Awning lights for a 27FB Flying Cloud.

[cory_can]

Originally Posted by Van1

No, I disconnect when traveling. I placed the end of the lights that hooks into the transformer at the end where the door is located. That way I can stand on the door step and plug in, or unplug, easily.

Sorry, should have been more clear....after reading I can see how it would misunderstood.

It should have read...

Is the light rope attached with 3M tape just below the awning on the trailer body?

[Van1]

Ahh....no, the lights are placed on the underside of the metal awning cover with 3m tape. Not on the trailer.

[tsunami]

Looking at putting the LED lights on the inside of the recessed aluminum awning cover to keep them safe from the weather and make for easy, safe storage. Like what you have done. Thanks for posting the photos.

[AWCHIEF]

Temporary attached with good old duct tape.

[Arcticfox]

Originally Posted by Van1

Here are the photos of the lights I just installed. These particular lights come with a remote that can turn them off or on, can dim or brighten them.Attachment 220823Attachment 220824Attachment 220825Attachment 220826

This install looks very good! Just for clarity would it be possible to post an up close (macro) image of how and where you actually install the light strip

Is this the lights your using?
LED Light Kits

Thanks

Doug

[Van1]

Yes, that's the lights I'm using. I will attempt to take a really up close pic and post it.

[Van1]

Originally Posted by Arcticfox

This install looks very good! Just for clarity would it be possible to post an up close (macro) image of how and where you actually install the light strip



Is this the lights your using?

LED Light Kits



Thanks



Doug

Doug,

Here are the close us. As you can see, there are 4 channels on the aluminum awning cover. I installed mine in the channel closest to the side of the trailer. Although where I placed them is o.k. I think installing them in the channel furthest from the side of the trailer would be even better. I plan on moving mine to that location when I get an opportunity.

[Arcticfox]

Originally Posted by Van1

Doug,

Here are the close us. As you can see, there are 4 channels on the aluminum awning cover. I installed mine in the channel closest to the side of the trailer. Although where I placed them is o.k. I think installing them in the channel furthest from the side of the trailer would be even better. I plan on moving mine to that location when I get an opportunityAttachment 220876.

This is excellent - Now I can see how you installed it. Do you think be moving the install to the furthest away channel that you risk having the lights hurt in anyway when closing/opening the awning? Not that I know one way or the other - just thought I would ask.

As a final comment, its to bad one could not create some type of plug system that would allow you to hardwire the lights into the trailer in someway. It would just clean things up a little....

Cheers
Doug

[Van1]

Originally Posted by Arcticfox

This is excellent - Now I can see how you installed it. Do you think be moving the install to the furthest away channel that you risk having the lights hurt in anyway when closing/opening the awning? Not that I know one way or the other - just thought I would ask.



As a final comment, its to bad one could not create some type of plug system that would allow you to hardwire the lights into the trailer in someway. It would just clean things up a little....



Cheers

Doug

Doug,

No, moving them to the channel furthest from the side of the trailer I am confident will be fine. When I placed the lights in the channel closest to the trailer I didn't take into account that the lights would be more on top of the trailer than the side. What that did was keep some of the light from shinning underneath the awning. I'm not sure aim explaining myself clearly. Anyhow I really believe that it would be much better further from the trailer in the first channel.

A lot of the new trailer manufacturers have began installing these same lights permanently to their awnings with an interior switch to turn them in and off. My limited mechanical ability prevents me from even attempting such a thing. Why I agree it would be cleaner and more convenient I will have to live with them this way.

[TouringDan]

I don't see a need for a transformer. Just run them off the 12v battery(s). Since they are LED, the power consumption will be minimal.

Dan

[Van1]

Yes I agree with Dan. My concern would be routing the wiring to the battery. I don't want to drill any holes if I could avoid it and I would want it to be clean and neat.

[A W Warn]

Originally Posted by TouringDan

I don't see a need for a transformer. Just run them off the 12v battery(s). Since they are LED, the power consumption will be minimal.

Dan

Dan,

Do you have a strip light similar to this, in your store, that I can look at to see how the dimmer works? I'm not familiar with this type of lighting.

Could you create a 12v "drop cord" that one end would serve the strip light and the other would receive the trailer's umbilical, using the house battery to power the strip of LED awning lights? Could have an inline switch if someone wanted one, but could just be unplugged as needed.
Thanks!

[Arcticfox]

Originally Posted by A W Warn

Dan,

Do you have a strip light similar to this, in your store, that I can look at to see how the dimmer works? I'm not familiar with this type of lighting.

Could you create a 12v "drop cord" that one end would serve the strip light and the other would receive the trailer's umbilical, using the house battery to power the strip of LED awning lights? Could have an inline switch if someone wanted one, but could just be unplugged as needed.
Thanks!

This is getting really interesting....

[AWCHIEF]

I was thinking of taping into the 12 volt at the water heater if that is possible.

[tsunami]

Was thinking about tapping into the 12v at the light switches on the right of the entry door as you go into the AS (for those of us with 23 footers), installing a switch, and pull a wire up close to the front end of the awning and put a waterproof connector on the outside. Would be a very small inconspiciopus opening for the wire to exit to the outside. Want to look at this very close before doing anything. How about a coiled power cord that would roll in/out with the awning? All sorts of possibilities!

[TouringDan]

Originally Posted by A W Warn

Dan,

Do you have a strip light similar to this, in your store, that I can look at to see how the dimmer works? I'm not familiar with this type of lighting.

Could you create a 12v "drop cord" that one end would serve the strip light and the other would receive the trailer's umbilical, using the house battery to power the strip of LED awning lights? Could have an inline switch if someone wanted one, but could just be unplugged as needed.
Thanks!

Alan

I think this is possible. One possibility is to pull 12v power from the fridge, run the line up the fridge vent, and then a short run on the exterior to the 12v led light strip under the awning rail. I think this might work for my Tradewind. I can see where it could be made either permanant or removable.

Lots of options.

Dan

[Van1]

Originally Posted by Van1

Doug,

Here are the close us. As you can see, there are 4 channels on the aluminum awning cover. I installed mine in the channel closest to the side of the trailer. Although where I placed them is o.k. I think installing them in the channel furthest from the side of the trailer would be even better. I plan on moving mine to that location when I get an opportunityAttachment 220876.

As I previously stated I had installed my LED lights in one of the channels of the aluminum awning cover. The channel I placed them in was the channel closest to the roof.

Once it became dark I realized that the lights would have been better placed in the channel furthest from the roof and side of the trailer.

I removed the lights and re-installed them in the channel furthest from the trailer. That did the trick. Now I am satisfied.

[extiger]

"Could you create a 12v "drop cord" that one end would serve the strip light and the other would receive the trailer's umbilical, using the house battery to power the strip of LED awning lights? Could have an inline switch if someone wanted one, but could just be unplugged as needed."

I built something similar that could be modified to work with LED awning strips. I used a plastic electric outside box as a start. The box has a plug for the umbilical (think TV side), a light for my flag, a switch for the marker lights and a 12V plug that I use for the Sat dish. The flag light has a 12V remote control so I can turn it on/off remotely. Since I don't use the marker lights very often, there is just an outdoor 12V switch for it. Power comes from the umbilical.

For LED awning lights you could include a plug on the box so you plug the LED wire into a plug on the box when setting up. The plug could be controlled by a 12V remote control.

All parts for my "magic box" came from HD or Amazon. I used Amazon mostly for the 12V parts.

[FollySteve]

I'm resurrectingbath is old thread to show everyone a solution that I used to hardware the new style ultra thin LED strip lights as an outdoor, under awning light. We have a 2015 International 23D and while we love the trailer, we have never been satisfied with the single, glaring, above the door porch light that comes standard on this model.

We loved the dimable, gentle glow of the LED strip lights referred to earlier in this thread, but never liked the idea of having to hook up an outdoor extension cord (complete) with bulky transformer each time that we wanted to use them. On the other hand, after researching the topic extensively, I never found a simple and elegant route to the hard wired 12 volt power sources available inside. As most of you probably know, the biggest problem is fishing the wire to the 12 volt source, especially if it is one the opposite side of one or more of the ribs that connect the inside and outside skin. Probing to find a path is a long shot at best, and the idea of removing a inner skin panel to route the wire seemed to destructive in the extreme.

Finally, I decided to take the plunge and order the light kit. One way or another, I was determined to make it work. Here's the kit that I ordered from Amazon.


Diamond Group 52686-RF White 16' LED Strip Light with RF Remote https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00SQ29BJA..._1x2KvbZR75CZ7
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00SQ29BJA..._1x2KvbZR75CZ7



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[FollySteve]

I'm resurrecting this old thread to show everyone a solution that I used to hardware the new style ultra thin LED strip lights as an outdoor, under awning light. We have a 2015 International 23D and while we love the trailer, we have never been satisfied with the single, glaring, above the door porch light that comes standard on this model.

We loved the dimable, gentle glow of the LED strip lights referred to earlier in this thread, but never liked the idea of having to hook up an outdoor extension cord (complete with bulky transformer) each time that we wanted to use them. On the other hand, after researching the topic extensively, I never found a simple and elegant route to the hard wired 12 volt power sources available inside. As most of you probably know, the biggest problem is fishing the wire to the 12 volt source, especially if it is on the opposite side of one or more of the ribs that connect the inside and outside skin. Probing to find a path is a long shot at best, and the idea of removing a inner skin panel to route the wire seemed too destructive in the extreme.

Finally, I decided to take the plunge and order the light kit. One way or another, I was determined to make it work. Here's the kit that I ordered from Amazon.

Diamond Group 52686-RF White 16' LED Strip Light with RF Remote https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00SQ29BJA..._1x2KvbZR75CZ7
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00SQ29BJA..._1x2KvbZR75CZ7

This kit provides basic white light with a simple on/off/dim key fob controller.

For placement, we decided that we wanted the strip a few inches beneath the awning roller so that it would bounce up off of the awning when it is deployed but could also be used without the awning. Attachment was straightforward with peel and stick adhesive. I will only add that I used care to have the surface absolutely clean and used a masking tape alignment strip to ensure straight and correct placement. The plug end faces forward and is just behind and beneath the forward awning arm (see photo). The plug was permanently secured in place with shrink tubing and a small dab of adhesive caulk to hold it firmly to the trailer side. The supplied wire is plenty long and the other end terminates with a similar plug (for connection to transformer, which was not used) that I cut off.

Inside the trailer, and inside the front wall overhead bin, I removed 3 screws that hold the DVD player box and slid it to the other side of the cabinet. The internal wire bundle is plenty long. The only attached wire is to the USB charging port, the others will slide out of the wire opening.

Once the DVD box was out of the way, I removed 3 more screws that hold the interior side panel in place. This side panel can be careful pulled out and laid down out of the way. To do this, I had to trim about 3/4" off of the upper sliding door track to eliminate binding. I did this carefully with a hacksaw blade while holding it tightly in place with my other hand ( it is attached with cabinet staples which can easily be pulled out if not careful). Once this is done you can reach your finger into the wire hole and pull the back side of the panel out until it comes free. I left the 110 wiring to the mounted receptacle attached: there was plenty of cable length to allow the removed panel to be laid flat ( see photo).

Once inside, I was happy to see that a big section of the interior skin was left off to allow easy wiring access. This made internal access to the new LED feed wire easy.

Back on the outside, I fed the cut end of the LED feed wire through a tight fitting rubber grommet and drilled a single properly sized hole through the exterior skin just forward of the vertical rib located just forward of the door. I passed the wire through the hole and secured the grommet. With all of the slack removed, I have about 4 inches of the wire exposed (see photo). It is secured by the plug/shrink tube on one end and the grommet on the other. The grommet is quite secure and should be weatherproof on its own but, as extra insurance, I worked some additional caulk around the wire opening and beneath the outer flanges.

Back inside, I mounted the dimmer control to the underside of the DVD box and fed the power from the USB feed wire referenced earlier. Once everything was back in place there was no indication that it had ever been touched. Pretty simple and went pretty quick once I had everything figured out. Also, I found out the hard way that Amazon has extra dimmer controllers by accidentally touching the two 12 volt feed wires resulting in damage to the dimmer controller.

Lighting EVER RF Dimmer of LED Strips, LED Ribbon, LED Lights, Wireless Control https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004X4O1NG..._mh3KvbEMBWWXH
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004X4O1NG..._mh3KvbEMBWWXH





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