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Old 07-05-2016, 11:25 AM   #1093
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Hi Bob, no we are camping at Silver Lake in the June Lake loop.
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Old 07-05-2016, 02:51 PM   #1094
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Originally Posted by subfan1 View Post
Hi Bob, no we are camping at Silver Lake in the June Lake loop.
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Jose, that looks fab and looks like a good base camp. I just love the high Sierras. Since I was from the bay area, my knowledge base is mostly the west slope (backpacking), but after visiting friends in Bishop, have discovered how much that slope has to offer.

I'm keeping the loop and your other spot in mind when we hopefully visit the Bishop friend. It may not work as that will be mid-late October and I can't remember when they roll up the roads for the winter.


Thanks for the pic...great campsite...killer backdrop.

Not that you need it, but good luck with your fishing.

Bob
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Old 07-06-2016, 02:56 PM   #1095
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Originally Posted by CruizinDux View Post
Peter, can you post pics when done?

bob
Sure will do in a few days. We got into Hither Hills SP again from the wait list. Minimal cell reception and no WIFI, but oceanfront camping at its best!

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Old 07-08-2016, 09:09 PM   #1096
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Originally Posted by centennialman View Post
Has anyone mounted a small TV over the bed in the FC 20? There are outlets for cable etc... already there.

If so, any advice is appreciated on mounting options.

Thanks
I should have tried the 20-ftr's thread first. This is the only adding a 2nd TV in the bedroom thread that I could find. Note I find the search function challenging and endless.

Can't believe this is jumping ahead on the mods list. Glad I reinforced the cleats.....soooo, has anyone jumped in ...teagues, Centennialman..anyone else?

On our last trip I looked at the back of the one above the refer. Looks like a regular residential unit, but there is also some 12V connections...maybe for the BR? Can a regular big box store unit work?

Peter mentioned the bulkhead as a mounting option. Does anyone know if AS actually thought about it and added some backing inside the exterior wall?

I presume that with the 110V on the wall, there is some roughed in wiring? I've never pulled the cover off the box.


Any pics, specs, advice, comments are much appreciated.

Bob
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Old 07-09-2016, 04:11 AM   #1097
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Thanks Bob, my suggested mounting location was in Post 578 here back in March, just after Steve's questions you linked in the quote. I think that bulkhead between the front dinette seat and the bed is only a sheet of plywood -- 3/4" ? -- so the mount would have to be through-bolted IMO, which is OK IMO as I actually like visible cabinet hardware of a good quality and design.

Doubt if the exterior wall has any blocking etc. in it for a mount. The beauty of mounting on the bulkhead would be that by rotating the TV 180, you could also watch it from the dinette rear bench seat, or from the dinette bed if in that mode. With a couple of lawn chairs in the hall, you could have a Super Bowl party in the FC20!



This would allow removing the OEM TV and using that space above the fridge for more useful storage cabinets etc.. Yes a regular TV would work, and there are threads about this also, mainly for larger trailers.

There is also this thread with a similar discussion:

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f44/...er-150336.html


Regarding the Search function, I forget if I mentioned this before, but Post 9 in the following thread has some useful hints:

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f138...es-145169.html
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Old 07-09-2016, 06:51 AM   #1098
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Bob...just saw your post on the campground. It was full hook ups
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Old 07-09-2016, 07:03 AM   #1099
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Originally Posted by centennialman View Post
Bob...just saw your post on the campground. It was full hook ups
Steve any chance you could measure up that galley sink window for me this weekend?

Thanks,

Peter

PS -- I think the L/R outside dimension of the screen spline might be the easiest dimension. And maybe the clear L/R inside the back of the shower?
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Old 07-09-2016, 07:12 AM   #1100
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New windows for head and fridge counter?

Has anyone considered that a small operable window might fit where those two small fixed windows are at the fridge counter, and also in the head over the toilet? Our old 25' had these, and they really improved the cross-ventilation. If the structural framing members allow the swap, the related sheet metal work does not seem too crazy IMO.

Now that we have had a few successful short camping trips, and one's health is fairly stable [no small task recently!], the laundry list for other longer-range improvements could also include:

-- new or modified window/screen over galley sinks
-- street-side awning
-- rear awning
-- solar panels, batteries, converter
-- 16" wheels/tires

Curious whether some of the older Safari models here actually had the two windows I first asked about?

Thanks and have a good weekend.

Peter
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Old 07-09-2016, 10:39 AM   #1101
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Originally Posted by CruizinDux View Post
Peter, can you post pics when done?

bob
Here you go. I changed the plan a bit and eliminated the long bungee.

A disclaimer first -- I don't mind exposed hardware if the finish and design are good. Form follows function . . .

So the exposed stainless strap eyes may not appeal to some folks, but on their own they are preferable to exposed bases for white Velcro, and coachman's loops (if I understood that post correctly). The top eye near the sinks is also actually good for the corner of a thin hand/dish towel. Different strokes for different folks . . .

I need to get more blue bungees to match, so the next one will go between the others to keep the middle drawer in place. These bungees are not pulled particularly tight -- they are more for insurance purposes. They will not keep a drawer from opening in a crazy situation, but they will prevent it from opening very far, whereupon the road action will probably force the drawer closed again. The Velcro and coachman's loops/strapping will do a better job of locking the doors/drawers in place for sure. Not necessary IMO.

The one on the fridge is on a diagonal to the nearest coat hook, because it is too long to go horizontal to another strap eye inside the return wall of the coat hanging area, which I plan to do, so they are all horizontal. OCD maybe . . . OK . . .

The bungee on the exterior door is an experiment until I can fabricate that wooden "keeper" from another thread, to keep our "suicide door" closed on the road. Our deadbolt seems very secure, which the old ones were not IMO, so this potential door opening problem is quite theoretical I grant you. Again, belt and suspenders . . .

The peace of mind brought on by the bungee solutions is reassuring on the road -- the one time that bottom drawer under the oven pulled out and delaminated the plywood drawer was enough. Oh, I forgot to picture a small bungee from the closet door wire pull handle to the magazine rack in the corner by the bed, again set lightly.

Have a good weekend!

Peter
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Old 07-09-2016, 11:52 AM   #1102
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Originally Posted by centennialman View Post
Bob...just saw your post on the campground. It was full hook ups
Steve, awesome, thanks. I was thinking about a 2-3 day layover somewhat midway between Mo/AR/OK and OR and this looks like a great spot (JM Robb Colorado River SP) I mentioned this to my wife and she said...oh yes, the area with all the fruit trees & grapes. Just like home.

Thanks for the info.

Bob
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Old 07-09-2016, 11:57 AM   #1103
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Originally Posted by OTRA15 View Post
Thanks Bob, my suggested mounting location was in Post 578 here back in March, just after Steve's questions you linked in the quote. I think that bulkhead between the front dinette seat and the bed is only a sheet of plywood -- 3/4" ? -- so the mount would have to be through-bolted IMO, which is OK IMO as I actually like visible cabinet hardware of a good quality and design.

Doubt if the exterior wall has any blocking etc. in it for a mount. The beauty of mounting on the bulkhead would be that by rotating the TV 180, you could also watch it from the dinette rear bench seat, or from the dinette bed if in that mode. With a couple of lawn chairs in the hall, you could have a Super Bowl party in the FC20!



This would allow removing the OEM TV and using that space above the fridge for more useful storage cabinets etc.. Yes a regular TV would work, and there are threads about this also, mainly for larger trailers.

There is also this thread with a similar discussion:

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f44/...er-150336.html


Regarding the Search function, I forget if I mentioned this before, but Post 9 in the following thread has some useful hints:

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f138...es-145169.html
Peter, thanks for both the discussion link as well as the hints link. Much appreciated...my search skills do need improvement.

I also like the stagey for the super bowl party. I had thought about moving it vs adding one. I figured I'd gather my facts and decide. Makes good sense tho. Agreed on the backing...I'd by surprised if there was any substance behind the alu skin other than the std bulkhead.

Bob
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Old 07-09-2016, 12:08 PM   #1104
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OTRA15 View Post
Here you go. I changed the plan a bit and eliminated the long bungee.

A disclaimer first -- I don't mind exposed hardware if the finish and design are good. Form follows function . . .

So the exposed stainless strap eyes may not appeal to some folks, but on their own they are preferable to exposed bases for white Velcro, and coachman's loops (if I understood that post correctly). The top eye near the sinks is also actually good for the corner of a thin hand/dish towel. Different strokes for different folks . . .

I need to get more blue bungees to match, so the next one will go between the others to keep the middle drawer in place. These bungees are not pulled particularly tight -- they are more for insurance purposes. They will not keep a drawer from opening in a crazy situation, but they will prevent it from opening very far, whereupon the road action will probably force the drawer closed again. The Velcro and coachman's loops/strapping will do a better job of locking the doors/drawers in place for sure. Not necessary IMO.

The one on the fridge is on a diagonal to the nearest coat hook, because it is too long to go horizontal to another strap eye inside the return wall of the coat hanging area, which I plan to do, so they are all horizontal. OCD maybe . . . OK . . .

The bungee on the exterior door is an experiment until I can fabricate that wooden "keeper" from another thread, to keep our "suicide door" closed on the road. Our deadbolt seems very secure, which the old ones were not IMO, so this potential door opening problem is quite theoretical I grant you. Again, belt and suspenders . . .

The peace of mind brought on by the bungee solutions is reassuring on the road -- the one time that bottom drawer under the oven pulled out and delaminated the plywood drawer was enough. Oh, I forgot to picture a small bungee from the closet door wire pull handle to the magazine rack in the corner by the bed, again set lightly.

Have a good weekend!

Peter
Peter thanks. I like this and agree form follows function. The velco while a good solution, was not a viable visual for me. The eye hooks of a good quality is a reasonable accommodation.

Thanks for the pics and the design.

I had figured out a way to lock the glides by the refer and think I found a cabinet lock that would work for the P & P drawer, but that leaves the 3 drawers and maybe the refer. You system is a one stop solution.

Re the refer I tend to put the heaver stuff on the doors to sort of lock them in place and the lighter stuff inside. Like the P & P drawer, controlling the movement/momentum of contents I believe is key. So far all is good.

Have a good weekend.

Looking at a puppy today

Bob
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Old 07-11-2016, 05:55 AM   #1105
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New quieter AC?

Has anyone replaced our noisy air conditioner? A recent post on another thread got me thinking that it might be worth it, as part of a general window etc. upgrade cycle, to include the items mentioned earlier in Post 1100. If -- that is -- the sound savings are significant and a drop-in replacement is do-able.

Thanks,

Peter

PS -- Click on Arrow links in each quote to go to that thread:


Quote:
Originally Posted by OTRA15 View Post
Thanks for this information. Do you have the 13.5k or 15k BTU units, and were they an easy drop-in replacement? Ditto to Joe about the condensate drain issues.

I don't see any noise/sound decibel specs offhand in the mfg. literature, and am wondering if you can quantify the noise reductions you mention?

Thanks,

Peter


http://www.dometic.com/USA/New-Produ.../blizzard-nxt/

http://www.dometic.com/QBankFiles3/E...-Web_32008.pdf
Quote:
Originally Posted by NOAZRK2690 View Post
Although my AS is not ducted, after installing the new Dometic Blizzard NXT air conditioner and two months experience with using them (FR. & R.) I can report that there's no compressor noise inside the AS at all, only air flow through the newly designed interior ceiling air box. The H, M, L & Auto fan speeds work the same as the Penguin I & II. The units run so cold that my 34' cools with just one, either F or R, unit running in 95 degree direct sun on the roof. On the medium and low speeds, they make about the same amount of air noise as a Fantastic Fan set to low. On high speed fan, they are about the same noise level as the Fantastic Fan on high speed. I've got no idea when the auto fan kicks on and off during the day or night. On the low setting, during the day, the unit trolls along quietly enough that it offers no distraction. Very happy with them so far.
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Old 07-14-2016, 11:17 PM   #1106
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jpons, I didn't want to hijack the other thread


http://www.airforums.com/forums/f48/...01729-293.html post 4094

so thought I'd forward it here. Since the dupe at the TV is is 110, did you pull a new 12v circuit up & near the existing 110V via behind he refer?

also I assume there isn't a performance difference between 12v & 110V?

Bob
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