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subfan1 · 10-04-2016, 01:25 PM

Hi Bob and all. Yes, I had a 160watt panel installed by my selling dealer about 2 years ago and I really like it. The panel was installed east/west in front of the roof air conditioner. We have never not had enough power. In my month long volunteer trip to Yosemite in Aug with limited sun, due to the trees at the campground, the batteries were down to 81% overall I'm pleased with the performance.
I'd like to add I'm not a fan of the portable panels because I would have to store them for travel and I would be worried about someone or something running into them especially while I'm not there. Just my 2 cents.

centennialman · 10-05-2016, 05:40 AM

Thanks for the comments on the winterization. I did follow the instructions from prior posts last year and raised and lowered the nose while the compressor was running. I opened the low point drains in the back hatch and under the water heater. I hand pumped anti freeze from the outside through the city water line and black water rinse line as well. Then, I hooked up a hose to the pump and pulled anti freeze into the lines that way. When I saw pink fluid coming out of the outside low point drains, I shut them off and then opened each faucet individually inside and let them flush full with anti freeze. Also poured down into the drains and capped the shower drain. Closed all the other drains with their respective plugs. I removed the shower heads inside and out and have stored them for the winter. One thing I missed was the blowing out of the line to the water tank......I think I missed how/where that is done. I will still be under warranty if something goes awry there. I wonder if it's too late to blow it out since I have already pumped anti freeze through the system?

OTRA15 · 10-05-2016, 05:50 AM

If you did not put antifreeeze in the fresh water tank, the water supply line from the tank to the pump should not have AF in it, and should be basically empty.

You will have to access the pump again, and detach the water supply line as it meets the filter housing at the pump. Then just blow hard into the line, as insurance that no water has been trapped at a low point. This is a short run so one or two big breath-fulls should do it. The tank's drain should be open.

This little step may seem like overkill to some, but as mentioned earlier it is an insurance policy against the factory having installed the supply line from the tank with some "droopy" low points somewhere.

Chances of a freeze-up and pipe bursting are very very low, but not zero IMO, so this minor labor project is worth it. Next year when you disassemble the filter to drain it, it will be second nature to blow into the supply line twice, before re-assembly. Ten seconds?

Peter

centennialman · 10-05-2016, 06:23 AM

Thanks Peter....I may start up the compressor and give a shot of air into that line. It is so tight getting to it that I can barely get my fingers in there. I don't see how I could blow it out with my mouth. I appreciate your follow up with me on this part of the winterization!!

OTRA15 · 10-05-2016, 06:27 AM

Yeah I think your layout is different than Bob's and our 2014 20'.

CruizinDux · 10-05-2016, 11:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by centennialman

Thanks Peter....I may start up the compressor and give a shot of air into that line. It is so tight getting to it that I can barely get my fingers in there. I don't see how I could blow it out with my mouth. I appreciate your follow up with me on this part of the winterization!!

Steve, I agree if you pumped AF thru you should be good to go and shouldn't need to blow it out manually.

Our layout is fairly open under the drawer but still hard to get this twisted body down low enough to manually blow out the line at the pump connection. If I get organized this year I may mock up a short piece to attach so I don't have to get my head down so low.

Bob

OTRA15 · 10-05-2016, 01:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CruizinDux

. . .
so I don't have to get my head down so low.

Bob

Just make sure you can get back up!

What was that Robert Duvall movie with Sissy Spacek, "Get Low?" Not yet please . . . for all of us . . .

Hope the PT is going well, and apologies for the possibly bad jokes above.

Peter

CruizinDux · 10-05-2016, 03:05 PM

ouch...PT is going well and progress steady. Down to 1 crutch or around the house, a cane.

Chomping at the bit for some trailer time.

bob

cedonly · 10-05-2016, 03:16 PM

I checked our Marathon tires.. the manufacturing date is 2412. the 24th week of 2012. 4 years old already. We will definitely be upgrading to 16" over the winter.

centennialman · 10-05-2016, 03:46 PM

I agree....it does look like you have a bit of a different placement of the pump than I do. Mine is under the stove, behind a panel that has the furnace ducts on the face of it. There is literally about an inch and a half space between the side of the furnace and the hose connection to the pump. I can get one hand and a couple of fingers in to loosen the hose. I didn't blow it out but will see if I can get a hose from the compressor in there and give it a shot.

CruizinDux · 10-05-2016, 03:57 PM

Steve you may not need it if it's full of AF. Peter & I don't opt for the AF so need to get all the water out. However with '14 vintages also don't have to deal with the duct work. Our is also under the stove...technically under the pop & pan drawer that is under the stove.

Bob

CruizinDux · 10-05-2016, 04:07 PM

I'm starting to get things ling up for the 15>16 jump and realized most 20's have opted for the newer T03 as opposed to the (OEM) T02

T02 66655T http://sendelwheel.com/wheels/t02.html
T03 66655T http://sendelwheel.com/wheels/t03sm.html

I'm thinking I want to stay with the OEM look of the T02's. Plus quick look at pricing, seems the T02 are a bit cheaper. Haven't checked availability.

Am I missing something?

Bob

centennialman · 10-05-2016, 04:31 PM

Bob - the fresh water tank is empty. Do you think the water from the hose would have drained back into the tank or should I be safe and give it a blast from the compressor? I unhooked the supply hose from the pump and then pumped the anti freeze in. The other side of the hose (goes to the tank) didn't get any anti freeze. The drain had been open for about a month or so and I had gone out on a couple of trips. I am thinking that the jostling of the road etc....would have moved any water out of that part of the line and back into the tank.....am I over thinking this?

CruizinDux · 10-05-2016, 06:52 PM

Steve, my apologies. I misread. I think you're OK especially considering 1) it's generally downhill to the the tank 2) even more so with the nose up 3) there isn't any back-flow device or connection that would hinder drainage 4) like you said open and jostling for a while. Any moisture should over time find it's way to the tank. Also I would not think the line and intake in the tank is not intended to hold any pressure other than the prime from the pump and once that is disconnected it should also release any air lock. Do you have a filter just S lf the pump. taking the top off that wold also serve to open the flow.

BTW did run run the pump a few seconds (a few times) that should empty the minimal contents of the pump and help release any airlock on the line to the tank.

Bob

subfan1 · 10-05-2016, 10:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CruizinDux

I'm starting to get things ling up for the 15>16 jump and realized most 20's have opted for the newer T03 as opposed to the (OEM) T02

T02 66655T http://sendelwheel.com/wheels/t02.html
T03 66655T http://sendelwheel.com/wheels/t03sm.html

I'm thinking I want to stay with the OEM look of the T02's. Plus quick look at pricing, seems the T02 are a bit cheaper. Haven't checked availability.

Am I missing something?

Bob

Bob, I think the load rating might be lower on the T02 wheel compared to the T03. Or vise versa?

OTRA15 · 10-06-2016, 01:10 AM

Aren't the weight ratings both well over our needs for 2500 lbs. per wheel? Adding a 20% safety margin puts the figure at 3000, which both Sendel wheels are still over I believe.

centennialman · 10-06-2016, 06:00 AM

Thank you Bob....I did take the screen filter off and check it as well. It was clean and I agree that it should have helped release any pressure that may have been in the pump etc...

I appreciate all of your help! It's snowing in the mountains this morning and winter is on the way!

CruizinDux · 10-06-2016, 09:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by OTRA15

Aren't the weight ratings both well over our needs for 2500 lbs. per wheel? Adding a 20% safety margin puts the figure at 3000, which both Sendel wheels are still over I believe.

Great point Peter...and well over the current/OEM T02 15's @ 2830 gross.

I suspect it may come down to supply when I jump in I like the 3's especially the black, but I'm leaning towards the OEM look.

For those on the east coast, be safe.

Bob

OTRA15 · 10-06-2016, 09:46 AM

The black accent looks cool up close, but it "weakens" the look from a distance in my opinion -- makes the silver casting look thinner on the edges of the "spokes," and thus flimsy-looking, again in my opinion.

YMMV

PS -- waldosgone went through this before his Alaska trip, see Post 829 here, and got the black accent because the silver had a long lead time.

Photos from Ken at Post #71 here:

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f238...ml#post1783097