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Old 08-26-2014, 07:34 PM   #15
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Is that what you are saying? I guess I don't see why you would ever need to put the switch in "Store" mode if that were the case.
The only reason would be to reduce as much 12v parasitic load as possible so that the battery is not being depleted by say something like a light or fan left on.

Let me say, I'm not advocating one method versus another only stating that's the way it works when the converter/charger is wired between the battery bank and disconnect switch. Obviously, there's no pat answer to the question the OP was asking. The correct answer is, "It depends on how your converter/charger is wired."

I think the lesson from this discussion is regardless of what the manual or dealer tells you every AS owner owes it to himself to personally check to see if their converter/charger is wired before or after the disconnect switch. By knowing which it is, the owner can know for certain the implications for the switch being on "Store" or on "Use" with the goal being to keep the batteries as fully charged as possible and as frequently as possible.
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Old 08-29-2017, 02:51 PM   #16
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OK, I try not to repeat questions that have been covered on the forum previously, but after reading many of the posts, I'm still confused about the "Use/Store" switch on my 2016 Flying Cloud. I know it has a single stage charger which can be hard on battery life, so when I have it parked at the house it is connected to shore power. I keep the switch in the store position and place a trickle charger on the batteries.

My assumption from previous posts is that the store position eliminates the single stage charger to the battery. I know it serves to keep parasitic voltages from draining the battery, but am unclear as to whether i need to physically remove the positive terminal from the battery or if the store switch essentially does that for me.
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Old 08-29-2017, 03:03 PM   #17
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Unfortunately, some Airstream trailers (mine included) have a propane leak detector that is wired straight to the batteries, bypassing the installed use/store switch relay. That and the sub-woofer could possibly cause a fairly stout parasitic load. That little quirk, befor I got smarter, killed a nice set of batteries in a year...

My rig is now (DIY) wired so that the solar panel charge controller is tied direct to the batteries, so my use/store switch does not cut off the charging I get from the sun. This allows me to keep my batteries well-charged all the time, and keeps the solar charger from lighting the red power LED on the use/store switch even if the batteries are in 'store'. That eliminated some confusion on my part (grin).

Now, if the red LED is lighted, either I am actually running on batteries, or my convertor is powering the 12v bus from shore power. In either case, the batteries are always maintained by solar power...
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Old 01-23-2018, 11:30 AM   #18
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Light on Battery Disconnect Switch

Related question: I have a Battery Disconnect Switch in my 2105 30 Flying Could. It has a red light on it that stays on all the time. Should the light go off when the switch is in the off position? Does it make any difference that it is plugged in to power source?
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Old 01-23-2018, 02:32 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by Wayne&Sam View Post
In "Store" the LP detector is still running on the batteries, but that should be the only load.
The LP detector, the CO detector, the radio memory, the TV antenna booster (if on) and the subwoofer if you have one. Over the course of a couple months it will drain the batteries.
My plan is to install a battery disconnect at the battery box, then leave the wiring harness for a NoCoGenius 3500 inside the battery box. When stored, go to "store", switch the disconnect to "off" and plug in the trickle charger.

In theory, I should be able to plug into shore power with the battery disconnect "off", but the "Use/Store" switch in "use" and have all internal power except the inverter.

It's hard to remember that the converter is feeding power INTO the battery, while the inverter is taking it out.

The converter changes 120 v AC into 12 v. DC while the inverter changes 12 v. DC into 120 v. AC.
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Old 01-23-2018, 03:02 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by GallivanGM View Post
Related question: I have a Battery Disconnect Switch in my 2105 30 Flying Could. It has a red light on it that stays on all the time. Should the light go off when the switch is in the off position? Does it make any difference that it is plugged in to power source?
The light on the use/store switch panel just tells you that there is 12 volt power available in the coach. It is unable to tell you if it is battery or shore power.

If your trailer is plugged in to shore power, the light will be on. If the trailer is NOT plugged into shore power, and the use/store relay is in 'store' the light should go off..

The only way to be sure the batteries are turned off is to press the 'store' side of the switch, and hear a 'clunk' from the relay. That means the relay has switched to 'store'.

No 'clunk', no idea what might be going on...the relay is mechanical, and does not control the red light at all...
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Old 01-23-2018, 05:18 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by Mollysdad View Post
The LP detector, the CO detector, the radio memory, the TV antenna booster (if on) and the subwoofer if you have one. Over the course of a couple months it will drain the batteries.
My plan is to install a battery disconnect at the battery box, then leave the wiring harness for a NoCoGenius 3500 inside the battery box. When stored, go to "store", switch the disconnect to "off" and plug in the trickle charger.

In theory, I should be able to plug into shore power with the battery disconnect "off", but the "Use/Store" switch in "use" and have all internal power except the inverter.

It's hard to remember that the converter is feeding power INTO the battery, while the inverter is taking it out.

The converter changes 120 v AC into 12 v. DC while the inverter changes 12 v. DC into 120 v. AC.
The inverter is also a parasitic draw as it is usually wired directly to the battery. It will draw current whether it is in the off or on position.

My experience is that if you don't install a disconnect switch at the batteries, your batteries will fall below 12.2V well within 2 weeks.
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