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Old 06-25-2016, 10:03 AM   #1051
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Thanks great idea. For instance FYI: Safari Strap kit

Plenty of different sizes, finishes etc..

The flat strap system is also good for attaching/bundling a variety of things, and I assume various "belt buckles" are available for this system.

Thanks again.

Peter
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Old 06-26-2016, 07:54 AM   #1052
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I use 2" wide strips of white velcro. The corresponding 2" x 2" soft patches on the drawers and 1"x2" on the small exposed area next to them are a small price to pay to keep them closed. The pantry is strapped to the drawer next to it in the middle. I use the "soft" part stuck on the drawers and hold down points and the "hard" part of the velcro folded over itself in the 6" lengths to stick on before we take off. Easy and reversible with no marks. The "soft" part does not stick to you if you drag across it.

When we get to the destination we just zip them off and throw them in a drawer. I can take pictures if anybody cares. 10 minutes and you fixed the problem.An that is if you are taking time to do it neat.
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Old 06-27-2016, 02:20 AM   #1053
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Do any of you have a screen for your kitchen escape exit window over the sink and a way to prop the window open?
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Old 06-27-2016, 03:54 AM   #1054
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Quote:
Originally Posted by renderit View Post
I use 2" wide strips of white velcro. The corresponding 2" x 2" soft patches on the drawers and 1"x2" on the small exposed area next to them are a small price to pay to keep them closed. The pantry is strapped to the drawer next to it in the middle. I use the "soft" part stuck on the drawers and hold down points and the "hard" part of the velcro folded over itself in the 6" lengths to stick on before we take off. Easy and reversible with no marks. The "soft" part does not stick to you if you drag across it.



When we get to the destination we just zip them off and throw them in a drawer. I can take pictures if anybody cares. 10 minutes and you fixed the problem.An that is if you are taking time to do it neat.
Please do post some photo! Thank you!
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Old 06-27-2016, 04:41 AM   #1055
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Originally Posted by MaineStreamer View Post
Do any of you have a screen for your kitchen escape exit window over the sink and a way to prop the window open?
Hi Marty, if you start reading at Post 228 here, there was a discussion of this. I have not checked out a 2016 model to see if they have the right hardware which could be retrofit into earlier models, nor had time to fashion something permanent. Our 2014 FC20 model does have a screen, however, so I am not sure what you will do about this aspect.

By the way, does everyone know that you can physically remove the galley window glass from the outside, by lifting it up and rotating the top edge (which is also the hinge) out of the window jamb/trim?

On clear days this is a great solution!

And even if it starts to rain a bit, the galley counter and sinks are just inside the window, so the rain damage is pretty minimal. Probably a bad idea to leave the trailer with the glass missing, though . . .

Now, for that optional rear awning install . . .

Peter
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Old 06-27-2016, 11:27 AM   #1056
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Bob, I grabbed your quote from that other thread, as a better drawer solution would suit all the FC20's IMO. I think our pull-out pantry wire drawer, behind the door next to the fridge, disgorged one container during the trip home yesterday, and then went back in and closed the door. Weird, because I found a sole item on the floor later. Maybe we didn't latch the door well?

How about two custom bungee cords (one high and one low) across the entire bank of cabinets from the fridge to the sink corner? Four discreet little pad eyes (Up/down, L/R) with two bungee cords spanning everything, to keep all (incl. oven) from starting to open and work up a head of steam as they reach the end of their OEM throw? I will look for discreet locations for the eye pads.

We intend to boondock on some pretty rough roads eventually, and would like to guaranty that the drawers and doors stay put!

TBD.

PS -- One of the cords could actually span the fridge door, adding a level of insurance there as well. The eye pad for these could be tucked in near the little metal hooks to the right as you exit the trailer. Edit -- might as well have both cords anchor there on that small return wall, as the eye pads would be most out-of-sight!
Peter, what a bummer. I got sidetracked with the lock-set angle but will continue. Personally I think that is my direction for the P & P drawer.

AS for the PU pantry drawer, it sort of fell of my list. It only opened once...the same time with the first P&P caught the curb fiasco and has been fine since. However, every time I open it, it comes to mind. Since the door and glides are independent, my original thought was to possibly drill the glides to insert a pin so it can't slide. Kinda rube, but at least out of sight and surely KISS. Not sure if a drill will fit in the narrow cabinet but there must be some easy way to lock the glides.

I'll take another look next time I'm at Blue.

bob
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Old 06-27-2016, 11:46 AM   #1057
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OTRA15 View Post
Hi Marty, if you start reading at Post 228 here, there was a discussion of this. I have not checked out a 2016 model to see if they have the right hardware which could be retrofit into earlier models, nor had time to fashion something permanent. Our 2014 FC20 model does have a screen, however, so I am not sure what you will do about this aspect.

By the way, does everyone know that you can physically remove the galley window glass from the outside, by lifting it up and rotating the top edge (which is also the hinge) out of the window jamb/trim?

On clear days this is a great solution!

And even if it starts to rain a bit, the galley counter and sinks are just inside the window, so the rain damage is pretty minimal. Probably a bad idea to leave the trailer with the glass missing, though . . .

Now, for that optional rear awning install . . .

Peter
Marty I think I posted this image before but finally gave up on my searches. We generally have bikes so we only prop open the window. I simply cut a slit in a 6" section of hose insulation, open the kit window and slip it on the window bracket. This in conjunction with the FV above the kit helps keep the air flow moving. It otherwise lives in the space between the screen and the window.

Peter great reminder re the rear window. I wasn't aware and realized that when I was treating the window seals...all of a sudden the window was in my hands.

Bob
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Old 06-27-2016, 04:24 PM   #1058
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Thinking of the pantry sinks, have any of you replaced your hand-held hose faucet? Mine leaks at the faucet. The problem may just be a washer, but have never taken one of them apart, so am a bit hesitant.
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Old 06-27-2016, 04:38 PM   #1059
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I noticed they put the never-lube bearings on the 2017 20footer. I don't guess they put 16 inch wheels on it?
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Old 06-27-2016, 07:56 PM   #1060
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Originally Posted by MaineStreamer View Post
Thinking of the pantry sinks, have any of you replaced your hand-held hose faucet? Mine leaks at the faucet. The problem may just be a washer, but have never taken one of them apart, so am a bit hesitant.

Marty here are is a video. This is a very easy and inexpensive fix.

Note the small clip...springing away...

https://www.bing.com/videos/search?q...3F0A&FORM=VIRE


Bob
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Old 06-28-2016, 01:23 AM   #1061
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This may be the rear kitchen escape window screen that would work.
http://airstreamsupply.com/New-Airst...29-mill-finish I would prefer that it be about $25 instead of the actual price, but it is worth considering.
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Old 06-28-2016, 01:50 PM   #1062
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This may be the rear kitchen escape window screen that would work.
http://airstreamsupply.com/New-Airst...29-mill-finish I would prefer that it be about $25 instead of the actual price, but it is worth considering.

Marty, looking at my window pics, you should be able to remove the screen and take it to a screen shop or buy the roller tool and a couple ft of screen material and re-screen your self. This isn't something I focused on in the trailer but my picture appears to have the conventional seal to press into the groove.

I'm not sure why a complete frame is needed.

Bob
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Old 06-28-2016, 11:44 PM   #1063
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There is no screen at all on mine, so a frame is needed even if I install the screen material. The screen can't be fixed in place or that would prevent opening the window without tearing out the screen.
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Old 06-29-2016, 10:59 PM   #1064
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There is no screen at all on mine, so a frame is needed even if I install the screen material. The screen can't be fixed in place or that would prevent opening the window without tearing out the screen.

Marty, 10-4 now.

Your screen prospective frame looks like mine except I don't have the side slots for the push open handles. My latches (at least the bolts ) fit thru the frame, so to open I open I release the latch & turn to release the lock. The frame remains screwed to the wall. To remove the frame I suspect I may need to remove the latches probably from the other side of the screen, even considering the square openings.

I'm not sure how your windows lock/release so don't know how the screen addition would affect the latching.

Mine is not an emergency window. That is the rear dinette window.

Bob
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