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Old 05-19-2016, 10:02 AM   #911
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Yes I saw your post and agree with you. A clean 20 amp dedicated circuit using the proper extension cord should be fine for our small A/C units. You will know as soon as you start it up. Both your trailer and house/shop 20 amp circuit breakers must not trip, and the line voltage should stay good. The house here has some 20 amp circuits, but I have to run a 50' #12 extension to the trailer, which is marginal IMO. A shorter #10 might do it? Gonna wait until I find a 30 amp circuit or bring the Honda 3000 from the shop.
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Old 05-19-2016, 03:03 PM   #912
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Update teagues -- the #12 extension cord did the job, although the voltage on my cheap voltage meter dropped to 115 +/- when both the compressor and blower fan were running. Ran the A/C for about 5 minutes and turned it off, as a #10 ext. cord is probably needed to keep the voltage constant. Air temp around 70. Will wait for better electrical service before running A/C long enough to let condensate build up.

PS shop gen is Honda 3500 which is due for an exercise anyway, so up she comes next week for an A/C test run.
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Old 05-19-2016, 03:27 PM   #913
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I wouldn't panic about the voltage dropping to 115 if it held steady there, but then I wouldn't argue against waiting until you are more comfortable with the power supply either. For me, that would absolutely require me to make a trip to Harbor Freight, just to be safe you know.

Good luck getting to the bottom of this. I'm guessing you'd rather figure it out up there when it's 70, than down here when it's 90 and dripping on the dinette seat cushion.
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Old 05-19-2016, 03:38 PM   #914
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OK -- not to talk you out of a trip to the hardware store -- but I just ran out to the trailer to look up into the AC. Pull one of the air filters, and I'm betting that you could rig up a squeeze bottle to just pump water up into the condensate pan, eliminating the need to use the compressor at all. I was initially thinking about one of those bottles with the right-angle straw like the boxers, but you could probably come up with something better.
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Old 05-19-2016, 04:12 PM   #915
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I used to have a little honda 1000 generator and always had trouble charging with the Progressive converter. It would constantly overload when first plugging it in as the charger was trying to do a bulk charge. Very frustrating.

I sold it and got a yamaha 2000 and things are MUCH better.

-J


Quote:
Originally Posted by OTRA15 View Post
subfan1, I ordered a Yamaha 1000 generator with the propane conversion, and would appreciate a clarification of how you used your Schumacher charger.

Did you feel that the 1000 was too small to connect directly to the trailer to power the battery charger? The amperages are close, but it seemed to me this would work, without using the intermediate Schumacher charger.

Did you hook up all three at the same time? [gen -- Schmacher charger -- trailer batteries]

Thanks,

Peter

PS -- Sorry if I missed an earlier reply on this!
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Old 05-19-2016, 04:14 PM   #916
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Events conspired against me and I was not able to work on this. However My plan is to work on it this coming week.

Will update here on what I end up doing.


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Wondering how the tank removal is going?

Thanks,

Peter
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Old 05-19-2016, 04:30 PM   #917
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Thanks jpons on the 1000 vs. Progressive converter, which we touched base on a week or two ago. For now -- with the OEM charger -- the 1000 should be OK IMO. We are doing our best to Keep It Simple Stu and start traveling.

If and when we do an upgrade to include solar, converter/charger, 16' wheels/ires, etc., then a new genny may be needed. The 1000 is so attractively light and portable, however, that it seems like a good tool to have around in general.

Yeah, that same old conspiracy got me recently too . . .



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Old 05-19-2016, 04:37 PM   #918
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Dometic A/C Brain Surgery

Quote:
Originally Posted by teagues View Post
OK -- not to talk you out of a trip to the hardware store -- but I just ran out to the trailer to look up into the AC. Pull one of the air filters, and I'm betting that you could rig up a squeeze bottle to just pump water up into the condensate pan, eliminating the need to use the compressor at all. I was initially thinking about one of those bottles with the right-angle straw like the boxers, but you could probably come up with something better.
Thanks.

I'll do you one better -- A/C brain surgery!

Attached is a photo of the drain tubing above the lower case which I removed. There is no clamp on the single drain tube, like there is on the two tubes feeding it. The user "CanonFan" on that other thread [see quote below] said that the AS mechanics reported a missing clamp also. In theory the drain tube should not really need a clamp if it is all gravity-drained, but suppose there is a back-up or kink down the line? Plus when the interior temp up at the A/C is something like 100 F, that vinyl tubing is going to be pretty weak and limp IMO.

My PA dealer went out of business but their service dept. mechanics -- great guys with lots of AS experience -- are now working for a trailer company in the same location. I will regroup on this and contact them. CanonFan says below that he saw the missing clamp, when he decided not to buy the FC20 recently. Indeed his drain hose was not even connected with a pressure/friction fit!

May I ditch and moan a bit about the soft steel Phillips screws holding the lower case on? The factory assembly person almost stripped the head of one of them, such that I could not remove it. Finally got the "sharpest" Phillips screwdriver I have and manged to remove it. Argghhh! Gonna get harder screws in the morning. Why why why JC?

Think I will pass on squeezing small amounts of water in the drip pans. Want to run the thing hard under real life conditions and see what happens.


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Here is CanonFan's post about the missing clamp:

Quote:
Originally Posted by CanonFan View Post
Walk away from it we did. The tech showed us what happened. It seems there are two condensation drip pans (one on either side of the A/C). There is a drain tube leading from each drain pan that connects to a single drain tube via a "T" or "Y" connector. Well, this connector is situated directly above one of the Return air vents. What happened was that the drain hoses from each drain pan were fastened to the connector via a clamps. Unfortunately, the tube that then carries the water to the wheel well was NOT clamped (or not even connected?). I was amazed by how much water poured out of the vent. The tech explained that the water from the drain pan doesn't just constantly drip down the hose; he said the pan fills partially ans then forced water down the tube. Not sure I understand that or how it works, but that's what he said.
. . .
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Old 05-19-2016, 07:46 PM   #919
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Quote:
Originally Posted by teagues View Post
I wouldn't panic about the voltage dropping to 115 if it held steady there, but then I wouldn't argue against waiting until you are more comfortable with the power supply either. For me, that would absolutely require me to make a trip to Harbor Freight, just to be safe you know.



Good luck getting to the bottom of this. I'm guessing you'd rather figure it out up there when it's 70, than down here when it's 90 and dripping on the dinette seat cushion.
Hi, in terms of the 115 volts shore power; while it might be fine running the AC I would be more concerned what the voltage sag would be as soon as the compressor kicks in. In other words as it cycles off and on. That is when you'll need the extra current to assure the compressor does not get damaged. Just my opinion though.
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Old 05-20-2016, 01:11 AM   #920
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The 115 volts was with both the compressor and fan running. I watched the meter drop as they kicked in.
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Old 05-20-2016, 11:57 AM   #921
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tongue jack, wheel wells FW petcock, cleat

OK, catching up: tongue jack, wheel wells FW petcock, cleat

Tongue Jack: The dealer determined that the jack gears jammed due ti it bottoming out. Note on the last trip I lost the post plate passing by Camp Roberts…wow, what was that cathunkthunkthunk? Seems on our ’14 the plate is compressed on & not secured by a lynch pin. I was told at OEM walk thru when I asked how far can/should I run the jack up…is there a stop built into the post/gears?....until it stops was the answer. I did opt for a new plate with a pin and had them drill the post. However the plate collar was a little lower that the OEM, so when I ran the jack up as Beachside as usual, it was a bit higher and it jammed the gears and blew the fuse.

They wanted to charge, I felt I followed their instruction and they agreed. Warranty. I’m either going to tap a screw just above the recently added black line or look for a PVC fitting with a 2” ID and slip a ˝” slice onto the post as a stop. I’ll also be more diligent on finding a few spare 30 slow blow fuses for my “spares” bag. Good to know I may not need to carry a spare switch as some have noted in the threads, but just in case I will be covering the head with a plastic bag…because it never rains in Oregon.

PS, the material in the jack picture is some 50 mil TPO membrane that I got from a roofing contractor friend. I cut some from scraps added grommets at the two top corners and I use then for wheel covers. They’ll last forever and also double as a mat when I need to slide under the AS.

Wheel Wells: as noted earlier I had two “subfloor exposure” spots but were very small. I gave the dealer the options to overlay with a small SM patch, caulk, or both. They opted to caulk. They removed the wheels and caulked the seams/joints as well as the two area. Pretty good job and I think I’m done. I’ll monitor over time for caulk integrity and as required add the under seal used by Peter and Jose.

FW Petcock. The dealer was going to blow the back to clear, but after thinking about it, I don’t think it is sediment, but probably a bug and I don’t want to push that up into the tank. I’m going to try a vac and maybe a pipe cleaner for now. After all, the 0 degree position is wide open, it’s just the 180 that is clogged. Historically after winterization if have left the FW and LP valves wide open. I think I’m going to tighten that tolerance up a bit to allow a drip or two.

Has anyone removed/swapped out their petcock. The plastic OEM must have a huge target on it and in fact, I’m surprised the aforementioned jack plate now residing somewhere along Highway 101 must have just missed it. I don’t mind reaching in to drain/flush, but am thinking of brass? Any experience and feedback is appreciated


Cleat: Peter’s correct, the 1X on the inside of the dinette storage will likely conflict with nuts for any thru bolt installation. Since it appears it sole purpose is to support the cushion plywood (it doesn’t appear that the cleat screws thru the cleat, the laminate and also the 1X), I think I’ll swap it out for a 1X2(or3) on both sides and thru bolt the existing cleat. FYI, it’s 13.5” from FF to top of cleat in case you want to cut one of those spare 4x4 we all seem to carry and let the current cleat system ride.


I'm heading gout to storage maybe today to deal with the jack stop but also to look for the AC drain. I looked everywhere but up. I'll also pull the AC cover in the interior.
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Old 05-20-2016, 12:09 PM   #922
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Thanks Bob for the updates. On the road now, so briefly: Hope your A/C lower cover screws (8) have clean Phillips heads. They are buried per the Dometic manual. Also need to release the two grey clips hidden at the aft end where the discharge flapper can be adjusted. Hard to put into words but the Installation steps show them in theory, but no word on how to release them. If you get up on a step stool with a flashlight they are pretty obvious.

Good luck and thanks on the heads up on the jack limits. Luckily I heard years ago not to rely on the limits, to release the switch before you hit them.

Glad things are progressing you are getting short for the trip North!

Peter
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Old 05-20-2016, 12:27 PM   #923
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store ~ use switch

Just a FYI to y'all


http://www.airforums.com/forums/f449...ml#post1794159

Bob
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Old 05-20-2016, 12:33 PM   #924
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OTRA15 View Post
Thanks Bob for the updates. On the road now, so briefly: Hope your A/C lower cover screws (8) have clean Phillips heads. They are buried per the Dometic manual. Also need to release the two grey clips hidden at the aft end where the discharge flapper can be adjusted. Hard to put into words but the Installation steps show them in theory, but no word on how to release them. If you get up on a step stool with a flashlight they are pretty obvious.

Good luck and thanks on the heads up on the jack limits. Luckily I heard years ago not to rely on the limits, to release the switch before you hit them.

Glad things are progressing you are getting short for the trip North!

Peter
"On the road now, so briefly:..." WaaHoo! Have a great time & safe journey!


Thanks for the tip on the Dometic. I'll grab the install manual. I planned to take a stone to sharpen my Phillips as needed

Yes Orcas Island is in our sights (early June) ...can't wait.

Bob
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