-11-2016, 09:23 PM   #20
The Aluminum Tent 3
 
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2014 23' Flying Cloud
Park City , Utah
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Thanks everyone for the great info and suggestions! M.hony love yours, really made me grin. As much as I think it's ridiculous we need to make fixes to our ridiculously expensive trailers just to make them functional-- I'll admit there is no other brand I'd have any interest in owning. So I'll roll with the improvements we need to make, and enjoy using it with a song in my heart :-)
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