20-footers

[CruizinDux]

Originally Posted by subfan1

Thanks, for some reason I couldn't see the pictures you posted last night. I see them now however.

Subfan1, no problem...I was having trouble with the posting so you're right. I think I had to go back and add them??? can't remember how I solved it.. it was late.

I also have other pics if you need clarification. just let me know.

bob

[CruizinDux]

[QUOTE=OTRA15;1774468]Thanks for the new photos Bob. Glad the new fan is better. Do you have any sense of what someone else said on that other thread: is this exterior fridge space a closed one?

In other words, if we propped the top exterior door all the way up (and thus lost the screening to keep insects out), would they be confined to the small space around the fins and other fridge mechanicals? In my old 25' AS trailer (~1985), I seem to recall that the insects could have gotten into the insulation in the exterior wall. Thus keeping the fridge ventilation doors closed made sense. With awning out at a campground, maybe opening the top door is part of the solution to minimizing "fan on" status . . .

{ I'll try the door open on our trip, but will have to see how the canvas comes into lay I think it was Doug's picture but his seem to be wide open spaces and our has to deal with the door covering thing when open and latched.}

Weird, the wiring going my fan is in one of those flex sleeves for protection, and looks like it takes a different route from your Post 688. I did not get around to posting a photo of it yesterday after the hiccup with the exposed plywood floor at the wheel well. It is as if the factory workers are given free reign to install things however they feel like it, with no master specs. to keep them on the straight and narrow . . .

Or did you have one of those plastic flex sleeves protecting your wiring harness to the fan, but had already removed it?

{ My #12 OEM dropped from above between the fans and the fins, the headed to the right all jammed into the flex sleeve. I removed the sleeve, untangled the mess, cut out and removed the old fan, reinstalled the fan, reconnected the wiring, then went to organize things. I put some ele tape on the plastic clamp to hold the screw in place, then attached two clamps to the 3/4 X along the top to keep it up and off the fins. Then I re- organized on the wall side, leaving some to coil at the fan and add the flex sleeve (now in two pieces to accommodate the clamp on the wall). The lower one has slipped down a bit so need to zip it.

Looks like our frost warning last night was the final one. Hoping to turn on the water next week. { Great news!!!}

Peter

PS -- Gorgeous park, reminds me of one we hiked into near Arcata CA way back when. Here is a hot link:

{ Maybe Fern Canyon? N of Trinidad If I remember correctly}
Bob

[CruizinDux]

Originally Posted by CruizinDux

Subfan1, yes, .... The last three are the new install to show how I attached the #12 wire above so it rest on the fins..


This is the thread that I followed with some great step by step instructions.

Bob

ooops...so it DOESN'T rest on the fins.

[OTRA15]

Looks to me like the upper fridge vent door could be open with the awning out, the only question would be how to hold it up -- velcro pads stuck in place maybe? Even with the main entry door latched open, fridge exhaust air flow would be increased a lot. Basically the location of the fridge is bad for exterior air circulation obviously. Make the most of a bad situation? The other downside is insects in the fridge space. Acceptable given the benefit of better air flow?

Even with a quieter fan, it blows right onto the open main door, a difficult situation in hot weather with no air circulation around the trailer.

The better design solution (more $$$) would have been to run an exhaust flue up to exit above the awning, like our old 25' and many other models have. The flue cap was streamlined so the fridge could be on dependably while on the road.

TBD

Standing in main entry door opening looking to the left over the top hinge:



From the rear of the trailer by the windows over the oven-to-fridge counter, looking forward at the open and latched main entry door:

[OTRA15]

Interesting Bob that your fan sits ON the black rubber edge protection over the aluminum RO cutout, whereas my rubber EP was just jammed behind the fan entirely. Will route mine similar to your bottom shot in Post 688. Guess I might as well stop whining about all the little inconsistencies in quality control too . . . distracting . . . apologies to all.

Yup Fern Canyon was the place -- mid 70's . . . thanks for the catch.

[CruizinDux]

Originally Posted by OTRA15

Interesting Bob that your fan sits ON the black rubber edge protection over the aluminum RO cutout, whereas my rubber EP was just jammed behind the fan entirely. Will route mine similar to your bottom shot in Post 688. Guess I might as well stop whining about all the little inconsistencies in quality control too . . . distracting . . . apologies to all.

Yup Fern Canyon was the place -- mid 70's . . . thanks for the catch.

Peter for sure. Some were obviously paying more attention than others (like in my LP drains under the WH) when working on the units. But you're right, QC is all over the map.

Here is my partial solution to air flow ; ) Same part # as with the rear window holder opener


As for Fern Canyon, I've been by on numerous occasions, so from my buddy who went to Humboldt State...a very trippy place to spend a day. I'm usually on the fast track to the wharf at Trinidad for fish and chips and a brewski.

Bob

p.s. Haven't forgotten Merle...

[CruizinDux]

Here is a better image of the clamp attachment holding the # 12 wiring up high above the fins

b

[subfan1]

Great subject guys since I've been thinking about how to keep the door partially opened to keep some air circulating. While dry camping I usually leave the upper vent door opened. In order to not mark up the side of the trailer I cut a short piece of clear vinyl tubing sliced it up the middle and attach it to the latch and remove it store it in the lower door wire harness. Now the entrance door. I read that the first 3 25 FB model trailers had the entrance door hinged opposite of how they are hinged now. Brian uploaded a picture of a latch that you could buy from Airstream and it kept the door partially opened. I thought it was a great solution to my problem. I can't seem to find the picture though. I'll try looking for it so I can post it here.

[CruizinDux]

Originally Posted by subfan1

Great subject guys since I've been thinking about how to keep the door partially opened to keep some air circulating. While dry camping I usually leave the upper vent door opened. In order to not mark up the side of the trailer I cut a short piece of clear vinyl tubing sliced it up the middle and attach it to the latch and remove it store it in the lower door wire harness. Now the entrance door. I read that the first 3 25 FB model trailers had the entrance door hinged opposite of how they are hinged now. Brian uploaded a picture of a latch that you could buy from Airstream and it kept the door partially opened. I thought it was a great solution to my problem. I can't seem to find the picture though. I'll try looking for it so I can post it here.

Thanks Subfan1. I like the vinyl tubing idea to protect the skin. I use the foam in the door hinge to keep open a bit more, but this option is subject to winds and it would be nice to be able open fan door all the way up and latch the door opened as designed. The AS door should keep all in place. I'm thinking that even with the door latched open and the resulting limited flow with the fan door up all the way, it all should still contribute to cooling effeciency.

Bob

[CruizinDux]

Originally Posted by subfan1

Great subject guys since I've been thinking about how to keep the door partially opened to keep some air circulating. While dry camping I usually leave the upper vent door opened. In order to not mark up the side of the trailer I cut a short piece of clear vinyl tubing sliced it up the middle and attach it to the latch and remove it store it in the lower door wire harness. Now the entrance door. I read that the first 3 25 FB model trailers had the entrance door hinged opposite of how they are hinged now. Brian uploaded a picture of a latch that you could buy from Airstream and it kept the door partially opened. I thought it was a great solution to my problem. I can't seem to find the picture though. I'll try looking for it so I can post it here.

Thanks Subfan1. I like the vinyl tubing idea to protect the skin. I use the foam in the door hinge to keep open a bit more, but this option is subject to winds and it would be nice to be able open fan door all the way up and latch the door opened as designed. The AS door should keep all in place. I'm thinking that even with the door latched open and the resulting limited flow with the fan door up all the way, it all should still contribute to cooling efficiency.

Bob

[OTRA15]

Sounds good Bob.

Update on the wheel well gaps showing plywood sub-floor -- yup, same deal in four spots -- interior face of wheel well on top of frame -- front and back corners on both curb and street sides -- some worse than others.



Will use WEST epoxy to seal the plywood as best as I can working upside down against gravity. Apply epoxy liberally and immediately cover with duct tape as tight as possible. Let harden.

Remove duct tape, mask off 4 small areas to be sprayed with can of spray bed liner (just got it at the auto parts store), and consider taking trailer to shop for entire wheel well to get bed liner, including the gaps between the wheel well sheet metal and the trailer's frame, as identified by subfan1 (which I also have here and there, inconsistently you will be surprised to know . . . sorry . . . can't help myself . . . )

Never a dull moment -- tomorrow summerize?

Cheers,

Peter

[subfan1]

Peter would it be better to use blue painters tape rather than duck tape? I know the painters tape won't stick to almost anything.

[OTRA15]

The blue tape tears too easily. I want to tug on the tape to get it as tight to the recessed opening as possible. Duct tape is good for this plus will stick to sheet metal and frame easily. Once the epoxy hardens, a little tape residue won't defeat the adhesion of the bed liner, I think . . . hope . . .

[subfan1]

Good luck. If you could take pictures of the wheel well post spray, I'd appreciate it. I think I'm doing this too.
Thx

[OTRA15]

Will do, however the areas of spray will be limited because I don't want to have to take the tires off right now, as would have to be done if a shop sprays bed liner inside the entire wheel well. Just want to eliminate plywood edge grain being exposed to road water.

[subfan1]

Oh OK, I was thinking of removing the tires when I do ours. Maybe I'll take the pictures. If anyone is interested?

[OTRA15]

Makes sense to do the entire wheel well, especially given that the interior of the trailer should be quieter going down the road!

[ What is the sound a quieter Flying Cloud makes when there is no one inside to hear the difference? ]

[CruizinDux]

Holy Moly, Not looking for more work but this is an open door got more extensive work. I think I'll swing by for an eval and will bring the camera.

Time to be proactive.

Bob

[OTRA15]

Of course, Bob, I guess one could leave the duct tape in place, eh, and end up with
.
.
.
CruizinDuctsTape?



Let us know what you find on your unit . . .

[VinnyBoomer]

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