Baraldi Stove Vent Fan Problems

[KJRitchie]

Wow, I was considering swapping out my clunky looking but reliable Ventline for the Baraldi. Guess I'll reconsider.

Kelvin

[Wayne&Sam]

We've never had that problem in our '12.

[kpayne]

Just replaced the original halogen bulbs on my Baraldi with LEDs from the Airstream Store. They emit much less heat and produce good light. Maybe this will help cut down on the excessive heat around the hood.

[J-Dog]

Originally Posted by kpayne

...Just replaced the original halogen bulbs on my Baraldi with LEDs from the Airstream Store...

You wouldn't happen to remember the part number by chance?

Our fan shut down yesterday using only two burners...once things cooled, we were back in business.
I would like to switch the lights to LED's first and if that doesn't help us, I will find the overheat switch and by-pass it.

[futzman]

Same problem here with our brand new 2018 Flying Cloud. Exhaust fan shuts off after a few minutes. Smoke alarm has gone off twice as a result. Removed the smoke alarm battery. Very annoying problem as I cook quite a bit when we are camping.

[Ruscal]

It seems like the temp safety switch should shut the stove off, not the fan. The fan helps to remove heat, not create it. The small electric motor creates so little heat on its own as not to be a problem. I'll remove the useless safety switch and keep that hot air flowin out.
Russ

[Too tall]

FWIIW 2017 FC FB

Fan stopped working and was howling loudly than only made a humming sound. My dealership has promised the part for sometime, in the meantime I diassembled the fan to see what the cause is. The plastic squirrel cage is pressed onto a small diameter shaft (fan motor). The squirrel cage is held onto that shaft with a ring clip built into the fan cage itself...you can not see it. This clip/detente mates with the end of the shaft were a groove is machined.

The "issue" is that the fan was never seated properly or it managed to wiggle off the detente. I've reseated it (firmly) and is working same as it did when Patrick showed us the trailer.

I'm not confident this will remain secure, it is a fragile setup. The "fix" if this comes apart again will be to simply put a dab of JB weld on the shaft and call it a day.

It is what it is, I'm ok with that.

PS - does anyone have a link to spare parts for this?

[rmkrum]

Originally Posted by Ruscal

It seems like the temp safety switch should shut the stove off, not the fan. The fan helps to remove heat, not create it. The small electric motor creates so little heat on its own as not to be a problem. I'll remove the useless safety switch and keep that hot air flowing out.
Russ

The general reason the over-temperature switch is there is to shut off the fan to remove a source of draft in case of a fire...on a typical home or restaurant ducted hood, keeping the fan running during a nice grease fire is an easy way to ignite the grease in the ductwork and get a very stubborn fire started... Been there, done that, put it out with a fine spray of water...Navy firefighting training saved the day again...

And yes, it would make a heck of a lot more sense to shut off the stove as well, but obviously the current sensor is a bit too sensitive for normal use...

[LostCowboy]

Originally Posted by Too tall

FWIIW 2017 FC FB

Fan stopped working and was howling loudly than only made a humming sound. My dealership has promised the part for sometime, in the meantime I diassembled the fan to see what the cause is. The plastic squirrel cage is pressed onto a small diameter shaft (fan motor). The squirrel cage is held onto that shaft with a ring clip built into the fan cage itself...you can not see it. This clip/detente mates with the end of the shaft were a groove is machined.

The "issue" is that the fan was never seated properly or it managed to wiggle off the detente. I've reseated it (firmly) and is working same as it did when Patrick showed us the trailer.

I'm not confident this will remain secure, it is a fragile setup. The "fix" if this comes apart again will be to simply put a dab of JB weld on the shaft and call it a day.

It is what it is, I'm ok with that.

PS - does anyone have a link to spare parts for this?

My fan now only makes the “ hum” sound... I’ll give this a try with a little JB Weld too...

2017 Intl 27FB

[Meriwether]

I don't know if I'm posting this in the correct place, but here it goes;

2017 International 23' CB with a Baraldi range hood.
We experienced no problems the first three or four trips with the range hood. However, recently we've been having issues with the Thermal Cutout in our range hood.

Our routine is pretty consistent, with the outside hood vent open and a window open, in the morning, put a pot of coffee on the stove. This is the typical 9 cup percolator camp stove style coffee pot. After about 10 minutes or so, only running one burner, the fan turns off. Initially I thought it was a fuse. After further investigation we realized that there is a Thermal Cutout Protector in the fan circuit. After things cool down the fan will come back on.

I've notice other AS owners who have reported similar problems.

Today I removed the fan assembly from the hood so that I could find out what type of Thermal Cutout was used and what the specs were. The Thermal Cutout is located right under the fan motor and is a Klixon 2mm T80. According to the specs, this cutout will open the circuit (turn off power to the fan) at 110 degrees celsius / 230 Fahrenheit.

Figuring that water boils at 100 degrees celsius is this a realistic parameter?

The easy fix is just to remove the Thermal Cutout from the circuit, and based on what I've read, some dealerships have done this to remedy the problem.

The other issue is that, according to the Baraldi installation instructions, this hood should be located a minimum of 30" above the cooking surface, which it is not.

So it is bit of a conundrum. I hate to remove this safety feature and am considering replacing it with a Klixon 2mm T85 which has a slightly higher opening temp.

Thoughts, suggestions, is anyone else experiencing this issue?
Thanks,
Keith

[J-Dog]

Originally Posted by Meriwether

I don't know if I'm posting this in the correct place, but here it goes;



2017 International 23' CB with a Baraldi range hood.

We experienced no problems the first three or four trips with the range hood. However, recently we've been having issues with the Thermal Cutout in our range hood.



Our routine is pretty consistent, with the outside hood vent open and a window open, in the morning, put a pot of coffee on the stove. This is the typical 9 cup percolator camp stove style coffee pot. After about 10 minutes or so, only running one burner, the fan turns off. Initially I thought it was a fuse. After further investigation we realized that there is a Thermal Cutout Protector in the fan circuit. After things cool down the fan will come back on.



I've notice other AS owners who have reported similar problems.



Today I removed the fan assembly from the hood so that I could find out what type of Thermal Cutout was used and what the specs were. The Thermal Cutout is located right under the fan motor and is a Klixon 2mm T80. According to the specs, this cutout will open the circuit (turn off power to the fan) at 110 degrees celsius / 230 Fahrenheit.



Figuring that water boils at 100 degrees celsius is this a realistic parameter?



The easy fix is just to remove the Thermal Cutout from the circuit, and based on what I've read, some dealerships have done this to remedy the problem.



The other issue is that, according to the Baraldi installation instructions, this hood should be located a minimum of 30" above the cooking surface, which it is not.



So it is bit of a conundrum. I hate to remove this safety feature and am considering replacing it with a Klixon 2mm T85 which has a slightly higher opening temp.



Thoughts, suggestions, is anyone else experiencing this issue?

Thanks,

Keith

Where were you able to purchase the higher temp switch? I was able to locate a spec sheet and was thinking about buying the T90 (rated 10 degrees higher than the T80).

[Meriwether]

Originally Posted by J-Dog

Where were you able to purchase the higher temp switch? I was able to locate a spec sheet and was thinking about buying the T90 (rated 10 degrees higher than the T80).

I found the Klixon Thermal Cutoffs through:

Arrowhead Electric Company
www.carbonbrush.com
562-921-8521

It appears their website is still active.

The next higher cutout that they listed at the time (Sept. 2018):
Klixon protector/cutout
Part Number: 2MMT90-42

The price at that time was $13.75

I purchased both a new T80 and a T90. I replaced the original cutout with a new T80 and had the same problem as before.
At that point I gave up and removed and bypassed the cutout altogether.

I totally understand the need for a cutout in residential applications.

My co-workers wife had a grease fire on their stove and the range hood fan sucked the flames up into the vent. They had enough of a grease build up in the vent ducting, which was routed through their attic, that the fire went right into the attic and nearly burned their house down. Had the fan been shut off, via a thermal cutout, it may not have pulled the fire into the hood and the fire possibly could have been contained. Maybe.

In our application, since the fan motor and lights are already fused, and the Baraldi Hood vents immediately to the outside of the trailer, I personally don't see a need for a thermal cutout.

That may not be the case for everyone, but keep in mind that Baraldi builds these Hoods for a number of different applications.

I worked in aerospace and we had to design everything to the lowest common denominator - meaning safety first.

I would say the most important thing to do is to keep the filter in the hood clean and avoid allowing grease to build up in the hood.

Just my 2 cents. Best wishes.

[J-Dog]

Thank you for the reply, and the feedback. I have something to think about now. Perhaps bypassing the overheat switch may be the best overall answer for my needs at this point.
Have a good weekend.

[jeff4506]

Mine sounded like it was working but looked outside and saw it was not blowing hard enough to even open the vent flap which was unlatched. Took it down today and found that the harness to the fan motor was REVERSED on the fan side! Black going to white, white to black. Pulled the wires out of the plastic harness and reversed them. MUCH more quiet and exhausts very well.

[kittmaster]

Originally Posted by Meriwether

I found the Klixon Thermal Cutoffs through:

Arrowhead Electric Company
www.carbonbrush.com
562-921-8521

It appears their website is still active.

The next higher cutout that they listed at the time (Sept. 2018):
Klixon protector/cutout
Part Number: 2MMT90-42

The price at that time was $13.75

I purchased both a new T80 and a T90. I replaced the original cutout with a new T80 and had the same problem as before.
At that point I gave up and removed and bypassed the cutout altogether.

I totally understand the need for a cutout in residential applications.

My co-workers wife had a grease fire on their stove and the range hood fan sucked the flames up into the vent. They had enough of a grease build up in the vent ducting, which was routed through their attic, that the fire went right into the attic and nearly burned their house down. Had the fan been shut off, via a thermal cutout, it may not have pulled the fire into the hood and the fire possibly could have been contained. Maybe.

In our application, since the fan motor and lights are already fused, and the Baraldi Hood vents immediately to the outside of the trailer, I personally don't see a need for a thermal cutout.

That may not be the case for everyone, but keep in mind that Baraldi builds these Hoods for a number of different applications.

I worked in aerospace and we had to design everything to the lowest common denominator - meaning safety first.

I would say the most important thing to do is to keep the filter in the hood clean and avoid allowing grease to build up in the hood.

Just my 2 cents. Best wishes.

I'm resurrecting this as we are having the same issue. I was going to bypass it also but in looking at the Sensata datasheet they have a LOT higher values to choose from.

If you pulled an 80 from the stock unit, tried a 90 well you've barely scratched the upper limits.

They offer the same body styles from 70C to 160C in 5K increments.

I think I'm going to try and find the point it "craps out" with my thermal gun.....I'll put the french toast pan on the burners....fire up the two/three burners.....and run the fan until it pops......then measure the "air up there". It may just be a matter of finding the value it averages at and then add some additional padding to still have the safety aspect with just a higher temp threshold. If it exceeds 160, well then.....may have to find a higher cutout switch.....but man that is hot!

Clearly bypassing it is the answer, but I think having the best of both worlds is more important......IMO.

I'll report back what I find and direction I'm going in.

[Daquenzer]

Have you found the right size shut off thermostat for this. Having the same issue.

[kittmaster]

Originally Posted by Daquenzer

Have you found the right size shut off thermostat for this. Having the same issue.

We ended up not cooking last weekend, so we are planning to figure this out this weekend.

We are out every weekend for the rest of this month, so I will have it soon as this really annoys me.

I'll post up as soon as I figure out the right value and pass it on.

[kittmaster]

So an interesting revelation occurred this morning while out....This morning DW decided to make oatmeal (YUCK!) and only used the front burner, so for grins I did some basic temp testing to see what 1 burner temps would provide.

We from the image below, you'll see that just cooking on front burner that the temp approached near ~45 to 46C. Normally I'd translate to degrees F but since the sensor is measured and sold in degrees C, it makes sense to keep the units the same for clarity of those who aren't engineering minded.

The temperature "target" is around the center where the fan draft occurs and an inch either way can shift the reading 1 to 2 degrees C.

I haven't seen what is installed in my unit, I can only assume a T80 which would be 80 degrees C cutoff.....

Well all of a sudden, the fan cut off....and I jumped up and measured around 50C.....um....that is a long way off from 80C, but then again, that doesn't account for motor heat while spinning, or the thermals on the structure that holds the fan assembly.....so it may really be 80C where the probe is settled in.

As it was thermally cutoff, I left the switch in the on position.....fan would not turn back on even after the probe showed 25C (near room temp), meaning the hysteresis curve is very large and time dependent based on the dissimilar metals used to create the cutoff.

As of 20 minutes later and stove off, it came back on.

Next weekend is the full stove use for french toast and all burners, so I'll have a better handle on the actual temps up there.....but I am quickly understanding why AS is just jumping it out and when it fails; it fails > replace.....but that can't be a good long term strategy for longevity of the unit itself.

More to come as I gather more temp info and dismantle my unit this week to see what's inside.

[kittmaster]

We had it happen again, this time the temp was around 42C.

This weekend is our last outing before the winter goodnight, from there I'll be dismantling the stove fan and looking to solve the issue.

How did they not test this before choosing this fan assembly and temp value.

[kittmaster]

Last weekend was our last outing, so I will be looking at this in the next few weeks to get some resolution.