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Old 08-26-2014, 08:34 PM   #15
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2009 30' Classic
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Is that what you are saying? I guess I don't see why you would ever need to put the switch in "Store" mode if that were the case.
The only reason would be to reduce as much 12v parasitic load as possible so that the battery is not being depleted by say something like a light or fan left on.

Let me say, I'm not advocating one method versus another only stating that's the way it works when the converter/charger is wired between the battery bank and disconnect switch. Obviously, there's no pat answer to the question the OP was asking. The correct answer is, "It depends on how your converter/charger is wired."

I think the lesson from this discussion is regardless of what the manual or dealer tells you every AS owner owes it to himself to personally check to see if their converter/charger is wired before or after the disconnect switch. By knowing which it is, the owner can know for certain the implications for the switch being on "Store" or on "Use" with the goal being to keep the batteries as fully charged as possible and as frequently as possible.
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Old 08-29-2017, 03:51 PM   #16
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OK, I try not to repeat questions that have been covered on the forum previously, but after reading many of the posts, I'm still confused about the "Use/Store" switch on my 2016 Flying Cloud. I know it has a single stage charger which can be hard on battery life, so when I have it parked at the house it is connected to shore power. I keep the switch in the store position and place a trickle charger on the batteries.

My assumption from previous posts is that the store position eliminates the single stage charger to the battery. I know it serves to keep parasitic voltages from draining the battery, but am unclear as to whether i need to physically remove the positive terminal from the battery or if the store switch essentially does that for me.
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Old 08-29-2017, 04:03 PM   #17
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Unfortunately, some Airstream trailers (mine included) have a propane leak detector that is wired straight to the batteries, bypassing the installed use/store switch relay. That and the sub-woofer could possibly cause a fairly stout parasitic load. That little quirk, befor I got smarter, killed a nice set of batteries in a year...

My rig is now (DIY) wired so that the solar panel charge controller is tied direct to the batteries, so my use/store switch does not cut off the charging I get from the sun. This allows me to keep my batteries well-charged all the time, and keeps the solar charger from lighting the red power LED on the use/store switch even if the batteries are in 'store'. That eliminated some confusion on my part (grin).

Now, if the red LED is lighted, either I am actually running on batteries, or my convertor is powering the 12v bus from shore power. In either case, the batteries are always maintained by solar power...
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