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Old 05-18-2016, 11:51 AM   #897
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Originally Posted by OTRA15 View Post
subfan1, I ordered a Yamaha 1000 generator with the propane conversion, and would appreciate a clarification of how you used your Schumacher charger.

Did you feel that the 1000 was too small to connect directly to the trailer to power the battery charger? The amperages are close, but it seemed to me this would work, without using the intermediate Schumacher charger.

Did you hook up all three at the same time? [gen -- Schmacher charger -- trailer batteries]

Thanks,

Peter

PS -- Sorry if I missed an earlier reply on this!
I.m back now, we spent a long weekend at the beach. Had a great time and I just saw this.
Yes I plugged the charger to the generator and using the output of the charger hooked the aligator clips accross the battery terminals. This way I can increase the charge rate therefore reducing generator use time and annoying my fellow campers.
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Old 05-18-2016, 02:07 PM   #898
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Originally Posted by subfan1 View Post
I.m back now, we spent a long weekend at the beach. Had a great time and I just saw this.
Yes I plugged the charger to the generator and using the output of the charger hooked the aligator clips accross the battery terminals. This way I can increase the charge rate therefore reducing generator use time and annoying my fellow campers.
Thanks, did you ever skip using the Schumacher charger, and just charge the batteries directly with the 1k generator connected to the trailer's OEM street electric input port? Or did the generator's circuit breaker trip from the load of the trailer's charger?

Glad to hear you had a good weekend trip!

Peter
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Old 05-18-2016, 04:19 PM   #899
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Yes I over time used the OEM converter in the trailer to charge the batteries but I wanted to charge them at a high rate then taper off to minimize generator usage/noise. I never tripped breakers on the generator or converter in the trailer. The batteries were wet cell BTW. I recently replaced my original interstates with Lifeline group 24s and I have replaced my converter to a "smart charger" and along with the 160 watt solar panel, I have been very satisfied with this setup. We get a lot of sun on the western part of the US and that helps keep the batteries topped off. Eastern part of US, may not work as well? Don't know.
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Old 05-18-2016, 04:48 PM   #900
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Thanks Jose for the clarifications. We hope to do all the same upgrades, but right now we want to get on the road again! All our OEM equipment including batteries is working fine, thus under the KISS theory -- if it ain't broke don't fix it.

Thanks again for leading the way on the water leak possibilities in the wheel wells. I doubt if I ever would have discovered that exposed plywood subfloor which was a distinctly weak link in the chain. The spray-on bed liner was not a pretty fix but it is probably watertight.

Turning on the fridge and water heater today.

OTRA2016!

Thanks again,

Peter
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Old 05-18-2016, 04:51 PM   #901
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. . .
I plan on working on the toilet removal early next week. First order of business is getting that black water tank as clean as possible before I go messing around with it.
. .
-J
Wondering how the tank removal is going?

Thanks,

Peter
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Old 05-18-2016, 05:03 PM   #902
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You're welcome Peter, have a great trip. How long will you be on the road? Have fun
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Old 05-18-2016, 11:26 PM   #903
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Yes I replaced ours with a stainless steel. I've replaced almost all exterior plastics with SS

Subfan1, thanks. I looked at he AS website...pretty spendy, but nice SS quality. I couldn't tell about he locking tabs, but would have to presume SS too.

This is the post I was thinking #512from TC of http://www.airforums.com/forums/f516...127845-37.html (

Good to know that at one vendor or another that we can upgrade from the nice AS plastic.

Bob

...as for the long weekend at the beach....fond memories of Crystal Cove. Next time it will be San Clemente SB...maybe San Elijio ?) for some variety.


W just got back from Beachside SP a couple of weeks ago from Beachside SP for 4 days. North or south, you gotta love the calming sound of the waves lapping the shore.
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Old 05-18-2016, 11:33 PM   #904
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Originally Posted by OTRA15 View Post
Thanks Jose for the clarifications. We hope to do all the same upgrades, but right now we want to get on the road again! All our OEM equipment including batteries is working fine, thus under the KISS theory -- if it ain't broke don't fix it.

Thanks again for leading the way on the water leak possibilities in the wheel wells. I doubt if I ever would have discovered that exposed plywood subfloor which was a distinctly weak link in the chain. The spray-on bed liner was not a pretty fix but it is probably watertight.

Turning on the fridge and water heater today.

OTRA2016!

Thanks again,

Peter

subfan1, Ditto. Discovery much appreciated.

After a closer inspection turns out I had two gaps, one about .375" and the other .5"+. I dropped it off at the dealer for the tongue jack issue ...so I showed them the gaps. This small a scrap of SM overlay and/or caulk should be fine.


Interesting on the jack, they also could not raise/lower with the hand crank. They were to call JC on Monday. No word yet.

Bob
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Old 05-19-2016, 12:06 AM   #905
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[QUOTE=OTRA15;1792704]I seem to have the same cleats as you Bob. No surprise I guess. After removing the wood bungs over the screw heads, I will use longer screws or through-bolts. The wood cleat behind the dinette base top edge, in the storage area, is kind of overkill IMO (hard to remember but I think the interior 1X is to support the plywood supporting the cushion. May have to sister up another 1X since it's only backing and not support. WE don't use the dinette bed...yet....future for TV, but I would never sit on the edge. Maybe keep 1 or two of those 4X4's handy for jack etc....coincidentally cut to the FF/MICA bottom length,) and may be in the way of getting nuts/washers on the new bolts. Both cleats could be wider and as you noted Bob the cleats under the table could be longer (and not stick out so far IMO). [ Edit -- Plus add 1-2 through-bolts per Steve's excellent suggestion. ]

To be noted also -- the dropped table is probably not supposed to be sat on without the "mattress" in place, which distributes the load. An adult seated on the 'mica table top right over the cleats could easily shear off or tear out short screws. Sorry to devolve into another QC comment but this little corner of the AS looks pretty hoakey IMO. Like an afterthought.

The attached photo is the first without using the laptop, sorry I can't get it to rotate 90. Try standing on your head like you suggested for the p &p drawer tab locking : )))

Attachment 262688





Interesting you should mention #516. Jalama is the only stop where we filled/used FW as opposed to CW. We carried a nominal amount for weight distribution filled at he dealer. When we hooked up at Moro Bay (next stop), the inline filter was plugged and all taps at a dribble. Checked filter pressure on a gauge at home hooked up to a hose. Pressure OK...flow double.

Jalama is a great location but I would not be surprised if their water, while clean and safe, may contain some sediments that managed to get past the filter...assuming that was working correctly. I think I'm going to check the kit filter too. Bought a filter 2 pack and all was fine at BS. I think FW has only been filled by the dealer, at Jalama and our home.

When summerizing and flushing I noticed the FW petcock, while of at 90 closed as normal, and on 0 (wide open) ...but at 180 off with a slow drip. this should be open. The dealer is looking in to this as well. Can't believe the any significant sediment got past the filter. They're going to attach air to the PC and flush and we'll go from there.

For the record, Jalama was great and we'll be back. Just with a full tank of FW and some bottled water.
bob
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Old 05-19-2016, 03:04 AM   #906
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Thanks for the posts Bob. On the campground water, we have a regular domestic canister filter rigged up to go in-line at the CG hose bib, to catch most local sediment, like this one:

https://jet.com/product/detail/5dc39...Q&gclsrc=aw.ds

which takes the standard spun-polyester (?) filters you can get everywhere. It also has an integral On/Off to facilitate filter replacement, not that this is really needed for our CG intermittent use. This filter gets used both for CG water tank fills, as well as city water hook-ups direct to the trailer. [Edit -- Bob do you have a filter like this inside your trailer, guessing from your last post, or is it also in-line in the hose?]

As a general strategy, since we don't drink or cook with the tank's water, I have always tried to use the tank water actively on each and every trip, to keep it fresh and available as back-up, even if we are hooked up to city water. That plumbing leak we had back in SD in the 90's, while hooked up to pressurized city water, taught me a lesson about the perils of leaving the hose bib on overnight, or while away from the trailer. A little pump noise during the night is OK for toilet use IMO. Plus you always have a good supply of water in the tank, ready to go as insurance.

I never thought about sediment clogging the drain for the fresh water tank, but that makes perfect sense. Hope you don't have to drop the tank, or is the drain removable as a replaceable unit? Thinking the trailer's bottom pan under the tank might also have to come off? Won't speculate further -- there are threads on this here -- good luck!

Peter

PS -- Weird about the tongue jack manual ops being NG for the dealer too. Also, headstand photo viewing noted, but actually lying down might have done the trick?

PS2 -- Jose, no trip imminent, but the road is calling . . . recent health issues have anchored us home . . . hopefully resolving.
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Old 05-19-2016, 06:08 AM   #907
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teagues, I just happened to notice your post on another thread, and am wondering if you have discovered any other reason for your A/C leak? Could the drain line be crimped somewhere in a wall maybe, as was suggested in yet another thread? [See Posts #862-864 here] [Edit -- see second quote below also -- to save you finding the earlier posts here]

Thanks,

Peter


Quote:
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Hopefully this is not a waste of your time, but last month we experienced a similar sounding problem in our 20'. When the AC ran continuously for long periods (due to high temps and/or humidity), water would begin to drip in through the filter area. I investigated and found that water had collected in the U channel, as you described, and also in the inside drain pan under the evaporator.

Checking the outside drain outlet, I could see some dripping there, but less than I would have seen in the past. So I concluded that the drain pan was not draining well enough.

Some condensation on the U channel seems plausible, but in my case I think that the drain pan was overflowing into the u channel and then into the coach from there.

Since we were on the road, I was limited in what I could do to fix any drain blockages. Over a couple of days tried a couple of things and saw some improvement, but still did not 100% fix the problem. But along the way I noticed 2 interesting things:

1. While the AC and its fan were running, the outside drain would drip just a little. Right after the AC fan cut off, a gush of water would drain out. My theory is that the fan creates just enough of a vacuum in the area of the drain that it inhibits draining (along with any remaining crud or pinched section in the drain line).

2. When the trailer is just slightly nose-up, level-wise, the AC was much less likely to drip in the cabin. From the little that I could see of it, it looked like the forward edge of the drain pan is lower than the aft edge.

By making sure that we parked slightly nose-up, and setting the thermostat so that the AC would occasionally shut down, we avoided any additional problems for the rest of the trip. And that would have been over two weeks with some very hot and humid days in there.
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My wife and I are sooo disappointed. We've been looking at travel trailers for quite some time now. Kept coming back to Airstream as the brand we need, primarily due to the lowest VOCs of any of them on the market. Then, we kept trying to decide which size. Changed our minds several times. Finally decided the Flying Cloud 20 was just the right size for the two of us. So, we went in to our dealer this morning for the walk-through. We had a great gentleman providing the orientation and provided some very helpful tips. Things were looking and feeling great. About 1 1/2 hours into the orientation we experienced a flood of water pouring out of one of the A/C air in-take registers. There must have been about 1/2 gallon of water pour out before the technician turned off the A/C. Water also oozed out of one of the panel seams - so we are certain water got into the sidewall and soaked the insulation. As a result, we decided to NOT take delivery and are now trying to decide what we should do. Right now we are terribly disappointed and disillusioned.
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Old 05-19-2016, 08:27 AM   #908
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teagues, I just happened to notice your post on another thread, and am wondering if you have discovered any other reason for your A/C leak? Could the drain line be crimped somewhere in a wall maybe, as was suggested in yet another thread? [See Posts #862-864 here] [Edit -- see second quote below also -- to save you finding the earlier posts here]

Thanks,

Peter
I never found any other reason for the backup, really. Setting the thermostat so that the A/C would occasionally cycle off, plus parking slightly nose-up, seems to have done the trick. We have not had a problem since, either later on that trip 2 years ago, or on more recent trips. Our log shows 26 nights in the trailer after dealing with the leak, and all but 7 of those would have required significant use of the air conditioner.

I did try a couple of things when we were on the road that trip:
1. Rigged up a vacuum to the drain tube out at the street side wheel.
2. Pushed a narrower gauge vinyl tube up the drain line as far up as I could. I recall that I was able to get it pretty far up, but cannot remember if I made it to the condensation pan.
Neither fixed the problem, but I would not rule out that one or both helped.

Since that trip, I've occasionally added a condensate drain pan tablet, on the theory that keeping the line as clean as possible wouldn't hurt.

EDIT: Look at that, 100 posts! Only took me 9 years!
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Old 05-19-2016, 09:12 AM   #909
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Thanks, guess I will remove the bottom cover of the AC to see if our drain hose is clamped right. Don't have 30 amps available right now.
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Old 05-19-2016, 09:24 AM   #910
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Thanks, guess I will remove the bottom cover of the AC to see if our drain hose is clamped right. Don't have 30 amps available right now.
Good luck! Mine looked like it was more caulked than clamped.

For what it's worth: so far, no one has objected to my assertion that you can run the A/C on 20 amps.
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f37/...ml#post1793504

If I was being a bit indirect there, I personally would flip off the other breakers so that only the A/C is powered, flip the use/store switch to use so that the thermostat runs off the house battery, and monitor voltage inside the trailer to make sure that the power supplied to the trailer is good.
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